GTM Parts List (so far)

[narkosys]

Hey all,

I am still in study mode but have compiled a preliminary list of items I will need for the build. This is a living document as the chances of it changing as I get closer to ordering the kit are pretty good

Any thoughts? Additions? Deletions?

Thanks muchly,

P

Here is the list:


FFr:

GTM complete kit – Canada $17,990
GTM Aluminum Performance Wheels $1,399
GTM Heating/ Air Conditioning Kit $1,350
GTM Car Cover $275
GTM Cold Air Intake Kit $399
Porsche Transaxle adapter kit $599
GTM GenII hood louvers Carbon Fibre
Oil Cooler Kit $375
Catalytic converter pipe heat shield kit $149
GTM Logo floor mats $119
Driver's side seat track kit (if I can't get the power seats tracks from the covette to work) $69
Crate plus crating fee for transport


Chevrolet:

Corvette donor car
Engine: if(donor car) == Z06
then keep(LS6)
else
buy(LS3)
or
buy(LS7)


GWorkz:

Porsche G50/20 6 speed transaxle kit (with LSD) to mount in the GTM


Tires:

BF Goodrich gForce T/A KDW Front: 245/40/18 Rear: 335/30/18


VRaptor Speed Works:

Louvered Belly Pan Center Narrow Panel - $49
Louvered Belly Pan Small Trapezoid - $39
Gen II Diffuser Grille - $79
Diffuser Louvers – $150
Side Scoop Louvers – $126
Custom VRSW Gel-coat Rear Wing – $1,200
Gen II GTM Hinged Rear Wing Mount (For use with VRSW Gel-coat Rear Wing) - $250
VRSW Universal Wing Mount System: Ordered to fit VRSW Custom GTM Gel-Coat Rear Wing – $649
Cable Shifter Mounting Bracket Kit - $33
Custom GTM Hatch Props - $79
GTM Fog Light Mounting Brackets (Pair) - $27
GTM Dead Pedal - $47
Crate Engine ECU Mount Plate - $10
Custom Storage Bin Kit - $169
Vintage Air Heater Control Valve Mounting Bracket - $10
GTM Hood Latch Rub Plates (Pair) - $20
AC “Blower Relocate” Plenum – $45
Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley Support - $17
Stereo Close-out Panel – $36
Billet Aluminum Shift Knobs (fit Brandwood/CableShift: 6 speed) – $42
ISIS GTM 3-Cell Mounting Kit - $30 (if I go with the ISIS system)
“Mike DeGuire” Engine Cover – PrePreg CF $439
Complete Kooks GTM Exhaust System (except LS7)- $2083 ($2233 if LS7)
G50-to-Kooks Mounting Bracket - $10


Myraceshop:

Header Tank Kit $209.54
Heater Bypass Valve Kit $79.76
Alignment shim kit $203.32


Misc:

Skid Kit - Russ Thomson of Norcal-cobras $175
ISIS 3 Cell starter system $1099 }
ISIS iLink control module $179 } Optional
ISIS iReserve $124 }
Daytime running light kit
Third Brake light
Sattelite navigation head unit w/USB integration
Car audio speakers with subwoofer (alreay have the amp and my sub is too big to fit in the car)
Leather and dyes to embelish the interior and seats
Paint job

[VD2021]

Nice list. You can simplify it by saying "Everything".

You'll find that your list will continue to change throughout the build and likely even after you've "~finished~", but you're definitely on the right track.

Vendors and skilled builders will create a new product/item that you can't go without or you'll decide to change something because of new/current information.

IMO the most important/critical thing you can do now is read every thread that has anything to do with the build and build issues. There are items that are critical to correct. Some are critical and others will save you many, many hours of frustration, time and money.

I prefer this forum, however it does not contain the years of valuable information listed on the ffcars forum. The $64K question sticky hits many of the items.

[RF RIDER]

Where are you located in Canada? Are you in Ontario?

[narkosys]

I am in Kelowna, BC

I have also remembered to add a Brandwood cable shifter,Lotus LED tail lights and a SpeedHut metric gauge cluster to the list ;P

Vidal: I am still going through the 64k forum post. There is a lot of good information there. I will be going over the build forums several times before, during and after my build.

Looking forward to driving my GTM through town and laughing at the Lambos out here

P

[RF RIDER]

Hey P;
The speedhut gauges come with the kit. What I did was contacted Speedhut and sent them my speedo and tach. They changed the speedo gauge face to KM/H and I had the signals and high beam lights intigrated into the tach face. Also add to your list - side marker lights. Not sure if you know, but very few have made the doors lock. I am adding door poppers which means I am shaving the handles off. Add to list if you want - Door poppers.

[Edgeman]

Don't forget the extra parts that are exempt from the kit into Canada. Whitby Motors has the second part of the kit that you will need. Shocks, brake lines, steering rack just to name afew of the items.
Read as much as you can and read over some build sites.

[narkosys]

That is very good information to know. I will check with SpeedHut to see if they can have my gauges set with a white face while they have them. Also want to pick up a voltage gauge from them. I like the idea of integrating the turn signals and high beams into the RPM gauge. I was thinking of fabricating some for the dashboard.

I will look at Whitby's page to have a look see at the parts.

Thank you all very much,

P

[RF RIDER]

Send me your e-mail and I can forward the complete list of omitted parts from whitby. Jeff (owner) sent me the list with each item priced out separately. I did not buy all from him. I ordered as I needed the parts and picked up most of the brake lines/fittings/fuel hoses from local parts store. Basically its the $2000 of missing parts (hense the 2000 difference in kit price). When you order your kit, order the parts from Jeff at the same time, as most of the parts that Jeff supplies you need at the beginning of the build.

