Fryguy's 818R with 2004 STI Donor Build Thread

[fryguy]

Another Seattle 818R build here. I posted a couple threads related to issues I was having, but figured it is time to create a build thread. I have learned a lot from others' threads. Hopefully my thread returns the favor.



I ordered the frame unpainted since I figured I would need to make a few modifications. Boy was I right. I have already done a lot of cutting, welding, and grinding.

My kit options are:

• CF Race Splitter
• CF Rocker Panels
• CF Rear Diffuser
• 6-Speed

My donor is a 2004 STI that I had tracked for over 10 years (original owner). It was a bit bored with it and needed to spend a little on some maintenance. So I talked myself into doing the 818R instead . I knew going into this that the 6-speed will present some challenges. My old STI also had upgraded knuckles for 5x114, too. Basically 2005-2007 knuckles. This will require some modifications, too.

The initial plan was to get started with mounting the motor and trans in the chassis and modifying the 6-speed. Unfortunately, I ran into issues with the 6-speed conversion. Moved on to the interior modifications.

[fryguy]

Got a lot of work done on mounting seats, figuring out the harnesses, and mounting the ktuned shifter.
If you try to center your seat to use the FFR eye bolt brackets, it does not line up with the steering column. So I cut out the inside eye bolt bracket. I also cut out the front eye bolt bracket since it doesn’t work with my sparco seat and blocks the slider. I relocated the inside eye bolt bracket further inside and placed some plates under the seat for the sub eye bolts.



After doing all of this and feeling proud of myself, I discover the FFR harness bar will not work for me. It is not wide enough (to the inside). And it is probably too high. So I cut them out. I’ll need to use the square tubing for the shoulder harnesses.



Next, I’ll need to figure out how to notch the firewall for the harnesses.





Also cut the tunnel frame since it really isn’t needed for the 818R. I don’t plan on using any of the tunnel aluminum. The tunnel frame is just long enough mount and locate the ktuned shifter.

[FFRSpec72]

Jeff, looking good, a couple of questions

1. Why did you cut out the floor that FFR welded in ?
2. What are you doing about a seat back brace ?
3. Going to run a fuel cell in the passenger side or behind the seat ?

[Santiago]

Looks nice Jeff! I'm not seeing a cut-out floor though. Am I missing something?

I haven't fitted my seats yet (could have something to do with not having them), but I am worried that the supplied harness bar isn't going to work well for the same reasons you indicated. BTW, I think it's Rasmus's build thread that has a firewall modification done to clear the shoulder webbing. See here. I thought he had more on this, but that was all I saw in a quick search.

Best,
-j

[FFRSpec72]

I'm not seeing a cut-out floor though. Am I missing something?

In front of the seat (where your feet go), looks like Jeff cut out the 16 gauge floor that FFR puts in

[C.Plavan]

You do not need a seat back brace if the seat is against the firewall (The firewall is plenty strong). I just got 2015 NASA tech'd without one. They even pointed out I did not need one without me mentioning anything. They did not like the roll bar design than much though.....

Is FFR supplying sub mount, mounts now? Even if a little off centered it not a big deal. The sub mount (6 pts) are individually adjustable.

You will probably need to lower your seat even more. Throw your helmet on and try the broomstick test if you have not already. My seat is much lower that yours, and I had to buy a super thin seat cushion to get low enough to feel comfortable. I'm 5"11".

Nice to see another R built on the West Coast.

[C.Plavan]

In front of the seat (where your feet go), looks like Jeff cut out the 16 gauge floor that FFR puts in

His floors are still there in the pictures.

[FFRSpec72]

You do not need a seat back brace if the seat is against the firewall (The firewall is plenty strong). I just got 2015 NASA tech'd without one. They even pointed out I did not need one without me mentioning anything.

I have been through this one with the local conference league and I had to install a seat back brace, they would not accept the "against the firewall" but they had no issues with the cage (go figure), every tech has their own quarks.

[fryguy]

1. Why did you cut out the floor that FFR welded in ?

Chad answered this one. When I emailed you about your seat mounting, I was going to weld in a full rear floor, but then calculated a weight difference of ~25lbs for the driver and passenger. So went with just the 2" width plates instead.

2. What are you doing about a seat back brace ?

So these are the Sparco PRO-ADV seats and they are FIA 8855-1999. So per the SCCA rules, I think I am okay (for 5 years). If anyone thinks otherwise, please let me know now.

3. Going to run a fuel cell in the passenger side or behind the seat ?

I am actually going to use the Harmon fuel cell you're using although I have not ordered it yet. At this point, I am leaning towards not bending the firewall to get the extra space.

