Honolulu 818S Hana (work/build) Thread

[Aloha818]

Thanks, will do!



I don't have access to it now; it's in my storage unit, which is under evacuation. I eye-balled how low to go; here's a photo-chop of your pic which approximates how I trimmed mine:

Attachment 29185



Yeah, all black might be a bit much.... A little bright-work can make it pop. Look forward to seeing it!

Thanks for taking the time to photoshop!

There have been lots of "firsts" with the 818. Don't let yours be the "first" to go up in a ball of fire!

[Aloha818]

After spending the time to fabricate and install the brackets to hold the hood in place without hood pins, today was the day to make small adjustments. A little sand here and little grind there and now the hood basically falls into place and with a little pull forward all brackets engage. The design was also to keep the hood aligned side to side to hold the gap I still needed to create.

The returns on the hood start to flare out as it gets closer to the front and the shape is similar to the rear panels, really rounded with the gap tightening at the bottom.

I spent 7 hours today (as a reference of time) to clean up and even the hood gaps. First I ground everything down with 80 grit, then started adding filler. I got the gaps pretty close and the height of the hood to the fender is just about right on all the way except for about the last 18" from the headlights back.

In the pics you can see where I ended the day by laying down some filler to build up the low spot on the fenders.
image.jpg

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And just as I did on the rear panels, after I get everything flat, even and gapped, I will slightly round off the corners.

[wallace18]

You are doing some beautiful work. The end result will be worth it. Can't wait to see it painted.

[Wayne Presley]

Metalmaker, thanks much for letting me know my comments are beneficial! Sometimes I wonder if anyone is reading/following.

I don't have a lot of extra time per se, but my occupation as a manager allows me some flexibility to be around. Also, I only have to walk about 2000 feet to get to work and the garage (all across the street from the ocean, BTW) I'm building the 818 in is only about another block further. So basically I'm not spending 1-3 hours a day sitting in a car like a lot of others probably do. Translates into more time on the build!

So part of my motivation on posting (sometimes I think too much info) my progress is based on a lack of info coming from those ahead of me. My nature is a planner. Without meaning to criticize anyone, and I'm sure they had their reasons, but specific and critical information about the kit were lacking on the first major documented builds. It seams like one day they mounted the panels, a couple weeks later everything is painted and ready to bolt back on. Without the information on how much time it takes to get the body to a high quality, I greatly underestimated how long I should plan to get mine ready. Obviously FFR is not going to pay someone maybe 400 hours to really tighten up the body for show either, as that wouldn't translate well for prospective builders expectations to the kit they would actually receive. Again, I'm not knocking the kit, I'm perfectly happy with what I bought and the price paid. Just trying to keep expectations in the real world!

Anyway, I'm glad my progress is at least helpful, if not entertaining.

I have 100 hours into my body work but since the painter did them I don't have any pics. Some of those hours were because it was going to SEMA and had to be perfect. And it is SEMA show quality paint job, 24 coats of paint and the paint is smoother than the windsheild. There was only trimming the lips to get the panels at the same height, spending time to make sure all the panels at the seams lined up properly and putting the body on in the proper order. The only mod to the body on mine was the edge of the back panel was filled to tighten up the trunk lid gap. The only little thing is the fender where it sits on the headlight, that lip needs to be .25" for most of the headlight and taper some at the point.

[metalmaker12]

You inspired me to make nicer lines and really make the body work stand out. A little trim here, fill there and it's looking much more oem. Thanks for the extra motivation. I feel ya Hana, I tried to document the best I could, but sometimes I just went to building and did not document it all. The mechanical side it's about 100-150 hours to get it rolling, install the aluminum , wiring etc, a driving cart. From a body work perspective I would say its a good 200-300 plus hours to get the body fitted and this car ready for paint. I think painting it will be the easy part. All the little tweaks, mounts we need to make to get over the factory cooler, the front fender rear support etc etc. If one did not paint it then it would be a 250-300 build, but it's more like a 400-500 hour build IMO.

If it went to a body shop to get fit on and painted it would be like 5-8k, just fill lines and fill imperfections and prime- finish would be like 3-5k, just spray the panels ( just clean and paint, already prepped and primed, sanded about 1,200-2,200 depending on type of paint etc. If you do paint all yourself it's about 1-2k in materials.

[Aloha818]

You are doing some beautiful work. The end result will be worth it. Can't wait to see it painted.

