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Thread: Andrew's 818S - LYTW8

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    Andrew's 818S - LYTW8

    I never started a build thread, so this is more of a recap.

    Current State:












    Last edited by Aero STI; 08-20-2018 at 03:24 PM.

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    More Pictures Taken Recently:












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    Various Pictures:


    Last edited by Aero STI; 08-20-2018 at 03:24 PM.

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    Some Videos: (these were the stock turbo setup)

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    Reprogramming my Gauge Cluster:







    Early Progress:



    Last edited by Aero STI; 08-20-2018 at 03:25 PM.

  8. Likes Jupiter818 liked this post
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    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    I remember seeing a lot of these pictures over the past 14? Months. I really liked your build and followed many of the same things you did. Thanks for putting this up.

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    Very nice! Thanks for posting. Looking forward to seeing the refinements.

    Hard to tell from the pics but looks like you went with an IWG? Did you have to modify the up-pipe at all to get it to work in the 818? Any cross-brace modification needed?

    When I upgrade my turbo I was planning on trying to fab my own up pipe in hopes of locating the turbo where I wouldn't have to modify the cross brace, so am curious to see what you did.

    I take it you are running E85?

    You say your fuel pump is hard-wired.... what does that mean?

  11. #10
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    Exhaust Fabrication Work:
    Last edited by Aero STI; 08-20-2018 at 03:26 PM.

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    Manifold Work:

    The 2.5i intake manifold is really ugly to start with.



    Last edited by Aero STI; 08-20-2018 at 03:26 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Very nice! Thanks for posting. Looking forward to seeing the refinements.

    Hard to tell from the pics but looks like you went with an IWG? Did you have to modify the up-pipe at all to get it to work in the 818? Any cross-brace modification needed?

    When I upgrade my turbo I was planning on trying to fab my own up pipe in hopes of locating the turbo where I wouldn't have to modify the cross brace, so am curious to see what you did.

    I take it you are running E85?

    You say your fuel pump is hard-wired.... what does that mean?
    Yes, I'm using a Turbosmart dual port IWG actuator. See the latest pictures I added.

    E85 is the only fuel this car is tuned for. Ethanol or nothing at all. The fuel pump is run off its own relay (well it's shared with the AWIC pump) that bypasses the factory fuel pump regulator circuit. This ensures the pump is running at its full potential.

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    I haven't completely finished the doors, but rather than have door handles on the inside or the outside I went with electric actuators and I have a keyless remote. It works great and is a bit of added security from people easily entering the car.






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    Boyd Tank Fuel Filler:








  16. #15
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Great Job AeroSTI,
    I love your build.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

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    Love the up-pipe fabrication and using the PVC as a template.

    For the very small slivers of bends you had to slice out of a larger mandrel section, what did you use to make the cut? I have an abrasive metal chop saw and it works good for straight pipes but doesn't work so well for cutting bent pipe or for making cuts in very short pieces. Wish I had a band saw.

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    excellent!

    it was great to meet you andrew - you've got an awesome car going

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    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Very very nice stuff!!!

    Can you elaborate a little more on the LCA spacers? How thick are they and what did you gain/lose?
    What specs bolts you used for?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Love the up-pipe fabrication and using the PVC as a template.

    For the very small slivers of bends you had to slice out of a larger mandrel section, what did you use to make the cut? I have an abrasive metal chop saw and it works good for straight pipes but doesn't work so well for cutting bent pipe or for making cuts in very short pieces. Wish I had a band saw.
    The nice thing about schedule pipe is that it's the same OD, so schedule 40 PVC is a perfect substitute and much cheaper than the 304SS. I used a horizontal bandsaw for some of the smaller slivers of pipe. You can get a lot of those slivers out of a single 90 degree bend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Very very nice stuff!!!

    Can you elaborate a little more on the LCA spacers? How thick are they and what did you gain/lose?
    What specs bolts you used for?
    This is the "more caster mod". I think I used 10 to 12 mm thick aluminum. Longer 10.9 metric bolts are needed.

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    The opening in the boyd tank for the fuel pump is quite small. This turned out to be a problem with the large bottom Walbro 450 fuel pump. I didn't feel like welding anything tonight so a quick angled cut gave barely enough clearance to get the assembly back in the tank. Also, the aeromotive stealth had a rubber isolater wrapping the pump and it was loud. This walbro is direct metal on metal contact and way quieter.


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    Insurance Guy was asking about seat brackets. I designed these up and had them formed by my friend's fab company. They go almost flat to the tubing in the back and provide 1.5" of lift in the front.


  24. #23
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    Those look nice. I used some momo aluminum brackets. They weren't cheap ($50 I think) but they do allow for a lot of adjustment and I can basically get the seat right down to the bars as well. Still have weld some tabs to the frame bars to have something to bolt them too though as they aren't as long as yours.

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    I'm having major traction issues, but this is still a fun road dyno.


  26. #25
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    Have you thought about getting a traction control system? Do you have a limited slip?

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    No LSD at the moment. I'm going to source a 6 speed with a factory front LSD. I can't justify spending $1,000 to $1,500 on installing a quaife unit in the 5 speed, when a 6 speed can be had for $2,000. Traction control would be awesome, but I completely deleted the ABS system.

