FormaCars

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 59

Thread: 2002 WRX harness, pictures of each connector?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like

    2002 WRX harness, pictures of each connector?

    And the wiring nightmare begins! (In my apartment...working late all week, and will be burning the midnight oil and going home for lunch to do the wiring)

    This is a 2002 WRX harness (plugging into an EJ257/205 hybrid) for my 818R build, which I intend to make street legal. I will be keeping some options for us R guys, such as wipers, blinkers, maybe cruise control etc.
    I'm going to document it the best I can. It's a total work in progress and is definitely not as thorough as Craig's thread, but hopefully it will clear up a few differences between the earlier and later WRXs.




    I think I will go forward with this. Currently, I plan to delete:

    -All airbag wiring
    -All wiring to doors (maybe shorting the door sensors, maybe just "deleting" the door light bulb from the cluster)
    -Fog lights
    -HVAC
    -Power steering
    -Fuel evap sensors
    -ABS(can I just remove all of this?)
    -interior lighting/aux power(might keep 1 12V supply just in case)
    -all fuse boxes, replacing them with a small circuit breaker panel (for safety on a track, for ease of replacement, for weight/space/looks, "thermal memory" purposes, and because race car. I do understand the potential for slower response times, and will have to look into specs before pursuing this fully)
    -Probably more that I'm not remembering right now.


    PLEASE feel free to give feedback, especially if you think I could be doing something better. I'm an EE but I am pretty new to this kind of wiring, having rarely tinkered with harness things.

    In the mean while, I don't have a good idea for what to use for covering the wires. My WRX has some extra wiring running externally, and I ran some high temp fuel line covering over the wires to protect them. What's everyone here think is the best solution? Plastic tubing?
    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 03-11-2014 at 01:33 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Encinitas, CA
    Posts
    1,653
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    I could pretty easily do that for most connectors, if anyone thinks that'd be useful!
    Craig has done a great job documenting the 06 harness here: Wiring Guide: 06 WRX Sedan with Auto AC/HVAC.

    If the 02 is significantly different it might be appreciated by others, but I have on 06 and will be following Craig's guide.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Wow! Great thread! Sorry to tread on it; I'm glad it's been done probably better than I could do it!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, USA
    Posts
    2,343
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have a 2003 donor, so I for one really appreciate the effort!

  5. #5
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Xusia, alright! I may just do it. There are a lot of people using the 2002-2003 harnesses, from what I've seen. I will try to bring it up to the standard that Craig's thread is at!

  6. #6
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    This would be perfect Frank! I also have an 02 harness. My plan was to follow Craig's guide and remove SRS, speakers, HVAC, door wiring, power steering, fuel evap sensors (and probably forgetting a few other things here). I'm going to keep ABS in case I want to run it in the future. Then, test fit it in the kit, make sure the car starts and then start trimming/lengthening wires. I'm not sure if I will remove the fuse box yet - on the one hand it would save some weight but I'd lose over current protection.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    STiPWRD,

    I plan to delete the fuse box and replace it with a panel of circuit breakers. Same level of protection, but instead of having to replace a fuse in a pinch(say, on a track when something electrical craps the bed), you could press a button and limp the car to safety (or...ignore it for a few laps )

    That sounds about right for me. I'll keep updating the first post in this and try to neaten everything up. It'll look better than the crap quality and disorganization I have now, I hope!

    Frank

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    67
    Post Thanks / Like
    I would also be eternally grateful to you for doing a thread like this. I'm using an 03 harness. On your example listed above, would you simply trace every wire on the abs plug and snip it at the furthest point? I'm just worried about cutting wires that are potentially tied into something else.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    theburner9,

    Yup! That's the idea, at least. I have the wiring diagrams from ken-gilbert, and will be double and triple checking everything before I cut it away. While Craig's guide is amazing, I feel there are a few too many differences between the 2002-2003 and the 2006. I think we got the "easier" ones, for a couple reasons.

    Frank

  10. #10
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Alright, here's what I'm thinking for formatting. I welcome feedback on this format and on my accuracy of the wiring. It's based off of my labeling, intuition, and memory, so there are bound to be errors. I think together we can make a good list.


    Here is the engine bay section of the harness. It goes below the HVAC system in the passenger seat, through the front of the engine bay, to the main (relay) fuse box, then in to the driver footwell's fuse box.
    Unfortunately, I did start tearing off plastic/rubber/Airbag wiring before I decided to take pictures of this. The airbag wiring is always easy to spot and came right out of this section of the harness without any issue. The harness had a ton of nasty electrical tape on it, plastic tubing, and rubber gaskets for entering/leaving the car. They're in a trash bag, and I intend to weigh all of the scrap once it's done to see total weight savings.


