Thanks Bob, that makes sense. I always figured that even if there was more coming from the output pipe bleeder port vs the radiator port, that there would still be enough to allow some bleeding. I agree about the self-bleeding.... very important to have. Since your test showed more pressure from the upper bleeder port vs the radiator port, does that mean you feel you aren't getting any bleeding action from the radiator?
I asked the question because I'm playing around with this stuff too now due to an overheating issue. I have the same setup you do, in terms of bleeders (though I do have my upper bleeder coming from a fitting I welded onto the upper coolant pipe - but in effect it's the same as what you have). I did, however, block off the heater core lines by capping each one with a block-off cap instead of the FFR provided U-pipe. I can't test during driving due to a bad MAF calibration that i'm trying to work through, but while idling for long periods of time, the radiator fans kick on and the coolant temp just keeps climbing. Are you experiencing an issue like this too or are you more just testing to ensure self-bleeding functionality? My right-side coolant pipe to the radiator is very hot so I know the thermostat must be opening and coolant must be flowing to the radiator, and even with the heater core line blocked off, there should be enough coolant cycling through the turbo, the upper pipe bleeder, and back down the return pipe from the degas tank to hit the thermostat and make it open (the turbo coolant hose, the engine bleeder hose, and the rad bleeder hose are all hot to the touch so coolant must be going through them all). The left side coolant pipe is quite cold though. I'd expect it to be at least warm.
...... I did, however, block off the heater core lines by capping each one with a block-off cap instead of the FFR provided U-pipe.
I thought the heater core lines had to be looped or the thermostat wouldn't open? Is the cold side also hot (it should be)?
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15 First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm! First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
does that mean you feel you aren't getting any bleeding action from the radiator?
Are you experiencing an issue like this too or are you more just testing to ensure self-bleeding functionality?
Hi Lance,
Even with the waterless coolant, I still need to get the air locks out of the system.
Hindsight,
I have a couple thousand miles and 300 autocross runs on my rear radiator set up with no coolant issues. All my problems were air flow related.
I have a heater core instead of the "U" pipe.
My thinking right now.
I will put the "T" close to the tank so both will bleed into the tank.
I wish I could find some low cost flow indicators to put into the lines.
Something like this: