Do you need a hand tool for these on fiberglass or can you just hammer them in?
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Do you need a hand tool for these on fiberglass or can you just hammer them in?
Huh? Theres no hammering them in. You need the proper tool Do an internet search on them to see how to install.
mike
Yeahhh. I'll need the tool. How are these for long term use. I assume bullet proof as long as install correctly. I think I saw a FF on Muscle Cars or something that were install by FF.
Can anyone recommend a manufature?
I buy the aluminum nutserts from Mcmaster... I don't remember where I got the tool, check Harbor freight, Mcmaster, Eastwood etc...
Like a set of Clecos, something you just have to have IMHO
My tool came with the Hot Rod.
I am on my second nutsert tool from Harbor Freight. Not the best tool around, but they guarantee their hand tools forever. First one broke, took it back and got a new one. No biggie.
Steve
MK 3.1 #6422, Complete Kit, 340hp Ford Racing Crate Engine, WC T-5 Trans, 3.55 Rear, Barcelona Red Mica Metallic, Silver Stripes
If you're using these on just plain fiberglas you may want to use a metal backing plate as they have a tendency to pull out.
Coyote powered Daytona Coupe Competition Racecar #21
Challenge series #21
FFR 33 Hot Rod
2009 3rd place NorCal series
2010 3rd place West Coast series
2011 2nd place NorCal, 2nd place West Coast Series, 3rd place WERC class E1
I have one you can borrow if you want. Just replace the nut-serts you use. I can bring it to HB if you can wait until then.
Ray
I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....
“Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
-- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue
Nutserts and the tool to install them came with the 33 kit. If FFR are using them on the 818 kit it will come with the kit. So don't buy one now if you don't need it till the kit. Save yourself some money.
HB? WHAT! FF supplied the tool with your 33. Mannnnnnnnn that company rocks.
The FFR supplied tool is really good. I would not buy a cheap one. Also I would not use the aluminum Nutserts. I didnt have much luck with them. I find the steel ones hold much better.
Mike
The FFR Huntington Beach Pier show on April-27th.
https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-ne...ach-cruise-in/
Ray
PS: Or, you can set them like this: http://youtu.be/UNOGZlHsSGo
Last edited by Ray; 03-12-2013 at 06:54 PM.
I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....
“Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
-- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue
Nah I need it this weekend. Think I might just weld some nuts to a small peice of metal. Or just wait for a full kit next week. Is the one ff supplies standard size or metric? Can you get a metric switch out part?
The trick with nutserts is that the hole must be precise. Even a few thousands over spec reduces the amount of 'clamp' they have and they don't last long. Generally speaking, use a drill press. A hand-held drill is not the best idea. If you do use a handheld drill start undersize and use bits designed for sheetmetal, sometime regular drill bits make not-so-round holes in sheetmetal if used carelessly.
Also wall thickness is important and has a spec range to stay in.
Last edited by PhyrraM; 03-12-2013 at 08:33 PM.
As a mechanic, I personally hate nutserts, but mostly it's not there fault. The problem is down the road when you want it to come apart, that the bolt gets stuck in the insert and turns the insert. This happens because of rust or corrision, or poorly installed nutsert, or too long of bolt - which left excess threads sticking out the back of the insert to rust or gatherdirt. I use them only when I have to, because there is no access for nut on back side. When I have a blind hole situation, I'm very mindful of the bolt lenght, use stainless bolts, or apply a good never-seize to the bolt before final assembly
Just the cost of going back time after time. Yesterday I was doing a job and had to use 3 vise grips, one was Chinese and it would't hold properly the other two were "vise grips" and they worked flawlessly. There is something to be said for a good quality tools. Personally I don't care to deal with tool problems.
Thanks for all the input guys!
a cheap pair of vise grips can mean the difference between a afternoon project and an afternoon trip to the ER
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.