Goldwing's 818 Street, The Phoenix

[Goldwing]

Thanks for your thoughts guys, I think I'm going with the staggered exhaust tip look.

[Goldwing]

Well the exhaust is assembled and installed thanks to help from CustomE, another local builder. Though his business is so busy, he hasn't had time to build his 818 much. I used a mangled cobb downpipe, shortened, a lot. Then used an exhaust donut to turn it back up and over into a C6 corvette muffler, extending one of the tips. (I realize now, some of that is a repeat from an earlier post. Well, here's the final result. To support it, I used the FFR provided exhaust clamp and hanger along the side of the transmission, and a crane-like setup for the tail of the muffler using an unused FFR seat bracket. The sound was similar to a stock wrx, maybe a little deeper.

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

[Hindsight]

Looks very nice! I bet the sound is great.

[Goldwing]

Thanks.

I nabbed a shot from underneath too to show fit. I pointed the O2 sensor towards the engine mount area and ran the wire under the transmission away from any heats source. I still have some trimming and finishing to do.
image.jpg

[Goldwing]

I went the COBB AP route and got that installed today. So far, I unchecked p1400 and P0447 in the COBB off the shelf stage 2 ACN91 LWG map and loaded it up as recommended on another thread when I asked about my setup. (The exhaust you see partial COBB downpipe, a COBB short ram, stock turbo.). The codes were both dieted fuel system related. No other codes thrown yet, I guess I'll deal with them as they come. If no one beats me to it, I'll track the possible codes to disable and related components and start a thread on that topic. I think that would be helpful info.

For those that haven't gotten as far learning about the COBB Accessport (AP) and similar tuning products, COBB is just one option. Probably the more expensive route, but my local tuners use it, and it's somewhat easy to use. For that and other reasons, it's the road I chose. Once you get the AP, you request and download a copy of Accesstuner Race (ATR), that part is free. Inside the ATR program, you can open up the off the shelf maps (and some protune maps if they're willing to save the tune in 'race' mode rather than 'pro' mode. If not, have your list of codes for him/her to disable) and turn off various codes as needed for missing components on our 818's. I found a menu for 'advanced parameters' which pulls up a window with all the trouble codes with checked boxes next to them. Simply uncheck the unneeded codes and resave the map under a new name you can identify in the AP, transfer the map to the AP, then use the AP to program the car. A lot of that may be old hat to many, but it was all new to me, so thought I would give a quick rundown of what I learned knowing someone here will be in my shoes and just learning this stuff.

[svanlare]

I'm a ways away from tuning, but I do have it on my list of things to get smart about. The tutorial on COBB is helpful.

[Goldwing]

For better or worse, I installed a filler tube vent to prevent fuel from backing up while filling. Our boat growing up would do that, and drive me nuts. I don't want my 818 driving me nuts, lol. I'll keep working on a splash plate of some kind to help create a pressure difference at the fuel nozzle when it reaches full and trigger the auto shutoff mechanism in the pump. That bit may be optimistic, but stopping the backups is mandatory, and has already been complained about in the forum. I installed a tee at the vent port (Boyd tank), putting the rollover valve on top with the filler neck vent out the side of the tee. Tapped the filler tube pipe for a fitting up top with a 3/8" hose. I contemplated the wisdom of putting the tee before the rollover valve and did it this way for two reasons. 1) prior to the tee could getting ripped off in a wreck creating a leak, the 2" filler tube will already be long gone with a much larger spill. 2) the rollover valve seemed like a bottleneck point in the tank vent system and may do nothing to help vent volume if the filler vent is plumbed after the rollover valve.
image.jpgimage.jpg

[Frank818]

Rich, the vent of the gas tank isn't enough to prevent this? The vent that goes to the canister.

[Goldwing]

There were a few comments/complaints that you have to fill slowly at the pump, or it can bubble back out. Having dealt and been annoyed with that in the past with the boat, I preempted it with a mod since I was already working on that area anyway. Auto shutoff would be awesome, but bubbling out is for the birds. It'll be months before I can test it out, however.

[Goldwing]

So to directly answer your question, Frank, I guess not.

[Jaime]

I'll keep working on a splash plate of some kind to help create a pressure difference at the fuel nozzle when it reaches full and trigger the auto shutoff mechanism in the pump.

I was think of rigging up an LED display of the fuel level sensor behind the driver's seat so it would be visible while filling. That way I would know when it's full and not rely on the auto-stop. This idea could be extended by putting a solenoid valve in the filler neck vent line and shutting off the vent when it's nearly full.

The low tech solution would be to plumb the vent into the side of the tank at the 95 percent full line. Then the fuel itself would block the vent.

[Frank818]

And on top of the backing out it doesn't auto-shut-off? Gonna be complicated every time you go at the pump, unless these issues are fixed by stuff like you did.

[Goldwing]

Unfortunately. Common issue with assembled custom vehicles with aftermarket tanks. Boats included. Auto shutoff is triggered by a tiny vent hole at the end of the fuel nozzle. It senses a change in pressure at the tip and cuts the flow. That's where the splash plate comes in for the nozzle to fit through and why a solenoid valve was mentioned above to close the vent. We need something to affect the pressure when the tank gets full for the auto shutoff to work. I haven't worked that out yet or read enough for people in our situation, but feel pretty good that flow down the filler tube should be pretty good for me now. I'll find out for sure next spring.

