Hindsight's build thread

[UnhipPopano]

One question I have about reinforcing the rear hatch, why is the aluminum for the humps not attached?

[Hindsight]

I do have a solution for hold-down pins and hinges - pics are a couple pages back in the thread. It is working really well for now though I must admit I got the idea from several others. I think AZPete for the DIY hinges and Wayne for the hidden thumb-screw mount of the engine cover instead of more hood pins.

The aluminum for the jumps isn't attached simply because I haven't gotten to it yet. It is on the punch list, but I just got them back from the powder coater recently and I wanted to wait to install them until the engine cover hump vents (from Mechie) are installed. Those are still at the powder coater. The hump aluminum rivets to the frame and not the engine cover so it will add some stiffness to the engine cover while it's down but not up.

You think I could get away with switching from 1x2 balsa strips to 1/2" x 2"? Or possibly polyurethane foam of the same size? I haven't worked with foam much and don't have a hot wire so I'd have to cut it with a utility knife or table saw.

[UnhipPopano]

Yes, a thinner strip would work. Consider the effect of attaching the aluminum to the hump cover. It may make the cover ridged enough that the strip is not needed.

[AZPete]

I'm watching this thread carefully because I'd like to stiffen my hood also. I'm planning to get the hood positioned with the new fenders, then remove the fenders and clamp balsa /epoxy to the edges of the hood. The hood should retain its curve because it would be held by ZBD hinge at the front and latches (or pins) at the rear. Once the balsa/epoxy is set on the edges, I'll remove the hood which should retain its curve, so I can add balsa/epoxy in the middle of the hood, then re-install with fenders. At least, that's my plan. With your recent experience, do you think it might work?

Also, under the rear edge of the engine cover I just mounted a 1-inch steel angle from side to side with threaded studs. I thought the engine cover was straight, with no bow, but now I've removed the engine cover to mount the hard top so I can't photo it.

[Hindsight]

Hey Pete - I do believe your proposed method should work great - I had never thought of removing the fenders to get access. The only issue is you will want to add some cross braces too. The only way you could do that with clamps is by removing the windshield (or if you haven't installed it yet).

Regarding the rear engine cover: I don't know for sure that it's supposed to be curved but looking at the trunk cover, and looking at the way the edges contact the side sails, it seems to be that it should be curved. Not a lot, but some. It also helps add some engine clearance.

I ordered some polyurethane foam from Aircraft Spruce, 1/2" thickness. I'm going to do the hood and trunk lid with it. I'll post pics.

[AZPete]

Oops, I hadn't thought about the side-to-side curve of the hood and I really don't want to remove the entire hard top/windshield. So, you are right and I'll rethink it. Thanks.

[Hindsight]

I'll make sure to document the entire process with pics, including the gel coat hole fill-in and polishing out.

[Hindsight]

Center console is coming along - slowly. I am waiting for some more aluminum to come in so I can make the sides for it and finish it off. I'm going to have custom leather boots made for the e-brake and shifter made. The seat bolsters intruding into the center tunnel area has made this a bit more complicated.

[Frank818]

This console looks a lot more "installable" than the FFR one.

[Hindsight]

I've decided to give foam a try on the hood, instead of balsa. Foam is more flexible when installing. I have purchased some 1/2" thick polyurethane foam from Aircraft Spruce, and will also try some pink 3/4" foam board insulation from HD or Lowes (both are epoxy safe). I THINK the foam is flexible enough (unlike balsa) that I can cut some small 1"x1" squares of VHB tape (a couple folks mentioned VHB tape previously), and attach them every couple of feet on the back side of the foam strips I cut (which will be 2" wide). I can then spread epoxy thickened with cabosil on the back side of the foam, ensuring I don't get any on the tape and leave the tape a little room around the edges, then push it onto the hood and press from underneath while the hood is mounted. Hopefully that will hold well enough while the epoxy cures.

Going to be a few weeks before I get to that though because I want to finish the center console, switches, and gauges first.

[Frank818]

Pix of that foam?