Wallace, thanks for the compliment. Your car looks great and I hope you don't mind that I stole your rear spoiler idea.

I can't wait for the day that I take mine around to car shows like you are!

[Aloha818]

I have 100 hours into my body work but since the painter did them I don't have any pics. Some of those hours were because it was going to SEMA and had to be perfect. And it is SEMA show quality paint job, 24 coats of paint and the paint is smoother than the windsheild. There was only trimming the lips to get the panels at the same height, spending time to make sure all the panels at the seams lined up properly and putting the body on in the proper order. The only mod to the body on mine was the edge of the back panel was filled to tighten up the trunk lid gap. The only little thing is the fender where it sits on the headlight, that lip needs to be .25" for most of the headlight and taper some at the point.

Thanks for jumping in Wayne!

And please do not take my comment about "lack of information from those ahead of me" as personal to you or anyone else. That's one of the great things I've found since joining the FFR family, little to no drama/ego/fights on the forum. No one has an obligation to post anything. I was kind of justifying why I post so much and that, like me, I'm sure others don't realize the time it takes to prep the body.

I have read your build quite a few times and I appreciate the time you spent posting. Thanks again. BTW, lots of you pic's on you build thread are gone, any plans to put them back?

[Aloha818]

You inspired me to make nicer lines and really make the body work stand out. A little trim here, fill there and it's looking much more oem. Thanks for the extra motivation. I feel ya Hana, I tried to document the best I could, but sometimes I just went to building and did not document it all. The mechanical side it's about 100-150 hours to get it rolling, install the aluminum , wiring etc, a driving cart. From a body work perspective I would say its a good 200-300 plus hours to get the body fitted and this car ready for paint. I think painting it will be the easy part. All the little tweaks, mounts we need to make to get over the factory cooler, the front fender rear support etc etc. If one did not paint it then it would be a 250-300 build, but it's more like a 400-500 hour build IMO.

If it went to a body shop to get fit on and painted it would be like 5-8k, just fill lines and fill imperfections and prime- finish would be like 3-5k, just spray the panels ( just clean and paint, already prepped and primed, sanded about 1,200-2,200 depending on type of paint etc. If you do paint all yourself it's about 1-2k in materials.

Metalmaker, thanks for posting this info. And I agree, the painting is the "easy" part. A little more stressful though, at least to me. So many things have to go right, all at the same time, for a great result. Prepping, if you make a mistake, add more filler, make a mistake on painting, and your whole day is ruined!

[Xusia]

Metalmaker, thanks much for letting me know my comments are beneficial! Sometimes I wonder if anyone is reading/following.

I don't have a lot of extra time per se, but my occupation as a manager allows me some flexibility to be around. Also, I only have to walk about 2000 feet to get to work and the garage (all across the street from the ocean, BTW) I'm building the 818 in is only about another block further. So basically I'm not spending 1-3 hours a day sitting in a car like a lot of others probably do. Translates into more time on the build!

So part of my motivation on posting (sometimes I think too much info) my progress is based on a lack of info coming from those ahead of me. My nature is a planner. Without meaning to criticize anyone, and I'm sure they had their reasons, but specific and critical information about the kit were lacking on the first major documented builds. It seams like one day they mounted the panels, a couple weeks later everything is painted and ready to bolt back on. Without the information on how much time it takes to get the body to a high quality, I greatly underestimated how long I should plan to get mine ready. Obviously FFR is not going to pay someone maybe 400 hours to really tighten up the body for show either, as that wouldn't translate well for prospective builders expectations to the kit they would actually receive. Again, I'm not knocking the kit, I'm perfectly happy with what I bought and the price paid. Just trying to keep expectations in the real world!

Anyway, I'm glad my progress is at least helpful, if not entertaining.

Dude, your build posts have been downright awesome! I've been reading them in earnest with the blatant intention of stealing some tips, tricks, and techniques. Thank you so much for posting in such detail. It absolutely helps!

[skullandbones]

I've followed your thread and don't even have a build going. My wife and I love Hawaii so I'm waiting for go kart and later pics of your project on the island. I've only been there (Oahu) once. So I hope you progress and get that thing out of the garage! I also like the "spot the hula girl" game. Thanks for your detailed accounts. I agree that the planning is crucial. I think I've heard 30% of the total completion time should be spent on planning: minimum. I'm sure future builders (maybe me) will appreciate your efforts.

Thanks,

WEK.

