Sunshine State 818C Build

[Soon2B818]

Hi all, brand new to the factory five forum and about to put the deposit on my 818c. wanted to start my build thread with some info on me and questions i'm already racking up.

First off my name is Charles, I'm 29yo, I live in Southwest Florida (Fort Myers specifically) and only have light mechanic knowledge having worked three years as a resto mod mehcanic on '66-71' Ford's, Pontiac's, and mostly Chevy's, but i'm fairly out fo the box and problem solving orientated so I think i'll be ok .

So here's the dream:
- A 300-400whp 818c, daily driver sleeper, that's gonna turn some heads with an absolutely sick paint job. Likely will not be tracked unless I make it up to Sebring raceway some afternoon, but I won't push the limits by any means, i'm mostly a streetlight to streetlight racer.
- I was thinking and have been quoted a built engine from AJW, but open to others thoughts on this as I've read alot of the forums and see what others have said on this.
- Put in a 6MT Transmission from an sti and do the 2WD conversion.
- Avoid using a donor and buy all enw parts, yes I know this will be expensive, thoughts?

Here's the questions:
- If I do the 6MT swap and conversion what axles do I use as I see all over the factory five sight and an email from them that says I cant use the STI axles or spindles?
- Is the infinitywire sstem worth it? I really like the look, but they only have an 818S version so far and I definitely want power windows, locks, etc.
- Anyone done work with Performance Auto Customs in Florida? They are a gold vendor, but curious what others have seen in working with them?
- I want to avoid using a donor, so ideas on sourcing new parts aside from direct from Subaru, or is this just a pipe dream?

And the current budget is set at $25,000, let the bullets fly, let me know what you think guys.

[billjr212]

Welcome to the forum. Watch out for the flames (don't worry, people are much nicer here than on NASIOC and other places).

Good luck with your build, but you are going to need more like $30k+ to meet your list unless you plan to do the paint job entirely on your own.

I'm sure others will chime in on your direct questions.

To be clear, I'm hoping when you say "avoid using a donor" you are not also referring to the engine and transmission with that budget. Otherwise I'm changing my number to $35k+.

[STiPWRD]

Welcome! Things add up quickly so a $25k budget would be more suitable for a stock build with a donor. With the power mods and hp goals you've listed, you will be closer to $30k.

Here's the questions:
- If I do the 6MT swap and conversion what axles do I use as I see all over the factory five sight and an email from them that says I cant use the STI axles or spindles?
- Is the infinitywire sstem worth it? I really like the look, but they only have an 818S version so far and I definitely want power windows, locks, etc.

FFR should be able to provide you with the correct axle shafts but you may need to re-use the CV joints from sti axles and sti rear spindles. Sponaugle, Kurk818 and some others have done the 6MT conversion. There's a possibility you could use the Sti axles but I'm not positive.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post158780

There's a thread on the infinity box system here:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...y-box-worth-it
Personally, I dieted my stock wrx wiring harness. There's lots of good resources here and the process really wasn't that bad.

[Flamshackle]

Welcome! I hope you achieve your goals. Dreams are a good thing and it's good to ask questions so don't worry about being flamed here.

-a daily driver sleeper, that's gonna turn some heads with an absolutely sick paint job.

I don't think the 818C can be a "sleeper"?

Unless the term has a different meaning in the United states? Over here a "sleeper" is a car that looks inconspicuous and drab, but performs like a supercar.

The 818 looks like a supercar! so being a sleeper is out of the question for you. Especially with an awesome paint job.

All the best hope to see your build log :-)

[Mechie3]

Many people are easily into the $25k's without going crazy.

[Frank818]

Welcome!

Make sure you buy the right spindles!!! Especially if you need upgraded CVs at some point.

[JeromeS13]

6 speed and a "sick" paint job, with all new parts? I hope your budget allows for 60% budget creep.

[twgab]

Welcome to the forums. I'm just south of you in Bonita Springs. The 6 speed is a good idea, as I just trashed my 5 speed in my 818.
As everybody above stated, it would be almost impossible to stay under $25k with all new parts. There are so many small parts, such as door latches, radiator stays, and all of the fuel system parts.
If you want a hand when you get your kit, let me know. They are as much fun to build, as they are to drive.

