Simplifying the EJ

[longislandwrx]

Looking at the EJ motor can be intimidating so I wanted to start a thread about what can go in the trash to make the motor easier to work on, and what can be done clean it up quite a bit.

These are just a few of the things I will be doing personally, and is by no means complete and or necessary. I'll just touch on everything briefly and we can discuss any of them in other threads if necessary.



Emissions Equipment

The motor has several fuel emissions componants mounted to the engine. Connected to the turbo inlet/intake manifold/hose that runs to the back of the car is the Evap diaphragm and valving. Its job is to burn fumes that would otherwise escape from the fuel tank. It is used with a charcoal canister at the rear of the vehicle. since the 818 utilizes a different fuel tank and most likely a vented gas cap this entire system is unnecessary and can be removed.

EvapPurgeSolenoid2.jpgpcv0yp.gif

remove this, cap off the nipple on the turbo inlet and use a cap to close the tube on the intake manifold (also a easy place to hook up a boost gauge) You will have to turn off evap codes with your tuning software

TGVs! the tumbler valves on the car are bulky restrictive and heavy. People argue that they help with cold starts but really their main purpose is cold start emissions. Removing them saves a ton of weight, and the accompanying motors/wiring/vent tube really cleans up the top of the motor. Its also good for about 8-15hp depending on who you talk to. This is an easy and pretty much free mod anyone can do at home with a drill and a tap, a few bolts and some grinding equipment. It is well documented.

ditch this

P7240006.jpg

for this

IMG_7976.jpg

Air Pump

The 06 and up have an air pump that feeds air to the heads to improve emissions. the system is hideous and heavy at about 10lbs. The who assembly and wiring can be removed. You'll have to remove some codes with your tuning software and purchase some block-off plates $30-$80. But the difference is huge.


Engine Venting

There is a mess of hoses that accomplishes the venting of both heads, and the crankcase. These hoses travel around the engine bay in a series of rubber hose and hard pipes. The problem this presents is that it forces your engine to suck up and try and burn a ton of oil. leading to messy intercoolers, and lower octane ratings. the system also includes a pcv functionality sensor, which is typically bypassed (by closing the circuit in the harness and removing the sensor, and plugging the extra nipples). You can go a step farther and remove the wiring altogether from the harness. Don't remove the PCV itself, just the monitor, it limits the vacuum flow that the crankcase receives. Removing it altogether may cause problems. If doing this mod though its a great time to clean your PCV with solvent so make sure it moves freely.

pcv connection sensor.JPG

As far as what to do with the venting, a good quality catch can or air oil separator should be utilized to capture the oil from the intake system, and in the case of the aos, return it to the crankcase.

a few plastic elbows tees and careful hose routing can really clean up the venting system

not the cleanest aos install, but you can see what is happening here

IMG_3329.jpg

AC and PS removal

Removing ac and power steering will make a big difference in the front of the motor as to how much room you have, and you'll also be able to remove the wiring from both (not sure if all power steering pumps have a pressure switch. The factory bracket for the alternator and ac is massive, luckily you can use a alternator bracket for the 2.5RS with no factory AC which is a fraction of the size. Subaru P/N: 11711AA051, they are like $25 or less from the dealer . The item is shown in my post cool parts thread as well.

Throttle Body

See my blog post on this one, the factory throttle body has a coolant passage to keep the throttle and IAC from icing up.. many people just remove the hoses from both ends and connect them with a nipple. Pretty sure you can remove these hoses altogether but I will verify. You can go the extra mile and remove the nipples from the TB and even machine the passages all together if you want to really trim it down. Cooler air is always better so running it through a hot throttle body makes little sense.

untitled.png

Fuel system

the fuel system on the wrx is pretty visually complex when you look at it, it's also run in series meaning certain cylinders run the risk of getting less fuel. Aftermarket fuel rails, while not a necessity until about 400 whp really clean up the look of the fuel system and let you ditch the spider under the manifold. They also eliminate having lean cylinders. Ditching the green brackets of death, designed to protect the injectors in a front end crash, make the injectors a lot easier to get to.

trash these before you lose your fingers

IMG_4925.jpg


replace this:

DSC00231.jpg

with something like this:

2332-44934-l.jpg


I may be missing a few but that's a start.

[Mechie3]

Only your last pic shows up. The others all say invalid attachment. Good idea for a thread though.

[flytosail]

As a novice car guy, thank for posting this. Only suggestion is place it in your blog so that it does not get lost in the fourm.

[Rasmus]

Nice write up Longislandwrx. Get those photos fixed.