[Hindsight]

This is the pink stuff from the hardware store: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Cor...-37L/100320340

This is the stuff I ordered from Aircraft Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ethanefoam.php

I found out today that the stuff from Aircraft Spruce has a 25psi compression and the pink stuff is 15psi. I think the loads will be low enough that either should be more than adequate.

[BC Huselton]

Suggest you check out Fiberglast.com and their DiviniCell products. This stuff is great for adding structure. BTW, when I tried the Pink insulation the resin ate right through it. You can use the pink foam for making shapes if you cover it with foil tape and release wax.

[Hindsight]

Thanks for the suggestion. The pink foam won't melt when using epoxy but will when using polyester resin. I only use epoxy. However, that said, I found out from another forum member that the pink insulation foam just isn't stiff enough to provide enough structure. He suggested PVC foam. I took a look at the DiviniCell and it is the same thing he suggested. Thanks again for the input!

Oh yeah - which density do you like? 3lb, 4lb, 5lb, etc.

[BC Huselton]

What you select depends on the structural regiditiy you want. as an Example, I used 3lb to reinforce the hood to prevent it from being "limp!" Cut 2" holes every 3" centers and laid Fiberglass Chopped mat over it making sure the glass and resin dropped down into the space to bond with the hood's current surface.

I used 4lb to reshape the rear bumper to create a space for the tail shaft of my 6 speed. The FFR Rear bumper is approximately 1" too short for the 6 speed. This also took the "Limp" our of the rear bumper, without the addition of much weight. Fiberglast has great instructional videos as well.

[Hindsight]

Suggest you check out Fiberglast.com and their DiviniCell products. This stuff is great for adding structure. BTW, when I tried the Pink insulation the resin ate right through it. You can use the pink foam for making shapes if you cover it with foil tape and release wax.

So I ordered and received the DiviniCell as suggested and it is DEFINITELY the right stuff. Super hard, light, and flexes enough to be easy to work with. Much better than balsa or the other foams I have wasted money on. Thank you BC Huselton and also MikeInAtlanta for the tip.

[Frank818]

I'm taking notes, here!

Pix once you can, pix!

[Hindsight]

I'll post pictures for sure Frank. We'll see which route is better - VHB tape or temporary bolts to hold the foam in place while the initial thickened epoxy cures. I need to finish my console and do a few other things like retrofitting projectors (safety issue), and adding a cover panel for the ECUs so they don't get wet, before adding bracing so it could be a while before I get to it.

In other news, it's been over two weeks since I submit my application for title and vin to the state. I called them this morning to get an update and they said they have no record of my application, but probably wouldn't until they begin processing it at around four weeks after I dropped it off and it could take another two weeks for me to receive the title and vin after that, so that is a full month and a half. It is really killing me to be watching summer go by with a perfectly driveable car just sitting in the garage. I guess, two weeks down, four more to go, hopefully.

[Hindsight]

Finished the front portion of the center console. Dual zone air intake temp gauge and AFR gauge in there. Emergency flasher on the top left. I still need to add the sides to it, and then add the top tunnel cover which is cut-out now but needs a hole cut into it and a cell-phone cubby added in. Have additional gauges that will get mounted into the dash.

[Frank818]

Ok, now THAT's awesome! What a console! Just don't mistakenly switch the fuel rocker switch.

You seem to have the same IC temps gauge. Ebay?

[Hindsight]

Thanks Frank. The fuel switch is actually not going to be wired in - I'm still using the factory variable voltage fuel pump controller for now. When I upgrade the turbo, pump, and injectors to run E85 at some point, I will need to hard-wire the fuel pump and will use this switch to control a relay. Or maybe I will get too nervous and put it somewhere else more hidden and hard to accidentally hit! The diag switch replaces the "green test connector" that Subie guys have to keep connecting and disconnecting when flashing their ECU. Much easier to have a switch vs fiddling with connectors up under the dash. That's not a problem you need to solve though :P

Yeah, I got the IC gauge on eBay. Works fine so far. I think it's the same one ProSport sells, but cheaper than their version. It was fun watching it during dyno tuning.