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    Photo account full...
    Last edited by Aero STI; 08-20-2018 at 03:27 PM.

  29. #28
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    That's a meaty flange! Did you have it CNC to your specs or was it something you found online?

    In your turbo research, did you find conclusively that the twin scroll EFR 7163 spools faster than the non-twin scroll version on a Subaru engine? A tuner I've been talking with a lot says they don't really see any spool difference between twin and single scrolls on Subarus on the dyno and ever since that comment, I've been looking for data to support or refute that claim. It's just rare to find someone with the exact same year and setup who has tested both, which is the only fair comparison. The fact that the 08+ cars or dual AVCS and so many people are now running 08 and newer cars makes it even harder to find an applicable comparison to the earlier years.

    The Quaife you'd need ca be had for ~$800. I like the 6-speeds for durability but I'm not sure how the factory LSD compares to the Quaife, the 6 speed adds a lot of weight, and I think 6 short gears might be slower in 0-60 and 1/8 mile times on a light turbo charged car like the 818. Certainly a lot more shifting, though you could skip gears when driving around town. Just my two cents.

  30. #29
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    I designed the flange myself. I had an elaborate design, but it required 3 setups in a 5 axis CNC, this takes 2 setups in a 3 axis CNC and certain sections could be laser cut to significantly reduce machining costs. I would change it slightly so there is more space between the two pipes to facilitate welding, but otherwise it works great.

    I can't say conclusively that boost onset is faster than a single scroll. Transient response is insane and I have to imagine it's faster than the SS. I chose the twin scroll because theoretically it should be better and I've had a couple of TS EJ207 setups that I loved.

    The price of the quaife alone is not bad, but if I'm in the tranny I'm going to swap a few other components, thus the $1k to $1.5K I said. Also, without expensive gears the 5 speed is not suitable for my power levels. There were at least two options for front LSD, A.P. suretrac and Helical, in the 6 speed. I can't recall which one is the best, but holding the power is the primary concern, LSD the second, gear ratios probably the third.

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    Yeah the 5-speed strength is a concern. 6 speed should hold up to anything you could throw at it. There are, of course, the PPG gears for the 5 speed but at like $4500 for the complete set.... that gets expensive quick. I will probably go to a six speed if I blow up my 5 but I really don't want the added weight and extra short/close gears. I think it would also require changing the clutch setup and driveshafts I have which would add to the conversion expense.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aero STI View Post
    I'm having major traction issues, but this is still a fun road dyno.

    I would think so! You realize you're around the same power/weight ratio as a $3M Koenigsegg One:1?

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    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    That flange is hot, Hot, HOT! I'm virtually sold on getting the EFR 7163 for my build.

    What header system did you use? Do you like it?
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

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    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    I would think so! You realize you're around the same power/weight ratio as a $3M Koenigsegg One:1?
    That plot is total bull****. The road dyno software is just watching changes in RPM, since the tires broke loose the change was extremely exaggerated.

  35. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    That flange is hot, Hot, HOT! I'm virtually sold on getting the EFR 7163 for my build.

    What header system did you use? Do you like it?
    This turbo is amazing. VF-39 like spool, twice the horsepower. I bought the exhaust manifold off of eBay. The seller claimed it was a Full Race, but there are no markings.

  36. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aero STI View Post
    That plot is total bull****. The road dyno software is just watching changes in RPM, since the tires broke loose the change was extremely exaggerated.
    Ah got it... what looks like a steep, late rise is exagerated by wheelspin. Still impressive!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aero STI View Post
    Traction control would be awesome, but I completely deleted the ABS system.
    I'm guessing you already know this, but I think all you need are the wheel speed sensors and the Racelogic traction control system.

  38. #37
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    You can even get aftermarket wheel speed sensors and run them off the driveshaft or off the stock signal wheel.

    RaceLogic decided to stop offering their traction control system LAST WEEK, so if you think you may want it, I'd suggest calling them ASAP and placing an order. They have a few left and they will support them forever but their other products make up 99% of their business so they felt it just didn't make business sense to keep offering the traction control system. It's a real shame because I know of no other comparable system for around the same price-point. I have been told by Cobb Tuning that they are planning on adding traction control to the AccessPort but admittedly that is probably going to be at least a couple years down the road, if at all. If they roll it out, they'll start with the newer vehicles first and then go down from there. I'm sure it will work great if they release it but I wouldn't bank on it happening for sure. I ordered my RaceLogic unit on Monday of this week and just received it today.

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    Good stuff. Hindsight, you have a PM from me.

    I weighed the car today at the local milk distributor. It only goes in 20 lb. increments. The car came in at 2,000 lbs. with a full tank of gas. I weigh 170, so my 2170 guess I've been using for road dynos is pretty accurate.

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    Here's a good power comparison.

    2008 Yamaha R6 with minor mods vs 818. I was making around 430 WHP with this run. The most I've seen was 510-515 WHP.


  41. #40
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    Damn, Son! That thing is quick. I think the Yamaha even got a slight jump on your 818.
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