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Senior Member
Front Suspension Questions
I am curious on a couple of items and hoping the group can help me out.
My first question is on shocks. I understand that the red bodied or single adjustable shocks can be mounted in any orientation but I see the majority mounted with the shock body up rather than down. Is there a specific reason for this or just personal personal preference?
Second question is on the upper A arms. Is it generally considered good practice to shorten the trailing adjustment sleeve whether you can meet the preferred installation measurement or not? I see some do it automatically and others don't mention it. I do have power steering.
Thanks in advance.
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Senior Member

Originally Posted by
GoDadGo
Regarding the
RED SHOCKS, I can't answer the question but mine are oriented in the same way as in the assembly video shown below:
https://youtu.be/oBJ5dKLrhoU?list=PL...VS-CVcPoK4x6lB
Regarding the
UPPER A ARMS, if you are running power steering most need to be trimmed so that you can run the
Maximum Caster Angle.
Since I'm
not running power steering, my upper control arm threads were
not shortened and the car drives very well and my front wheels are very centered. I did shorten the rear control arms (3-Link) to center the rear wheels and to improve on my pinion angle. Since my driveshaft is a custom piece, which is longer than the stock unit, I figured why not make the car look as proper as possible since it was going to bug me. I guess I'm a bit OCD about certain stuff since I'm a very visual fellow and stuff that catches my eye often bugs me.
Good Luck & I Hope This Helped!
Thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to provide the link.
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I had to shorten the sleeve on my build to get the correct measurement for alignment.
Coupe Complete Kit - Ordered 7/8/24 - Received 10/13/24
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Originally Posted by
Dmac800
I had to shorten the sleeve on my build to get the correct measurement for alignment.
x2...I set rough alignment dimensions last night. Not trimming the sleeves would have left no wiggle room for the shop alignment. I used a table saw with an aluminum blade to get a nice square cut on the aluminum portion of the sleeves.
Jen
MK4 complete kit, IRS, 347 stroker (carb), TKX, PS, heater-defroster-wipers, firewall forward, 11.65 rear brakes, 17" Halibrands, #11124.
Ordered: 9.8.2024
Delivered: 10.31.2024
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Senior Member
Thanks guys, sounds like it's something that makes sense. It's easy to do now so to the bandsaw I go!
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Senior Member
Strange, i didn't have to cut any sleeves on both my MK4 and coupe builds. Not sure I understand what's going on here....
Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21, CA SB100 Registered 8/27/24 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering.
Album Here
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Senior Member

Originally Posted by
lewma
Strange, i didn't have to cut any sleeves on both my MK4 and coupe builds. Not sure I understand what's going on here....
This response (thank you) is exactly why I asked the question. It seems like the need is hit or miss but that shouldn't really be the case (at least I wouldn't think so). Some builders do it right out of the gate and others skip it altogether. I am pretty certain my A arms are measured to the correct length and I still have a turn or two of threads left. Going to double and triple check all of this again.
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Senior Member

Originally Posted by
PNWTim
This response (thank you) is exactly why I asked the question. It seems like the need is hit or miss but that shouldn't really be the case (at least I wouldn't think so). Some builders do it right out of the gate and others skip it altogether. I am pretty certain my A arms are measured to the correct length and I still have a turn or two of threads left. Going to double and triple check all of this again.
perhaps a vendor change somewhere along the line yielded slightly longer sleeves ?
Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21, CA SB100 Registered 8/27/24 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering.
Album Here
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Senior Member
It's a mixed bag. 100% related to power steering and the increased caster that can be dialed in. Resulting in sometimes the adjusters need to be shorter. I didn't trim them on my 20th Anniversary Roadster with PS, and I was able to get the alignment OK. Probably just lucky. I also didn't adjust on my Gen3 Coupe, and also was able to get the required settings. Made me wonder if FF has somehow taken this into account on the newer Gen 3 Coupe frame? Maybe also the case with the brand new Mk5 Roadster frame? My opinion is it's not hard to take them apart (pretty easy actually) during the alignment and trim if found that it's needed. My opinion is probably influenced by the fact I do my own alignments.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
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Senior Member
I have power steering on both my builds. perhaps I was lucky. Just never heard of this issue before now.
Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21, CA SB100 Registered 8/27/24 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering.
Album Here
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Senior Member

Originally Posted by
edwardb
It's a mixed bag. 100% related to power steering and the increased caster that can be dialed in. Resulting in sometimes the adjusters need to be shorter. I didn't trim them on my 20th Anniversary Roadster with PS, and I was able to get the alignment OK. Probably just lucky. I also didn't adjust on my Gen3 Coupe, and also was able to get the required settings. Made me wonder if FF has somehow taken this into account on the newer Gen 3 Coupe frame? Maybe also the case with the brand new Mk5 Roadster frame? My opinion is it's not hard to take them apart (pretty easy actually) during the alignment and trim if found that it's needed. My opinion is probably influenced by the fact I do my own alignments.
Thanks Paul, that thought actually crossed my mind as well with newer chassis design. I didn't think you had trimmed yours so this is good validation. I have now vacillated from "better just go out and cut them" to "I'm just going to leave them and see where things land". I too am doing my own alignment so will have the time and leisure? to adjust if needed. Thanks for the feedback.
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Senior Member
I trimmed mine before I installed my UCAs, as I was going with power steering and knew there was a good chance they'd need to be cut anyway. It takes 10 minutes, and even if you don't need the extra adjustment, it won't hurt anything to have it shortened.
Greg
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV
Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
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Senior Member

Originally Posted by
gbranham
I trimmed mine before I installed my UCAs, as I was going with power steering and knew there was a good chance they'd need to be cut anyway. It takes 10 minutes, and even if you don't need the extra adjustment, it won't hurt anything to have it shortened.
Greg
Thanks Greg. I think I am going to leave them as is and if it turns out I can't get the caster I need I will but them after the fact. It's pretty ease to remove the two bolts and slide it out.
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Senior Member

Originally Posted by
PNWTim
Thanks Greg. I think I am going to leave them as is and if it turns out I can't get the caster I need I will but them after the fact. It's pretty ease to remove the two bolts and slide it out.
Keep in mind the threaded posts the sleeve threads onto may also need to be trimmed to achieve the desired alignment specs. I trimmed both sleeves and posts.
Last edited by gbranham; 03-05-2025 at 05:54 PM.
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV
Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
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Senior Member

Originally Posted by
Dave Tabor
I did not cut
Thanks for ringing in Dave.
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Here's my alignment numbers - top is after a year or so after the first alignment and bottom is after re-setting it that day - not much change.
These numbers were achieved with no cutting of anything - YMMV...
I have power steering...
Dave
Gen III #17
alignment.jpg
Last edited by Dave Tabor; 03-11-2025 at 11:07 AM.
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Senior Member

Originally Posted by
Dave Tabor
Here's my alignment numbers - top is after a year or so after the first alignment and bottom is after re-setting it that day - not much change.
These numbers were achieved with no cutting of anything - YMMV...
I have power steering...
Dave
Gen III #17
alignment.jpg
Thanks, that's helpful.
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Not sure if the shock question was answered, but to my knowledge only gas shocks can be inverted (or rod down) and the only purpose I've ever heard was to reduce unsprung weight.