[Hindsight]

Well, I signed up for a 3-day long HPDE event at Road Atlanta at the end of August. I REALLY wanted to shake the car out on the street first to help ensure any track time I purchased would not end up being a waste of money, but who knows how long it's going to take for me to get my title and vin and the event is pretty unique so I'm going to give it a shot. I'll probably do the uhaul truck/trailer rental.... again.

This means I need to shift my focus a bit on my to-do list. I only have one or two weekends where I will be free between now and the event so need to make the best use of them. Modifying the upper control arms, doing another alignment, and making some exhaust changes move to the top of the list.

[mikeb75]

Can't wait to hear your report on the track session! Very nice job on the dash also.

[Frank818]

Have a nice track session man!

About the IC gauge, you got it black or painted it? Mine came light grey, was the only color. I will paint it but still.

[Hindsight]

Thanks MikeB.... the pressure to succeed is building lol.

Frank, mine came light grey as well so I carefully masked it and spray painted it gloss black. Turned out ok I think.

[mikeb75]

Thanks MikeB.... the pressure to succeed is building lol.

Sure, but the only measure of success should be having fun!

[Hindsight]

Thanks Mike, I agree. I am planning on recording the racing with a gopro so I should have some footage to share if everything works out well. I will also take a lot of pics of the event because it looks pretty cool. Time attack, HPDE, car show, music, drifting, etc. Drifting isn't really my thing but it can be an ok distraction between other events.

Had a busy weekend so didn't get to spend as much time as I would have liked but I removed the dash to update the wiring for the gauges and switches so everything was in the proper place. I also added the block-off plate that seals the frame to the windshield frame. Even with that blockoff plate in place, there are huge gaps on either side of it that will allow hot air from behind the radiator to enter the cabin. Oh well. To get extra stability for the dash, I added three small 1" square pieces of double sided tape to the bottom of the dash where it rests on the fiberglass windshield frame (one on left, right, and center). This really stiffens the dash up and gives it extra strength for putting a helmet on top. I only have the two bottom mounts from FFR and even with just those two + tape, its very strong and stable.

I need to finish off the center console by adding sides to it, and wrapping up the tunnel cover but that should be quick. Then I will update the exhaust so my tip comes around the bottom of the bumper where the indent is for the diffuser (I'm not running a diffuser now) and then points slightly up and toward the right (like an FD RX7 exhaust kind of). Then re-do the alignment for the track. I am on super sticky street compound tires (Dunlup Z2 star specs) and am going to shoot for 3.5 to 4 degree caster, 1/16" front toe in, 2 degrees negative camber front and rear, and 3/16" rear toe in. Need to remove the springs and jack the wheel/tire up and down to ensure I have no rubbing.

I will be trailering the 818 to the race on a u-haul flatbed car trailer. I'm nervous about getting it on the trailer. I was able to do it before, but that was before the body was on. I jack the front of the trailer up as high as I can but it's still bottomed out when going from ramp to bed.

Will post a pic of the console when all the pieces are done - hopefully this weekend.

[RetroRacing]

We have some slotted blocks that we insert between the top of the spring and the spring perch when the car is jacked up and in full droop, should raise the car about an inch to help get it into the trailer. Worked for us and we have an extended front splitter.

[Hindsight]

Wow, great idea. I never would have thought of that.

I just went out and checked and on mine, my springs are still under some compression (small, but some) when the suspension is at full droop. This is with the S shock and spring setup so the S springs must be longer than the R or something.

[Scargo]

For my STi, with a low front splitter, I have ramp extensions I made from 2X10's. On one end is a plywood box that the stock ramp feet sit on, that raises it about six inches. I have a Featherlite trailer but the principle is the same for a rental (which I used to do). The box captures the ramp end so nothing can skid or move. The additional ten feet works for me once I jack up the front of the trailer like you mentioned.
Good luck with the racing. I'm a ways off with my R. I hope to be testing in the spring.

[Hindsight]

Thx Glyn. Do you have a pic of the 2x10? What supports them mid-span?

[metros]

All that hard work about to pay off!

How much track experience do you have pre-818?

[Hindsight]

Did a number of HPDE days back around 2000 with the Cascade Sports Car Club at PIR. Been a while but I am sure things are the same.

[metros]

What were you driving then? Curious how big of a difference it will be. Trying to live vicariously through you.

