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Super Moderator
Coyote electronics mods
Here's what I have found out so far about the 3 major drive-ability issues:
Almost everyone has experienced off-throttle stalling, a pretty big 2500 RPM flat spot, and severe backfiring. Ford recommends their part number M-4209ADPT-A, which they refer to as a Speed Dial Adapter. Its original function is to adjust for rear gear or tire size changes, but in our application it is just an on-off switch that tells the ECU when the car is moving. FFR has known about this for quite a while but for some reason neglected to share the info. Several of us have gotten the heads-up from Ford independently. The members who have installed the device claim it fixes the stalling problem and the dead spot problem.
Installing the adapter requires breaking in to the ECU harness at the smallest of the 3 plugs. Two wires have to be added and the necessary pins do not come with the adapter. Ford will send you some as long as their supply holds out, but I'm looking for more (TYCO/AMP). The instructions show the plug having a white face, but in my harness it is red. The locations of the used/empty pin positions jive with the schematic, but the wire colors do not. In any case, here is the link for the install instructions for the adapter as well as a set of alternate instructions found on another forum.
http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conten...tructions1.pdf
Additional link to be added
There is no need to calibrate the adapter since the unit only acts as an indicator of vehicle movement, it does not feed speed data to the ECU. The leads from the trans mounted speed sensor are polarity sensitive, so a trial and error might be required. I am NOT attempting to drive both the speedometer and adapter with one sender, although I have been told it can be done. I am converting my Speedhut speedo to GPS.
"Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".
Mark Twain
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Administrator
Joe,
Linky no worky.
Henry
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Super Moderator
"Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".
Mark Twain
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Member
After installing the speed dial, the stalling problem when I approached a stop is corrected. I talked with Ford Racing and they confirmed the ECU just wants to know if the vehicle is moving; it doesn't care how fast. Still, the speed is read by the ECU. As a matter of curiosity, I lifted the car and let it idle in gear and noted that the speedometer was registering a speed 3 times that of the ECU (with the speed dial calibrated at 1.11 per Jesper's instructions). I changed the calibration to 3.33 and now the ECU reads the same as the speedometer.
I don't expect that to make any difference since Ford confirmed it dosen't care about the speed but I like to tinker with things anyway.
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Super Moderator
How are you reading the ECU speed?
"Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".
Mark Twain
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Thanks for the info. Did you have any luck finding pins?
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If i get the 33 hot rod kit, do I need a wiring harness? My plan is to go with the coyote engine, will I need a mustang harness to hook it all up? I want an automatic transmission, any thoughts on which one will fit with no modifications? Thank You. I do not know how to post a new topic, so Im asking this here. No one is answering elswhere.
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Senior Member
Thanks for the update on this issue. Just getting ready to do the electronics on the Coyote in the MK4 and went out to try and order the recommended part (M-4209ADPT-A) but am only finding that is no longer available. Summit recommends a replacement part... does anyone know if that will work or where I can buy the M-4209ADPT-A?
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Senior Member
Okay, found the part online, but not from Ford. Do you have a number I can call to find the pins that you mention? You can direct message me if tha is a better way to communicate that info. Thanks
Originally Posted by
oldguy668
Here's what I have found out so far about the 3 major drive-ability issues:
Two wires have to be added and the necessary pins do not come with the adapter. Ford will send you some as long as their supply holds out, but I'm looking for more (TYCO/AMP).
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Super Moderator
I have not been able to locate the pins on Tyco's website, but they are very similar to several standard pins. However, the folks at SCT tell me that their subsidiary, JMS Chip in Mississippi has a tune file that fixes the stall without the Ford patch. It also addresses the backfiring and rich mixture. I have ordered the tuner and file from them so I can report back in about a week, after I get it installed.
"Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".
Mark Twain
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Mustang Convert
Maybe JMS can put some of that lopey idle into the tune while they are at it. The Boss 302 with the track key tune has it and it sounds incredible (even with stock exhaust)...
Originally Posted by
oldguy668
I have not been able to locate the pins on Tyco's website, but they are very similar to several standard pins. However, the folks at SCT tell me that their subsidiary, JMS Chip in Mississippi has a tune file that fixes the stall without the Ford patch. It also addresses the backfiring and rich mixture. I have ordered the tuner and file from them so I can report back in about a week, after I get it installed.
MKIV, IRS/TruTrack/3.55s, Coyote, TKO600, Wilwoods
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Senior Member
If this works, would that mean we DON'T need the SPEED DIAL ADAPTOR? Sorry, I'm not sure I'm following all of this...
Originally Posted by
oldguy668
I have not been able to locate the pins on Tyco's website, but they are very similar to several standard pins. However, the folks at SCT tell me that their subsidiary, JMS Chip in Mississippi has a tune file that fixes the stall without the Ford patch. It also addresses the backfiring and rich mixture. I have ordered the tuner and file from them so I can report back in about a week, after I get it installed.
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Super Moderator
IF what JMS and SCT told me is accurate, we won't need the speed dial adapter.
"Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".
Mark Twain
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I found the speed dial adapter at american muscle. I am going to check the local ford dealer and see if they have some patch wires they could get me. If not I suspect I will get some wires from a junk yard.
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Senior Member
Thanks... I look forward to hearing the outcome of the advice from JMS and SCT
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Senior Member
A good friend of mine is the parts manager for the local ford dealer. What should I be asking him for with regard to the patch wires or pins that are needed with the speed dial adapter. Being a friend, I suspect he'd be more willing to do the research to find what we need. If he can get them, I can get as many as possible so I can share with others. Just need to know what i'm asking for!
