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Jeff, where and how did you install your high-pressure fuel pump? I've had many thoughts on this but all of them have con's (like everything else, right). Thoughts?
In tank. We have a custom fuel cell that sits low in the passenger area, that has an internal surge tank, pump and high pressure feed pump.
Picked up two new tow vehicles over the last few weeks. One was a 2016 Ford Superduty Diesel F250 to pull the 24' support trailer, and, a 1985 Peterbuilt called "Optimus Prime", which some people insist on calling BJ and the Bear. All I know, is towing should be allot less hassle.
We are also using a custom fuel cell, but with an internal pump and a surge box. The surge box has flaps that let fuel in but don't let it out. Haven't tested it yet so I can't say how well this setup works. We have seen similar setups work well in cars with much more down force and thus higher g loading.
818R Build date 10/31/15
Why are you doing things half-*** with that midget trailer? JK You are the boss.
So, not good news from the dyno. Our first attempt at a refresh on an ej did not go as planed, we seem to have bearing in the oil after start up, and the start of rod noise, so we are not making the Ridge.
Ordering stuff for our second motor, hope to do better this time. I think I know where we went wrong, but will only know for sure when we tear it apart. We also found some shorting in wires remote from the engine bay, but due to the fire (our wide band controller got fried). Right now, it is in detention for being bad, and so that we can focus on our three EP cars for the start of the season.
Oh no! Sorry to hear that Jeff! But I agree with your approach - put it in the background and focus on the fun stuff for now. Come back to it when ready.
I had to get one case line-honed because I couldn't make it work no matter how I shuffled bearings. Case bolts and head studs you use, and how much you torque them, can also pull everything out of whack. Torque plates must be used when boring or line honing and all the pieces going into the build should be the same pieces/same torque used when measuring everything. I will not build another 500 HP engine without having the mains pinned. With a used or "aged" case you have to check everything because it can really move around once disassembled.
I had custom rods that were out of round until I torqued them to 100% of the ARP bolt's rating. Four to six pounds less left them uncomfortably out of round at 5~6 tenths when they were already at .002".
So, for a performance engine, a Subaru motor really needs a lot of attention paid to it.
Where do you think you went wrong?
Last edited by Scargo; 04-10-2017 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Added more comments
Sorry about the issues. I guess the darn R curse was not only on my old car. Speaking of which, My old car is getting a new motor
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Retro, that is a sucker punch but good news is you know what the assembly issues were.
The great news is there are those of us that have not had engines issues with our 818 track cars and gathering data that will be useful to others. So when you guys get back to it I sure the car will be a beast.
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