Does anyone have experience with digital dash? I looked at DD-EFI, they look pretty good. I'd like to hear about other people's experience with any kind of digital dash. Thanks.
Last edited by James Morse; 05-03-2021 at 04:03 PM.
I am helping someone that is using the AiM PDM with 10" display in their Type 65 R. This $2400 solution will replace all the fuses & relays in the car as well as providing a configurable color display, and GPS-based data logger and lap timing system.
I have worked with a couple of these installations, plus lots of digital dashes from MoTeC, AiM, Stack, Cosworth. Most of these are in pure race car applications.
Here's another option to check into, from one of the forum supporting members. Tino is a good knowledgeable source and should be able to answer your questions.
Hope you don’t mind if I bump this thread. Curious if anyone has any new/updated digital dashes they’ve like to share. I’m leaning towards an AIM data logger screen with PDM, but haven’t fully decided if I plan to go that route yet
I have an AIM MXL2 in my race car and it’s excellent. Seriously considering installing one in the Coupe - when the kit arrives in July. Also have the AIM Smarty cam which integrates perfectly if you like video.
Maybe not what you're looking for, but I did a conversion to a Dakota Digital dash in my 1970 El Camino years ago. It was pretty straightforward and worked perfectly. They have some really nice non-car specific clusters that may look nice in the Coupe.
I believe Greg at 520 Speedworks did one in the restoration that they did of a wrecked Cobra last year(?). You might check in with them, or look up their videos on their youtube channel.
Rick
Mk4 with Mr. Bruce FIA body, 331 w/ Speedmaster Stack Injection, Full Width Roll Bar with high brake lights by i.e.427, IRS, ABS, PS, PB, FAST FI, First start 3/30/20, First go-kart 7/5/20, paint by Ken Pike
I will shout out about seeing David Ferguson on this forum, top notch data system supplier that I have purchased items from in the past. The AIM PDM would be a nice setup.
I am helping someone that is using the AiM PDM with 10" display in their Type 65 R. This $2400 solution will replace all the fuses & relays in the car as well as providing a configurable color display, and GPS-based data logger and lap timing system.
I have worked with a couple of these installations, plus lots of digital dashes from MoTeC, AiM, Stack, Cosworth. Most of these are in pure race car applications.
I'm using that same setup in my build. Working well so far. Very customizable
Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand. Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21, CA SB100 Registered 8/27/24 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here
Nice! Sounds like you've installed the AIM PDM and Dash combo in one of these? What all did you need to complete the non-drivetrain circuits? Did you still use the AIM wiring harness? Or did you use the FFR-supplied wiring in the kit?
Would be very interested if you can share anything in regards to the config file to work backwards from
Much appreciated!
Originally Posted by lewma
Looks clean David.
Here's the route I'm taking with that display too. Still rough at this point.
I have an AIM MXL2 in my race car and it’s excellent. Seriously considering installing one in the Coupe - when the kit arrives in July. Also have the AIM Smarty cam which integrates perfectly if you like video.
Video is a big motivator for me. I use an AIM Solo II DL and smartycam in my other car. It's so seamless and reliable. Definitely want to do the same with this - plus add a backup camera ha
Last edited by Honeybadger; 02-01-2023 at 10:57 PM.
Are you doing the full pdm and dash kit? What are you planning to use the three gauge holes for in the center?
One more - how come you inset the display in the dash the way you did? Is it for visibility when sitting in the driver's seat?
Yes using the PDM32. Used almost all of the circuits. I've inset the display like it is so I can see as much of the display as possible through the steering wheel. Still got to do a lot of work around the display to get it seated correctly in the dash. The 3 holes in the center are vents.
Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand. Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21, CA SB100 Registered 8/27/24 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here
Yes using the PDM32. Used almost all of the circuits. I've inset the display like it is so I can see as much of the display as possible through the steering wheel. Still got to do a lot of work around the display to get it seated correctly in the dash. The 3 holes in the center are vents.
Nice! Did you use the AIM wiring harness with the flying leads? Or modify the wiring harness that came with the kit?
Do you have any install details you'd be willing to share? Pics, documentation, number of circuits used, etc.
Nice! Sounds like you've installed the AIM PDM and Dash combo in one of these? What all did you need to complete the non-drivetrain circuits? Did you still use the AIM wiring harness? Or did you use the FFR-supplied wiring in the kit?
Would be very interested if you can share anything in regards to the config file to work backwards from
Much appreciated!
We are just getting started on the harness design. I will be creating a custom harness, just using the connectors supplied with the PDM kit. I create harness layout drawings in OpenOffice Draw (see below), and use spreadsheets for the wiring pinout details. Next step with this drawing, is to decide where junctions points are in the car, and measure up each of the harness segments and add that to the document.
Here is the preliminary design. Note the front / rear harnesses may have connectors allowing them to be disconnected, or they may be integral with the center harness. To be decided.
Oops the forum won't let me upload a 1.4MB PDF. Just send me an email ([email protected]) and I'll email it to you.
