Angelina: Build Story of my 4-wheeled Motorcycle

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I wanted to install all of the rest of the cockpit panels (except the large rear panel), but ran into typical planning issues: I am running out of my favorite multi-grip rivets and I haven't ordered my soundproofing / thermal insulation mats yet...

Here's how far I got: Driver's outer panels. Anyway, here's some pictures driver's cockpit outer panels1.jpg driver's cockpit outer panels2.jpg driver's cockpit outer panels3.jpg

Not wanting to just leave it at that, I decided to finish the installation of my charcoal canister and breathers. I like how it turned out

view looking toward front of vehicle final breather install1.jpg, view from above ... looking down final breather install2.jpg

Next, I installed my rear brake hardline and brackets to the main frame tubes. I used some black gasket maker to keep the corrosion at bay underneath the brackets (and to hold into place if I need to adjust the lines a little). I had a picture, but the image quality was bad...

Next, I wanted to install the rest of the Driver's footbox panels, then realized that some builder's wished they had added the Cool-Mat before inastalling the inner panels. I checked and decided to heed the advice. Not much room to get insulating mats in there driver's inner footbox panel needs insulation before being installed.jpg so I'll pre-fit the insulation before final installing that panel ... which means I'll be waiting on the next Summit delivery this week

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Not too much progress this past weekend due to running other errands and taking care of Fall chores, but I did manage to "final" install the Passenger-side outer cockpit panels. While I was at it, I "semi-final" installed the fuel hardlines (I still need to install the decorative anti-scuff shim between the fuel lines and the Passenger-side floor panel).

Here's the pictures: passenger cockpit outer panels1.jpg semi-final install of fuel hardlines.jpg passenger cockpit outer panels2.jpg

I also painted 250 of my favorite-style rivets rattle-can chassis-black since Summit only has bare metal choices left No pictures 'cause that's kinda boring, but I just poked holes in some spare cardboard in a matrix pattern and painted top and bottom. Some of you may be thinking that this was a waste of time...perhaps, but one of my goals is to have Angelina look just as dazzling without her pretty red dress on

Next time, I think I'll try some wire harness customization...

Happy Building!

Craig C

[gbranham]

While those rivets look nice, I can't imagine rationalizing painting something that will be totally covered by, say, carpet. But, if it makes you feel better about your project, I suppose it's worth it.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks for following my build

It is certainly proceeding slower than planned due to my OCD about trivial details

Sometimes getting focused on very small things actually helps me to see the big picture -- as crazy as that sounds!

Craig C

[Justin]

I do like the rivets. Hidden or not. I'm thinking a dark grey metallic with some black rivets for the visible panels will look nice. Thanks for sharing.

[Jeff Kleiner]

While those rivets look nice, I can't imagine rationalizing painting something that will be totally covered by, say, carpet. But, if it makes you feel better about your project, I suppose it's worth it.

Kinda' like my buddy Bart who mirror finish polished every single interior and trunk panel then covered them with carpet! I think mostly it gave him something to do while he was in the garage drinking beer

Jeff

[gbranham]

Kinda' like my buddy Bart who mirror finish polished every single interior and trunk panel then covered them with carpet! I think mostly it gave him something to do while he was in the garage drinking beer

Jeff

Yep, very much the same. Although I did powdercoat every aluminum panel on my car...only to cover most of it in carpet.

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I hope you had a nice Thanksgiving

I spent part of my time getting the trunk area prepped for the final panel install...

