better have some big *** calipers. the project mu blue has always got me hot an bothered.
Visit our community sponsor
better have some big *** calipers. the project mu blue has always got me hot an bothered.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Just the 06 WRX 4 pots. I've considered bigger brakes just to fill the wheels and look fun since this won't be a competitive car for me, just a fun DD, but it's too much money for no benefit.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
Well, there may be some benefit if you are willing to spend the extra money for some loss of unsprung weight. Wilwood 4-pot brakes have a 10mm bigger rotor and weigh 10.5lbs less per side for the front brakes. You should be able to sell your Subaru 4-pots to help fund the upgrade. But that's up to you if losing 20lbs off your front hubs for $1200 is worth it.
Plus losing my 2pc dba 5000 rotors.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
Well if you already have lightweight rotors, than the weight savings will be significantly less. You could still save weight with the calipers, but not as much.
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
Mk3.1 Complete kit #6846 Delv. 12/20/08-- Finished 2/11/11, 89 302 EFI,T-5, 3-Link, 17" Halibrands, Nitto 555 245-315 tires, widened drivers footbox w/ dead pedal, extended passengers footbox,Sapphire Blue Met & Wimbledon White stripes,radiator stone guard shield, Build blog http://jimsffrcobrabuild.blogspot.com/
Yeah in the weight reduction thread I posted a combined weight for rotors and calipers and the weight savings from the Wilwood setup would be 21lbs total for the fronts. That's a huge difference especially given the location. But I don't recall the weight of individual calipers for the OEM stuff, but I know the Wilwood 4pots are 4lbs each.
I would have driven the car if it was dirt brown, but I have been hoping for white. Come on September so I can start building this amazing car. Great work FF team!
1995 Nissan Skyline GTR VSpec
818S in progress.
Yeah so the car is still only 818kg, and the 4 pots stop good and hold up well, even some rally teams use them. If we want good brakes that are lightweight and can handle the track 24/7 these are the best Subaru front and rear brake deal at 7k period.sti6pot.jpg
The next option are front Project MUkit.jpg and than Alcon's front 6pots Mono6.jpg for like 4k-5k for front only, so lets add like another 3-4k, 7-9k
then the brembo front only 6pots bre_1m2_8039a1_1_tn.jpg. Offcoarse these are not to bad either for 3 k lol, stp_83_836_4600_51_1_tn.jpg, etc etc
there are countless others, images.jpeg
but these are all great brakes and have been proven in the subaru, and many other race scenes. Will they stop great, yea, are they all light, pretty much, are they worth it on a street 818, no, the 4 pots of Brembo stock Sti's are good enough in my opinion. to save 20 pounds and spend like 10k, I will turn up the boost one psi and trim my fuel etc, the car pulled a 1.5g!!!! guess the brakes held it down. Now if I were rich enough to race, well I would go out and buy the lightest best stopping brakes out there for sure, but I thought this was a 15k build?
Last edited by metalmaker12; 05-13-2013 at 09:50 PM.
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
lol, I figured I get you to comment back, lol, yea well I was trying to stay under 30k for the brakes wayne, Maybe if I hit the lottery I will build a mean 4 car 818 track team and spend like 150k on each one
theses would be the brakes at that point DownloadedFile.jpeg
I'd just do some dynalites with carbon rotors, plenty of brake power and really light
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
I have some spare two pot dynalites of my F500. Not sure they're up for the task of the 818, but they sure are super light!
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
To stay under $15,000......................I hope that still means complete price.
FFR Daytona Type 65 Coupe
67 427 Cobra
57' Belair
72 Pinto Wagon ,306" 1/4 miler
34 5 window coupe Ford
2003 Mustang GT
99' ZX9
85 Goldwing
All toys still in the Scuderia!
Every Saint has a past..................every sinner a future
Don't take yourself so seriously........no one else does.
You never see a motorcycle parked outside a Psychiatrists office.
I was thinking these front and rear
Billet_Dynalite_SI-lg.jpg
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
What do you consider high speed? 60, 100, 130? You could use aluminum calipers, rotors that have an aluminum hat, and step down in size if you really want to cut weight from your brakes.
Can you recommend an engine for me? I want it to be cheap, make great power, be reliable, and cheap again
In all seriousness, all things being equal, a smaller setup should cost less. If you can't go with aluminum, you could look for smaller oem stuff.
Well this discussion went a completely different direction (par for the course I guess )
You don't have to spend $10k or even $2k to get a good set of lightweight track proven brakes.
www.wilwood.com
This kit runs just under $1100 and will shave 20-21lbs off your front hubs. If there is anywhere you want to eliminate weight it's in the wheels and brakes. This will improve every aspect of performance (handling, acceleration, and braking). You can probably sell your front Subaru 4-pot set for $500 to someone on the forums, so it's a $600 brake upgrade. Not too shabby.
I would assume shaving off nearly 1500 lbs on a car that stops in 123 feet (60-0) under full weight with crappy tires would be more then enough brake ability to stop the 818 with sticky tires.
As for color, white with graphics works for me.
But the discussion isn't braking power, it's weight.