[Mechie3]

Photos show up on my phone.

[longislandwrx]

Yup Fixed.

[rjh2pd]

Thanks!! there was a post on nasioc about the coolant lines to the throttle body and it shows a decent drop in intake temperature by removing the coolant lines.

[Turboguy]

Great tips, man! All pics are showing up here on my Chrome-equipped machine.

[Rasmus]

Green Brackets of Death and hardware weight from a 2004 WRX. Whopping 2.130 kg. Yes, I tared out the old sign on which the GBoD sit.


Unused cruise control throttle cable cam, the coolant passages and brass fitting on the throttle body. Started at 1063 grams.

Ended up at 930 grams. A savings of 133 grams (0.29 lb).


The intake manifold wiring harness. 1059 grams.


Deleted all TGV, EVAP wires, and PCV detection wires from the harness. I still run the PCV. Reduced to 815 grams. I found an additional 10 grams after the photo. Coppers heavy. I never suspected I'd remove 244 grams from the harness. Additional photo 01, photo 02, and photo 03.


The hardware from just one side of the Tumble Generator Valve system weighs in at 311 grams. So for the both that comes to 622 grams (1.37 lb) if you just delete the TGV hardware.

[Rasmus]

EVAP system. Including everything but the hard line that runs over the top of the fuel tank. 4.080 kg!


Yes that 4.080 includes the hard line that runs from the engine to the rear.

Altogether this would remove 7.209 kg from the car.

[longislandwrx]

Thanks Rasmus for more awesome pics and specs. I had no idea the gbod were that heavy almost 5 lbs!. I also updated the original post if I was not clear... don't remove the PCV itself, just the monitor. it limits the vacuum flow that the crankcase receives. Removing it may cause problems.

[John Phillips]

This is a wonderful thread, thanks for the massive dose of info we WILL USE. I'm on for delivery next year, and haven't started full-immersion into Subie lore yet. This helps a LOT. Keep it coming, guys, and thanks again. John Phillips

[Mechie3]

Another thing to do is make a new bracket for the alternator. The current driver side bracket shares features with the AC mounting, the passenger side shares features with the PS mounting. You can either minimize the stock brackets, or make new ones, and reduce the clutter.

In stock configuration, the wiring harness runs over the top of the turbo inlet hose. This can be trimmed down and then routed under the inlet to hide it.

[RM1SepEx]

very nice! Just added some dieting and a TGV delete to my action item list... Thanks!!!!

[Rasmus]

I had no idea the gbod were that heavy almost 5 lbs!

Weird, right? It's disproportionate how weight removal/simplifying goes. I probably spent 4 hours removing that 133 grams from the throttle body, and 20 minutes for the 2.130 kg GBoD.

[Mechie3]

I don't think in Kg and grams. lol

[Flamshackle]

No one here will worry about it but don't forget that for older motors the idle speed control also ran hot water lines to it. Deleting the water lines and adding thermo spacers makes a good difference in inlet temps.

[Nuul]

You can't do the Columbian math in your head I see. 2.2Kg = 1 pound.

[slopoke]

I could be wrong but .... IIRC 1 kilo = 2.2 pounds ... its been a long time

[rjh2pd]

You can't do the Columbian math in your head I see. 2.2Kg = 1 pound.

lol its 1 kg = 2.2 lbs

[Nuul]

I could be wrong but .... IIRC 1 kilo = 2.2 pounds ... its been a long time

No, you're right I wrote it down wrong. Thinking one thing and typing another.

[longislandwrx]

You can't do the Columbian math in your head I see. 2.2Kg = 1 pound.

who cant?

[Mechie3]

Me.

[FFR-ADV]

Great Thread! Thanks guys!

[freds]

How about the air pump valves. Be careful...as there is an atmospheric pressure sensor integrated into one of the valves on 07's and some 06's, so removing it will cause an error in the way the car reads atmospheric pressure and as a result it will cause an error in the way it reads manifold relative pressure as well, throwing things off across the board.

I have an 06 donor and it definitely has the integrated pressure sensor, although the NASIOC threads all state "only" 07's + have it (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...highlight=pump)

[Mechie3]

What is the production date on your 06? I removed everything on my 06 back in the day.

[longislandwrx]

Thanks freds... added the air pump to the original post... My donor is an 05 so I forgot to drop some air pump love on the 06+ers. It wouldn't let me add pictures, Max of 10 per post so here is


PART 2.