[Goldwing]

I haven't had a lot of time to work on the car lately and have been neglecting the build threads. I got a chance to work on trimming out the parking brake area, adding a little cell phone pocket. Has anyone trimmed down the parking brake adjustment bolt down a bit? It sticks up a lot. I threw a brake bleed screw cover on it for now.

image.jpg

[Frank818]

Rich, you certainly got updates on your build by now? Been a while.

Speaking of a while, are you the one who fitted a stopper/limiter in the steering rack to prevent tires from rubbing the frame/wheel wells on full lock?

[Mechie3]

The stopper might have been fitted by someone with an early chassis. Early ones had the rack offset too far to one side so the solution was to either cheat the alignment or put a stopper on it to make it even left and right. I made a spacer for mine to extend the passenger side and make the center of travel centered on the chassis.

[Frank818]

The stopper might have been fitted by someone with an early chassis. Early ones had the rack offset too far to one side so the solution was to either cheat the alignment or put a stopper on it to make it even left and right. I made a spacer for mine to extend the passenger side and make the center of travel centered on the chassis.

I think that refers to something else. I remember early frames had a rack alignment issue. But here I am referring about a centered rack, with bellows perfectly equal, for which the turning radius is too short in a way that the tires rubs on the frame on both sides, equally, when at full lock on either side (obviously it rubs on one side at a time, depending which side you are turning to).

Someone adjusted that turning radius by fitting offwhite PVC or nylon limiters on the rack or tie-rod end, so that when turning full lock, it would stop the rack from turning more and rubbing on the inside wheel well or frame. I already got hub spacers so I can't add more there.

[Goldwing]

Rich, you certainly got updates on your build by now? Been a while.

Speaking of a while, are you the one who fitted a stopper/limiter in the steering rack to prevent tires from rubbing the frame/wheel wells on full lock?

Hey Frank,

Yes, I made a spacer from a nylon cutting board to clip on each end of the rack under the boots to limit the travel to prevent rubbing. I had already purchased the originally recommended 45 series tires in front so I worked to get those right. A spacer on the rear LCA arm spindle and limiting steering travel with 5mm spacers did the trick for me.

I've been on hold a few weeks with the holidays and a few other projects around the house that jumped to the front. Gotta love surprises. I was fussing with the center console and a little sound proofing when things got too crazy. I'll get back to it as the holidays settle down.

Happy Holidays all!

[Scargo]

... A spacer on the rear LCA arm spindle...

Huh? I don't understand at all and if on the rear what does this have to do with steering?

[Hindsight]

He means on the rear of the front lca.... Its the "free caster mod"

[Frank818]

He meant rear of the front LCAs, very close to the front FW where the LCA's tabs and rear bushings are.

[Frank818]

Damn it, Hindsight just beat me by a minute.

[Goldwing]

Sorry, you guys have it. I had my daughter in my lap while trying to type that out. Yes, rear mount of front lca, and yes, the free caster mod.

[Buzz Skyline]

I found a menu for 'advanced parameters' which pulls up a window with all the trouble codes with checked boxes next to them. Simply uncheck the unneeded codes and resave the map under a new name you can identify in the AP, transfer the map to the AP, then use the AP to program the car. A lot of that may be old hat to many, but it was all new to me, so thought I would give a quick rundown of what I learned knowing someone here will be in my shoes and just learning this stuff.

Thanks for this information. My donor came with a Cobb AP, so I am going to do the same. You had to connect the green test mode connectors to do this, is that right?

Did you delete the charcoal canister and related components, now that you've disabled the CELs?

[Goldwing]

Thanks for this information. My donor came with a Cobb AP, so I am going to do the same. You had to connect the green test mode connectors to do this, is that right?

Did you delete the charcoal canister and related components, now that you've disabled the CELs?

Sorry I missed this, I haven't had any garage time for far too long. Yes, I had to connect the green connectors For the AP to program.

I deleted much of the on or near fuel tank stuff, but I kept the wrx charcoal canister. I mounted it between the transmission and the rear left tire down low. The two footed end mounts to the frame, the top end I rigged a bracket to support. I'll have to watch ground clearance back there.

[Goldwing]

I'm happy to see the trunk kit will work well with my exhaust setup. If I had waited to make my own trunk tray, I could have lowered the floor a bit more, but for the amount of time I've had to work in the garage the last 10 months, I need to be realistic at this point. Quick mockup pic: image.jpg

[Frank818]

Welcome back!

It looks to rub on the shifter cable, is that a matter of camera angle?

[Goldwing]

Thanks. It does as it sits here. The trunk tray is just sitting on the transmission. Installed, it would sit an inch or so higher, so everything should fit without issue, at most an extra cable mount could hold the shifter cable further out of the way. This is with Wayne's k-tuned shifter setup. It was just a quick mockup to eyeball any issues. I was mostly worried about the exhaust. I tried to choose the camera angle so others might be able to gauge fitment with their exhausts. A little heat shielding will be wise of course. Installing the body panels will confirm all that, but looks good so far.