We are just getting started on the harness design. I will be creating a custom harness, just using the connectors supplied with the PDM kit. I create harness layout drawings in OpenOffice Draw (see below), and use spreadsheets for the wiring pinout details. Next step with this drawing, is to decide where junctions points are in the car, and measure up each of the harness segments and add that to the document.
Here is the preliminary design. Note the front / rear harnesses may have connectors allowing them to be disconnected, or they may be integral with the center harness. To be decided.
Oops the forum won't let me upload a 1.4MB PDF. Just send me an email ([email protected]) and I'll email it to you.
Originally Posted by lewma
I created my own wiring harness and just used the connectors and pins that came with the PDM32
Thanks both. I'll share my info back in a few months when I get my kit and am able to share how I approached it! Looking forward to hearing how your installs turn out once done!
Search function brought me to this thread. I'm really leaning towards a digital display instead of separate gauges. There seems to be quite a bit of options for that, just finding the right one that fits the budget and works best for a street car application will be key. Dakota Digital seems to offer some nice designs that would work in a Roadster dash from what I've seen so far.
What I didn't know about prior to this thread, were PDM's. A PDM seems like the way to go. I really like the idea of eliminating the fuse block, and relays, and streamlining the wiring, which is already going to be an overwhelming task.
I sort of understand the concept of how the PDM works, what I'm unclear of is the CANbus interface for it. Does the CANbus just streamline the switching inputs to the PDM ? So less input wires are needed ?
For those that have been running a digital display, and or PDM on the street, do you have any feedback ? Any suggestions ?
We can certainly help you learn more about power distribution modules in the car. The whole point of running a CANbus is to minimize the number and bulk of wires in the car. This also helps eliminate the total number of electrical connections in the car, each one is a potential failure point. Fundamentally, you have a main controller and multiple slave modules. In most architectures, the main controller connects to your switches and the slave modules are your output modules. Main controller behind the dash to connect locally to the switches and signals from the ECU. The slave modules are located in the car where they are close to the things that you need to turn on and off: headlights, high-beams, turn signals, fans, fuel pumps, starter solenoids, ECU's, audio, etc. Each slave module needs to get power from the battery and a simple two-wire connection back to the main controller. Instead of running a wire for every thing in the car back to a central fuse box, you are powering your loads locally from a slave module in the front of the car or the rear of the car. You're simply running a two-wire data connection through the car.
Since the main controller and slaves controllers have a good deal of processing power, you can do a lot more with them than just a relay. You can do timing, delays, patterns, flashing and logic features.
In our system, we use the commercial truck CAN standard. It is called J1939. In our new IPM1 kit, we're making all of our J1939 commands open-source so if you have switches or touch screens that can communicate on CAN, they can seamlessly send us the commands to turn things on and off. If you are using a touch screen as your main interface for your car, you can eliminate a lot of your mechanical switches and their wires.
Please let us know if you have any additional questions about the benefits of a CANbus system.
Jay
Jay Harris
Infinitybox, LLC http://infinitybox.com/
Manufacturers of the INFINITYBOX Intelligent Wiring System
We can certainly help you learn more about power distribution modules in the car. The whole point of running a CANbus is to minimize the number and bulk of wires in the car. This also helps eliminate the total number of electrical connections in the car, each one is a potential failure point. Fundamentally, you have a main controller and multiple slave modules. In most architectures, the main controller connects to your switches and the slave modules are your output modules. Main controller behind the dash to connect locally to the switches and signals from the ECU. The slave modules are located in the car where they are close to the things that you need to turn on and off: headlights, high-beams, turn signals, fans, fuel pumps, starter solenoids, ECU's, audio, etc. Each slave module needs to get power from the battery and a simple two-wire connection back to the main controller. Instead of running a wire for every thing in the car back to a central fuse box, you are powering your loads locally from a slave module in the front of the car or the rear of the car. You're simply running a two-wire data connection through the car.
Since the main controller and slaves controllers have a good deal of processing power, you can do a lot more with them than just a relay. You can do timing, delays, patterns, flashing and logic features.
In our system, we use the commercial truck CAN standard. It is called J1939. In our new IPM1 kit, we're making all of our J1939 commands open-source so if you have switches or touch screens that can communicate on CAN, they can seamlessly send us the commands to turn things on and off. If you are using a touch screen as your main interface for your car, you can eliminate a lot of your mechanical switches and their wires.
Please let us know if you have any additional questions about the benefits of a CANbus system.
Jay
Thanks for the reply Jay. Just a question, your Infinitybox managment system eliminates the need for a PDM, along with a CANbus switch panel ? Basically combining them ?
Search function brought me to this thread. I'm really leaning towards a digital display instead of separate gauges. There seems to be quite a bit of options for that, just finding the right one that fits the budget and works best for a street car application will be key. Dakota Digital seems to offer some nice designs that would work in a Roadster dash from what I've seen so far.
What I didn't know about prior to this thread, were PDM's. A PDM seems like the way to go. I really like the idea of eliminating the fuse block, and relays, and streamlining the wiring, which is already going to be an overwhelming task.
I sort of understand the concept of how the PDM works, what I'm unclear of is the CANbus interface for it. Does the CANbus just streamline the switching inputs to the PDM ? So less input wires are needed ?