Tom

[Hindsight]

Welcome.

I agree with what others have said about budget. The FFR kit is great starting point but there are plenty of areas that need improvement for an ideal experience. If you want to turn the heat up a bit (as you do), then you need to consider a number of upgrades.

For example, even after selling donor car parts I didn't need, I'm already at $30k and that's getting a really good deal on a donor with low miles, and running a stock engine, stock turbo. I still need to buy wheels & tires (~$1500+), some exhaust bits, get it painted, get a dyno tune and an Access Port, get a passenger seat, 6-point harnesses and bits for the MR2 shifter setup.

Yes you can do a strictly by-the-book no-paint build for $15k if you get a great deal on a donor and make some money off parts, but if you want something that has 300+HP, has adequate intake charge cooling, adequate power delivery to the wheels, nice paint, etc, you are going to be more like $25k to $35k (or even much more depending on how crazy you get). Still a total bargain for what you are ending up with performance-wise IMHO but need to be realistic about the cost to do that.

Examples of things you will probably want to spend money on to do a 300+ HP build "right" that aren't part of the kit or donor:
- Intercooling that works for over 225hp.
- Traction (to put 300+ HP down on an 1800lb car, you are going to need to spend plenty of time and money on this) - Limited slip differential, electronic traction control system, wide wheels with very sticky tires
- Better shifter setup (shifter itself, plus cables, linkage and brackets0
- Small bits like Rori's radiator spacers, Mechie's vents
- Custom 3" exhaust Exhaust
- Power upgrades required to hit your 300-400hp power numbers: Turbo, fuel pump, injectors. Possibly headers and up-pipe if you want to be at 400.
- Dyno tune and AccessPort (AccessPort can be skipped if you run open source and have a tuner familiar with it)
- Seats (stockers are heavy and way too high for most people)
- Steering wheel (unless you want to run OEM which most don't)
- Wiring - Are you going to do it yourself or buy the iWire kit? The iWire kit runs a bit over $2k, or, if doing it yourself, you can spend months to do it cleanly and still spend a few hundred on extra wire, connectors, tape, loom, zip ties, relays, terminals, lugs, etc.

[wallace18]

Welcome, I live in Alachua ,FL and currently building my 3rd 818. Let me know if you ever need any questions answered. I'll try to do my best.

[Pearldrummer7]

Welcome.

I agree with what others have said about budget. The FFR kit is great starting point but there are plenty of areas that need improvement for an ideal experience. If you want to turn the heat up a bit (as you do), then you need to consider a number of upgrades.

For example, even after selling donor car parts I didn't need, I'm already at $30k and that's getting a really good deal on a donor with low miles, and running a stock engine, stock turbo. I still need to buy wheels & tires (~$1500+), some exhaust bits, get it painted, get a dyno tune and an Access Port, get a passenger seat, 6-point harnesses and bits for the MR2 shifter setup.

Yes you can do a strictly by-the-book no-paint build for $15k if you get a great deal on a donor and make some money off parts, but if you want something that has 300+HP, has adequate intake charge cooling, adequate power delivery to the wheels, nice paint, etc, you are going to be more like $25k to $35k (or even much more depending on how crazy you get). Still a total bargain for what you are ending up with performance-wise IMHO but need to be realistic about the cost to do that.

Examples of things you will probably want to spend money on to do a 300+ HP build "right" that aren't part of the kit or donor:
- Intercooling that works for over 225hp.
- Traction (to put 300+ HP down on an 1800lb car, you are going to need to spend plenty of time and money on this) - Limited slip differential, electronic traction control system, wide wheels with very sticky tires
- Better shifter setup (shifter itself, plus cables, linkage and brackets0
- Small bits like Rori's radiator spacers, Mechie's vents
- Custom 3" exhaust Exhaust
- Power upgrades required to hit your 300-400hp power numbers: Turbo, fuel pump, injectors. Possibly headers and up-pipe if you want to be at 400.
- Dyno tune and AccessPort (AccessPort can be skipped if you run open source and have a tuner familiar with it)
- Seats (stockers are heavy and way too high for most people)
- Steering wheel (unless you want to run OEM which most don't)
- Wiring - Are you going to do it yourself or buy the iWire kit? The iWire kit runs a bit over $2k, or, if doing it yourself, you can spend months to do it cleanly and still spend a few hundred on extra wire, connectors, tape, loom, zip ties, relays, terminals, lugs, etc.

