Inner Wheel Damage

[Norm B]

The passenger side looks OK (could be room for more caster) but, the driver’s side is exactly backwards. With power steering you are trying to get 7 degrees of caster and -0.5 degrees of camber (wheel tilted in at the top)

Norm

[CraigS]

Ah crap, I forgot that Doc is on Fox spindles. Thanks for straightening me out.

[Doc76]

So I discovered something tonight I really do not understand.
I was checking the range of motion regarding this damage.
When I turn the wheel left and right, the driver size UCA stays static however when I observe the range of motion on the passenger side (the side with the wheel damage) the UCA lifts up when turning to the right and gets stiff.
From center (straight) to full left turn, the UCA stays static however when I go from centre to full right, the UCA stays straight.
Any advice on what to look for would be appreciated

[Jeff Kleiner]

It’s moving because of caster. We’ve already determined that you have differing caster from side to side. Align both sides alike and they will move the same.

Jeff

[kgkeys]

I think your passenger side UCA is assembled incorrectly. The ball joint plate needs to be removed and flipped front to back.

Here's a picture of mine for reference:


Kyle

[Doc76]

I think your passenger side UCA is assembled incorrectly. The ball joint plate needs to be removed and flipped front to back.

Here's a picture of mine for reference:


Kyle

Thanks Kyle
Great eye!!
I adjusted the UCAs to closer side to side however this had no effect on the range of motion and binding.
I just went and looked and it is assemble wrong.
Passenger side is angled up and the drivers is angled down like yours pictured.
Thanks you so much!!!!!
This explains why it contacted the rim
I know what I am doing Saturday

[kgkeys]

I noticed Craig had mentioned it previously, but once you see it, you see it... Good luck!

[Doc76]

Anyone know the part number for the upper ball joint?
I started correcting the incorrectly assembled UCA today and wasn’t surprised to find the boot is damaged
IMG_1380.jpeg

Also, my understanding is this ball joint is threaded in with Loctite. What’s the best method to break it free?
IMG_1381.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Moog K772 or equivalent. Screw in joint used on literally millions of Chrysler products from the early 1960s on through the late 70s. If red Loctite was used it might require heat.

Jeff

[egchewy79]

as Jeff mentioned, heat to break the red loctite bond. I also found the correctly sized socket on an impact gun to be necessary. It's a 1-59/64" size socket.

[CraigS]

Another technique that can help is remove the UCA from the car. Turn it over and clamp the flat sides of the BJ in your vise. Pull on the frame end of the UCA to thread it off the BJ. Most people don't have a wrench or socket for the BJ but many have a vice.

[Doc76]

Another technique that can help is remove the UCA from the car. Turn it over and clamp the flat sides of the BJ in your vise. Pull on the frame end of the UCA to thread it off the BJ. Most people don't have a wrench or socket for the BJ but many have a vice.

Thanks Craig
This is actually how I got it apart. Lucky for me no locktite was used.