Redfogo's 818C build

[redfogo]

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:

Summery
-Seat Belt mounts & seat mounts have been installed.
-Rear suspension/ is installed and ready to rock.
-Transmission has been converted to 2WD.
-New 2006+ Ej25 oil pan installed with Killer B oil baffle and pickup.

-Updated my site pages with all guides for: Oil system set up, seat and harness belt set up, rear suspension, and 2WD conversion.

As always if you have a guide or tip or something you would like added to the wiki please let me know I will do my best to help!

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[redfogo]

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:

1. Sorry my pictures aren't more fancy getting cought up in the moment of building, I forget to clean up the mess around me

Summery
-Seat Belt harness bar fixed and updated!
-Radiator installed.
-Throttle cable slack fixed.
-Master Cylinders,brake/clutch lines, proportion valve are all installed.
-Gas pedal mounted to the aluminum.

-Currently finishing up all the wiring. Planning to release full excel file/guide for making your own wiring harness that can run only the engine and all of its needs. This would be more of standalone wiring system to separate everything not needed to run the engine. Everything else would need to be its own system like an infinity box. Maybe it will help no one, maybe it will help someone! If anyone one has any specific things they would like in the guide I can see what I can do! I just found it to be easier and mess free to cut out all the OEM junk and wire just the Engine/ECU on its own system. All this is granted everything works right! So far looks like I will be in business!

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[redfogo]

For the radiator I found that It work best to trim the OEM pads on the top to be more flush and then bolt the mounting tabs at an angle to get the radiator to sit at a low angle.

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New harness bar mounting holes are much lower now and the harness bar now sets the seat belts at a perfect 0 to negative 5 deg angle. I ended up having to throw out the FFR harness bar. I cut the bar according to the instructions so that it would fit the FFR/OEM mounting holes. After realizing that the bar sat to high the damage was done and the bar just didn’t provide enough thread to be satisfied on my new mounting holes. I upgraded to a 1.25in harness bar since I needed a new one. Bigger bar should provide a little bit more surface area for the belts as well.

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[redfogo]

I ended up mounting the medal straight into the front aluminum panel. I my install a brace for the panel eventually however currently I see no need. If you have a heavy foot though it may be worth it!

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For some reason my throttle cable came without the throttle body end cylinder installed. I thought about calling FFR about it however after thinking about it I found that it was better to have it off this way I could install the cable properly as well as shorten the extra slack on the cable so the throttle would open fully and have no slack in the cable.

I broke the plastic stopper that went into the accelerator pedal when I tried to install it. I have read a few posts where people have broken it just while driving. To fix this problem I used a normal push in plastic tab normally used to mounting body parts like mudflaps etc as the guide. Then I put a nut between the ball and the pedal. This provides a nice strong hold that wont get warn out.

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For the throttle body end I found some DIY cable links at autozone. The kit comes with a few different sizes for different linkage size. All you need to do is feed your FFR cable through the hole cut the extra cable off and use the provided screw to hold the line in place. If your extra paranoid like me just throw some solder on the end of the wire to help hold it in place. The screw should be more then enough though. Set to how you like it I set mine with zero slack so pedal has no play in it. INSTANT POWER!!!!

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[ben1272]

Nice, thanks for the info. I am just about to do mine and this will be helpful.

I am curious how you routed the cable from pedal to the throttle? Also, how did you retain along the way (did you?)

-Ben

[redfogo]

Nice, thanks for the info. I am just about to do mine and this will be helpful.

I am curious how you routed the cable from pedal to the throttle? Also, how did you retain along the way (did you?)

-Ben

1. The cable is ran through the FFR hole shown in the instructions. Since mine had no throttle body end on it, it fit right through like the instructions tell you. Planning to go in more detail on my site when I get the chance to update that section.
2. I ran the cable through one of the shifter linkage grommets (Im using the MR2 shifter so those grommet wont be used) .
3. From the grommet it should just go down the center console and out the back and mount onto the OEM throttle cable mount.

If you need pictures or more details let me know and I can get those for you .

[ben1272]

I, for one, am looking forward to your wire harness info. I may pursue the same path and greatly appreciate the insight it will give a subie noob like me! Keep it coming!

-Ben

Follow my blog here: http://redfogo.com/index.php/category/build-status/

As for my update for the forum:

1. Sorry my pictures aren't more fancy getting cought up in the moment of building, I forget to clean up the mess around me

Summery
-Seat Belt harness bar fixed and updated!
-Radiator installed.
-Throttle cable slack fixed.
-Master Cylinders,brake/clutch lines, proportion valve are all installed.
-Gas pedal mounted to the aluminum.

-Currently finishing up all the wiring. Planning to release full excel file/guide for making your own wiring harness that can run only the engine and all of its needs. This would be more of standalone wiring system to separate everything not needed to run the engine. Everything else would need to be its own system like an infinity box. Maybe it will help no one, maybe it will help someone! If anyone one has any specific things they would like in the guide I can see what I can do! I just found it to be easier and mess free to cut out all the OEM junk and wire just the Engine/ECU on its own system. All this is granted everything works right! So far looks like I will be in business!