[Hindsight]

1983 Rabbit GTI with an engine swap out of a 1990 Corrado. I had suspension an big brakes. ~160hp and 2150lbs. The 818 is going to be night and day different! A beast compared to the FWD rabbit. I plan on taking it real easy the first day.

[Frank818]

Good ol' VWs!

[metros]

Cool, have fun!

[Hindsight]

Well, today marks 4 weeks ago that I submit my application to the state for a vin and title so I can drive on the street. Haven't heard a word back. I was told 4-6 weeks originally. So I called them today to check the status. They told me they don't see anything in the system for me yet (which means they haven't started processing it) and then told me the process takes 6 to 8 weeks. So it looks like I may end up having to wait another month, which puts me out into fall. Ah well. I guess on the bright side, Georgia usually has pretty awesome weather right up until around January 1st. By March it's nice again. Trying to be patient and stay positive.

In the meantime, I have been making a little bit of progress, checking things off the punch list. Mostly focused on the console recently. The forward portion of the console is now complete, and all the wiring has been shortened/lengthened as needed to install gauges and switches in the dash and console. All the gauges and switches now work. The console sides are made of plain aluminum panels that I cut to shape and bolt to the tunnel. The lower section is carpeted, and the upper piece is covered with carbon fiber vinyl wrap. All are attached using self-drilling washer flange screws from mcmaster. I added a cell phone cubby to the forward part of the tunnel cover, and I welded up a cubby box out of aluminum and then painted the inside of it with Herculiner. It looked like CRAP!!!! The herculiner, when dry, has a very glossy oily look with very uneven texture. This is a bad contrast against the lighter satin consistent pattern of the carbon fiber so I'm going to do another box and probably just plastidip it black. I wanted a rubbery coating in it so it wouldn't chip, unlike paint. Then I just need to make and install the sides for the tunnel cover and the console will be done until I can have the e-brake and shift boot custom made for me. I'll also need to fabricate a trim ring for those boots too - will probably use aluminum, or will 3D print it and then vinyl wrap it.

Regarding the Herculiner, I was going to use that on the underside of my body panels but I don't like the shiny un-even texture so I may choose something else but I'm not sure what.

Brakes. My pads seemed to be bed but I didn't like the performance of them at all. They were new Hawk HPS. It's possible that I didn't bed them long enough but that's hard to do on the street with no license plate and I was getting nervous about the upcoming track day so I replaced all front and rear with Ferodo DS2500. I also bit the bullet and fixed something I broke over a year ago..... While replacing the rear wheel bearings before installing the rear spindles, I couldn't figure out how to support the spindle while pressing out the hubs. I ended up bending the backing plate, which I saw was happening but wasn't concerned with because it's only a backing plate and can be bent back into shape right? Wrong - I had forgotten that the Subie rear calipers are bolted to the backing plate instead of the spindle directly. Never seen that on the cars I've worked on in the past. So after that, the calipers were not centered on the rotor nor were they perfectly parallel with the rotor. Solution was to, of course, get new backing plates, new bearings, and new seals. Total pain but worth it to have perfectly working brakes. This time around, I used a slide hammer to pull the hub while the spindle was still attached to the car (but the axle pushed out of it). Once the hub is out, you can remove the spindle and press the bearing out, and the new bearing in, and the hub back in all outside the car on a hydraulic press. I did the free loan-a-tool thing through Autozone for the slide hammer, and bought two 1/2" washers from lowes which I then drilled out to 5/8" ID. Their OD is perfect to rest on the back of the wheel hub, but small enough to clear the bearing around it.

Still need to fab up a new exhaust, modify the upper a-arms so I can get more caster and camber, and re-do the alignment before the upcoming HDPE day.

[BC Huselton]

Consider Lizard Skin and or SEM Rockit. SEM finish is a very uniform texture and actually hides the fiberglass mesh surface. Better bonding properties as well and more $. Lizard skin is paintable and the Ceramic style manages the heat in the motor area along with sound.

[Scargo]

It's been my experience that Hawk HPS pads won't hold up to serious track work. I like Hawk and it's about all I've run but I use their DTC series, their real race pads.