M22 Cobra Build - FUEL PLUMBING

[M22_COBRA]

I spent the weekend putting thermal barrier in the DS foot box. Didn't go too bad. All the other parts that will be installed later in the build are all ready to go.
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I thought it would be best per the recommendation of the forum to get the Coyote pedal installed..... This is where the fun begins. The cutting went fine, I got a little aggressive on the upper ear but not too bad. I may be conservative on the side that nests to the bar on the vehicle inner. Per what others have seen the lower hole lines up, but the upper ear hole is off 3/8", and hitting the shaft, and the inside surface is just touching the inner chassis bar with the circular proud rib. The body is also hitting the foot box pedal cross bar in the front. In the end it very clear the entire thing wants to go up about 1/4". The bracket cant go up without re drilling the fire wall, and the lower (lower is no big deal). The bracket also has no slots (wish they added this) and due to the shape you cant move the upper hole down on bracket more than 1/8" because its into the radius. Dont forget if you too high you cant get the connector on the throttle as the SS master mount will block you.

Sitting here... Trying to figure out the best play.
1. cutting the bar is out.... BAD!
2. Ive see Edward's plate, it has potential but I need some plate stock
3. I could try to slot the hole and cut more off the side at the circular rib
4. Spacers.... not my favorite idea.
5. cut the bracket at the top radius and re weld it a material thickness lower effectively raising the mount and re drilling the lower hole.
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Opinions welcome.

[M22_COBRA]

I sat in front of the foot box for about 3 hours thinking on what to do, I'm sure we have all done it lol. What came to me in the final hour as the best course of action was to redrill the firewall and raise the bracket. I didn't want to eclipse holes so I am going to use a larger 3/16 rivet .25" grip which uses a smaller hole and provides adequate offset to the existing hole. The bracket ended up needing 3/8" vertically. Its trapped by the MC bracket, firewall, inner panel flange and its still bolted to the original hole in the bottom (added new mating hole on the chassis side). I can barely get it out or in position, I don't know how this would fail and come loose on the road. The result is plenty of room & clearance everywhere. I haven't run the pop rivet yet, I will add washers on the backside to take up the extra length.
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The end result seems pretty legit but I haven't run it home yet. Trying to figure if I want to chop the bottom per the instructions and flip or leave it down. Either way under full stroke it has 3/8"-1/2" clearance to the tightest spot on the pedal to the inner panel. The pedal is planar with the edge of the 1"x1" but clear to sheet metal ( I installed the upper to check.) Thoughts on that?
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[M22_COBRA]

Finally ran the throttle pedal home. Happy with the end result, it would be nicer to have a smidge more room but that's just this car from what I understand.
Since then I've been going back and forth adding thermal mat and riveting in panels. Hindsight 20/20 I would have cut the thermal pads before I installed but it's not that bad. I do recommend two tools that help the install of the thermal deadening. #1 Amazon trim tool kit which will be useful for padding and getting sharp and stuffed corners with the carpet.
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#2 is a high heat gun. Mine goes to 800+F and I can dial the heat in to help it conform to an odd corner or stick to a edge.
I also made my own close out panel for the bottom. The gap was just way too big and I was afraid of the structural integrity without it. Is I rolled the mail around the 4" tube and made a right angle. Worked great.
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Still have some more thermal to add in the PS box but the the result was exactly what I was after in the engine Bay. Clean, slightly polished, and sealed nicely.
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[M22_COBRA]

I have the pro m hanger and the complete kit FFR fuel cell and have a question. I have been on hiatus for work in and vacation but I had some time to get back on the project with the fuel system. On assembly it was a bit tricky to get the hanger and the pump in after a small trim to the opening per the instructions, but it's in.
On assembly it seems the unit in the full installed position feels really tight vertically, almost compressed. I have no other adjustment. If I raise the pump in the hanger, the sock won't have enough "grab" on the pump to stay installed. My fear is there is not enough "curtain" area under the pump and at full song it could be restricted. Any thoughts?

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[gbranham]

Can you look in through the filler neck hole in the tank and see how much clearance you have between the pump and the floor of the tank? I have the same hanger, and now I'm curious. I installed mine and didn't give it another thought.