[AZPete]

Hana, you wrote, "Sometimes I wonder if anyone is reading/following". This thread has over 40,000 views! Lots of us are enjoying and learning and copying stuff. Please keep doing what you're doing.


Or, maybe it's just guys coming to drool over the Hula Girl.

[Aloha818]

Dude, your build posts have been downright awesome! I've been reading them in earnest with the blatant intention of stealing some tips, tricks, and techniques. Thank you so much for posting in such detail. It absolutely helps!

Xusia, I really appreciate that my effort in posting is a value to you guys and others. It also helps me keep track of the time I spend, kind of like a diary!

Copy away, let me know if you need info I neglected to post.

I've followed your thread and don't even have a build going. My wife and I love Hawaii so I'm waiting for go kart and later pics of your project on the island. I've only been there (Oahu) once. So I hope you progress and get that thing out of the garage! I also like the "spot the hula girl" game. Thanks for your detailed accounts. I agree that the planning is crucial. I think I've heard 30% of the total completion time should be spent on planning: minimum. I'm sure future builders (maybe me) will appreciate your efforts.

Thanks,

WEK.

WEK, thanks for following, but you need to start building an 818, I recommend it!

I skipped the "go cart" stage. Once I started the engine and verified the trans operation on jack stands, I went on to putting on the body. After the body was on I took it for a spin around the block a couple of times, then straight to body work and paint prep. And yes on planning time, the more you can plan the better the outcome.

Hana, you wrote, "Sometimes I wonder if anyone is reading/following". This thread has over 40,000 views! Lots of us are enjoying and learning and copying stuff. Please keep doing what you're doing.


Or, maybe it's just guys coming to drool over the Hula Girl.

Thanks AZPete. I'll keep posting, but let me know when I get boring. All this bondo, sanding, etc is the worst. Part boring, but very important for a proper final product.

[Aloha818]

I keep getting interrupted. Sorry for the delay in posting. Family in from mainland, and I think I'm looking for excuses to put off sanding!

So after a couple more rounds of filler I was close enough to sand to fit the gap to my stir stick width. I used contact cement to glue a piece of 80 grit to one side of the stir stick, then sanded to just beyond a tight fit.
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In this pic you can see that filler was required at the bottom of the gap and the top. You can see the white line of the gelcoat in the center
image.jpg

Then after I was happy with the gap and height then I started rounding the corners and sanded down to 180 grit, I'm really happy with how I was able to get an even gap through the bumper and that the hood is flush to the face of the bumper.
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I'm not sure how much room the windshield wiper needs between the glass and the hood, but I have 3/4" on each end and widens up to 1 3/8" in the middle. I sanded down the return lip across the windshield to 3/8" tall.
image.jpg

I found another defect in the glasswork to be aware of. This is in the hood, an the passenger side, on the rearward edge. A pretty good dip, you can see my mark and the wave in the reflection
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I have a couple mods to make to the door panels, but I'm real close to running the panels over and spraying primer.

[Scargo]

Ah, a patient man. It is a tedious process.
Don't forget the 80/20 principal. Get out and enjoy driving the car before your eyesight fails... Also, Hula girl may tire of all the dust, lack of sun and no breeze in her hair.

[VD2021]

I keep getting interrupted. Sorry for the delay in posting. Family in from mainland, and I think I'm looking for excuses to put off sanding!

So after a couple more rounds of filler I was close enough to sand to fit the gap to my stir stick width. I used contact cement to glue a piece of 80 grit to one side of the stir stick, then sanded to just beyond a tight fit.
image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

In this pic you can see that filler was required at the bottom of the gap and the top. You can see the white line of the gelcoat in the center
image.jpg

Then after I was happy with the gap and height then I started rounding the corners and sanded down to 180 grit, I'm really happy with how I was able to get an even gap through the bumper and that the hood is flush to the face of the bumper.
image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

I'm not sure how much room the windshield wiper needs between the glass and the hood, but I have 3/4" on each end and widens up to 1 3/8" in the middle. I sanded down the return lip across the windshield to 3/8" tall.
image.jpg

I found another defect in the glasswork to be aware of. This is in the hood, an the passenger side, on the rearward edge. A pretty good dip, you can see my mark and the wave in the reflection
image.jpg

I have a couple mods to make to the door panels, but I'm real close to running the panels over and spraying primer.

Very nice work. Don't for get to round over all of the edges. If you leave them square the paint will have a tendency to pool/build on the spray side.

[thestigwins]

Any updates?