[C.Plavan]

Yep- You are all good with those seats. My seat is FIA also, but over 5 years old.

Go for a bigger oil cooler than the original one I bought. I have the dual fan Setrab 9 series coming. (16" long). I'm going to play with different mounting areas.

[fryguy]

You do not need a seat back brace if the seat is against the firewall (The firewall is plenty strong). I just got 2015 NASA tech'd without one. They even pointed out I did not need one without me mentioning anything. They did not like the roll bar design than much though.....

Is FFR supplying sub mount, mounts now? Even if a little off centered it not a big deal. The sub mount (6 pts) are individually adjustable.

You will probably need to lower your seat even more. Throw your helmet on and try the broomstick test if you have not already. My seat is much lower that yours, and I had to buy a super thin seat cushion to get low enough to feel comfortable. I'm 5"11".

Nice to see another R built on the West Coast.

Thanks for pointing that out. I'm 5'7", but the seat is still too high.

[FFRSpec72]

His floors are still there in the pictures.

I guess I'm going blind as it looks like no floor, must be because there is no powder coating, so much for my eye test ! I might have to move to a bigger oil cooler as I have just the single fan SETRAB, but will have to see how it performs in the location I have it as there are not many places to put the oil cooler and have it get fresh air.

[fryguy]

Looks nice Jeff! I'm not seeing a cut-out floor though. Am I missing something?

I haven't fitted my seats yet (could have something to do with not having them), but I am worried that the supplied harness bar isn't going to work well for the same reasons you indicated. BTW, I think it's Rasmus's build thread that has a firewall modification done to clear the shoulder webbing. See here. I thought he had more on this, but that was all I saw in a quick search.

Best,
-j

Yeah, I saw this thread and I am glad he posted the dimensions. I am not sure if I want to bend the tab like he did o just cut it out (and put an edge trim on it).

[fryguy]

Got my driver’s seat lowered and tilted back. I dropped the butt all the way down and tilted back about 20 degrees. Also, had to slide the seat way back almost up against the firewall. I’m 5’7″ and was surprised how tight it is to make the clearance requirements. I still have the sliders, but it seems rather pointless since I am already back up against the firewall.



Tilting back allowed me to clear that front crossbar.

[Kurk818]

Nice to see another local 818. Are you actually in Seattle or the surrounding suburbs?

[Mitch Wright]

I am 5'8" and with the FFR tank I have the flat of the Kirkey seat on the floor, that gave me 2.5" to the broom stick with a helmet on.

[fryguy]

Nice to see another local 818. Are you actually in Seattle or the surrounding suburbs?

I am up in Bothell. But my parents are in Spanaway and the in-laws are in Puyallup, so we're down in your neck of the woods often.

[Kurk818]

Very cool. We'll have to meet up once they're both operational. Do you plan on making yours street legal like Tony? FFRSpec

[FFRSpec72]

Got my driver’s seat lowered and tilted back. I dropped the butt all the way down and tilted back about 20 degrees. Also, had to slide the seat way back almost up against the firewall. I’m 5’7″ and was surprised how tight it is to make the clearance requirements. I still have the sliders, but it seems rather pointless since I am already back up against the firewall.

You are quite close ! I moved the firewall back because of this issue

[fryguy]

Received the center diff locking kit from possum bourne motorsports. It is a FWD or RWD or 4WD kit. It is so simple that its ingenious.



I’ll use the FWD component and slide that over the pinion shaft gear. Then slide the center diff locking spool over that and the driven shaft. Don’t need the RWD component obviously.



(Looking straight down on the center diff locking spool)

It did come with a new oil pump gear to match up with the center diff locking spool.

There is a decent weight savings of 10lbs versus the original DCCD. The center diff locking spool and FWD component weigh 3lbs.

The length of the center locking spool looks correct to butt up against the transfer drive gear in the tail housing.

This is all just a cursory review. We’ll see how this all goes together over the next few days.

[fryguy]

Very cool. We'll have to meet up once they're both operational. Do you plan on making yours street legal like Tony? FFRSpec

I'd love to make it to street legal although I have not really done any research on how to get that done in Washington state.

[Kurk818]

I'd love to make it to street legal although I have not really done any research on how to get that done in Washington state.

Im going to attempt registration in 4 to 6 weeks. Ill let you know how that goes. I will not have wipers.

[fryguy]

Im going to attempt registration in 4 to 6 weeks. Ill let you know how that goes. I will not have wipers.

Do you have a build thread? Couldn't seem to find it.

[FFRSpec72]

It is so simple that its ingenious.

So simple yet expensive !