Hindsight is (per usual) full of great points here. For wiring, I did it myself and had no issues. I just lightened the stock harness severely and prettied it up. Definitely glad I didn't pay for one (though the iWire is a really nice solution). That said, I have an electrical background.

The amount you can spend on "small bits" is nuts! Be careful with how little things add up to a bit budget.

And of course- welcome to the forums. Your desired build sounds sweet. Feel free to ask me (or most anyone here) anything you'd like!

Frank

[305mouse]

You mention AJW but said you rread the threads. Instead those who shall not be named you would be better off with an oem short block from the dealer, and some heads either used or built by some shop. Do research in your local Subaru community. I'm sure theres a lot in Florida.

[Soon2B818]

Some seriously good replies in 24 hours! Thanks guys! I'm going to start reading the threads STiPWRD posted as the axels/spindles are definitely a gray area for me. And if I'm going to use the stock harness its definitely going to need a big diet as I believe its somewhere in the 40-50lb arena stock, but something I can probably handle doing.

I did a rough budget last night and as everyone knew/expected I was already at $28k before i was 75% through it. so might have to do a donor after all. Recommendations on years and models, are we really stuck with the years and WRX/legacy listed by FFR? I'd really like to do the STi but not sure what parts that will mean I will still need, I'll keep reading the forums as I'm sure someones written about it.

And twgab - glad to know someones close in case I get stuck somewhere.
And Flamshackle - yeah it is a bit to sporty to have the sleeper look but I guess in my mind i mean sounds quiet sitting at a light but then rips it to the next one

[AZPete]

If a donor, avoid one from the rust belt. Don't ask how I know.

[Soon2B818]

So just a couple post Turkey-Day updates for any of those out there that care.

1 - My kit has been purchased and I'm awaiting my build number and production date.
2 - Spoke with Wayne @ VCP (Awesome guy!, Thank You! to all those PMs i got from everyone suggesting the change) and he is working me up an WRX STI long block with 6mt transmission and every upgrade he could offer including larger turbo and of course all the donor pallet pieces, should be fun!
3 - Still need to source a couple of alternative parts and things Steering Wheel, Seats, Fog Lights (anyone know what ones are used in that beautiful SW Sinister Black 818c showing off the new nose and paint scheme?), Additional Dash Gauges & Paint of course, I think I'm going to reach out to Performance Automotive Customs from the vendor list, since they are a known vendor and only 3 hours away from me.

Also the new budget of $32k, you veterans of the forum were quite correct in my low numbers and I'm already 18% passed the previous one, so my new budget with allocated funds and I'm hoping to hold it firm, at least until I see another upgrade part. (Like those beautiful Hood Hinges from Mechie3. I have a studio/recording room in my house I was thinking of mounting the cameras in the garage to do a full time lapse/photograph of every step of the build. Meh. Something I may toy with this weekend after I move a bunch of unused things out to the road for take away and clean the garage in preparation. That reminds me I also need to check out that recommended tools list I saw on here and get over to Harbor Freight and/or Northern Tools.

[tmoretta]

I am looking to add a pair of driving lights to my original style nose of my 818S. Anyone know of a good pair that nicely fits, works well? I have adjusted my headlights vertically, very hard to move them left to right without really messing up the fit of the lights in the fenders. I need to get better night time head lighting coverage.

[suttonb3]

I'd also like to welcome you to the adventure. I live in Tampa but work in Venice and I'd be happy meet up. My 818S is on the road, but still not finished. Like you, I have no automotive training but between the manual, a lot of persistence, and most importantly this community, I was able to get to this point. I'm telling you, the amount of help I've gotten from perfect strangers has been incredible. I'm certainly no expert, but I hope my experience will give me the ability to start paying that generosity back. Let me know how I can help!