[Aloha818]

Ah, a patient man. It is a tedious process.
Don't forget the 80/20 principal. Get out and enjoy driving the car before your eyesight fails... Also, Hula girl may tire of all the dust, lack of sun and no breeze in her hair.

Thanks and I firmly agree!

Very nice work. Don't for get to round over all of the edges. If you leave them square the paint will have a tendency to pool/build on the spray side.

Thanks, and yes, the corners will all be slightly rounded, just like OEM.

Any updates?

Sometimes work and life get in the way! We had family in for about 10 days, a work project that took all my regular time plus extra the last two weeks, we moved into a new condo, and I've spent the last 3 days hooking up a new 4K TV and all my HiFi gear.

I'm looking forward to getting back to bondo and sanding this week!

More updates soon.

[CptTripps]

Great thread! I've often thought that putting 2X-3X the time you'd normally allocate to bodywork will pay back in spades when you look at the end product. Sure, if I wanted a white car, this would be easy. White hides a lot of imperfections that you normally don't see. If you're doing a grey or black car, you see it ALL.

Keep at it. You're on the home stretch.

[WIS89]

Body work is looking great. I especially like the joints between the panels. Hard work to be sure, but it should look great.

Three days to hook up your TV and stereo system huh? Now that's a system!

I hope you are well, and I look forward to seeing more progress; looks terrific.

Regards,

Steve

[longislandwrx]

I'm looking forward to getting back to bondo and sanding this week!

Said no one ever.

[Wayne Presley]

Said no one ever.

I know I have not!

[Aloha818]

Great thread! I've often thought that putting 2X-3X the time you'd normally allocate to bodywork will pay back in spades when you look at the end product. Sure, if I wanted a white car, this would be easy. White hides a lot of imperfections that you normally don't see. If you're doing a grey or black car, you see it ALL.

Keep at it. You're on the home stretch.

Thanks for commenting! And yes, since I'm painting it black I have to try hard to make the finished product look good. Since paint and body work is not my profession, I know I will have some defects. So I have to work a little harder!

Body work is looking great. I especially like the joints between the panels. Hard work to be sure, but it should look great.

Three days to hook up your TV and stereo system huh? Now that's a system!

I hope you are well, and I look forward to seeing more progress; looks terrific.

Regards,

Steve

Thanks. It's coming together nicely.

I've recently gotten interested in HiFi. So I've built my speakers, subs, tube amp, tube phono pre amp, tube pre amp, DAC, and turntable. I also designed the shelving (had it fabricated and painted in Vietnam) and built a back cabinet for a hidden tv lift for my new 65" Sony 4K TV. An Apple Mac Mini is used for digital playback and internet streaming.

This is the first time that everything was done/on site to put altogether. It takes a lot of time to physically connect, program, set-up, connect to internet, etc.

[Aloha818]

Said no one ever.

I know I have not!

Ok, so I spent the day back on filler and sanding, but still better than packing and moving!

[Aloha818]

So today was my first day back on the car, took a little to get my bearings and get started. I still have a little work to do on the hood, but I wanted to tackle to door to fender area. FYI, this is my most least favorite part of the car. I'm not a fan of the way the door hinges behind the fender. I'm hoping that with my car being painted black that it won't look so bad.

So I started on the passenger side by block sanding with 180 grit. As you can see in this pic with the guide coat showing in the low spots on the left of the body line. The marker line shows about where I want to float the filler too.
image.jpg

I blocked all the way through the gelcoat, as seen in pick, to get flat. Still didn't get 100%, but pretty close. I used filler to build the panel to flat and to my marker line. The rear side of the fender was also a little low going to the return, added filler, blocked flat, and rounded corner. There was also a small low spot in the fender too.
image.jpg

Then after all filled and flat I rounded over the peak of the body line.
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Still working on the bottom of the fender, pretty nasty as delivered.
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While waiting for filler to set up I cleaned up the gap between the door an quarter.
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I will add glass to the top right of the door to replace where FFR cut off too much after I pull off for primer

[TahoeTim]

Instead of adding to the top right of the door, did you consider adding to the fender at the windshield to bring it back toward the windshield?

[Aloha818]

Instead of adding to the top right of the door, did you consider adding to the fender at the windshield to bring it back toward the windshield?

Thanks for commenting.

I have all the panels set pretty close to where I think they fit best. The hood is only about 3/8" away from the windshield frame.