You get the better braking ability (even if it doesn't technically need it) but shave off ~21lbs from your front hubs, which is a BIG deal. People spend thousands on forged wheels to save 5lbs per wheel, you can save ~10lbs per wheel by spending $600 or so (net after sale of stock 4pots) for the brakes.
Anyways, yeah, absolutely white with bronze wheels and some carbon accents for me.
Back to color... does Factory Five offer frame powder coating in a choice of colors for the other models or just black.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
Black, or black with metal flake?
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
Just get white, take the body parts into Maaco, pick the color you want to paint it....done (and cheap)!
Saw this on my Facebook feed today from "GT Spirit"
White supercars with red interior have always got my motor running I love it, I know red interior isn't for everyone, but I think it's amazing looking when combined with a white car.
I think I may just end up doing almost exactly this scheme, except carbon hood and "Factory Five" on the doors. I'll get red Corbeau seats and do other parts of the interior red as well, and then Plastidip my CE28's (wheels) red as well.
This thread started with color so I will say RED, like the 818S I've been drooling over since November.
Evan78: you ask for inexpensive, powerful and reliable. The old adage is "select any two".
Pete
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
As has been said, pick any 2:
- Cheap + Reliable = Impreza Naturally Aspirated 2.5L (in the 818 it should make "good" power)
- Power + Reliable = WRX Turbo 2.0L (because the 2.0L should be cheaper than the 2.5L)
- Power + Cheap = I don't know why you would want to sacrifice reliability, so I don't have an answer here
You have to define "Cheap" I think that you could do a $15,000 818 with a low mileage, damaged 02-05 WRX donor if you stuck with many of the stock parts!
Of course I had to upgrade a bunch of parts!
It would be hard to make one for 15,000 in R.I with our sales Tax of 7% and lack of low cost donors.
Kit: $9999
Donor: 2,500 (a decent running 80- 120k donor will be 5k-7k and a crashed one will be 2,500- 4,500+)
Needed to function parts minimum: 2,000 (a low ball)
Donor Tax to state: 175.00
Kit Tax: 699.93
Kit tax to state: 699.93
Total: 16,073.86 at the low end.
It will be hard to build one for 15k that will run that great or hold up long. 20k-25k is more like it to be honest.
Last edited by metalmaker12; 05-18-2013 at 09:49 PM.
My donor was 1850 w/o shipping (bad roll over) $3500 delivered to Maine`05 but only 70,000 miles
I "had" to replace 1 front control arm, i driver's seat belt, transverse links in rear, 1 rim and tire, steering rack
I chose to do a bunch more
Quaife, new rotors and hawk pads, light flywheel, new clutch, belts, pumps, ceramic header and up pipe etc
sold off $1200 in unused parts , even from an ugly roll over, ugliest donor I've seen!
Maine sales tax on Kit $500
Maine tax on donor $ 92.50
"needed" parts $ 500-1000
I could have done it for $15,000
Last edited by RM1SepEx; 05-18-2013 at 10:42 PM. Reason: forgot sold parts
funny, just finished the above post, went to crash, checked my email... PayPal notice, another $64 into my paypal account, I need to ship another unused WRX part tomorrow!
But as I stated before, you got really lucky with your donor (as did I). Others can't expect to get a similar deal. I'm with Metal; I think a $15k car demands a NA Impreza. If you want to use a WRX, you should plan on spending $20k. If you get lucky, great, but you can't really plan to get lucky (if you could, I would have ALREADY won the lottery!)...
Patience... I deliberately started early to avoid some price increases due to 818 demand. I'm not really actively looking and I've found a couple more low mileage damaged donors with similar $3500-$4000 costs. I bet that there are quite a few examples already on this forum, they just are documented all over the place. There are so many build variables it is hard to compare. You can't really make blanket statements when there are documented exceptions, hell you even are one!
Anyone can find a deal if they look hard enough, Hitting the lottery vs finding a fair deal for a crashed WRX is not the same. Don't forget that you can sell off unused parts. Even my roll over with double airbag deployment and only one undamaged door panel has given me almost $1250 back... I still have more parts to sell. It would be very nice to get back the original $1850 purchase price...
Someone on this forum Erik? Flipped one, got a second WRX and now has his donor virtually free... no luck, no lottery, just time and effort.
What happened to colors BTW? I'm still at no on white, I'd be happy with Red or Blue.
Last edited by RM1SepEx; 05-19-2013 at 08:21 AM.
It is true the 15k build can happen( a lot of time and selling parts effort), but on avg most of us will spend 20-25k to complete the 818. I am at 7-8k in donor and parts. Add kit,taxes, ri tax on kit and donor. I will be in at 19-22k
I'm probably just going to go through 818Donors. But to offset the cost I've been gathering tons of different parts here in Japan to sell back in the US when I come back. The profit should more than pay for my donor kit.
My estimate I have worked up after buying my donor, + kit, and other things (new radiator and shroud, wheels, tires, gauges, timing belt kit, tranny rebuild w/ LSD) less sell-off of parts I won't be using is around 19k.
On topic, the white with black wheels and accents would look really nice. Simple and clean.