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Thread: Transmission tunnel fitment

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Oct 2023
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    Transmission tunnel fitment

    I'm ready to seal up the transmission tunnel in my build and I'd like to solicit forum feedback. For those who have completed their builds, I had a couple questions:

    1) Did you decide to rivet the transmission tunnel to the floor or use bolts/rivnuts for future serviceability?
    2) If you chose bolts or screws, did you seal the tunnel with silicon or another product that is more serviceable (e.g., foam tape/weatherstripping)?
    3) For those who installed sound deadening mat or coating, did you install it over the trans tunnel to floor seam, or did you install it so that you could pull the tunnel without cutting or pulling up the mat?
    4) Would you do it again given the chance?

    Thanks in advance. I really appreciate the shared wisdom on this forum.

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    Couple pictures and some description in my build thread here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post477833

    1. Bolts with locknuts underneath except where blocked by the frame so used nutserts.

    2. I put a bead of silicone around the edges to seal. None on the mating surfaces.

    3. I didn't put sound deadening over the screws. When I bonded the carpeting, I covered the flanges with the screws but didn't use adhesive there. I also added floor mats which kept everything flat.

    4. Same. Wouldn't be fun to take out but it would have been possible.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  4. #3
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    It is great that you are thinking through these details while it is easy to build it the way to like for serviceability.

    1) I used button head fasteners to install the trans tunnel so it could be removed. I used mostly rivnuts so it could be removed from inside the cab. I’m glad I did since I’ve removed it once already.

    2) I used foam weatherstrip tape on the mating surfaces (1/8”). I had to be thoughtful when installing since both the front (firewall) and bottom (floor) are both sealed. I focused on tight to the firewall, then tight to the floor.

    3) I left a gap in the sound deadening mat around the trans tunnel so it could be easily removed. I left the carpet lap the joint a little so the seam is hidden under the floor mat.

    4) I would do it the same again. I’m always a fan of making it serviceable. Although it is still a lot of work to remove the console, pull back the carpet and remove the trans tunnel.

    Good luck with your build!

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