First, I double-checked that my harness with new split loom from WireCare would still fit where the drop trunk goes. I'm glad I checked! the Heavy-Duty split loom that I wanted to use added just a little bit more overall thickness than I had originally planned for. No worries, I just drilled for a new location for that wire clamp and now I have an extra screw location (if I ever needed it) Here's the result rear harness adjusted for drop-trunk clearance.jpg

Next, I made a mini-harness for the taillight converter in case I ever decide (or can't get parts for the standard rectangular taillights) and have to resort to the double bullet-style. My intention was to run all the standard wires in the rear harness (even if they don't get used now) and have the option for the converter "delete". I used "flat" split loom and this was my 1st attempt at making WeatherPack connectors...taillight converter mini-harness.jpg and here it is installed along the normal loom with zip-ties taillight converter mini-harness installed.jpg

Next, I finally decided to "mount" the parking brake cables "somewhere", and decided on magnetic mounts from MagDaddy. I affixed to the top of the differential case. I'm not sure if the installation will help to isolate the steel shavings anymore that the typical drain plug, but I figured it couldn't hurt...mag-daddy parking brake clamps on diff.jpg

I liked how my 1st harness "redesign" came out. I used cloth harness tape to isolate each breakout and then for those critical areas, I also wrapped with self-sticking silicone tape. I ended up relocating the license-plate light wiring a good 10" from stock and created a break-out connector for the previously-mentioned taillight converter. I made a couple of mistakes and had to splice a mistakenly-cut wire and decided to double-up some wires, too, just as was done originally in some of the connectors. Here's a final look rear harness final install in perimeter of trunk.jpg

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

More catching up was done to get my trunk and driver's side inside footbox panels ready...

First up: I decided to re-do my front brake hardline to have a better appearance and because I just wasn't sure if the prior attempt had issues with the AN flare...

redone front brake hardline1.jpg and a side view redone front brake hardline2.jpg

Happy with that result, I pre-assembled my drop-trunk panels: final pre-assy of drop trunk panels.jpg here's a close-up of properly formed multi-grip rivets. I think the key is to use a #30 drill bit instead of a simple 1/8". It allows the rivet to deform properly like a stack properly deformed multi-grip rivets inside the drop trunk.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I finally got the details done to "final" install the Driver's side front footbox panel. It meant I needed to pre-fit some thermal padding and confirm the rear brake hardlines were properly fastened (snugged up w/anti-seize on the junction threads and with threadlocker for the mounting pads).

Here's pre-assembly of the top and bottom inner footbox panels final install of driver's inner footbox panels.jpg

Then pre-fitment of the thermal pad, including punched rivet hole relief, pre-bent and pre-indented for no interference with the standard AccPed bracket pre-relieved driver's inner footbox panel thermal pad.jpg then attached with the self-adhesive backing first thermal pad installed.jpg

Here's the result final install of driver's inner footbox panel assy.jpg and "road gravel" view of rear brake hardline bulkhead connection rear brake hardline bulkhead detail.jpg

I'm happy with the results

Craig C

[danmas]

Really nice looking work.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Dan!

I appreciate the feedback

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I managed to tighten my fuel lines at the junction of the flex lines running to/from the tank and filter to the hardlines running up the Passenger side, and then loctited the hardline mounting blocks to the frame for the final install under the car. This meant that I was (for the most part) finished with the details under the trunk area (until I get the tank mounted...

This meant that I could "button up" the forward trunk floor panel finally

Here's some pictures: Top side upper trunk panel installed.jpg and under side Driver's side under trunk view1.jpg Passenger Side under trunk view1.jpg Under trunk view without fuel tank.jpg

I'm happy with the results

Next time I'm under there, I'll be installing the drop trunk box, the lower rear trunk panel, and the fuel tank...

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In my zeal to catch-up to get the cockpit panels installed, I realized that I skipped a step ...

I wanted to add some in-tunnel thermal pads after all. I wish I made up my mind before I installed those panels

Oh well...in order to properly apply the stick-on pads, I realized that I need to install that very small Driver's side access panel. I measured the distance to the drivetrain that has not been mounted yet, and I didn't see a reason to keep that access panel for any maintenance, so I decided to rivet and bond in-place. I used "normal head" 1/8" rivets since the proportion seems agreeable. Here's a picture: Driver's side tunnel small access panel.jpg

Then I could carefully measure via paper templates how I wanted the thermal stick-on pad to be laid-out. It was still a little bit of a struggle to position and press on (kinda burnish) the pad into place...then just as challenging was to measure, locate, and place the seam tape. This was the "easy" side. I'll try the Passenger side tomorrow. Anyway, here's a picture of the result: Driver's Side tunnel heat shield with seam tape.jpg