    1.

    (keep) To fuse box under driver footwell. Maybe some wires can be trimmed from this, but that is TBD at this point.


    2.

    (keep) to engine itself. Definitely keep [F60, F61]


    3.


    (optional delete)There are two plugs here, One is front washer, one is rear washer (not used on sedan). It's clear by the difference in dirt which one has been plugged in and which one hasn't on mine. I'll be keeping the front one for street legality. [F32, F33]


    4. Fuse box. Whew. More on this at a later date. Hopefully delete and replace with circuit breakers.


    5.

    (optional delete) Front ABS sensor. I am deleting [F94, F95]


    6.

    (delete) AC pressure switch [F79]

    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 03-13-2014 at 06:07 AM.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Damn. 7 images per post. Okay, I guess I'm gonna raise my post count a little bit!


    7.

    (delete) AC compressor [F24]


    8.

    (keep) Alternator [F26, F25(ground)]


    9.

    (delete) side markers [F52, F53]


    10.(I think delete) Fog lights, I'm almost certain. They were all cut up and spliced into HID controllers on my car. If anyone has pictures of these, please share them. If not, I'll just be deleting these wires. [F6, F21]


    11.

    (keep) Headlights! Two of them, obviously. Save these for use with the FFR lights. [F7, F23]


    12.

    (optional delete) Horn.There are two of these plugs. I'll be keeping at least one for street legality. [F5, F47]

    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 03-13-2014 at 06:04 AM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    13.

    (delete) side reflectors [F52, F53]


    14.

    (optional delete) ABS Module, I will be deleting this one. It's no small feat! These wires go everywhere. [F49]


    15.

    (keep) Cooling fan plugs, at least keep one of these. I'm keeping both because I'm not sure which length is better suited for the run yet. [F16, F17]


    16.

    Keeping this for now. Mostly or entirely ABS stuff, Hopefully I can delete this[F76]


    17.

    (keep)Blinkers. Two of em. [F4, F3]


    No clue what my two "?" connectors are. If they don't have a tag on them, it's almost safe to assume that they weren't plugged in on my car. If you have any insight, let me know. I'll post pictures of them soon.


    Upper right "?" guy. I have no clue what this is.
    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 03-13-2014 at 06:02 AM.

  13. #13
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Exeter R.I
    Posts
    2,834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    The green one is the alternator plug,,, scary lol, the large white female connector has some important stuff within it, the white/ red wire is the starter signal etc etc. mechie has a well documented thread
    Last edited by metalmaker12; 03-11-2014 at 08:53 PM.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by metalmaker12 View Post
    The green one is the alternator plug,,, scary lol, the large white female connector has some important stuff within it, the white/ red wire is the starter signal etc etc. mechie has a well documented thread
    Thanks! I know he does; from what I've seen there are some differences between the 02 and 06 harnesses, and I'm trying to cover those differences somewhat explicitly.
    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 03-12-2014 at 06:12 AM.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Whew, figured out a bunch of stuff and trimmed some wires out. AC pressure switch, side lights, fog lights.

    Considering deleting ABS but it isn't nearly clear enough to me yet, I'll keep working on that.

  16. #16
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Exeter R.I
    Posts
    2,834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    The abs controller has most of the wires to it on its harness side. The sensor wires (yellow and black in gray sleeve I believe ) go to there corresponding wheel area. The other side has a cluster signal wire and a common ground. To fully delete it you need it all gone. Follow up with your schematics, but as you look at it you will see were I am going. Delete all airbag yellow wire cover crap. Etc etc have fun

  17. #17
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by metalmaker12 View Post
    The abs controller has most of the wires to it on its harness side. The sensor wires (yellow and black in gray sleeve I believe ) go to there corresponding wheel area. The other side has a cluster signal wire and a common ground. To fully delete it you need it all gone. Follow up with your schematics, but as you look at it you will see were I am going. Delete all airbag yellow wire cover crap. Etc etc have fun
    Thanks! It's all making a lot more sense now, actually. I printed out some of the wiring and am tracing the circuits back. Ken Gilbert's wiring diagrams are fantastic; way better than I expected. Thanks for the help, Metalmaker!

  18. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    607
    Post Thanks / Like
    Any more updates? This is extremely helpful. Thanks for putting in the effort.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ah so sorry about this. I have more pictures taken but I haven't gotten the chance to label them or post them yet. I'll get on it as soon as I can! More to come!