[Kurk818]

Do you have a build thread? Couldn't seem to find it.

No i do not.

[fryguy]

The center diff locking spool and the new oil pump gear mated up well. On the other side, there was about an 1/8″ gap with gear in the tail housing.



Debated on what tool would best to cut the tail housing and ended up using a reciprocating saw with a thicker 9″ blade. The tail housing is an awkward shape so I bolted it to a universal square to hold it in place. It worked well and gave a straight cut.





Next up is plugging the holes. Not covered in the guide is a race, a plastic piece, and a metal dowel that had to be removed.







Tail housing back on and ready to go back into the chassis. I wish I had a pretty plate like the 5-speeds.

[Zach34]

What exactly is this 1/8 inch gap you speak of? Did you have to add a spacer of some sort?

I've been brainstorming ways to weld the center diff, and there's just not an easy solution that seems like it would be strong enough. I think I'm going to do what you did and buy those parts from Possum.

Nice job on the cut! I will mimic you on that, too!

[fryguy]

The 1/8" gap (probably a little less) is the gap between the end of the possum diff locking spool and the flange part of the transfer drive gear in the tail housing. The diff locking spool actually slips over the shaft part of the transfer drive gear. There are already a couple spacers on that shaft part of the transfer drive gear, but there is still a slight gap to the flange. I don't think it will cause an issue. The gap isn't wide enough to allow the diff locking spool to come off of the oil pump drive gear.

(transfer drive gear bottom left)

[fryguy]

Tried to take a picture of the gap with an inspection mirror in the tail housing. The teeth are on the transfer drive gear. The end of the diff locking spool is just below it.

[Zach34]

Ah, I see. Thanks for going to the trouble of taking that picture!

[Kurk818]

I ground down the tail end of the transmission until i was at the bearing seat area. Measure the width of the hole at the tail end of the transmission then go to any autoparts store and get a freeze plug in that diameter. Apply sealer and tap that baby home. Gives it a great finished look. The oil hole i plugged with a two part aluminum repair putty after roughening and cleaning it up.

[fryguy]

Got the transmission back on the engine and into the chassis to check out the clearance issues with the transmission oil pan. My 6-speed kit came with 4 .60″ spacers. I assumed that these were the spacers Jim Schenck mentioned they used to clear the chassis. There aren’t any instructions for the spacers. I am guessing they go on top of the engine mounts. Have an email out to FFR to confirm.




Out of curiosity I tried two at the transmission mounts. No way.



Assuming these spacers go on top of the engine mounts, that pushes the engine even closer to the top cross bars making an already tight area even more so. A chassis modification might still be the best way to go.

[Zach34]

If you have the tools, I recommend cutting/welding the frame. It was relatively easy and it introduces far fewer variables that can bite you later on.

[fryguy]

So FFR says these 0.6″ spacers that came in the 6-speed kit go between the transmission and the mount. Doesn’t work for me.



In this pic, the transmission is resting on the pan (on the chassis). The transmission mount bolts aren’t long enough to accommodate the spacers. No new transmission mount bolts in the kit either. So used some other long bolts for testing. The spacer probably needs to be more like an inch or so to work. So maybe this is another 04 6-speed incompatibility.

So modified the chassis (Zach’s way).







Fits perfectly!

Also cleaned up the tail housing with the freeze plug. Great idea Kurk!

[Kurk818]

Awesome work man. Loving seeing your progress and willingness to go that extra step. Here's a couple from my progress today. Hope you dont mind me posting in your thread Interior sound deadening, fuel filler installation, front end and read end wiring.

[fryguy]

Wow you're getting close to finishing. I am going to need a ride!

[C.Plavan]

Nice work. A welder can "Fix" anything.

[fryguy]

The Sparco slider handle was too wide and didn’t have enough vertical clearance with that front diagonal cross brace. Fabbed a new one using the ends of the Sparco handle.



The new one…



More room to pull up on the handle now…

[AZPete]

Nice work. A welder can "Fix" anything.

[fryguy]

Spent today figuring out which axle shaft is going to be just right. From others, it sounded like I was going to be using the front shafts and dealing with the extra length. Well that’s not the case with the 2004 STI. Fortunately, I can use the rear shafts. So with a 2004 STI you can use the rears, keep the outer CV on and then just switch out the inner with the front inner.

Here are the specs:
Axle / Spline Count / Diameter / Length

FFR 80237/ 29 / 0.935″ / 20.75″

2004 STI Front Shaft / 32-30 / 1.02″-0.9625″ / 20.75″

2004 STI Rear Shaft / 30 / 0.9625″ / 20.75″