Am I Ready for the Body?

[efnfast]

Alex, seems like you're a rivnut expert, you used them on your footbox panels, too, right?

I need to get some ordered, which sizes are you using?

I mostly used 8-32 for attaching panels.

[AC Bill]

I installed all my lights before putting the body on. Much easier to do while it is still on the buck. Just tape the pigtails up out of the way while the body is gong on. I also fitted/drilled the Lemans filler cap beforehand.
Don't forget bulb seal on the firewall. The shoulder harness hole plastic grommet protective stuff, is easier to install with the body off, as well. It's a little tricky to fit it. Not sure if you have a heater, but defogger holes cut now, would be smart, as would be wiper pivot holes.

[3kcarbon]

I mostly used 8-32 for attaching panels.

Are you putting the rivnuts in the F panels or the ears? I was pondering 1/4-20 which is over kill but I already have a box of 1/4-20 here.

[efnfast]

Are you putting the rivnuts in the F panels or the ears? I was pondering 1/4-20 which is over kill but I already have a box of 1/4-20 here.

1/4-20 would be kind of useless (imho) for panel attachments .... #8s are compact and will hold perfectly fine.

The rivnuts go into the frame, the screw then goes through the panel into the frame.

So basically align the panel where you want it to go. Clamp it in place. Drill through panel and frame with drill bit (I usually use 1/8''). Then drill out the frame larger to accomodate the rivnut (use proper sized drill bit here!). Then enlarge hole in aluminum to accomodate #8 screw. Done.

When a rivnut goes in, it leaves a "washer" on the the surface it's going into (so it isn't totally flush). This was okay for me if the panel was resting against the rivnut 'washer' instead of directly against the frame, but if you want it directly against the frame you can use a unibit to enlarge the aluminum holes such that they sit inside the rivnut 'washer'.

In any event, make certain you practice before using them - it's not very hard to do, it's just like pulling a rivet, EXCEPT you don't want to mash the handles of your rivnut tool together. Generally a gentle squeeze and you're done - too much of a squeeze and you'll rip the threads off the rivnut.

I wouldn't bother with steel rivnuts - the aluminum ones work fine once you've practiced installing them (i.e., you don't end up stripping the threads, lol) .... they can take a fair bit of torque. For example, a 1/4-20 max recommended torque is 10ft-lbs. I can torque a 1/4-20 bolt into an aluminum 1/4-20 rivnut to 15ft-lbs before I destroy the rivnut, so they're plenty strong.

[3kcarbon]

#8's are as big as a rivit so I see the logic.

[kinneyb]

I used 1/4 -20's on the rear elephant ears because there were only three (2 at the top and one at the bottom thru the lower fender edge) and 10-24's in the front ones from top to bottom, with one above the cobraearl power vent duct and one right below it on either side. I used them on the front for the nose floor to body and to the lower radiator; and to mount my ss mesh radiator guard.

Kinney Beisel