  20. #20
    Senior Member gwarden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Surry Va
    Posts
    199
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    Ah so sorry about this. I have more pictures taken but I haven't gotten the chance to label them or post them yet. I'll get on it as soon as I can! More to come!
    Did you abandon us?
    Getting ready to tackle this part of the journey

  21. #21
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by gwarden View Post
    Did you abandon us?
    Getting ready to tackle this part of the journey
    Not exactly. I got my kit around this time, and haven't touched wiring since. I'm probably 10-14 days out from starting the wiring adventure myself (well, installation) and plan to document it all quite well.

  22. #22
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    south-central CT
    Posts
    1,611
    Post Thanks / Like
    After picture #17 you say you have no clue what the two connector are for. I would say they are for the vapor canister purge solenoid that has to do with venting gas vapors.

    On my '08 STi I have a similar solenoid just to the right of the alternator and to the left of the power steering pump and it's attached to the intake manifold. You probably won't be needing it or the connectors.
    HAH! See this recent post on simplifying the EJ.
    Are they in the area of the alternator/power steering pump? On my STI I have three of them that are exactly alike and the third one is for the coolant temperature sensor. I didn't see that plug identified in your list. I believe on earlier cars like yours it is gray and triangular. The sensor is mounted on the cast aluminum coolant crossover pipe.
    Last edited by Scargo; 10-27-2014 at 06:17 AM. Reason: added link

  23. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like
    I am taking wires out of the white connector (F74) now. I have a thick white/red wire, a white/black, a green/black, a light green/yellow left. Which ones do I keep ?
    Dave

  24. #24
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Okay! A little hiatus, but I'm back on wiring now that it's cold in the garage.

    Splicing the fuel pump and level sensor right now. These are the connections I'm planning to make for them:



    edit: crap. I think this is the NA picture.

    Here's a live-action shot of the connectors for the level sensor:



    Overall fuel harness picture(individual connector pictures coming soon to a thread near you) :
    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 12-14-2014 at 07:27 PM.

  25. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like
    What did you use for a grommet where the wiring, throttle cable and battery cable go through the front firewall? The hole is just under 2" diameter. I found grommets for the shift cables and there is a rubber grommet for the steering shaft. The build manual shows a black rubber piece in one pic. but doesn't show a part number or instructions.
    Dave

  26. #26
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    400
    Post Thanks / Like
    I just used 3/8 inch rubber hose slit the long way and glued in with super glue.

  27. #27
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Quiny View Post
    I just used 3/8 inch rubber hose slit the long way and glued in with super glue.
    I'm going to do the same.



    I found I can delete the entire Integrated Unit on my 2002 harness (connectors B280 and B281). All of the connections go to dimmers for interior lights, keyless entry, seatbelt warning light, door locks, etc. Nothing "important" seems to be on these two connectors. Definitely not the case for anyone who wants to retain things like electronic door locks, etc.


  28. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    165
    Post Thanks / Like
    This is a great help,
    I am trying to remove my stereo wiring plug and I have traced a wire from the stereo connector to the cruise control switch (Brown w/ white stripe). I was wondering if you had any insight on this as I want to keep cruise control but I want to wire my own stereo without the stock harness.

    Thanks,
    Ian

  29. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    165
    Post Thanks / Like
    Also, where did you get those wiring diagrams/schematics that indicate the wire colour? I have the 2002-2003 subaru impreza service manual but I can't seem to find these within it, did you get them from a separate document?

    Thanks,
    Ian

  30. #30
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Frankfort, IL
    Posts
    734
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    I'm going to do the same.



    I found I can delete the entire Integrated Unit on my 2002 harness (connectors B280 and B281). All of the connections go to dimmers for interior lights, keyless entry, seatbelt warning light, door locks, etc. Nothing "important" seems to be on these two connectors. Definitely not the case for anyone who wants to retain things like electronic door locks, etc.

    I may have misunderstood the wiring diagram, but I thought the back lighting for the gauge cluster and hazard button was also effectively routed through the integrated unit. Are you using something other than the Subaru cluster or did you figure out a workaround to skip the integrated unit?