Ben

[Loring]

Good to see more Floridians. It'll be nice to have a meetup or steal a section at a car show once we're all finished up.

[65 Cobra Dude]

Soon,

Welcome to the madness! I am just North of you in Port Charlotte if you would like to see one up close. I also have a Mark IV Roadster and a 33 currently in my garage.

Henry

[mikeybrownie]

Welcome to the forums. I'm just south of you in Bonita Springs. The 6 speed is a good idea, as I just trashed my 5 speed in my 818.
As everybody above stated, it would be almost impossible to stay under $25k with all new parts. There are so many small parts, such as door latches, radiator stays, and all of the fuel system parts.
If you want a hand when you get your kit, let me know. They are as much fun to build, as they are to drive.

Tom

Nice to see some other Florida guys on here! I'm going to be starting my build in a couple weeks! Although I'm 2.5 hours away in Boynton Beach

[Loring]

I'm in the Tampa area. I'm still looking for a donor but I'll likely put my deposit down tomorrow morning for my coupe. I'll start the requisite build thread once that's done.

[Soon2B818]

Hey all,
Great to see others getting started with their builds in Florida. My Stewart transport driver told me I was the last of 3 818's being delivered when I got mine last week. So hopefully one of you guys just got yours too. Today was my first day to work on the car as work has been ridiculous for lack of using more colorful words.

Got the interior panels and body removed and cleaned up the frame to prep for powder coating, didn't get mine done by FFR because I am doing some modifications to the frame and figured it'd just be easier as we have 3 powder coaters in town. Also got my engine up on the rotisserie today and installed my KillerB parts and cleaned up the engine a little. Will try and muddle through the 6speed kit FFR sent me sometime this week, but it'll be another crazy work week Sunday-Friday.

I have some concerns I was hoping to get everyone's feedback on before talking with FFR, the medal brackets that come down through the roof/A-pillars on my 818C have what I would suggest is an excessive amount of rust on them for being a freshly delivered kit. I am also surprised that FFR did not coat the metal used inside the a pillars as now with the fiberglass around it I have no way of tackling that rust or preventing it from getting worse. Anyone else have any similar issues? I'll try and get some photos up tomorrow night showing the rust, but for now I'm beat. got up at 7am EST to start on the car and just finished around 7pm EST, that and a 50+ work week, stick a fork in me I'm done!

Also I completely second and third the idea that we should make a Sunshine State 818 club! I'll travel for shows as far as the 818 will take me.

[Soon2B818]

I'm in the Tampa area. I'm still looking for a donor but I'll likely put my deposit down tomorrow morning for my coupe. I'll start the requisite build thread once that's done.

I worked with Wayne at Very Cool Parts and purchased a donor kit from him as i searched for about a month and could not find any decent selections for donors, he was great and has been very helpful and I would highly recommend him if you go the donor crate route.

[JeremyG]

Hey Charles, I live in Fort Myers also. If you need a hand with anything just ask. I don't have a FFR yet but would like to build one when I move into a place with a garage with in the year. Good luck.

[redfogo]

Hey all,
Great to see others getting started with their builds in Florida. My Stewart transport driver told me I was the last of 3 818's being delivered when I got mine last week. So hopefully one of you guys just got yours too. Today was my first day to work on the car as work has been ridiculous for lack of using more colorful words.

Got the interior panels and body removed and cleaned up the frame to prep for powder coating, didn't get mine done by FFR because I am doing some modifications to the frame and figured it'd just be easier as we have 3 powder coaters in town. Also got my engine up on the rotisserie today and installed my KillerB parts and cleaned up the engine a little. Will try and muddle through the 6speed kit FFR sent me sometime this week, but it'll be another crazy work week Sunday-Friday.

I have some concerns I was hoping to get everyone's feedback on before talking with FFR, the medal brackets that come down through the roof/A-pillars on my 818C have what I would suggest is an excessive amount of rust on them for being a freshly delivered kit. I am also surprised that FFR did not coat the metal used inside the a pillars as now with the fiberglass around it I have no way of tackling that rust or preventing it from getting worse. Anyone else have any similar issues? I'll try and get some photos up tomorrow night showing the rust, but for now I'm beat. got up at 7am EST to start on the car and just finished around 7pm EST, that and a 50+ work week, stick a fork in me I'm done!

