FFRSpec72 818R Build Seattle WA

[metalmaker12]

If your getting a pedal and it is staying there than you have air. It is when you get a pedal and loose that pressure that there is an issue.

[nuisance]

Tony, when I installed my clutch, I did everything I could think of, including Sarge's tricks above, and with a pressure bleeder, and still had half a pedal, and no bubbles. I then started feeling the linkage myself, and decided it wasn't right. I pulled the fork out, and found that the throwout bearing wasn't fully snapped into the fingers (my first time with a pull type throwout bearing). When I snapped it in then everything was good. I did not need to pull the tranny to do this.

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, when I installed my clutch, I did everything I could think of, including Sarge's tricks above, and with a pressure bleeder, and still had half a pedal, and no bubbles. I then started feeling the linkage myself, and decided it wasn't right. I pulled the fork out, and found that the throwout bearing wasn't fully snapped into the fingers (my first time with a pull type throwout bearing). When I snapped it in then everything was good. I did not need to pull the tranny to do this.

So do I pull off the fork boot and look inside ? I don't think that I could get the fork out as I had a hard time to change the throw out bearing as it was (maybe it was just the throw out bearing that had an issue). So I imagine I take off starter, remove hex bolt and then take out that fork shaft and pull the fork out and then see if the TOB is set in the clutch fingers correctly and then reassemble ?

[nuisance]

Take the fork boot off. Now I can't remember if the fork came out, or if I just stuck a lever in there and pushed the TOB forward. The throwout bearing should be snapped into the clutch fingers. You should not be able to slide it rearward at all.

[FFRSpec72]

I had some time this weekend, I welded in the tabs for the fire nozzles and the corner workers emergency pull.

Put 3 nozzles in the rear, one in the center to cover the front of engine, one to cover turbo, one to cover fuel lines

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2 nozzles in the cockpit area, one on steering column to cover lower torso, one on side to cover upper torso

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one in fuel cell area

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emergency pull for corner workers

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[Steve Powell]

Dude, is that fire pull handle on the passengers side? Can you reach it from the drivers seat while belted in? If you're on fire you don't want to be waiting for those corner workers to show up. Never mind I see you have two pull handles......................

[FFRSpec72]

Harley, thanks for the pics, do you have a pic of your throttle body warm up bypass ?


Also looks like I will need to mod the shock tower brace as my waste gate will hit

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[Harley818]

Now that I took off the air-air IC, I should be able to get a pic for you.
Where did you get the adapter for the oil port to oil pressure gauge that you showed me? Do you have part no & source?

Check post #451 on Andrew & Tamras build thread to see the brace mod that they did. You don't need to cut that much, and if I were you I would just double up the bottom tube and cut out what you need to clear the turbo wastegate. I think Sponagule also did a similar mod.

[FFRSpec72]

Spent some more time today, I refitted most of the body, more fine tuning as it goes to painter 1st week of March. I fitted the rear deck lids and decided just to use the hood pins no hinges for now. I may switch to mini latches but that should be no real big deal to switch. I'm using the VRaptor rear deck mounts, fully adjustable as they support the body and also the hood pins. I have more fitting to do but so far i'm happy with the gaps with the rear panels/lids, the height of the various panels still has a long way to go before they are acceptable.

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[C.Plavan]

Harley, thanks for the pics, do you have a pic of your throttle body warm up bypass ?


Also looks like I will need to mod the shock tower brace as my waste gate will hit

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I would try and loosen the motor and trans mounts and nudge the motor/trans forward. There is some wiggle room there. Its easier to do when putting the motor in. No need to cut/weld. Both my TD04 and Blouch have plenty of room with the Group N mounts.

[FFRSpec72]

I would try and loosen the motor and trans mounts and nudge the motor/trans forward. There is some wiggle room there. Its easier to do when putting the motor in. No need to cut/weld. Both my TD04 and Blouch have plenty of room with the Group N mounts.

Thanks for the suggestion, I hooked up the hoist and tried to nudge the engine/transmission forward but I'm also up against the transmission mount not having any more movement backwards for the passenger side, it bought me a little more room but the waste gate still hits and will not fully operate.

[FFRSpec72]

I found some time over the weekend, so I attempted to bleed the brakes, well I had a leak it was in 2 cheap couplers I bout from Autozone, and as it figures was in a very hard to reach spot (in the console tunnel), so once I changed out the couplers (hours later) I had no issues, so I now have a solid brake pedal.

I also found some time to install the oil cooler and the remote oil filter, decided to install on passenger side, this is a puller fan, I also hope to catch some air from the side of the car, now to plumb up the oil cooler. So I put the side panel on to make sure I had the clearance and that I would catch the air, the mount is welded to the frame and sticks out just a tad over 3" from the side of the frame. I wanted the oil filter in a spot where I could change w/o removing the under the frame/engine panel and close to the oil cooler and engine block off plate.

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[FFRSpec72]

Oil pressure sender (remote), will go in the galley and replace the galley plug (galley plug with 1/8" NPT, 1/8" NPT coupler, grease gun hose, sender)

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Fire system ready to install the nozzles now, AFFF 4.0L system with 6 nozzles and 2 activation pulls (one for me, one for corner workers)

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[FFRSpec72]

I also switched over to the group N motor and transmission mounts (I guess I should have done this before as it was just a little awkward doing this after engine and transmission were in car)

[FFRSpec72]

It's been a while since I have had some time to woirk on 818. I gave up overthinking this an decided to go with what I had for exhaust (AJW Exhaust) so installed the exhaust, rear exhaust louvers (from VRaptor), rear lights, mounted the rear back panel to frame

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[FFRSpec72]

Had a day to spend over the weekend, so I installed the Crawford Air-oil-separator and the Killer-B Oil Control Valve, thanks to Mitch it's all mounted and plumbed. I had to het it high enough so that it would drain back to crankcase, so had to go in one of one the humps. Only thing left to plumb is the AOS to the OCV as I did not have a 12AN nipple fitting.

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