  31. #31
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Frankfort, IL
    Posts
    734
    Post Thanks / Like
    This was my initial summary for the plugs in a 2004 WRX:

    B280 (Blue) - Integrated Module

    1 LR Power/Keyless entry Delete
    2 WB Power, Fuse 3 FB-33 ?
    3
    4 B Ground
    5 L Room Light Delete
    6 Or Door locks Delete
    7 RG Door locks Delete
    8 R Driver door lock Delete
    9
    10 L Rear Defog, ECM FB-15 Delete?
    11 BL Seat Belt Light Delete
    12
    13 B Ground
    14 OrW Lighting - various Keep portion?
    15
    16

    B281 (Gray) - Integrated Module

    1 R Rear Defog switch Delete
    2 YB Key illum light Keep?
    3 BrR Seat Belt Switch Delete
    4 BrY Auto trans only? X
    5
    6
    7 Y Keyless entry module/FR door switch Delete
    8 L Or Driver door switch and light on cluster Delete
    9
    10
    11 YR Driver door lock button, keyless entry Delete
    12 RW Driver door lock button, keyless entry Delete
    13 OrW Keyless entry module Delete
    14 OrB Keyless entry module Delete
    15 V Various lighting - power Keep portion?
    16 GrR Lighting switch B71 Keep
    17 LW Trunk light Delete
    18 L Lighting switch B71 Keep
    19 GR Power FB-20, Fuse 11 Keep
    20 WR Key Warning Switch/Keyless entry Delete

  32. #32
    Senior Member xxguitarist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    389
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by iblackwe View Post
    Also, where did you get those wiring diagrams/schematics that indicate the wire colour? I have the 2002-2003 subaru impreza service manual but I can't seem to find these within it, did you get them from a separate document?

    Thanks,
    Ian
    Here you go, Ian.
    http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/7%20-%20WIRING.PDF

  33. #33
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by billjr212 View Post
    I may have misunderstood the wiring diagram, but I thought the back lighting for the gauge cluster and hazard button was also effectively routed through the integrated unit. Are you using something other than the Subaru cluster or did you figure out a workaround to skip the integrated unit?
    This is a good question. I plan to wire the "interior lights" (dash, hazard, backlight for switches, extra gauges, and perhaps a floor light) on the headlight switch. Splice them into that 12V supply that feeds the headlights.

    I drive with my lights on during the day, so it wouldn't bother me to have to flick the headlight switch on before being able to see my dash well.

  34. #34
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by billjr212 View Post
    This was my initial summary for the plugs in a 2004 WRX:

    B280 (Blue) - Integrated Module

    1 LR Power/Keyless entry Delete
    2 WB Power, Fuse 3 FB-33 ? Fuse for keyless entry, delete
    3
    4 B Ground
    5 L Room Light Delete
    6 Or Door locks Delete
    7 RG Door locks Delete
    8 R Driver door lock Delete
    9
    10 L Rear Defog, ECM FB-15 Delete?i say delete!
    11 BL Seat Belt Light Delete
    12
    13 B Ground for keyless entry, delete
    14 OrW Lighting - various Keep portion? I figure I can get lighting from almost anywhere, so I'm deleting for the sake of getting rid of the IU
    15
    16

    B281 (Gray) - Integrated Module

    1 R Rear Defog switch Delete
    2 YB Key illum light Keep?Nothing on 2002 WRX wiring diagram(or so I wrote down...)
    3 BrR Seat Belt Switch Delete
    4 BrY Auto trans only? X
    5
    6
    7 Y Keyless entry module/FR door switch Delete
    8 L Or Driver door switch and light on cluster Delete
    9
    10
    11 YR Driver door lock button, keyless entry Delete
    12 RW Driver door lock button, keyless entry Delete
    13 OrW Keyless entry module Delete
    14 OrB Keyless entry module Delete
    15 V Various lighting - power Keep portion? I deleted all of the interior lights to get rid of the IU. I think pulling lights and putting them on a switch on the dash (or HL switch) is easy enough.
    16 GrR Lighting switch B71 Keep
    17 LW Trunk light Delete
    18 L Lighting switch B71 Keep
    19 GR Power FB-20, Fuse 11 Keep
    20 WR Key Warning Switch/Keyless entry Delete
    Marked up my findings in bold. Similar to yours!

  35. #35
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    165
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by xxguitarist View Post
    Thanks a lot, very very helpful

  36. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    617
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by billjr212 View Post
    I may have misunderstood the wiring diagram, but I thought the back lighting for the gauge cluster and hazard button was also effectively routed through the integrated unit. Are you using something other than the Subaru cluster or did you figure out a workaround to skip the integrated unit?
    Backlighting goes through the integrated unit. A simple workaround is to wire up an on/off switch that grounds the Orange/White wire to turn the lights on full brightness. More complicated is to create a simple pulse width dimmer that's controlled by the dimmer knob. It should only be about ten bucks worth of electronics parts.

