Initial body fitment advice

[rich grsc]

You need to do the initial fitting WITHOUT the bulb seal on. That goes on after everything else is fitted and it's the last time the body goes on.

[Scott Zackowski]

You need to do the initial fitting WITHOUT the bulb seal on. That goes on after everything else is fitted and it's the last time the body goes on.

Unfortunately, the bulb seal is on, although I suspect it is going to get all tore up when I pull the body, resulting in the purchase of new bulb seal.

I am not sure if I understand why that would make a difference.

Eventually the body will go on over the bulb seal and have to fit properly.

Obviously if the Al panels need timing the bulb seal will need to be removed.

[rich grsc]

Unfortunately, the bulb seal is on, although I suspect it is going to get all tore up when I pull the body, resulting in the purchase of new bulb seal.

I am not sure if I understand why that would make a difference.

Eventually the body will go on over the bulb seal and have to fit properly.

Obviously if the Al panels need timing the bulb seal will need to be removed.

So you can see where the aluminum needs to be trimmed and how much.

[Scott Zackowski]

So you can see where the aluminum needs to be trimmed and how much.

I like it!

Simple answer that makes sense.

Thanks

[AC Bill]

Unfortunately, the bulb seal is on, although I suspect it is going to get all tore up when I pull the body, resulting in the purchase of new bulb seal.

You should always tape some plastic sheeting over the bulb seal, for test fitting the body. This prevents the seal from getting messed up from the body's rough underside.
I left the plastic on, even after the last time the body went on. Before fastening the body, I pulled the plastic out. Works great, seal was still like new.

[stevant]

You should always tape some plastic sheeting over the bulb seal, for test fitting the body. This prevents the seal from getting messed up from the body's rough underside.
I left the plastic on, even after the last time the body went on. Before fastening the body, I pulled the plastic out. Works great, seal was still like new.

What gauge plastic sheeting do you use to protect the Bulb seal please? I'm about to fit my body and was told to do so with all the bulb seal etc. in place...…….now I'm confused. I understand that the aluminum panels might need to be trimmed but also figured that the bulb seal might make up the difference in the high/low spots. Obviously if there is too much aluminum it will never sit down enough. I guess that still happens with these builds. Figured at this point the panels would be pretty consistent as long as the build is true.

[edwardb]

What gauge plastic sheeting do you use to protect the Bulb seal please? I'm about to fit my body and was told to do so with all the bulb seal etc. in place...…….now I'm confused. I understand that the aluminum panels might need to be trimmed but also figured that the bulb seal might make up the difference in the high/low spots. Obviously if there is too much aluminum it will never sit down enough. I guess that still happens with these builds. Figured at this point the panels would be pretty consistent as long as the build is true.

Several comments about this: While it's not a bad idea to check fit the body without the bulb seal to see if there are any high points in the aluminum, I also wouldn't panic if you haven't. I've completed two Mk4's and neither needed any of the aluminum trimmed. I think the newer Mk's are better than previous and IMO some of the advice is based on experience from older versions. It wouldn't be that hard to go back and trim if necessary. But I'm betting you won't need to. One of the main candidates is probably the rear trunk sill. There it might be necessary to trim some aluminum to get the best fit for the trunk lid, e.g. using the rear quick jack mounts to draw in the bottom edge of the trunk opening. But you won't find out if that's necessary until the body fitting is further along including with the bulb seal and then fitting the trunk lid. The more important concern regarding the body fitting IMO is the front and back of the cockpit opening on the body itself. The front will need to be trimmed/straightened to get the best fit for the dash. The rear will need to also be trimmed/straightened, and probably a little more aggressively, to allow the rear cockpit wall with insulation and carpet to fit.

As far as damaging the bulb seal, several things. Take a couple minutes to clean up and sand the rear body edge. The edge scrapes across the bulb seal on the trunk sides as you stretch the body around it while installing. A smooth rounded edge helps a lot to reduce damage. Plus it's easier on your hands. Then cover the bulb seal with something as you slide the body into place. Left exposed, there's a very good chance you'll damage it. The plastic sheeting is a good idea. I actually have used plain old towels and made sure they stayed in place while installing. Whether plastic or anything else, pretty easy to left the body slightly and get the material out once the body is in place and before attaching the rear quick jack bolts.

[AC Bill]

What gauge plastic sheeting do you use to protect the Bulb seal please?

Sorry for the delay in answering..I actually used some plastic that came on a new mattress, so I'm not sure. I'm thinking it had to be at least 6 mil., possibly thicker. The stuff used for greenhouses should work well. Very strong, and not easily torn.