ATX MKIV #9644 Coyote Build Thread (Index Post #137)

[Blitzboy54]

A lot of great detail in here. Much appreciated update.

[dbo_texas]

And finally, here a pic w/ the engine cover installed:

Forgot to post this pic showing the direction/orientation of the MAF sensor. This is the sensor that gets removed from the stock intake/filter box that comes with the crate motor. I have it positioned with the rounded edge toward the bend in the intake elbow, so that the air gets forced into the sensor. If this is incorrect, somebody let me know! It's easy enough to flip - you just have to flip around the Treadstone MAF tube.

[dbo_texas]

I found a 3/8 SAE Quick Disconnect cap to put on the 3/8 port on the outside elbow of the intake. Looks a little cleaner vs. the rubber cap + clamp option. I thought the evap purge vent above the throttle body was also 3/8 but it's slightly larger....maybe 7/16 so I kept that one capped with a clamp. Surprisingly there don't appear to be many places that make these SAE blanking caps, but this is where I got it from if others are interested:
https://www.anhosefittings.com/racef...nking-cap.html

[dbo_texas]

Haven't had a chance to work on the car for about 2 months. I'm planning to take this week off for Thanksgiving and get some good hours in. Tonight I decided to mount the actuator cable for the heater bypass valve. This has been bothering me for a while because I wasn't sure how I was going to do it. Turned out to be pretty simple. I used the bypass valve provided with the kit from FFR and cut the end off which has the screw clamp. Then I just riveted this to the firewall to secure the cable jacket. Tested and seems to work fine.

One question - what's the best way to secure the cable end onto the post? It can slip up or down (and fall off) fairly easily at the moment. Seems like one good bump will knock it off. I thought about using some JB Weld to fix a small washer just before the bend - that would take care of it moving up. I suppose I could do the same on the bottom after installing the cable but that would make servicing it a pain.

[dbo_texas]

Over Thanksgiving break I was able to mount the blast gates for each footbox fresh air vent along with the pull cable. I also made some custom heat shields to create a barrier between the headers and the footboxes and also provide a little extra protection for the fresh air vent hoses. Overall this took way longer than I thought it would take. Not sure how much it will reduce the heat on either to footboxes OR the air vent hoses, but I thought it was worth a shot. I insulated the backside of the heat shields with CoolIT thermal/acoustic stick-on mats. Here are some pictures and videos.

VIDEO overview of driver side:


VIDEO overview of passenger side:
https://youtu.be/Wah3vQmSD20

DS pull cable location (I may need to move this if it interferes w/ the door hinge):


DS blast gate and pull cable routing:


DS heat shield:


Another view of DS heat shield. Mounted using rivet nuts and 10-24 screws. The rivet nuts create about a 3/8" air gap.


And here's the PS pull cable routing:


PS heat shield:

[dbo_texas]

I have a complete setup from Forte - Gen2 Coyote + T56 + Quick Time RM-8080 bellhousing. I'm working on all things electrical, hoping to finish it during the holiday break and realized I don't have the bolts for the starter motor. I've tried a bunch of different bolt sizes and thread pitches, and nothing seems to work. I've tried 3/8x16, 5/16x18, 5/16x24, M8x1.25, and M7x1. The 5/16/18 seems to start threading into the bellhousing but stops pretty quick. The M7x1 actually goes in a little further before it stops. So now I'm thinking maybe it is an M8x1 fine pitch bolt? Weird size if that's it.... Anybody know what is the correct bolt thread size, thread pitch, and length for the mini-starter motor that Forte includes with the Coyote setup? The starter seems to be the stock Ford OEM starter motor for Mustangs as far as I can tell.

I'll give Forte a call after the holidays but was hoping to work on it sooner.

[topherchrisb]

I just put my coyote in a couple days ago. I was able to get to one of the bolts out and take some pictures for you. You're mileage may very with my hardware know how but I tried to give the detail in the pictures you need. Seems to me like 35mm long, m8x1.25, with a 13mm flange head. I tried to upload the photos from my phone but they are SUPER huge. I'll add the photos to this post when I get back to the house and I can edit the sizes on my computer. It'll probably be a few hours as I'm just starting my morning in the shop. Trying to get some things done before the kids wake up.

I was looking at the coyote install instructions and on page 3 they have this part number for the starter bolts W500310.S438 which does say m8 35 long.

It says 1.25 on the die if you can't read it in the picture.

[dbo_texas]

I just put my coyote in a couple days ago. I was able to get to one of the bolts out and take some pictures for you. You're mileage may very with my hardware know how but I tried to give the detail in the pictures you need. Seems to me like 35mm long, m8x1.25, with a 13mm flange head. I tried to upload the photos from my phone but they are SUPER huge. I'll add the photos to this post when I get back to the house and I can edit the sizes on my computer. It'll probably be a few hours as I'm just starting my morning in the shop. Trying to get some things done before the kids wake up.

I was looking at the coyote install instructions and on page 3 they have this part number for the starter bolts W500310.S438 which does say m8 35 long.

It says 1.25 on the die if you can't read it in the picture.

Thanks for checking and confirming the size. I picked up some with these specs (M8x1.25x35) and they worked. I think the threads on my bellhousing were messed up a bit because they still didn’t quite thread in. So I re-tapped with an M8x1.25 tap and then the bolts went in just fine.

Since you just went through this, can you tell me the small post on the starter motor is grounded? After I connected my engine ground strap and the ground from the starter housing (to the engine mount), I was just checking my grounds and tapped the smaller post on the starter which I have the blue starter wire from the Coyote harness connected. I wasn't expecting that to be grounded but for some reason it is. Tomorrow I'll take the lead off and see if the starter wire is grounded or if it is the post itself (on the starter). But either way I was surprised by this.....I don't really know how that post is used so wasn't sure if this is correct or not. If anyone knows, please let me know --> does the Coyote ECU ground this wire until it is triggered?

Also, the instructions don't say anything about having to do anything special when mounting the starter motor. Is there any procedure to check/verify the starter motor gear is aligned properly with the teeth on the flywheel? Is this documented anywhere on the forum?