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LS3 dimmer switch and throttle petal
Hey all you Ls3 fans. I am having a tuff time with the wiring for my Ls3 to FFR wiring harness. First, was the headlight dimmer switch included with the kit. If not which one is the best one to use. Second, how is the Z-rod throttle petal mounted under the dash. There just isn't enough room, the petal hits the floor pan. Third, how do I wire the gages to the motor. The motor wiring harness uses the know outlets for the oil and water.
Lastly, what mounts and brackets is everyone using to mount the A/C compressor and the Alternator.
Thanks for the help, Larry
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Will I guess no one has had any problems with either the dimmer for the headlights or the Ls3 throttle.
Thanks anyway, Larry
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Larry,
I removed the bracket that came on the LS3 pedal. I used a piece of aluminum angle to bolt it to the frame rails on the firewall. I moved it up as high as I could - it hits the frame brackets where the brake master cylinders bolt in. I also sanded off about 1" on the bottom of the pedal so it clears floor/carpet. I think you could move it up higher and deeper if you mount it closer to the trans tunnel and you can bend the metal arm to clear your tunnel. I'm short so I didn't need to do that.
I used the dimmer switch from the kit. I kept the factory fuse box for all the wiring of the lights. I also switched to Speedhut gauges. I used standard gauges for Speedometer/Tach /Fuel. For Oil Press/Water Temp and volts I used CAN-Bus gauges that tie together and run off two wires from the LS harness. It was pretty self explanatory in their directions. I also ran the tach off the LS harness again following Speedhut directions for programming and it works well. A slight lag compared to tachs I've hooked up to traditional coils but for street driving it's just fine. I think the stock gauges are Autometer? - maybe you can call them to get an idea how to wire into the LS harness.
The Speedhut gauges came with their own dimmer so I don't need the dimmer on the stock switch. I just use it to turn on the lights. It can also be used to turn on courtesy lights if you need to.
I made custom brackets for both alternator and A/C compressor and mounted them both low on the motor next to the frame. I used the stock LS3 tensioner. Some have had luck with stock alternator brackets that mount it high on drivers side. Do a search on the other forum too. Lots of info there.
Good Luck!
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LS3 Alternator Mount
I used a steel plate that I cut up and smoothed out and mounted it to the block with stainless steel rod and nuts. I got the idler pulleys from Amazon. You can also see the AC compressor squeezed in there. That was not easy....
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Silent T, Thanks for the info and pictures, Larry
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Senior Member
Larry, many guys are using the dimmer button replacement for the tilt switch on your column...I know I am. If you use it make sure you fish a wire up through your column to aid in threading it through. Do a search for dimmer.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/idt-3100030030
Jack
FFR HR #530
Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,
My build blog:
http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/
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I ordered one today. Thanks for the tip.
Larry
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Silent T, How did you get the AC unit and the alternator in that area. Plus what AC compressor and alternator did you use.
Thanks, Larry
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