[Goldwing]

Hi everyone! I’ve been through hell and back in the health department. An upper cervical chiropractor is reducing pain levels such that I’ve worked on the honey do list enough where I can be spared in the garage. I’ve slowly been digging my 818 out of the mess that accumulated around and on her. I’m hoping to keep this progress going and finally get her on the road. There’s probably a whole new crew of builders here so figured a quick hello and intro was in order. My name is Rich, I’m up in northeast Ohio in Medina. I have one of the earlier frames, #106, and past go kart stage working on body fitment and lights. I started her up for the first time in a few years and she warmed up with no leaks bringing some comfort to me about where things were mechanically. She’s back to life! My whole project was a replacement for a Honda Goldwing I had to sell due to health concerns. I developed a host of neurological complaints after an epidural steroid injection in 2011 including dizziness, blurry vision, migraines among others. Things took a rough turn in 2015 which is why my posts and progress stopped. While still not cured by any means, the upper cervical guy is peeling back enough layers of pain I’m useful again, some days. I hope to get to know some of you in the newer crew. Almost 5 years of inactivity is bound to show some turnover.

[aquillen]

Wow, glad you are able to get to projects once again. I followed your build and look forward to new words and pix. Especially that you are getting better and I hope you continue to improve. You're pretty close to a fellow 818 builder I talk with (and visited last year). I know he reads these threads...

[Jetfuel]

Rich, I’m one of the new guys here, but I’ve read your built and thank you for your contributions, some that I’ve used in mine.
For what you are going through all I can say is baby steps...baby steps.
Stay healthy

[Goldwing]

Maybe Doug Kirkbride? I hadn’t checked in with him yet to see if he finished yet? Thanks for the warm wishes. ��

[Goldwing]

Baby steps indeed! The forums are awesome for filling in the gaps. A great resource. What’s the jetfuel name stand for? I’m a grounded commercial pilot. I’m still hoping to change that, but it’s been 8 years now. ����*♂️

[AZPete]

Welcome back! I'm one of the old guys still around here wondering what happened and now glad you're feeling better. "The Phoenix" is an even more fitting name for your 818 project than it was years ago. I also look forward to your well-written posts.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Rich,
Glad to hear your doing better. The last time we talked I was probably in go kart mode.
I'm semi retired now. So if you need anything: parts or a hand, don't hesitate to call.
If you get anywhere close to Cincinnati, you better stop by so I can take you for a ride. That will light a fire to get some work done on your 818.
Bob

[Jetfuel]

Yes....what Bob said
Just let us know and we’ll pack a tent, mosquito net and a picnic basket and head your way
Jetfuel...I’ve been building Garrett engines and restoring business class planes for over 40 years

[Goldwing]

Thanks everyone for the welcome back! I was wiring headlights when I ran out of steam starting to look at bumper design. Did any of run into any snags in that department or learn anything along the way? I remember you having a few pictures, Bob. I’ll need to look through a few builds to see what’s been learned while I was playing Mr. Mom. Design, thickness of steel? Can the fiberglass be utilized as a bumper if reinforced and tied to the frame?

I’m still in digging out mode. Funny how things pile up! I have a window to work while my wife is off work on maternity leave. (We welcomed our third in August). Especially if the window comes to a close without plates bolted on this thing, some help with a last minute push to get me across the finish line would be in “make a wish” territory.

[Goldwing]

Bob, I have a friend who drives down to Cinci often on his commute out of town. He flies cargo, globally. Perhaps I could tag along with him, especially if he sees a better route home where he wouldn’t be stuck going back anyway just for his car? I’ll float it past him.

[Goldwing]

Just to update the build, here’s how my 818 looks now. The body just has some rough fitment so far so wires had a place to go.

DEFC537E-2DE0-4C25-8FCA-92DC379AADD3.jpg97355B9E-0CF2-4EFF-9AA5-904E7B45AA57.jpg

[Goldwing]

The garage is cleared enough to work. Resurrecting the build! Today I started kind of mindlessly fashioning a snorkel for the side air vent to feed the engine air intake some cool air. I’ll experiment with wrapping this funny looking collection of plastic bottles and jugs I had lying around in the recycle bin with a layer of fiberglass. Then cut it out in 2 or 3 pieces, reassembling most of it with some fiberglass tape at the seam, but leave part of it as a door with the ability to disassemble to replace the air filter now and then. I don’t have 3D printer tech at this point, so making it up as I go with this one. I think when I wound down in 2014, I left the tricky stuff for a time with a clearer head. A lot of this airflow stuff was staring me at the face digging the car out.

Looking at the intercooler, how are people faring with an air to air intercooler? I’m starting to dig through the forum, I’ve missed a lot of progression of knowledge having been sidelined. In case anyone happened to swing by with some feedback, I’d appreciate the share. I purchased a water to air intercooler shortly before going down as it was an unknown at the time. Subaru turbo power plant Insurance. I saw the 3D printed cowling some have used. Looked nice.
FA145215-7E6B-40FD-845E-32C77298A67A.jpg