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Thread: Ford 8.8" rear end and linkage

  1. #1
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    Ford 8.8" rear end and linkage

    image.jpg

    Using a Ford Racing rear end can I attach the top long to its pumpkin instead of using the bolt on adapter?

  2. #2
    cobra Handler skullandbones's Avatar
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    I believe you would be seriously out of alignment for your third link if I understand you correctly. I'm assuming you are talking about a FFR three link and the adaptor that is about 9 inches long which attaches to the axle tube. Please disregard if that is not the case.

    WEK.
    FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046

  3. #3
    Mark Dougherty's Avatar
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    nope
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  4. #4
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    WEK. That's exactly what I was referring to. Are you saying left to right it'd be out of alignment? If so I figured I could ask FF to center the bracket more. Otherwise couldn't I just shorten the link?

    Mark. Care to elaborate?

    Either way your answers are a lot better than the lack of response I've received by attempting direct contact through email to FF.

  5. #5
    cobra Handler skullandbones's Avatar
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    Hiram,

    I have a roadster but I answered because I think the applications are very similar. You don't have a lot of wiggle room under there. I designed a third link that goes over the pumpkin but uses the stock Mustang ears from the 4 link which you don't have. The other thing that makes it difficult is that where the Ford ear is located is too far forward so your third link would be very short. It should be about 11+ inches. If you could attach the third link on a cross member behind the diff, it might work. The main reason I designed mine symmetrically (in the center) was to get equal side to side geometry when the diff moves. I hope you are able to figure it out but my opinion is that it won't work as you originally described. Sorry.

    WEK.
    FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046

  6. #6
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    Thanks WEK. Yeah, it's hard to visualize without having the parts collocated first. Whatever comes of it, I'll definately be posting on it.

  7. #7
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    I think I found what I was looking for. Now the question is would FF mount the bracket where I need it. Hmm...

    image.jpg

  8. #8
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    Do they consider a Ford 8.8" to be a Ford 9 ? Sometimes, I see them advertized as a "9", but I don't know if that's the same as an 8.8. Please advise.

  9. #9
    Senior Member maczter's Avatar
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    No, completely different...an 8.8 is NOT a 9".
    FFR HR #530
    Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,

    My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/

  10. #10
    Senior Member jayguy's Avatar
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    Biggest visual difference is the 9" rear end has a smooth back cover that's part of the overall case, and the gearing is all bolted into the front carrier, which is ribbed.
    (images from fairlaneforums user punkur67)
    IMAG0043.jpg21562d1332556349-rebuilt-rear-end-custom-brakes-imag0044.jpg

    The 8.8" has a bolt-on back cover, and the gears bolt into the case. The back cover can be painted, chrome, ribbed aluminum, etc. since it is just a cover that bolts on.
    (images from ls1tech forum user tails8 - thread about putting an LS1 in an FFR)
    RearAxle_5.4.08_006_resized.jpgRearEnd_5.2.08_resized.jpg

    There are many other differences between the two. Which one is best for your build is relative to what you plan to do with it once it's done, but wikipedia is a good place to start to learn the mechanical differences.

  11. #11
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    The pinion is slightly lower on the 9" relative to axle center so it will hit the 33 chassis quicker under suspension droop especially if you raise the ride height at all from the FF 4.5" setting
    Either way I suggest limit straps to protect the driveshaft from damage from the chassis< it is very close there.

    There are several of us that needed more ground clearance and have raised the car. Mine is a full fender and running board car which ends up at 3.25"
    under the running boards when the chassis is at 4.5" Couple that with the 112" wheelbase and it wouldn't go in my driveway at any angle.
    DB

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