In a previous post I took a pic of the drivers door and the passenger door side by side and you can see that FFR cut the passenger door panel shorter at the top. I believe others have had the same issue. I lost a lot of time setting the front end because I couldn't figure out why all my measurements were equal side to side but still had that big gap on the passenger side. Only after I did the side by side comparison did I realize why.

[TahoeTim]

kinda hard to explain but in pics 1 and 2, I was referring to adding curve rearward of the fender to match the curve at the top of the door.

[Aloha818]

kinda hard to explain but in pics 1 and 2, I was referring to adding curve rearward of the fender to match the curve at the top of the door.

If I understand your comment correctly, not really. Due to how the fender also returns on the top then to extend rearward the top of the extended fender would have to notch around the windshield frame. I don't have this gap on the drivers side, so with working within the FFR design just repairing the passenger side door is the best answer for me.

As I mentioned earlier, I really don't like how the fenders and doors fit together in the first place. I'm not sure why FFR couldn't have come up with a typical detail.

[Aloha818]

I continued work today on the doors and fenders. Pretty much finished up the passenger side and made good progress on the drivers side.

Here are some notes that I didn't mention yesterday.

My door opens to about 19" max, as measured below
image.jpg

In the next pic you can see I sanded through the gelcoat and added filler to try and "flatten" the door panel as much as possible to keep from seeing weird reflections in the black paint. I now have a gentle curve. Based on about 1/8-3/16" thick gelcoat, and that I added about 3/16" of filler at the thickest point, that's maybe a 3/8" change in about 6". Now it's about 1/8".

Then for the front of the fender to match the filler I opened the door all the way to the fender and traced a line to fill/sand to
image.jpg

Once the curves started going in opposite directions toward the top I made a line the seemed to follow the natural meeting point of both body angles.

Next I worked on the wicked nasty joint between the fender and the front bumper. Between the defect in the shape of the flare, the voids, and the severe radius, for a small area it took a bit of time. But turned out nice
image.jpg

I also had a defect in the passenger rear area of the hood. Weird lines, dips and humps. So after taking some measurements from the shape on the drivers side I re-shaped the passenger side. This pic also shows how I shaped the top rear of the fender, spacing to the windshield frame, and how the end of the hood matches.
image.jpg

Then on to the drivers side. Basically the very same challenges. Here you can see the low spots with the guide coat
image.jpg

Then another void in the gelcoat popped up
image.jpg

Almost finished today with this area, how I left for the day
image.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My door opens to about 19" max, as measured below

First, Your body work looks great, I wish I had the patience and ability to do that.

Wow, I will not be able to get out of the car if it only opens 19", so I went looking for pictures with the doors open.
20140315_110542_zpsmehwmwzx.jpg57g.jpg

This looks like much more. What is stopping your doors.Do we need to move the nose forward or the sails backward?
Bob

[Aloha818]

First, Your body work looks great, I wish I had the patience and ability to do that.

Wow, I will not be able to get out of the car if it only opens 19", so I went looking for pictures with the doors open.
20140315_110542_zpsmehwmwzx.jpg

This looks like much more. What is stopping your doors.Do we need to move the nose forward or the sails backward?
Bob

Bob, thanks for the positive feedback!

Without seeing the FFR car up close I'm not sure what they did. The tight spot for me is at the bottom of the door. This is a dimension locked in by the front bottom of the sail to the fender and the rear fitment of the door. The only variable is pushing the door skin in farther on the door frame and/or taking a way a little more of the return on the rear of the fender.

I need to take some measurements in a parking lot to be sure, but I don't think you will be able to open the doors even this wide in a typical parking spot. Due in part to the wide body and extra thick doors.

[Harley818]

I've been following your build for a while now and you have made me realize I need to up my game on the body. I really like your philosophy of making it look more like OEM, and I'm sure your patience and hard work will pay off in the final product. Yes people are reading your thread, and if they are like me..... I'm learning alot (I don't have much experience with bodywork). Thanks for the time you are spending documenting the details. Keep it up. My kit shows up on Tuesday!!!!!!

[Erik W. Treves]

THe second door opening is mine....yeah mine opened quire far. You may have installed the door skin too far outboard relative to the inner structure....or something....

[metalmaker12]

Think your quarters need to come forward to help close the gap along with what eric said and maybe playing with the fenders slightly.