[cv2065]

I have the pro m hanger and the complete kit FFR fuel cell and have a question. I have been on hiatus for work in and vacation but I had some time to get back on the project with the fuel system. On assembly it was a bit tricky to get the hanger and the pump in after a small trim to the opening per the instructions, but it's in.
On assembly it seems the unit in the full installed position feels really tight vertically, almost compressed. I have no other adjustment. If I raise the pump in the hanger, the sock won't have enough "grab" on the pump to stay installed. My fear is there is not enough "curtain" area under the pump and at full song it could be restricted. Any thoughts?

IMG_20241208_180828_076.jpgPXL_20241208_230320978.jpg
PXL_20241105_003349662.jpg

It should just be hanging in the tank and certainly not tight or compressed. Did you get it fully into the sump? if you look through the filler neck hole on the side with a flashlight you should be able to tell. Take the rubber fitting out of course.

When in the sump, the hanger is relatively close to the inside of the sump wall. If you have the sock facing the sump wall instead of the opposite direction, it can feel a little tight as well. Best bet is to turn it around so the sock can unfold into the sump instead of being bunched up.

[M22_COBRA]

No I can't Tell how close it is to the sump wall. The sump itself is a little half dish and it's high enough that I can't see in all that well. Typically, I'm used to having the same cylinder area available for it to pull in via a cylindrical area calculation which should be equal or greater to the area of the 2D sump pickup... No?

It's definitely not hanging, and I feel that there is a slight bit of room to allow the sock to be between the gold metal hanger and the sump container in the fuel cell. But I don't know how hard it's smashing down on that thing, it feels pretty tight.
My other thought would be to put the sock inside the gold frame hanger, raise the pump up, and possibly shorten the pickup fuel hose to be able to raise it some. I just don't know. It just feels super tight.

[cv2065]

No I can't Tell how close it is to the sump wall. The sump itself is a little half dish and it's high enough that I can't see in all that well. Typically, I'm used to having the same cylinder area available for it to pull in via a cylindrical area calculation which should be equal or greater to the area of the 2D sump pickup... No?

It's definitely not hanging, and I feel that there is a slight bit of room to allow the sock to be between the gold metal hanger. Aunt the sump container in the fuel cell. But I don't know hard it's smashing down on that thing, it feels pretty tight.
My other thought would be to put the sock inside the gold frame hanger, raise the pump up, and possibly shorten the pickup fuel hose to be able to raise it some. I just don't know. It just feels super tight.

If you are looking in from the side with a flashlight and pull up on the hanger you should be able to see where the sock is pointing and that the hangar is in the sump. I'd also make sure that the sock is still secure and it didn't get knocked loose.

[M22_COBRA]

This might be the best picture I can get you. Trouble is I can see it but I can't touch it to understand how much Gap the sock has between the hanger and the bottom of the sump.
Does this look right?
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[gbranham]

I'm sure it's fine. Countless folks have installed this hanger in this tank. Can't imagine yours would be out of whack.

[BUDFIVE]

I have the pro m hanger and the complete kit FFR fuel cell and have a question. I have been on hiatus for work in and vacation but I had some time to get back on the project with the fuel system. On assembly it was a bit tricky to get the hanger and the pump in after a small trim to the opening per the instructions, but it's in.
On assembly it seems the unit in the full installed position feels really tight vertically, almost compressed. I have no other adjustment. If I raise the pump in the hanger, the sock won't have enough "grab" on the pump to stay installed. My fear is there is not enough "curtain" area under the pump and at full song it could be restricted. Any thoughts?

IMG_20241208_180828_076.jpgPXL_20241208_230320978.jpg
PXL_20241105_003349662.jpg

M22-what pump is that? It seems the bottom center input that the screen attaches to is pretty long? This would make the hanger assembly long and perhaps not fit vertically. Is the red a protective cover?
This is the Summit of 250103 pump I used with my ProM hanger, for reference. I had no fitment issues.
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[edwardb]

What you're installing is something a bunch of us have done. Myself on multiple builds. I suspect you're fine. But for reference, this is the bottom of that combination that was installed in my 20th Anniversary Roadster build. Two things of note: (1) There should be a small gasket between the pump inlet and the bottom of the hangar. Just visible as a black line in this picture. If missing, the pump might be pushed down more than normal. (2) Every sock I've used had the plastic ridges visible in this picture. Even if pushed against the bottom of the tank, there's still adequate passage for the fuel to enter the pump.

One other note just FYI. You referred to your tank as a "fuel cell." Confused me at first until I looked at your pictures. Yours isn't a fuel cell. That's a very specific tank made of heavier material, has a bladder, foam baffling, etc. Used in dedicated track cars and often required by certain sanctioning bodies. What you have is a standard OE Fox body Mustang fuel tank.