  37. #37
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jaime View Post
    Backlighting goes through the integrated unit. A simple workaround is to wire up an on/off switch that grounds the Orange/White wire to turn the lights on full brightness. More complicated is to create a simple pulse width dimmer that's controlled by the dimmer knob. It should only be about ten bucks worth of electronics parts.
    Yup, that's my idea. I intended to only have it be a toggle switch, not on a dimmer.

  38. #38
    Harley818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Vancouver BC
    Posts
    788
    Post Thanks / Like
    I am dieting an 02 harness. I have the wiring diagrams.
    How do I know whether to ground a wire, or just isolate it, to keep integrity of the circuit when I delete something?

    I deleted all the keyless entry stuff, security, ABS, A/C, PS,TGV's, EGT, PW, PDL, defogs, blower fans and more.
    I left in the ODB and check circuits, diagnosis connectors etc.
    In most cases I just cut it out right back to the FB (fuseblock) or MB (main breaker panel), or to a multiple splice.

    For example, for the A/C, I cut out the relay, thermo switch, pressure switch and the wires right back to the FB and to the ECM. I just insulated them at the ECM so they don't touch anything. Should I have grounded them?
    Another example, the ABS system I cut completely out back to the FB, but left the RW wire from the FB to the combination meter. There is a LgY wire from the combination meter that goes to the ABS control module - should I ground this one? or just leave it hanging/isolated?

    thanks for the help.

  39. #39
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati OH
    Posts
    3,903
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    I am dieting an 02 harness. I have the wiring diagrams.
    How do I know whether to ground a wire, or just isolate it, to keep integrity of the circuit when I delete something?

    I deleted all the keyless entry stuff, security, ABS, A/C, PS,TGV's, EGT, PW, PDL, defogs, blower fans and more.
    I left in the ODB and check circuits, diagnosis connectors etc.
    In most cases I just cut it out right back to the FB (fuseblock) or MB (main breaker panel), or to a multiple splice.

    For example, for the A/C, I cut out the relay, thermo switch, pressure switch and the wires right back to the FB and to the ECM. I just insulated them at the ECM so they don't touch anything. Should I have grounded them?
    Another example, the ABS system I cut completely out back to the FB, but left the RW wire from the FB to the combination meter. There is a LgY wire from the combination meter that goes to the ABS control module - should I ground this one? or just leave it hanging/isolated?

    thanks for the help.
    The best / safest thing to do with any wires dieted is to insulate them. (I use a piece of heat shrink)
    That way if there is power on the wire you do not damage anything.

    There are some exception to this rule. There might be a wire from the seat belts or abs that turn on a warning light on the cluster.
    My suggesting hear is to wait to see what doesn't work on the cluster and tackle it then.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  40. #40
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    1,230
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    I am dieting an 02 harness. I have the wiring diagrams.
    How do I know whether to ground a wire, or just isolate it, to keep integrity of the circuit when I delete something?

    I deleted all the keyless entry stuff, security, ABS, A/C, PS,TGV's, EGT, PW, PDL, defogs, blower fans and more.
    I left in the ODB and check circuits, diagnosis connectors etc.
    In most cases I just cut it out right back to the FB (fuseblock) or MB (main breaker panel), or to a multiple splice.

    For example, for the A/C, I cut out the relay, thermo switch, pressure switch and the wires right back to the FB and to the ECM. I just insulated them at the ECM so they don't touch anything. Should I have grounded them?
    Another example, the ABS system I cut completely out back to the FB, but left the RW wire from the FB to the combination meter. There is a LgY wire from the combination meter that goes to the ABS control module - should I ground this one? or just leave it hanging/isolated?

    thanks for the help.
    What Bob said above is a good idea.

    I usually try to look at the diagrams and see what state things would "like" to be in. For instance, if I remove a sensor:
    -Would it normally read high or low during track day conditions?(i.e. warm, no issues, etc.)
    -How would this affect the circuit? (e.g. shorts a connection, grounds something, etc.)
    -What other circuits does this affect? Can I still be OK if this sensor is mistakenly miswired?



    I hope that makes a little sense.



    In the case of your wire to the combination meter (which is poorly explained in the wiring diagram, I think) I would leave it hanging with some wire left on it for now. When you're up and running, you can take care of that as needed (I'm probably going to just remove those wires and pull the bulbs out of the meter )

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Brown County Customs

Visit our community sponsor