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It seems like the Subaru 'safety ring' really works. In your rollover pics you can see both the front and rear of the roof are crushed in, but the center held, preventing further roof collapse. Well built cars.
Well I am getting closer. Just a few more hoses and wires to hook up. Next I'll install the clutch and flywheel. I am waiting on my trans to come back from a rebuild.
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Sweet!!!!!!!!!!!
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34 5 window coupe Ford
2003 Mustang GT
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85 Goldwing
All toys still in the Scuderia!
Every Saint has a past..................every sinner a future
Don't take yourself so seriously........no one else does.
You never see a motorcycle parked outside a Psychiatrists office.
All the videos in one. Total elapsed time (not counting cutting off the roof, the doors, or interior, which didn't get caught on video) was about 16 hours.
https://vimeo.com/46070474
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Nice vid!
Can't wait to see what you will come up with when you build your 818!!!
I love the time lapse video of the tear down.
My 04 STi rear endlinks are bent. My car is still driveable so I'm going to replace them. Should I just buy OEM replacements for ~$60 or get TurnInConcepts replacements for ~$115. I'm thinking the TIC ones so I don't have to worry about them bending again everytime I jack up my car.
that sure is a nice looking engine you got. did you get the entire heads colored or just the valve covers? I was thinking of doing the same thing myself. never done it before though. what did you do to get it done? powder coat or that engine paint they sell at like autozone?
I just used high temp engine paint on the manifold and valve covers. I used Eastwood paint products on the rest and chassis parts.
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How do you bend endlikes jacking up the car? I've never run into that problem.
Edit: I guess I'd have to add that I've had billet whiteline end links since day one..
Last edited by bugeye_fever; 07-27-2012 at 09:32 AM.
If anyone is getting rid of the P/S on their WRX NAPA part # 050264SF works fine for just the Alt in this application. Be warned they don't give them away. $45.
Thanks for the responses on endlinks. A common problem on the 04 STI and maybe other years is the sway bar flipping. It can occur if you jack up your car and set it down wrong or just flip on it's on while driving. Not sure how mine got bent. Since I plan to drive the car for the next year or two, I'm gonna get a set of TIC links. They are a little longer than OEM so they're supposed to prevent the rear swaybar from flipping.
True. It was very funny! But I was impressed because it seems like you were incredibly organized in the way you did the task. Thanks for sharing! WEK.
FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046
You're the second person to say that. I actually had to wikipedia/youtube it to find out what it was. Guess I'm not old enough.
It was somewhat organized though it was messier in person. The trays my wife gets from the hospital sure help. Makes it easy to pick parts off, dump them in groups, and then take care of them later.
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Just assembled the new engine stand today
does everyone use straps through the intake runners to lift the motor? (I did when I pulled the engine and transaxle)
I'm used to motors that have dedicated pulling brackets/loops
Next week pull some parts to powder coat and removing the PS pump and AC compressor, modifying the brackets
I'm planing on pulling my motor this week. What's the best way to do this. Out the top, the bottom,with or with out the tranny. When I'm done I need to leave a rolling chassis so I can't just hack it up.. Also I'm looking into a rebuild? Anybody reputable in the Northeast United States.
The "official" lift points are a stamped steel ring on the passenger rear (opposite the starter) and the steel air-conditioning/alternator bracket at the front.
I've used the intake many times without problems. You can also use the water crossover pipe if the manifold is off.
I use the stamped steel bracket that supports the intercooler and the aluminum bracket that supports the AC/alternator.
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Well I finished reconditioning my LR wheel/Hub assembly today. New brakes, rotor, wheel bearing and seals. I painted every thing after blasting it clean. I also installed my alt belt sans A/C and P/S. Not too much left to do till trans comes back. Does anyone know what axle they are using in the back. My trans has female CV and I am wondering what the go cart used.
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i will be posting my motor next week, looking good bro
Two quick questions. Am I correct in seeing thats there's only one big whole car harness and not a separate one for the engine? And if so are they year/ model specific?
There is three harnesses, engine loom harness, engine bay harness and under dash harness.
You should try to match them up, but they can be used together with some slight reworking 02-07 wrx/sti
The motors changed location, type, and number of sensors over the years. The engine harness to chassis harness connectors also changed. Easiest bet is to match up the motor year with the harness year.
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This is my favorite 818 thread so far. I love seeing all of the nuts and bolts coming together, especially because the car hasn't even been revealed yet.
Ok maybe I should rephrase this... By engine harness I mean more than just the part that's on the motor. I also ment the wiring that goes to the ecu, and other sensors/controls not directly mounted on the engine. Like voltage sensor,boost controller,ect..... The wires come off the ecu go up behind the heater box. Then Appears to branch off and go deeper into the dash and some split out of the loom out to engine bay. So one whole car harness? And not a separate engine system? And they are year specific?
Last edited by Samiam1017; 08-07-2012 at 08:37 PM.
The whole car harness. It comes out in sections, start to take it apart and you will see. Yes they have changed a bit over the years. You need all the wiring off a wrx to use the turbo engine. Example: a 06-07 complete car harness( engine bay, engine loom, under dash, and rear section) and a motor and ecu to match those years, or some modification will be needed. My example: I have a 02-03 wrx complete car wiring set up, but I am using a 06-07 jdm sti engine. I am going to have to use the TGV wires to run my AVCS. The good thing about my jdm engine is that it has no TGV's like USDM cars, so I can use those wires to run the aka varable valve timing (Subaru Avcs). The boost controller is on the intake
06 and 07 changed engine harnesses. Both cars have the airpump. 06 can ditch the airpump and all valves and associated wiring. 07 needs to retain part of one of the valves as it contains a secondary air pressure sensor that is not found on the 06.
To make life easy, match the year of the motor with the year of the harness. Even the ECU plugs changed slightly from year to year.
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The harness runs in weird locations, I'm guessing due to being both LHD and RHD configurations. I think that you end up with 4 or 5 sections, and it depends what you mean by sections. I "expanded" the holes through the side of the fender well and under the dash to make it easier to drag the harness through. Any excuse to attack with a saws all you know! The "antenna wire" wraps around the whole car!
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...p-removal.html
best one i could find
That's only a partial removal.
They left both valves in place (or in the case of the 07 sti, there is only 1 valve, but they left it in), and left the hard airline connected to the passenger side head (probably because you can't remove it with the stock uppipe in place). That's another several pounds of stuff (and clutter).
from one thread (regarding 07+ cars, not 06).
Big long tech discussion:am 100% sure about the Baro sensor. You can turn the codes off to keep them from throwing a CEL. But the sub-routines within the ecu remain active. You can however delete the air pump and all associated hardare (and codes) expect for the actuator it self. That's what has the baro sensor in it. Without it the ecu has no reference to actually atmospheric pressure once the engine is running. I learned this from experience on an 07 Sti. We eliminated the whole system. I had tuning issues. Then we found out that the actuator has the sensor in it. We simply put the actuator back and hooked up electrically. And vuala! Happy ecu again.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ighlight=valve
One variation of the entire system (my 06 was a little different).
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so, let me see if i've got it:
the 07's need to retain the drivers side sensor on egr valve, but still need associated codes turned off...
the 06 wrx can have all hardware removed and associated codes turned off...
<06 don't have airpumps...
?right?
the egr valve is part of this system and can be removed?
Last edited by apexanimal; 08-09-2012 at 07:36 PM.