2 piece dash panel question.

[wallace18]

I thought I read some where that some have made or bought a 2 piece dash panel. I can see how that would be much easier to work on wiring and gauges. Do you just shear the panel at the 90 degree bend or do you make or purchase a new 2 piece unit? Thanks.

[STLMARSHALL]

Cut behind the cross support and rivet in a piece of aluminum. Drill the aluminum piece and install rivet nuts.

[Rodster]

I used my trusty Makita jig saw, and cut it at the bend. Not sure if this will work, since I am still building. Others have cut their dash - check Chris's site - awesome reference for the entire Coupe build. THANKS to Chris B. Also good are posts from Fluge.

http://wayne-yoshida-kh6wz.com/2013/...attery-ectomy/

and

https://www.flickr.com/photos/51103049@N00/collections/

and

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...s-Build-Thread

[wallace18]

Thanks guys. Great ideas.

[CJBergquist]

YES...do a two piece dash. I cut mine about 2" from the bend. I used a sheet metal roller tool to put a 3/4" flange on the 2" piece so the top would sit flush on the 2" piece. I don't have a good photo but if you look close at the finished dash you can see how it sits flush.

[IMG]IMG_7118 by cbergquist1, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_0186 by cbergquist1, on Flickr[/IMG]

[loeffler1]

I did mine slightly different, cut about 1" from the bend so it sits on dash crosspiece and fastenen with rivnuts. Discarded the forward piece and nade a new one about 1/4" wider than the dash so it slightly overhangs the dash and then upholstered with 1/4" padding and Mercedes Benz vinyl material. Made 4 aluminum clips at the forward end to catch the fiberglass body and fastened the rear with 4 SS screws and finish washers across the top.

[loeffler1]

Oh, and I finished the metal area where the gauges mount with wrinkle black powder coat.

[ron stebles]

Since I like to keep things simple I just cut the dash at the bend. I installed nutserts on the front and top of the square tube and screwed the two pieces to the tube with 8-32 button heads. The top piece has the bubble seal on the front and is plenty secure. The two piece dash was recommended by Russ Thompson early on and was easy and very helpful.

[wallace18]

IMG_0729.JPGIMG_0731.JPGIMG_0732.JPGI ended up cutting it 2" back and using a combination of rivets and riv-nuts. Thanks to all for their input.

[CHOTIS BILL]

Oh, and I finished the metal area where the gauges mount with wrinkle black powder coat.

Bill, I was thinking along the some lines with the top piece extending rearward past the front of the dash. You extended yours ¼” would extending it further to help shade the gauges be possible? If it can extend further how much further would be safe to go without running into issues of hitting your knuckles when making turns.

Thanks,

Bill Lomenick

[loeffler1]

Bill

In answer to your question, the best I can do is direct you to FFR site. Click on News + Events tab, scroll to bottom, click on page 3 and scroll down to 8th item "Bill L graduates Type 65 Coupe #421". Scroll down to 4th picture and you'll see dash closeup. I added a shield, also powder coated wrinkle black, over the instruments tucking it just below the 1/4" lip which can be seen. As can be seen the upper dash piece is covered in Mercedes Benz leather like material. I also adjusted the steering wheel out just enough to keep knuckles from dragging. 5,000 miles later and no issues other than switching wood wheel to leather wrapped one. This wheel is larger in diameter and helps tremendously without power steering and gives a better grip. I also did away with the removeable steering wheel hub as I have trained myself to slide into the seat without having to remove the steering wheel. I did this mostly to remove the slop from these splines which was most disconcerting at 70 on the interstate with 1/2" steering wheel play from side to side. I hope this answers your question.

[CHOTIS BILL]

Thanks for the info.

Bill Lomenick