Upper Steering Column Spring Washers

[Doc76]

Anyone happen to have a picture of the titled part?
The two parts are missing from my column.
I need to source a few. FFR didn't have an image or any details on this part and I want to make sure I get the correct style. Seems to be several types of 1/4" spring washers, various thicknesses and bend-types.

[michael everson]

I dont use them. Drill and tap a couple of 1/4-20 or equivalent Holes a few inches apart on the same side of the outer tube. Slide the inner shaft where you want it and then lightly tighten the screws with some red loctite on them. Tighten them just enough to take the wiggle out but still able to collapse.
Mike

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jeff

[Jim1855]

I like Mike's solution.
Might suggest flat point set screws in 1/4-28 thread, the outer sleeve isn't that thick, and the finer threads provides a higher thread count. The flat points wouldn't bite in the way a cup point would.
Jim

[Grubester]

As most may know, McMaster-Carr has one of the most extensive hardware catalogs with quick shipping and reasonable pricing (in my experience).
ALSO, they have a VERY impressive search feature in their HW listings. I wish others would copy/steal it!
Here's a link, just btw, for something similar to what Jeff K. posted:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/st...rs/springs-1~/

[CraigS]

I also went the bolt/nut route. I first used a G8 pair and tightened it as tight as I could so I would collapse the outer shaft. Then I pulled the G8 stuff and replaced it w/ standard hardware store stuff.

[mrglaeser]

If you want to go with the spring washers still, I had to replace mine. Here is an older forum post with the McMaster-Carr part number, the number, and a link
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/arch...p/t-26484.html
Part Number 9712K62
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/1538/9712K62

I ordered the replacements and they worked fine, plus now I have a couple spares. They come in a pack of 12 for $6.50 plus shipping.

[BornWestUSA]

1 9712K62 Belleville Disc Spring for 1/4" Shaft Diameter, 0.255" ID, 0.5" OD, 0.0220" Thick, Packs of 12

That is the McMaster ones I used, better than it was, but still not "tight", you can feel some slop between the two components.

[Doc76]

Thanks guys
Anything will be better than the corner cut to put mine together as you can see from the little shim sticking out I can grab and pull out.
IMG_1230.jpg

[Doc76]

I pulled the column apart to find that the spring washers were in fact there. They are .005” lower in height than the new ones I picked up from MC. I have not reinstalled yet however noticed the bearing in the firewall has, what I would consider, excessive play between the collar holding the shaft into the bearing, and the spherical bearing itself. There doesn’t appear to be a set screw in this joint and rather I only see a set screw in the connection of the shaft and the collar itself.
And suggestions?

[rich grsc]

I pulled the column apart to find that the spring washers were in fact there. They are .005” lower in height than the new ones I picked up from MC. I have not reinstalled yet however noticed the bearing in the firewall has, what I would consider, excessive play between the collar holding the shaft into the bearing, and the spherical bearing itself. There doesn’t appear to be a set screw in this joint and rather I only see a set screw in the connection of the shaft and the collar itself.
And suggestions?

Are both retainers on the same side of the foot box? They should be on the inside. The bearing and collar should lock together by rotating the collar against the bearing flange, most are eccentric

[Rian_Colorado]

So mine on my Coupe was so tight that I didn't bother with using anything at all. The shaft is secured above that point by the set screws in the pillow block, and below by the set screws on the bearing at the firewall. I might get it if the shaft was so loose that it wiggled or something, but I had to sand down the upper shaft quite a bit in order to get it to slide into the lower shaft at all....

RR

[Doc76]

Are both retainers on the same side of the foot box? They should be on the inside. The bearing and collar should lock together by rotating the collar against the bearing flange, most are eccentric

Hey Rich
I believe if I follow what you’re saying, yes it seems to be oriented the way it should be. Set screws are tight.
It seems loose where I have highlighted red here.

IMG_1620.jpeg

[Norm B]

Doc, it may be your picture but, it looks like only one of the mounting plates is on the inside of the foot box. As Rich said, both have to be on one side of the foot box front and pinch the bearing tightly. With power brakes they have to be on the inside to not interfere with the brake booster.

Norm

[Doc76]

There are two plates there on the inside.
1/2” spacer behind the new booster gave me ~1/8” clearance from steering components so I’m good there.
IMG_1624.jpg

FFR suggested a worn bearing but with 500 miles, I don’t see how that’s possible.
Given the steering column mating parts clearance issues I see in other threads, I’m leaning towards a faulty bearing/collar tolerance issue unless I am still missing something here.

I’m wondering if there is a Macmaster Carr part number selectable or would this be a FFR specific assy?

[rich grsc]

I hate that type of bearing, it has no separate locking flange, just 2 set screws

[Doc76]

I hate that type of bearing, it has no separate locking flange, just 2 set screws

Is there an alternative that’s better?
If so could you share?

Thanks

Update: I shared a video with FFR on the play and they agreed it appears I have a faulty bearing and that the play should not exist where it is. They are sending me a new bearing.
Thanks again to all those that offered up suggestions

[rich grsc]

I don’t have a part number. It would be a farm part