I didn't actually use a rubber roller for this install. Instead, I actually used some plastic trim removal tools. I used the one that's kinda shaped like a putty knife. I think it worked pretty well

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got the Passenger side in-tunnel thermal pad installed and finished up the edges with the seam tape. Here's some pictures of the progress: Passenger Side tunnel heat shield with seam tape.jpg and here's a powertrain perspective of the completed job Tunnel heat shield with seam tape.jpg

Next post: finally catching up to p.169 of the Build Manual...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I finally got caught up to p.169 of the Build Manual. I decided to use "normal" head 1/8" rivets along the top edge of the trans tunnel so that I'd have adequate room for the trans top panel with all the dimensional stack-up of pads/carpet (or upholstery), etc. The remaining rivets were all "large" head. Here's the pictures: Cockpit inner rear panels1.jpg Cockpit inner rear panels2.jpg Cockpit inner rear panels3.jpg

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

After getting the trans tunnel panels thermally insulated, my next task was to install the remaining trunk panels for the final time

The order that I chose worked for me, but to be honest, I probably should've installed the side panels later in the sequence. Anyway, here's the inner side panels Passenger side inner rear trunk panel.jpg Driver's side inner rear trunk panel.jpg

Then, I checked the rear frame rails for straightness and decided to add some shims to the rear trunk frame tubes before I installed the rear trunk panel (the reasoning will be more clear in the upcoming pictures) adding shims for rear trunk panel and bracket.jpg then installed the rear trunk panel and my "extension" bracket installed rear trunk panel and bracket.jpg

Finally, I installed the "RT" drop trunk installed drop trunk.jpg

Here's why I spent time with the shims: ("extension" bracket is nice and straight!) detail of rear trunk panel bracket straightness.jpg

Next post: final installation of the fuel tank

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I finally installed the fuel tank today, and it feels like real progress has been made this past week

Minor setbacks or concerns just present problems that get to be solved -- one by one

I'm happy that I spent some thought up-front about the rear harness and fuel line routing, because I suspected that I'd need to connect things before the tank was in the final position. My solution was to simply have more length than needed and simply loop the wires/lines so that they could be connected first, then raise the tank without messing up any geometry or layout. Worked out well...

Here's some detail pictures that might help others (sending unit harness loop w/MagDaddy zip-tie mount) detail of fuel sending unit harness underneath the installed trunk panels.jpg
(fuel pump harness and flex lines w/MagDaddy zip-tie mounts) detail of fuel pump harness underneath trunk panels.jpg detail of fuel pump harness underneath trunk panels2.jpg detail of fuel lines underneath trunk panels.jpg

Next project: finish plumbing the brake system and bleed it...

Until next time -- Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I hope you had a Merry Christmas! I spent mine with my BroBro and it was a nice visit

When I got back to my garage, I really wanted to finish my brake system, but got derailed after I noticed corrosion in my Earl's flexline! Surprised me too front brake footbox flex-line corrosion detail.jpg Sure enough, the fitting itself is only zinc-coated steel...although I'm not exactly sure how it got corroded since it has never seen fluid...fortunately, the same part number was in-stock at Summit...now just have to wait for it.

In the mean-time, there's always some little job that needs doing, so I refocused: first up, install the powder-coated "bridge" bracket that keeps the main harness out-of-the-way of the steering shaft installed wiring harness bridge bracket over steering shaft.jpg

then, pre-assembled my remote reservoir bracket pre-assembled remote reservoir bracket.jpg

next, affixing more thermal pad in the front of the driver's footbox driver's front footbox thermal pad installed.jpg

lastly, installing the unused front footbox access panel front footbox unused access panel installed.jpg

Next post: more panel installations for the trunk...

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I completed the installation of my outside trunk panels. Recall that I modified them to permit easier body installation later (I hope) and to permit more installation flexibility for the rear wheelwell splash panels. In doing so, the installation required rivets and riv-nuts...