Originally Posted by
akpingel
I found the speed dial adapter at american muscle. I am going to check the local ford dealer and see if they have some patch wires they could get me. If not I suspect I will get some wires from a junk yard.
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Super Moderator
You don't need special wires. You do need the pins, but I have not found an exact match on Tyco's overly-complex website. Tyco makes the connector and the pins, but it's a tedious job finding anything. It is remotely possible that Ford would make the pins available to service techs in case one gets bent or damaged, but more likely they'd make the customer buy a complete harness. .
"Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".
Mark Twain
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Thanks for the lead on Tyco. I have emailed Tyco's tech support to see if they can help find the right pins. I will keep everyone posted if I find anything out.
EDIT: the pin part number is p/n 1393366-1 for Tin and p/n 1393366-2 for silver. I cannot order from Tyco, but it appears as if they may send me a sample. I will let everyone know if they arrive.
Last edited by akpingel; 10-09-2012 at 10:58 AM.
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Super Moderator
They are .13 each at Mouser electronics, with no minimum, but keep in mind that if you get the pins and go through all the agravation of installing them, you will only cure the stalling problem, not the rich running or backfiring or jerky throttle pedal. If you wait until I get the tuner and tune file from SCT, I can tell you if you need the speed dial thingy at all. There's no point in buying something for $150 (which might not be available in a couple of years anyway) if you need the $550 tuner and file to fix the other issues.
"Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".
Mark Twain
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
oldguy668
IF what JMS and SCT told me is accurate, we won't need the speed dial adapter.
I too read that JMS has the cure on a modular forum. In the mean time, you can give Brooks Speed a call and pick their brain if you want. They said they've successfully tuned numerous Ford Racing Controls Packs w/o issues. Just a thought.
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Originally Posted by
oldguy668
They are .13 each at Mouser electronics, with no minimum, but keep in mind that if you get the pins and go through all the agravation of installing them, you will only cure the stalling problem, not the rich running or backfiring or jerky throttle pedal. If you wait until I get the tuner and tune file from SCT, I can tell you if you need the speed dial thingy at all. There's no point in buying something for $150 (which might not be available in a couple of years anyway) if you need the $550 tuner and file to fix the other issues.
Thanks, I look forward to hearing how the tune goes.
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We installed speed dials on two Coyote motors and it dramatically improved our performance. Ford Racing sent us the pins. The backfiring is completely gone, the stalling has stopped and the throttle response is much better. We are in go-kart stage so we have not driven the cars too far, but the neighborhood drives are much better with the speed dials. We have been following Old Guy throughout our builds, so I owe him a big thanks for sharing learnings along the way!
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Senior Member
Any luck with the tuner and tune file?
Originally Posted by
oldguy668
They are .13 each at Mouser electronics, with no minimum, but keep in mind that if you get the pins and go through all the agravation of installing them, you will only cure the stalling problem, not the rich running or backfiring or jerky throttle pedal. If you wait until I get the tuner and tune file from SCT, I can tell you if you need the speed dial thingy at all. There's no point in buying something for $150 (which might not be available in a couple of years anyway) if you need the $550 tuner and file to fix the other issues.
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Super Moderator
Sorry about the lack of news, but between work and crappy weather, I have not been able to do a road test. SCT sent 3 tune files in the tuner tool, and i am starting with the "Safe" tune and I'll work up to the "Max HP" file.
"Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".
Mark Twain
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Senior Member
Thanks for the update. I understand the competing priorities! I look forward to hearing how it goes.
Originally Posted by
oldguy668
Sorry about the lack of news, but between work and crappy weather, I have not been able to do a road test. SCT sent 3 tune files in the tuner tool, and i am starting with the "Safe" tune and I'll work up to the "Max HP" file.
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Super Moderator
I finally got a chance to do a proper road test this afternoon. Really nice cruising weather! Anyway, my SCT3000 tuning tool showed up a few days ago and I discovered that the "Coyote Swap Tune File" that it come pre-loaded with actually is 3 files. They were labeled as "Safe", "Mid Power" and "Max Power". I resisted the temptation to go all in and loaded the "Safe" file, which took about 15 minutes to suck out the stock tune and push in the SCT file. It fired right up and drove pretty much the same as before with the exception of the backfiring, which was greatly reduced but not gone altogether. The stalling problem, however, was still there, as well as a slightly rich smell at low speeds. I pulled over into parking lot and swapped for the "Max" tune, which seemed to take less time than the initial upload. This tune seemed to make a much bigger difference in driveability. The backfiring was totally gone, the rich smell is gone, and I did not get any stalling. The stalling seems to have been controlled by adding a high-idle at around 1100 RPM, and then letting it gradually reduce to 850. Since the ECU has no way of knowing whether the car is moving, I guess that's the only way to do it, but it does work. So, the bottom line is that I'm happy with the results, and if you do buy the SCT, get it from the guys at JMS Chip (ask for Monty). They are the Coyote gurus at this point. Once you get the tool, go right to the MAX POWER file but keep in mind you'll need 93 octane fuel.
"Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".
Mark Twain
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Blue Oval Scribe
Glad to hear JMS/SCT's gear got you fixed up Joe! Who runs a "safe" tune anyway! LOL
Mark
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