[narkosys]

Just ordered the digital copy of the build manual. Later on I will get the dead tree version so that I can make some notes and look it over with my dad as I am sure he would love to help.

P

[narkosys]

I have a question for the more seasoned petrol heads in the forum.

Budget wise I think i will give the LS7 a miss as I could use some of that money for upgraded brakes and a few other things. If I need to purchase a crate engine I am considering either the E-Rod LS3, the LS376/480 or the new LS 376/525 (525 hp right out of the crate). Any opinions on the matter? What mods will I have to perform to get it to fit in the car? What are the advantages of the different engines (price wise they are very close and vary by just a few hundred dollars). Shane: will the Kooks exhaust system fit? What if I want to add A/C and power steering? Which harness do i use?

I know that this is a lot of questions but I might as well ask them now rather than while I am building the car

P

[VD2021]

I have a question for the more seasoned petrol heads in the forum.

Budget wise I think i will give the LS7 a miss as I could use some of that money for upgraded brakes and a few other things. If I need to purchase a crate engine I am considering either the E-Rod LS3, the LS376/480 or the new LS 376/525 (525 hp right out of the crate). Any opinions on the matter? What mods will I have to perform to get it to fit in the car? What are the advantages of the different engines (price wise they are very close and vary by just a few hundred dollars). Shane: will the Kooks exhaust system fit? What if I want to add A/C and power steering? Which harness do i use?

I know that this is a lot of questions but I might as well ask them now rather than while I am building the car

P

Here's a link that may offer some help. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-fact...ce-street.html

If you go with a crate engine you'll have to use the Trinary swt included with the VA and you'll lose the majority of the system functions performed by the PCM that protect and allow the compressor to function as it was designed.

If you're going with the MR2 Spider PS pump it is independent of the engine so your selection will not affect it.

[Kalstar]

The 376/525 has quite the lobe to it, if your looking for more exotic and less musle car sounds, the 376/480 would be slightly better. if you don't mind installing your own bump stick then stealth and power are only a few phone calls away. Btw, read pasted post below.


From LS1tech............
GM High tech tested 10 different cams including the stock LS3 cam w/ LSA fom the stock 117.5 to 111.6 from comp cams and overlap of -12 stock to 12.1 on Lunati cam, the highest HP cam was the Livernois L92.

The cam that impressed me the most and thought it may be similar specs to their Stealth cam was a Lingenfelter Cam

PN:
GT11 L210065297

LSA 117.3

INT @ 50 215
INT valve Lift 0.628
EXH @ 50 232
Exh valve lift 0.641
Ovelap -11.0



Map@idle 37

base hp 483
after cam 533

base tq 471
after cam 493

I was thinking w/ the near stock LSA and Overlap but high valve lift the cam should sound nice and deliver good street driving manners.

[hrosenthal]

Hey, I love the if, then, else statement. I assume that you, like me, are also a programmer.
You don't have to buy the dead tree manual, you can make your own by printing at home or sending to an office services store like Kinkos/Fedex.

[narkosys]

Good information so far. More to read

I used to be a programmer but that was last century. As much as I still like designing and building networks, babysitting PEBKACs can drive one to be homicidal .

When I read the digital version some things, such as missing 2/3s of the index, made me wonder what else has been removed which is why I want the dead tree version also.

P

[crash]

I am testing a cam that built 560 HP on a stock LS3 crate engine right now. www.myraceshop.com may have this cam available for purchase in the near future. This was with stock intake, cast iron crate exhaust manifolds, etc. Nothing changed except the cam and pushrods.Heads never even came off the bottom end. It has been engine dynoed, but I must track test it first before release.

Point I am making is that there are better cams out there, and you probably get the best bang for the buck by ordering the base 420/420 LS3 and then modifying with a cam. That's what I did, and have PLENTY of power.

[Kempo]

I am testing a cam that built 560 HP on a stock LS3 crate engine right now. www.myraceshop.com may have this cam available for purchase in the near future. This was with stock intake, cast iron crate exhaust manifolds, etc. Nothing changed except the cam and pushrods.Heads never even came off the bottom end. It has been engine dynoed, but I must track test it first before release.

Point I am making is that there are better cams out there, and you probably get the best bang for the buck by ordering the base 420/420 LS3 and then modifying with a cam. That's what I did, and have PLENTY of power.

Interesting, How is the idle with this cam? Do you have a dyno sheet that can illustrate how wide or narrow the power band is with this cam? I know that if you plan on using this cam it must be a reliable one since your build is an endurance racing oriented one. Keep us posted.

[crash]

This is not a terribly aggressive cam. The build specs were for maximum area under the torque curve, a 2500-6500 rpm range, and fuel milage. All I can say further at this time is that we far exceeded our goals.

[RF RIDER]

To save yourself some money, on the "other" forum, some builders post items for sale. Right now there are two guys selling the black koni's which is omitted from the canadian kit and you can only order from whitby (other then FF5). Plus you will save a lot of money.

just a thougtht to pass on to help.

[narkosys]

More questions. This time tires. for the Canadian builders: is it cheaper to get the set from FFr? or a Custom set elsewhere? If so which brands do you recommend? Would the 335/30R18s in the back be too large for a car that will be strictly street use and daily driver? What would the differences be between 18 and 19 inch rims (handling, comfort, etc)? And if I decide to go with the 19s what would be the recommended sizes?

I am debating between ordering the FFr rims, which I like, and them powder coating them or getting a custom set of black rims. I figure that the cost of the FFr rims, S&H, duties and powder coating will run me about $2500 or so.

Thank you

P