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[M22_COBRA]

M22-what pump is that? It seems the bottom center input that the screen attaches to is pretty long? This would make the hanger assembly long and perhaps not fit vertically. Is the red a protective cover?
This is the Summit of 250103 pump I used with my ProM hanger, for reference. I had no fitment issues.
IMG_1172.jpeg

Yeah that's just the cap, it's long. There's barely enough meat on the pump after it fits thru the bracket for the sock to grab. Its the same pump I got from summit. I'm sure I'm over reacting now.

[M22_COBRA]

What you're installing is something a bunch of us have done. Myself on multiple builds. I suspect you're fine. But for reference, this is the bottom of that combination that was installed in my 20th Anniversary Roadster build. Two things of note: (1) There should be a small gasket between the pump inlet and the bottom of the hangar. Just visible as a black line in this picture. If missing, the pump might be pushed down more than normal. (2) Every sock I've used had the plastic ridges visible in this picture. Even if pushed against the bottom of the tank, there's still adequate passage for the fuel to enter the pump.

One other note just FYI. You referred to your tank as a "fuel cell." Confused me at first until I looked at your pictures. Yours isn't a fuel cell. That's a very specific tank made of heavier material, has a bladder, foam baffling, etc. Used in dedicated track cars and often required by certain sanctioning bodies. What you have is a standard OE Fox body Mustang fuel tank.

IMG_3409.jpg

EdwardB yep, used your 20th as the guide and it has the rubber squash grommet. This sock did not have the ridges, but wish it did. Nice feature. I'm sure it's a cost cutting measure I wish mine had. I'm sure I'm overreacting, past experience just raised the concern. Really appreciate the help y'all!

Sorry about the "fuel cell" comment. I'm just way too used to speaking in the race shop around my work cars...
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[edwardb]

Sorry about the "fuel cell" comment. I'm just way too used to speaking in the race shop around my work cars...
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No need to apologize. It's usually impossible to know the knowledge/experience level of forum members. Many first time builders here. Carry on!

[M22_COBRA]

Lol, no more like 20 years of bad habits. Definitely not an expert at everything, always something to learn. Thanks for the help, I'll need it for sure when I get to electrical.

[M22_COBRA]

Quick post of the night, thought I'd share. Was looking for a cap for the fuel neck A BEHR spray paint cap or an assembly lube cap fits just right.
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[gbranham]

I think you mean fuel filler neck, not fuel vent. The vent is that brass 90 degree fitting in the background. Not trying to be pedantic...just correcting lest some newbies get confused.

[PMD24]

Just read through your whole thread. I'm about to get into sheet metal. Like the look of your polished panels. Can you share what you use/do for the polishing? Thanks.

[M22_COBRA]

I think you mean fuel filler neck, not fuel vent. The vent is that brass 90 degree fitting in the background.

100% spot on, fixed it. Doing this off the phone. Talk to text got me.

[M22_COBRA]

I use a aluminum polishing bar compound to get it clean with a wool 4" wheel. Then use a polish compound called CJ'S METAL gloss and finish with the CJs sealer.

I'll warn you. It's dirty, takes a long time, and it's very easy to go to far and burn a panel if your speed is too fast. I try to stay around 1100 rpm. Setup outside on sawhorses with clothes you don't care about and FAR away from the house or I promise the wife will have a fit. The sling is like cooper seize, it gets everywhere.

[M22_COBRA]

Gas tank is in! I used my portable vice then lightly, slightly, and ever so politely worked the flange flat and the last movement was a small adjustment down to line it up and make it flat. I did have a set of flat bill sheet metal grips I was gonna use. But since my gorilla hand strength has left me after my surgery, this was a work smarter way of getting it done. Only chipped the paint in two small areas.
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The passenger side is tight but it still has a large gap to the down bar... Normal? The tank ain't moving that's for sure.

Most of the day was spent getting the car off the dolly and onto stands. It was just up way to high and I wanted to bring it down now before the car got heavy. Had to deconstruct the dolly and it ended up being 18" tall. The jack stands have it at 19, and that's good enough. I now can get it down with the jack as it has enough drive at that height. No need for the engine hoist and straps. This way I can have the piece of mind it's on stands and If I need to move it I can drop it on the dolly and make a small adjustment.