Here's mine for reference:image.jpg, side profile of carimage.jpg

[Aero STI]

Your body work is outstanding. I don't have nearly as much time in my body prep work and I commend you for your patience. I look at this thread and my 818 in the garage and wish Factory Five had taken a totally different approach to how the body was made and how it went together. Fitting everything and getting gaps right is such a pain. The issues with the panels like gelcoat voids and terrible edges only compound the problems.

Having so many different fiberglass panels that change shape depending on how you store them is such a bad idea. What I would do for something as simple as an ABS front bumper that took the Camry headlights with a perfect fit.

[Aloha818]

I've been following your build for a while now and you have made me realize I need to up my game on the body. I really like your philosophy of making it look more like OEM, and I'm sure your patience and hard work will pay off in the final product. Yes people are reading your thread, and if they are like me..... I'm learning alot (I don't have much experience with bodywork). Thanks for the time you are spending documenting the details. Keep it up. My kit shows up on Tuesday!!!!!!

Thanks so much for the great comments, glad you are getting something for reading my posts?

Congratulations in advance on receiving your kit. Hope you have as much fun as I have so far.

[Aloha818]

THe second door opening is mine....yeah mine opened quire far. You may have installed the door skin too far outboard relative to the inner structure....or something....

Eric, thanks for jumping in. The fender to the side sail is a fixed point, as is the relation to the door, front to back. The only variable to getting the door to open farther is to push the door skin toward the center of the car, and/or cut more out of the fender return. I currently used the FFR body line right at the bottom of the door as the guide on where to attach the door skin to the door frame. The face of the door frame also matches the face of the fender at the bottom
image.jpg

image.jpg

This location is the pinch point for the door opening.

[Aloha818]

Think your quarters need to come forward to help close the gap along with what eric said and maybe playing with the fenders slightly.

Here's mine for reference:image.jpg, side profile of carimage.jpg

Metal, thanks for joining the conversation. I spent a fee minutes today looking at the relationship of the door to fender. As I mentioned in my reply to Eric, I have my door skin out to the body line of the sill. In comparing your photo of the return of the fender with mine you can see you have trimmed a little more off than I have and your door skin is also in a little farther.
Due to the hinge point and the length of the door, every 1/8" increase in the gap between the fender and the door lets the door open another +3".

Here is Hawaii the parking spaces are usually tighter than on the mainland. I have not really been concerned with the distance my doors open and didn't really think about until the other day when I posted. When I take the body apart for prime and paint I'm going to "move" the sill body line inboard about an 1/8" and take about 1/8" of of the fender return. This should let the door open up about 6" farther.

[Aloha818]

Your body work is outstanding. I don't have nearly as much time in my body prep work and I commend you for your patience. I look at this thread and my 818 in the garage and wish Factory Five had taken a totally different approach to how the body was made and how it went together. Fitting everything and getting gaps right is such a pain. The issues with the panels like gelcoat voids and terrible edges only compound the problems.

Having so many different fiberglass panels that change shape depending on how you store them is such a bad idea. What I would do for something as simple as an ABS front bumper that took the Camry headlights with a perfect fit.

Thanks for commenting! I agree that the panel quality is a little challenging. As I have no first hand knowledge or experience with molding fiberglass I'm not sure if what FFR produces is acceptable or not, based on the price paid.

I thought to myself today as I was rounding corners and detailing the front bumper, that this is more like art, sculpture, than bodywork. With other projects I've worked on you kind of knew what everything should look like, with the FFR panels there is a lot left to the imagination!

[Aloha818]

At the end of today I can see the end of filler and 80-180 grit sanding.

So some general information. I have about 1" of filler left in the one gallon can I bought when I started. I have used guide coat on all my sanding. With all the little variances in the body panels it has really helped my get the body "flat". It also helps keep body lines. Here is a pic of the top of the drivers fender. I sanded each side of the fender up to the body line. In the pic you can see a pretty straight black line of guide coat left.
image.jpg

This is a pic of the passenger side after I rounded off the body line a little.
image.jpg

I found two more voids in the gelcoat, it's on the bottom left and right of the opening to the radiator
image.jpg

image.jpg

On both sides I added a little filler to the front bottom of the sill/side sails. This helped a little in matching up to the fender and keeping the fender as far outbound as possible to help with the door opening
image.jpg

I finished up with matching the drivers side fender to the bumper
image.jpg

Tomorrow should be my last day of general rough prep, then disassembly for primer. I have a little more to do on the hood and re-sand the front end down from 180 to 320. Here is a side and front pic
image.jpg

image.jpg