But 1st, I prepped for shims to keep the panels flat: DS driver's outer trunk side panel shim prep.jpg PS passenger outer trunk side panel shim prep.jpg

Here's the layout right before final installation: DS driver's outer trunk side panel installation prep.jpg PS passenger outer trunk side panel installation prep.jpg

Installed! driver's outer trunk side panel installed.jpg passenger outer trunk side panel installed.jpg

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got my replacement Earl's "flex-line" for my front brakes that I wanted to install in the footbox

Recall that I chose to use "flex-line" as a way to possibly allow for an easier replacement of the master cylinders (if that were ever needed ), and frankly to avoid the drama of making more stainless hardlines in that tight area. I'm done with all that stress for a while!

So, here's the layout: bulkhead brake line install in footbox1.jpg and a view at the master cylinders brake line install in footbox2.jpg

My previous planning for adding a grommet for the rear flex-line (as it passed thru the accped bracket) seemed to be all for naught, as I struggled to get my hands in the tight spaces. I remembered that windshield installers simply use a cord in the weatherstrip to pull it into place, so I tried it for my grommet and it worked great! Here's a picture brake line install in footbox3.jpg

Then, I used some slippery "stuff" meant for installing electrical lines in homes for the rubber reservoir lines as they passed thru my special "3-hole" grommet and that worked fine, too brake line install in footbox4.jpg brake line install in footbox6.jpg

Chewy was right! I designed my remote reservoir bracket such that I must get the panels riveted before the final installation -- otherwise there's no room to get the tools in there...so, that means I must wait to install the remote reservoirs, and instead consider all the other jobs that must be done before adding the top cover for the footbox. With that top panel installed, I just don't have the room for my hands, and would like to avoid the frustrations

So...since I've recently read about throttle linkage issues, I figured I'd try a cardboard mockup, and I'm glad I did! My planned layout just doesn't leave enough room for the actuator arms inside the footbox at WOT. I'll have to figure this out some more... Forte' throttle linkage mock-up in footbox.jpg

It's just as well...getting hit with winter weather now, and I'll need some time to think

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I've been "noodling" over the footbox throttle linkage and I just didn't like how the RT "tribute" accel pedal geometry was working for me, so I decided to figure it out as best as I could. I measured the layout and the moving parts in a "free-form" diagram, and then put it on paper. Then used some geometry and Trigonometry to come up with a plan to address the many constraints in the way (limited space for full articulation, pedal orientation at idle and full-travel, and linkage geometry that might impact pedal sensitivity). Here's my thinking pad throttle linkage analysis.jpg

Then I cut out some aluminum stock for an experimental accelerator pedal lever arm to try out my ideas experimental accped lever arm.jpg

Here's some pictures for mockup: experimental accped lever arm mockup1.jpg experimental accped lever arm mockup2.jpg experimental accped lever arm mockup3.jpg

I can understand why RT designed his the way he did -- lots of compromises to adapt to. I'm still on-the-fence about my new linkage geometry at off-idle position -- I don't want it to be too sensitive at initial AccPed tip-in, but it's nice to know I have an alternative that will bolt-in when that time comes...

I'm hoping that my measurements are reasonable because the real critical factor is the space at the top of the footbox for the Forte' lever arm. I suppose I could make a different set, but they are very nice. I'll keep them for now

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

One of the other customizations I had planned for my build was to emulate John Ibele's center console design -- I really liked it and was impressed by his work

I measured and cut out some construction paper today to mock one into place to visualize and think about it some more...
center console mockup1.jpg center console mockup2.jpg center console mockup3.jpg

Granted, it's very rough: sharp creases (whereas I liked the curved side edges of John's design), angles aren't perfect, mounting flanges aren't thought thru...but I like it so far.

My intention is to design a sprung access door with a keyed push-button latch, and have enough room for garage door opener, ear plugs...maybe a power plug...and to hide some of my chassis harnesses )

Until next time...Happy Building!

Craig C