For those that have been running a digital display, and or PDM on the street, do you have any feedback ? Any suggestions ?
I'm using the Aim Sport PDM32 with 10" digital display. There is no messing with canbus at all unless you want to add in 3rd party devices or accessories. You hook up your wiring to the PDM module, hook up the display too then run their configuration software to setup how you want inputs/outputs to perform.
I'm using the Aim Sport PDM32 with 10" digital display. There is no messing with canbus at all unless you want to add in 3rd party devices or accessories. You hook up your wiring to the PDM module, hook up the display too then run their configuration software to setup how you want inputs/outputs to perform.
That is a pretty nice set up. Is this in a street car or a race car ? Would the display work well for a weekend driver ? With any of these setups one just has to layout their own harness to whatever things need to be powered, correct ?
I'm a designer in the automotive industry, and we are always struggling to package harnesses. With all the content that keeps being added, they just get bigger and bigger. The PDM set up seems like the way to go and would help so much. I wonder why the OEM's aren't adopting this kind of tech.
That is a pretty nice set up. Is this in a street car or a race car ? Would the display work well for a weekend driver ? With any of these setups one just has to layout their own harness to whatever things need to be powered, correct ?
I'm a designer in the automotive industry, and we are always struggling to package harnesses. With all the content that keeps being added, they just get bigger and bigger. The PDM set up seems like the way to go and would help so much. I wonder why the OEM's aren't adopting this kind of tech.
Yes, this is a street car and the display works fine for street use. This system is customizable to the point of what icons you want to display and when. The 10" display comes in 2 versions. "race icons" or "road icons". I went with the "road icons".
When I configured my system I went wire by wire on the existing GM ECU fuse box then configured the same functionality in the PDM. If you're comfortable with configuration software you can do anything with it. I learned this past weekend how to do self canceling turn signals.
Note: I'm not affiliated with Aim Sport in any way. Just like their products
Last edited by lewma; 01-22-2025 at 12:37 PM.
Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand. Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21, CA SB100 Registered 8/27/24 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here
Yes, this is a street car and the display works fine for street use. This system is customizable to the point of what icons you want to display and when. The 10" display comes in 2 versions. "race icons" or "road icons". I went with the "road icons".
When I configured my system I went wire by wire on the existing GM ECU fuse box then configured the same functionality in the PDM. If you're comfortable with configuration software you can do anything with it. I learned this past weekend how to do self canceling turn signals.
Note: I'm not affiliated with Aim Sport in any way. Just like their products
I can sort of work my smartphone...Lol.
So, you kept the GM fuse block because you are running the GM ECU ? I plan on running a Edelbrock Pro Flo, so am assuming I'd use the PDM to power the Edelbrock ECU.
Thanks for the reply Jay. Just a question, your Infinitybox managment system eliminates the need for a PDM, along with a CANbus switch panel ? Basically combining them ?
There are two key parts to our IPM1 Kit. The first is the MASTERCELL. I always tell guys to think of this as the brain. It connects to your switches and sends commands to the POWERCELLs, which are the muscles, over CAN. We don't have a switch panel in our system per se. Our MASTERCELL connects to the switches you have in your car. These include your ignition switch, turn signal stalk, headlight switch, dimmer switch for high-beams, brake pedal switch, back-up switch on the transmission or shifter, door pin switches, etc. We even can take in the cooling fan and fuel pump triggers from your ECU or EFI system.
When you turn on a switch, the MASTERCELL sends a CAN command to the POWERCELLs in the car: typically one in the front and one in the rear. The POWERCELLs would be the equivalent to a Power Distribution Module (PDM). They have the solid-state relays for switching and the fuses for circuit protection in one module. Each POWERCELL has 10 outputs. These outputs can each supply 25-amps, up to a total of 120-amps for the whole POWERCELL. With the POWERCELL, you are eliminating the need for external relays and external fuse holders. Those are built in. Since we are using solid-state MOSFETs instead of mechanical relays, we can do things like pulse-width modulation (PWM). We can soft start lights and fans. We can adjust the brightness of lights or the speed of motors. We can also get theater dimming effects on interior lights.
Since the MASTERCELL has wired inputs, you can completely wire your car with our IPM1 kit and keep the look and feel of traditional switches. It takes very little current to turn on a MASTERCELL input. This means that you have complete flexibility with the kinds of switches you can use. You can easily use any OEM-style switch. You can also use practically any other switch you want: billet switches, electronic switches, etc. All the high-current is switched in the POWERCELL. The MASTERCELL is just using the switch as a trigger.
Since we're using the J1939 standard, you can easily pair a CAN peripheral to our system for additional control. We work with a lot of companies that manufacture CAN-based switch panels, rocker switches and touch screens. There is even a new product on our website called inCONTROL. It is a small touch screen with a rotary encoder around it. It looks a lot like a Nest thermostat or the BMW iDrive controller. From that interface, you can control everything in your car from a control in your center console, your dash or your arm rest.
There are a lot of options...
Jay
Jay Harris
Infinitybox, LLC http://infinitybox.com/
Manufacturers of the INFINITYBOX Intelligent Wiring System
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by David Ferguson
