Morning Norm
The one in the car is 38 years old from a donor. Looking closely it’s been wire wheeled and repainted, my guess is several times by the look. Looking closely it has painted over rust all the way around the seam of the body and at the plunger. While I have the car apart, with my luck, I will get it back together and it’ll fail so makes sense, even for piece of mind, to replace it.
Once again it’s good that I have dove in this deep. The 3/4” tube that was coped around the booster, while the geometry is nicely done IMO, the welds are all cold lapped and have cracked as a result so I’ll have to get in there and fix it once I get the booster out.
I do like the Whitby mod assy however.
Actually the tubing mod looks OK; it's not a highly stressed tube. If you're inclined to change it it can be done much more simply by using a piece of 3/4" square tubing beside the existing tube to bridge the cut out portion. I bolt them in with key stock driven inside the tubes so that they don't crush but you could certainly weld it. Here's a couple of pics.
When you get into yours check to see if the booster is mounted directly up against the front wall of the footbox or if it is spaced forward away from it. The donor Mustangs have a double firewall so to keep the pedal and booster in the same relationship when used in our cars the booster had to be spaced forward off of the front wall approximately 3/8". If this isn't done it creates fitment issues and also the pedal will be high when at rest and may even contact the square tubing under the steering shaft. Mike Everson offers a machined spacer however I go cheap and easy by using flange nuts on the studs so that their flat faces rearward. I also use a piece of memory foam around the booster "snout" to seal off the hole.
Actually the tubing mod looks OK; it's not a highly stressed tube. If you're inclined to change it it can be done much more simply by using a piece of 3/4" square tubing beside the existing tube to bridge the cut out portion. I bolt them in with key stock driven inside the tubes so that they don't crush but you could certainly weld it. Here's a couple of pics.
When you get into yours check to see if the booster is mounted directly up against the front wall of the footbox or if it is spaced forward away from it. The donor Mustangs have a double firewall so to keep the pedal and booster in the same relationship when used in our cars the booster had to be spaced forward off of the front wall approximately 3/8". If this isn't done it creates fitment issues and also the pedal will be high when at rest and may even contact the square tubing under the steering shaft. Mike Everson offers a machined spacer however I go cheap and easy by using flange nuts on the studs so that their flat faces rearward. I also use a piece of memory foam around the booster "snout" to seal off the hole.
Cheers,
Jeff
Yes my booster is presently spaced out roughly the dim you mention. Thank you for the additional info. Perhaps I’ll just fix the welds, repaint and move on….
Correct booster is readily available locally which is a relief. Jeff do you paint the booster or is that a zinc coating of some sort?
Cheers
Doc, my booster came the colour in Jeff’s picture and rusted instantly when I moved to Nova Scotia. That is one of my projects on the to do list before spring driving season starts.
The booster is crimped together and, as long as the crimps aren’t rusted out, you should be okay. You could always test it to see if the diaphragm is good and holds vacuum before reassembling everything.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
Doc, my booster came the colour in Jeff’s picture and rusted instantly when I moved to Nova Scotia. That is one of my projects on the to do list before spring driving season starts.
The booster is crimped together and, as long as the crimps aren’t rusted out, you should be okay. You could always test it to see if the diaphragm is good and holds vacuum before reassembling everything.
Norm
Interesting. If it’s Cardone which most seem to be, they claim to be rust resistant coated. Having said that given your proximity to the ocean, that’s a game changer. I recently sold a waterfront home in Tofino on Vancouver island. If it wasn’t 316ss, I was forever rust inhibiting and/or painting things.
Crazy how harsh the ocean air was on everything.
Funny I picked the correct one up today from local auto parts. Nicely painted black with gold zinc plated studs front and back. Too bad for us expectations of what we will receive from Cardone isn’t more predictable
The new Cardone booster has a rubber collar that fits a rubber boot however with the collar on the booster, it doesn’t fit through the firewall. There isn’t anything in the build book regarding this.
The old one did not have this collar or boot however I do not want to assume the OB did those correctly.
This results in the need to enlarge the firewall hole by ~.200”
Do I cut the rubber collar off and turf the boot or enlarge the hole in the firewall?
I enlarged the hole. Made a guide, with the existing hole centre marked, out of a piece of plywood and used the booster mounting holes to bolt it to the front of the foot box. Then used an appropriate size hole saw to cut a hole through the plywood and the foot box front.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
I enlarged the hole. Made a guide, with the existing hole centre marked, out of a piece of plywood and used the booster mounting holes to bolt it to the front of the foot box. Then used an appropriate size hole saw to cut a hole through the plywood and the foot box front.
I enlarged the hole. Made a guide, with the existing hole centre marked, out of a piece of plywood and used the booster mounting holes to bolt it to the front of the foot box. Then used an appropriate size hole saw to cut a hole through the plywood and the foot box front.
Norm
Did you use a gasket or anything for sealing/vibration dampening or just booster on the wall?
There is a spacer between the booster and the foot box front but, no gasket. I cut the hole in the spacer I made so that the rubber boot over the booster sealed against it.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
Sorry in advance for the less-than-clear image.
Hoping someone might chime in if this looks kosher?
I can’t confirm with any witness marking inside the flared brass fitting that this FFR supplied brass fitting is actually seating on the inverted flare between the brass and steel fittings that came in the rear FFR conversion kit. It really looks like it’s seating on the shoulder just near the end of the male threads.
I sent this picture to FFR tech support who suggested it looks fine. I’m just used to seeing a thread or two left over with these types of connections.
Short of filling and bleeding the line to see if it leaks, anyone have experience with these fittings from this kit and if so is this a normal fitup? IMG_1682.jpeg
Does not look promising. You could pressurize with compressed air, then do a leak test at the joint using soapy liquid.
Mk.4 FFR supplied Right hand drive
Received 12/2012 completed 12/2019
Gen1 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS
Lots of mods to make compliant for Australian design rules
Yup the kit fittings leaked upon p-testing them. Ran to the local auto parts store and grabbed another one. Fixed the issue.
The FFR brass fitting I don’t believe was even close to seating. Note how much shorter the fitting on the left was from the kit.
Kit was also missing the banjo bolts and washers.
Anyone happen to know if there is a compatible rotor dust shield for the FFR Rear Disc Conversion Kit?
Kit didn’t come with any and I would like to install them.
Doc, if you got the conversion axles that maintain the 87-93 rear end width then, I don’t believe there’s a dust shield available. The offset in the calliper mounting bracket shows you how far inward these axles move the brake rotors.
I know for certain the stock dust shield for a 95 Mustang does not work. Have been running around for 10 years without any and don’t miss them at all.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
What is allowable runout on the Mk4 rear discs before a guy should expect vibrations?
I ask because the Moser Axle they sent as a replacement to a manufacturing defect at Christmas, has a runout of .0035” on the axle face which is equating to ~.007” on the 11.65” rear disc rotor..
I noticed this when turning the rotor by hand and the “dragging” noise on one side was inconsistent.
I did try re-clocking the rotor in all 5 lug positions which did nothing. I also swapped rotors each side while measure their runouts as well.
It’s in the axles face.
Placed a dial indicator on the axle bearing surface which showed it’s running true and the discrepancy is in the axle face.
Studs were “pulled” into place with a wrench, hardened washers and nut. Didn’t use an impact, press or hammer. I know it’s not from that process.
Sure a lot of issues seem guys run into routing the e-brake lines. I tried behind the shock which left them too short. I had to settle on slipping them between the shock and shock mount. On the passenger side I ran it through the banana bracket.
Is this kosher?
I can’t see a better way.
Any feedback is appreciated
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Originally Posted by Doc76
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