Air Pump

The 06 and up have an air pump that feeds air to the heads to improve emissions. the system is hideous and heavy at about 10lbs. The whole assembly and associated wiring can be removed. You'll have to remove some codes with your tuning software and purchase some block-off plates $30-$80. But the difference is huge.

ditch this:

airpump.jpg

for these

8c261c98-9037-4ee1-93a6-26f5305e22b1-800.jpg

Coolant reservoir

The EJ has a coolant fill at the top of the motor since the turbo is higher than the radiator. However, being right on top of the motor it looks sloppy. On the 02-04s it's more prevalent than the 05+ but it still gets in the way on all models.
This is easily relocated to the firewall or other discrete location (as long as its higher than the turbo) If you replace your turbo with a non water cooled variant, you can remove this fill altogether (although this doesn't apply to most aftermarket turbos.) We'll have to see how the coolant routes on the 818 before finalizing the coolant routing. My thought is they will use this reservoir mounted high as a fill/burp for the coolant system.

relocated:

IMG_3781.jpg


EGT Probe

Many WRXs came with a catted up-pipe. removing this cat is a great upgrade making both power and decreasing spool time. In order to keep tabs of this cat, Subaru installed an EGT probe in the uppipe to make sure the cat doesn't overheat. This probe is useless one the cat is removed but just removing it will cause you to throw a code. two options, use your tuning software to delete the codes or remove the probe from its wiring harness, and insert a 2.2 K Ohm resistor, available at any radio shack. There are only two pins in the plug, so just insert one end of the resistor into each lead of the plug. Wrap up the end with electrical tape to make sure your resistor doesn't fall out. You can also pull the wiring all the way back to the harness and save even more weight.

here's the dead weight
images.jpg





Shame on me for not putting placeholder posts in.

[freds]

What is the production date on your 06? I removed everything on my 06 back in the day.

I don't know, I only have the VIN to go on and that confirms it is an 06 WRX and not the door plate. The production sequence # is "5092xx" if that helps anyone to find a closer mnfg. date.

[freds]

I don't know, I only have the VIN to go on and that confirms it is an 06 WRX, and not the door plate. The production sequence # is "5092xx" if that helps anyone to find a closer mnfg. date.

Here are pics of the LH valve and connector on my 06, also I chose to tap the "air holes" and bolt-with-washer seal the holes. The Cosworth plates do look nice though Longisland.

The RH (which is already removed) "valve has the standard two pin connector.

I haven't decided where to mount or remount the valve yet. Or whether to cut the top with the connector and sensor off the valve and locate it somewhere convenient.

20130301_125713.jpg20130301_125639.jpg20130301_125656.jpg

[Mechie3]

Cut the top.

[freds]

Now that I'm "into it" I realize the massive value of this thread for anyone previously unfamiliar with WRXs. (like me!)

Thanks again.

fred

[THE ITALIAN]

Good informative Thread here, BUT this all depends on your state emission regulations & if you are building an S or R for track, does it not ?

Don't get me wrong here , Carbon Global warming & carbon emissions are Phony gov stuff(especially where I am from), but rules are rules, and if some guy pulls all this off w/o looking up regulations he's in trouble

[C.Plavan]

Great Thread! Thank you!

[shinn497]

The question then is, for people who live in states with restrictive emissions laws, how much of this would be legal?

[slopoke]

Threads like this ... ( THANK YOU LIWRX!! ) should receive "Sticky" status. Great stuff!!

[walt555]

I noticed some of those grams saved on the throttle body are from porting!

[C.Plavan]

How about some acronym explanations for us EJ Turbo Noobs.

ie BOV (Blow Off Valve) etc.

There are a lot of acronyms being throw around in threads, I feel like I'm trying to guess stuff on Wheel of Fortune.

[itsymbal]

remove this, cap off the nipple on the turbo inlet and use a cap to close the tube on the intake manifold (also a easy place to hook up a boost gauge) You will have to turn off evap codes with your tuning software

Is there a tuning software that you found works well?
Also - cap to close the tube on intake manifold - do you put a small hose clamp on the hose and pinch it shut or is there an actual cap you can get someplace?

Thanks

[Mechie3]

Cobb Tuning makes the Access Port and Race Tuner software. Expensive (relatively) but works well. There is also open source and romraider that requires a tactrix cable (~$100) and a laptop.

They make vacuum port caps. It's a vinyl closed end cap. Stick it on and zip tie it in place.

[longislandwrx]

Slight Correction...

access tuner race is FREE for personal use if you own an Accessport (expensive). just fill out the form.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/accesstune...st-s/70716.htm