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There's no way powder coat (if that's what it is) is going to bugger up threads like that. It's much softer than the metal and would quickly be knocked out when threading together with those size threads. First rule during assembly -- if something doesn't go together with only "mild" force, stop and figure out what's wrong. Either the wrong parts, mismatched threads, cross-threaded, defective or who knows. But no way any parts of the suspension should require the kind of force you're describing. The specific assembly you're working on right now provides for the alignment of the rear suspension. So with the jam nuts loosened, the pieces should rotate freely to allow for adjustment. The minute it started hanging up, you should have stopped. I would say the same thing for any other nut/bolt combination. You may be able to clean up those threads with a file enough that it will go together. But you have to figure out what caused the problem in the first place. May/may not be fixable.
Having said all that, I know/understand what you've described with the supplied ball joints. Many have struggled in a similar way although a wire brush to the ball joint threads seems to work for many. I personally would never install them with that much force. Keep in mind they're potential wear items, and at some point may need to be serviced. They won't get looser with time. You're going at this build with great enthusiasm and I applaud that. But I'd recommend slowing down and stepping back a bit when things aren't acting quite right. Finesse over force. Figure out what's wrong.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
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Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
edwardb
There's no way powder coat (if that's what it is) is going to bugger up threads like that. It's much softer than the metal and would quickly be knocked out when threading together with those size threads. First rule during assembly -- if something doesn't go together with only "mild" force, stop and figure out what's wrong. Either the wrong parts, mismatched threads, cross-threaded, defective or who knows. But no way any parts of the suspension should require the kind of force you're describing. The specific assembly you're working on right now provides for the alignment of the rear suspension. So with the jam nuts loosened, the pieces should rotate freely to allow for adjustment. The minute it started hanging up, you should have stopped. I would say the same thing for any other nut/bolt combination. You may be able to clean up those threads with a file enough that it will go together. But you have to figure out what caused the problem in the first place. May/may not be fixable.
Having said all that, I know/understand what you've described with the supplied ball joints. Many have struggled in a similar way although a wire brush to the ball joint threads seems to work for many. I personally would never install them with that much force. Keep in mind they're potential wear items, and at some point may need to be serviced. They won't get looser with time. You're going at this build with great enthusiasm and I applaud that. But I'd recommend slowing down and stepping back a bit when things aren't acting quite right. Finesse over force. Figure out what's wrong.
I hear you, and thanks for the advice. I'm not sure if I did a good job capturing how it went down with the rear UCA, because I basically did what you suggested... the bolt caught, I got through about 360 more degrees with moderate force, then backed it out to figure out what was happening. It didn’t give me a lot of grief until I was backing it out, when I had to break out the lube and lever arm...
I'm not sure what it would be if it's not powder coat. It clearly hit the threads after they were cut on the piece. A file is an idea so I'll give that a shot and report back. Also emailing FFR to see what thoughts they have on it.
Last edited by richtersand; 11-28-2020 at 03:59 PM.
Matt
FFR Complete Kit, Coyote, Tremec TKX, 3.73 IRS, power steering, 18" Halibrands, Wilwood brakes, Gas-N pipes + header, Viking blue color
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
richtersand
I'm not sure what it would be if it's not powder coat. It clearly hit the threads after they were cut on the piece. A file is an idea so I'll give that a shot and report back. Also emailing FFR to see what thoughts they have on it.
Following up on this. I think my buddy nailed it that it's probably splatter from the welding process. I tried to file and dislodge it but it isn't going anywhere. I'll report back what FFR says. Hopefully it's an easy/quick swap.
Matt
FFR Complete Kit, Coyote, Tremec TKX, 3.73 IRS, power steering, 18" Halibrands, Wilwood brakes, Gas-N pipes + header, Viking blue color
Roadster Build Time Tracker
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