Fryguy's 818R with 2004 STI Donor Build Thread

[fryguy]

I was having a hell of a time trying to get the rear outer CV back onto the rear axle shaft. The circlip was a real *****. Using a hose clamp and a hammer didn’t work. So I took the 12 ton press to it and damaged the splines.



The sad thing is I only removed the rear outer CV to investigate which axle shaft to use. Then discovered the rear shafts were the ones. Sigh….off to eBay to find another rear axle assy.

[theburner9]

Check your local Subaru speed shop. they'll probably have some that are fine other than the boot being torn. I got mine for $20

[Hindsight]

I hate those circlips. The best way I have found to get the CV on is to tap it lightly with a hammer until the circlip is resting against the CV, then press down on the CV with your hand holding constant pressure while then going in with a flat head screwdriver and pushing the circlip into the groove. The downward pressure your hand provides on the CV keeps the circlip from moving around as you use the screwdriver to put it in its groove. I actually just did mine last night and using this technique I was able to get them on very quickly.

[theburner9]

I used a zip tie and they literally just slid in. no hammer involved

[Mitch Wright]

Compress it with hose clamp and tap the CV on with a mallet works well too.

[Scargo]

Nice work. I also cut out that area for the six-speed. I'm curious why no one's welding the holes closed in the tail. Afraid of warpage?

[fryguy]

Man, you guys make it sound so easy! Tried the hose clamp method without any luck. I am using the STI rear shaft. The groove in the FFR shaft is deeper and looks wider. I think that makes easier. Yet another STI issue it seems.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Fryguy
Did you remove the star,balls and cage?
It looks like the star has a taper on the side you are inserting from.
Bob
axles.jpg

[fryguy]

Fryguy
Did you remove the star,balls and cage?
It looks like the star has a taper on the side you are inserting from.
Bob
axles.jpg

I didn't remove the internals, but did notice the taper. That's why I thought using the 12-ton press would work with that taper pressing the circlip in. But that didn't happen and I ended up crushing the splines instead. How did you remove the internals of the rear outer CV and then put it back together?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I didn't remove the internals, but did notice the taper. That's why I thought using the 12-ton press would work with that taper pressing the circlip in. But that didn't happen and I ended up crushing the splines instead. How did you remove the internals of the rear outer CV and then put it back together?

To remove them, I put the shaft in a 5" vise about 1/2 way down the shaft. with the outer joint down.
Pulled up the boot.
Used a 2x4 16" long with a tapered point to a 1" x 3/4" flat point
Whacked that with a 3 lbs sledge about 6 times. My son was ready to catch the whole upright.

To assemble, I tried the Wayne's hose clamp method with success.
See http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post111287

Edit: To remove the balls and cage. Tap one side down until a ball is up and it comes out. repeat until all is out.
To assemble, reverse the process.
Bob

Bob

[fryguy]

Finished most of the front firewall, intrusion panels, and interior panels. Rather than using rivets and drilling into the chassis tubes, I ended up welding on a bunch of tabs and using 1/4 and 10-32 rivnuts.





For the intrusion panels, I used 6061-T6 1/8". The interior panels were actually the FFR exteriors, but I trimmed them for the interior. All the panels are then fastened using 1″ counter sunk spacers.





Also cut away the door mount plates.

[Kurk818]

Nice Work. Any plans on making it street legal at some point?

[fryguy]

Nice Work. Any plans on making it street legal at some point?

Yeah, I would like to. Isn't your inspection in just a few days? Where at?

[Kurk818]

Yeah, I would like to. Isn't your inspection in just a few days? Where at?

It's tomorrow at the Tacoma location. Ill let you know how it goes.

[sponaugle]

Spent today figuring out which axle shaft is going to be just right. From others, it sounded like I was going to be using the front shafts and dealing with the extra length. Well that’s not the case with the 2004 STI. Fortunately, I can use the rear shafts. So with a 2004 STI you can use the rears, keep the outer CV on and then just switch out the inner with the front inner.

Here are the specs:
Axle / Spline Count / Diameter / Length

FFR 80237/ 29 / 0.935″ / 20.75″

2004 STI Front Shaft / 32-30 / 1.02″-0.9625″ / 20.75″

2004 STI Rear Shaft / 30 / 0.9625″ / 20.75″

This is interesting. I used a 2006 STI as a donor, so I could use the front shafts with the front inners and rear outers. I never noticed that on the 2004 the fronts outers were 32 spline, not 30. Of course with the 2004 STI you are getting 5x100s as well.

Cool to see another 6-speed/STI build!

Jeff

[fryguy]

This is interesting. I used a 2006 STI as a donor, so I could use the front shafts with the front inners and rear outers. I never noticed that on the 2004 the fronts outers were 32 spline, not 30. Of course with the 2004 STI you are getting 5x100s as well.

Cool to see another 6-speed/STI build!

Jeff

Well, actually I have 5x114 knuckles and hubs. I am the original owner on this STI and many years back I did the upgrade.

[sponaugle]

Well, actually I have 5x114 knuckles and hubs. I am the original owner on this STI and many years back I did the upgrade.

Ah yea, my mistake for missing that. Are the 2006 STI rears axles the same? If so you can have mine, as I don't need them.

Jeff

[Kurk818]

Ah yea, my mistake for missing that. Are the 2006 STI rears axles the same? If so you can have mine, as I don't need them.

