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Thread: Chassis Dolly

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  1. #1
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    Scottsdale, AZ
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    Chassis Dolly

    I made this chassis dolly but don't laugh at the extra holes and splices because I made it from the AJW crate wood. This holds the chassis at the engine mount cross bar so I can add the engine and transaxle without it becoming tippy to the back, and it's much more stable than jack stands. The bottom of the frame is 16" above the floor and easy to crawl under. As I did with a roadster, I'll have the engine running and about everything else installed before I have to buy wheels/tires and lower it from the dolly. To remove the dolly, I made the four blocks removable so I can put my jack on some 2x8's to reach the frame, jack it up, remove the blocks, lower it to the base cross piece, jack it up again and remove the dolly from the side. If you will have Stewart deliver your 818, I suggest you don't mount the small 2x2 pieces on the rear blocks but just have the driver set the frame on the four blocks. Roll it into your garage, remove the body panels, position it exactly and then screw on the small blocks to lock it in. You can probably improve upon this design so please post what I should have done.
    Pete




    9/16: See Post #19 for slight revision
    7/22/14: another slight revision. Others have good suggestions so read through this thread before sawing 7 bolting.
    Last edited by AZPete; 07-22-2014 at 05:54 PM. Reason: revision note, correct dimension
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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