Rick, do you have have a actual wire from battery negative to engine block? Or are you going through the chassis?
Bob
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Rick, do you have have a actual wire from battery negative to engine block? Or are you going through the chassis?
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
My ground lead uses the frame. My reasoning is:
1) Millions of production cars do it this way and it works; including Subaru I imagine (though my car came with the donor stuff already stripped out so I don't know for sure).
2) The car starts fine which means the ground conducts a couple hundred amps without issue.
3) The ground lead at the battery is short and goes onto the frame; clean connection. There is a robust lead from the engine block to the frame at the rear.
4) If it was a ground momentarily losing contact, would it cause this exact symptom every time? Honestly, I have no idea.
I could run a booster cable clamped on the battery and the other end onto the engine, if I can figure a way to do that while leaving the car drivable; hood and rear deck lid partially open.
Build page (The Bolton Build): https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ton-Build-818C