Has anyone tried tuning the amount of power steering assist with this add on?
http://www.unisteer.com/electric-pow...le-assist.html
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Has anyone tried tuning the amount of power steering assist with this add on?
http://www.unisteer.com/electric-pow...le-assist.html
I wish they offered one with a speed input that could lighten the assist as speed increased.
'33 Hot Rod
Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18
MK4 Roadster
Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.
At the build school they suggest adding a toggle switch so you can turn it off at highway speeds. They advised that early on, the electric steering got a little twitchy a higher speeds.
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
I have the electric power assist set per manual. very stable at high speeds I've had my car up to 164 on the Texas Speedway (You can see pic at photosportsusa.com group 32-009)
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I've ordered the electric power steering option as well but I've heard some criticize that it is too light at higher speed so I found that you can actually vary the amount of assist provided using that module that I provided the link for above. Seems like you might be able to dial down the assist a little so it isn't quite as light at high speed but still gives some decent amount to help at low speed. Doesn't seem like anyone has tried it yet though. Might make an interesting project once I get the main part of the build done. Being an electrical engineer I might be able to find a way to provide speed input to that add-on by replacing the potentiometer with a circuit that has variable resistance based on speed...
No engineer, but was electronics technician in my former life. I've thought about the same thing. Maybe using a speed sensor based off Trans output, maybe an eye sensor, that would vary the resistance based upon counters per second? Id have to dig out some old books to sort it out again, but the technical idea is solid.
'33 Hot Rod
Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18
MK4 Roadster
Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.
Here's a link for something to do what you're talking about,
worked for me on my GTM years ago...
http://myraceshop.com/Steering.html...
There has been some discussion on this in other posts and other applications. I think there are multiple factors. The hot rod likes lots of caster and this helps high speed stability. Wide tires and lots of caster make low speed steering effort high so the initial tendency is to "dial it in maxed". The F5 cars are very responsive to begin with so if your used to variable ratio hydraulic unit these can feel "twitchy". The rack ratio plays into this also. Most importantly there has been different power units offered over the years. I believe there are 220W, 330W, and 440W units. These are sized by car weight with the 440W unit for 4WD trucks. I don't know which one comes with the Kit and I used the aftermarket universal model. I would have to check my receipts, but I believe I used the 220W as I had already soloX the car and just needed faster reaction time at the lower speeds. The 220W is the same as what you would put in a JD Gator or Polaris UTV. It appears physically the same size but draws less current. I'm running 7+ degrees of caster and -2.5 Camber. I've had street tires as large as 285/35/18 on the front and it just sticks and turns with one palm on the wheel. Only the driver gets twitchy...
The Unisteer kit that came with my 33 was 170 watts.
Thanks for the caster and camber info.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
That's interesting. 170W should be just right. That leaves the only issue as not "sensing" center as well which I think is partly the rack and pinion set up. Alignment needs to be symmetrical in that Caster and Camber are exactly the same on both sides and when you set toe in, the rack and steering wheel must be on center AND the front needs to be on center with the rear. I run smaller tires on the front for street so that may also be a factor. There isn't much center feel, but, you will get used to it as you drive the car more, and faster, and sideways... Its hard to worry about center when your lifting and turning left as you look down the road out the drivers side window
I have kit 1104 (rec. last month), and it came with the 170.
Though I would try it so I ordered one from Summit, Had to return it. It is not plug compatible with the unit FFR sales.