Jeff

I dont believe they are.

[sponaugle]

I dont believe they are.

Yea, the SM says the 04 STI rears are BJ87+DOJ87, 295.2mm long, 25mm diameter. The 06 STI is EBJ+EDJ, 25mm diameter, and 316mm long. Same diameter, but I didn't realize the 06 STIs would be longer. Of course if he switched to 5x114s, he may have also switched to the 05+ axles?

Jeff

[fryguy]

Yea, the SM says the 04 STI rears are BJ87+DOJ87, 295.2mm long, 25mm diameter. The 06 STI is EBJ+EDJ, 25mm diameter, and 316mm long. Same diameter, but I didn't realize the 06 STIs would be longer. Of course if he switched to 5x114s, he may have also switched to the 05+ axles?

Jeff

No, I still have the original 04 axles (Actually, 1 axle since I damaged the other). The 5x114 upgrade kit allowed the use of the original axles. I don't remember who I bought them from since that was many years ago. It may have been these guys: http://www.licmotorsports.com/produc...i_lic-03079012

[fryguy]

I think I am overdue for an update!
My goal is to rivnut most of the panels. This requires fabricating and welding on a bunch of tabs.

Front underbody:





Center underbody:





Side body panels (with CF splitters):



I picked up a JD2 M3 tube bender for building my own rear chassis wing mount/transmission protection.



Digging the open rear end and the rear attached wing supports; wonder if anyone has tried this.

[Mitch Wright]

Nice work.
Looking forward to seeing your wing mount. I am planning to build mine using aluminum round and square tube and plate.

[Frank818]

Very nice fasteners! Did you mention somewhere what they are?

BTW I want that Porsche as is. lolll

[fryguy]

Very nice fasteners! Did you mention somewhere what they are?

BTW I want that Porsche as is. lolll

They are 1/4-20 rivnuts, 1/4-20 countersunk screws, and Allstar Performance (ALL18664-50) countersunk washers.

[STiPWRD]

Great idea on the welded tabs for the floor panels.

[Zach34]

Digging the open rear end and the rear attached wing supports; wonder if anyone has tried this.

I am still a ways away from building my wing mount, but I would like to do something like that to facilitate access to the engine/trans area without removing and handling the $2k rear wing every time. I'm not going to go totally open rear end, though.

I'm jealous of that tubing bender. Been waiting for an excuse to buy one for a long time. Be sure to post what you make with it!

[C.Plavan]

Just a friendly reminder- You are going to need to cut the outside intrusion panels for the Coolant and AWIC lines to pass through. Also, throw the outer lap harness eye bolts on now. With that inner panel too, it will be a Biatch later to bolt them in. Looks good.

[Pearldrummer7]

Just a friendly reminder- You are going to need to cut the outside intrusion panels for the Coolant and AWIC lines to pass through. Also, throw the outer lap harness eye bolts on now. With that inner panel too, it will be a Biatch later to bolt them in. Looks good.

+1 on belt mounts before intrusion panels. Same with seat mounting, depending on how you mount it.

[Santiago]

Love the tabs! Especially since they're simpler than what I had planned. =)

Looking forward to seeing what you have in mind for the rear as we seem to be on the same page. Round tube bumper & wing mount with open rear end. I'm likely going completely open in the rear. I picked up a slim LED bar that I'll use for a brake light, but I don't need the rest of the rear lighting provisions FFR supplies in their panel. Besides, for me an important part of the rear bumper bar strategy is a crush-space of at least 6" from the trans input shaft, and that will take me way past the plane of the supplied rear panel.

Best,
-j

[Scargo]

Love the tabs! Especially since they're simpler than what I had planned. =)

Looking forward to seeing what you have in mind for the rear as we seem to be on the same page. Round tube bumper & wing mount with open rear end. I'm likely going completely open in the rear. I picked up a slim LED bar that I'll use for a brake light, but I don't need the rest of the rear lighting provisions FFR supplies in their panel. Besides, for me an important part of the rear bumper bar strategy is a crush-space of at least 6" from the trans input shaft, and that will take me way past the plane of the supplied rear panel.

Best,
-j

Ditto on most of these ideas. I purchased this Speedway, 60 piece tab and gusset kit. I think it is a great investment for attaching all kinds of things. Pieces are nicely made and tumble deburred. If you want more details of thicknesses or shapes in the kit, just ask.

[Courtnie Provencher]

I cannot wait to see how this car turns out! I'll be following your thread throughout the build. You're making great progress already.. Keep it up!

[fryguy]

I am long overdue for an update so here goes. I have been slowly working on the rear car and putting together a solution to protect the transmission and also provide a rear wing mount.
These were the inspirations.





Welded some mounts to the rear chassis brace.


Set up the frame for this structure. I used clevis ends on the tubing ends to attach to the chassis. That way I can remove the whole structure if I need to pull the engine.


Fabricated some saddle gussets to reinforce the cross members.


I cut away a lot of the rear bumper. The plan is to replace the cutout with a black metal mesh and then just go with a pair of circular tail lights on the ends. The rear wing supports would then attach through there along with running the exhaust through the center.


I have a cross member that protects the transmission.


The whole thing can rotate up or be completely removed.

[FFRSpec72]

What is the total weight ?

[fryguy]

What is the total weight ?

Just under 11 lbs. I am using 1" OD X 0.058" WALL 4130 ALLOY STEEL TUBE.