Also I completely second and third the idea that we should make a Sunshine State 818 club! I'll travel for shows as far as the 818 will take me.

My A pillars also have rust I just assumed that FFR dipped them in salt and put water on them before loading them in hahaha. I honestly have no idea why they are rusted and no other part is. I was thinking maybe it was just mine. If you ask FFR let me know what they say. My plan is to just sand them down and paint them when the time comes. This was the only real rusted part I had, none of the other items in the boxes had rust. Maybe its just humid and salty inside the transport trucks.

[Loring]

I worked with Wayne at Very Cool Parts and purchased a donor kit from him as i searched for about a month and could not find any decent selections for donors, he was great and has been very helpful and I would highly recommend him if you go the donor crate route.

If I was short on time and/or didnt know how to tear a car down, I'd call Wayne. Seems like he knows what he's doing. I appreciate the recommendation.

As far as the donor goes, I got it and took it from a complete car down to a shell in one Saturday. I gave myself 2 weekends and now I guess I'll, uhh, diet the wiring harness and tear into the engine, haha.

I'm in for an 818 club as well. The USF meets in tampa can get pretty big.

[R.Spec]

Just to give you an idea. I am about 20k into mine. I have a fully forged motor, 35r, stoptech big brakes. etc. etc. I did all the work myself, building the motor, etc. and got all of my parts at wholesale or for free. My goals are 4-500whp. So with the added cost of someone else building your motor and buying parts at full cost. probably add atleast another 10k.

[Soon2B818]

Hey Charles, I live in Fort Myers also. If you need a hand with anything just ask. I don't have a FFR yet but would like to build one when I move into a place with a garage with in the year. Good luck.

I'm pretty slow going at the moment, I work a 60+ hour work week pretty consistently so its mostly Friday Nights, Saturdays, and Sunday night if i'm not completely exhausted by that point. Saturdays are my main 818 work day. I'll pm you my cell you are more than welcome to stop by any Saturday.

[Soon2B818]

Welcome.

I agree with what others have said about budget. The FFR kit is great starting point but there are plenty of areas that need improvement for an ideal experience. If you want to turn the heat up a bit (as you do), then you need to consider a number of upgrades.

For example, even after selling donor car parts I didn't need, I'm already at $30k and that's getting a really good deal on a donor with low miles, and running a stock engine, stock turbo. I still need to buy wheels & tires (~$1500+), some exhaust bits, get it painted, get a dyno tune and an Access Port, get a passenger seat, 6-point harnesses and bits for the MR2 shifter setup.

Yes you can do a strictly by-the-book no-paint build for $15k if you get a great deal on a donor and make some money off parts, but if you want something that has 300+HP, has adequate intake charge cooling, adequate power delivery to the wheels, nice paint, etc, you are going to be more like $25k to $35k (or even much more depending on how crazy you get). Still a total bargain for what you are ending up with performance-wise IMHO but need to be realistic about the cost to do that.

Examples of things you will probably want to spend money on to do a 300+ HP build "right" that aren't part of the kit or donor:
- Intercooling that works for over 225hp.
- Traction (to put 300+ HP down on an 1800lb car, you are going to need to spend plenty of time and money on this) - Limited slip differential, electronic traction control system, wide wheels with very sticky tires
- Better shifter setup (shifter itself, plus cables, linkage and brackets0
- Small bits like Rori's radiator spacers, Mechie's vents
- Custom 3" exhaust Exhaust
- Power upgrades required to hit your 300-400hp power numbers: Turbo, fuel pump, injectors. Possibly headers and up-pipe if you want to be at 400.
- Dyno tune and AccessPort (AccessPort can be skipped if you run open source and have a tuner familiar with it)
- Seats (stockers are heavy and way too high for most people)
- Steering wheel (unless you want to run OEM which most don't)
- Wiring - Are you going to do it yourself or buy the iWire kit? The iWire kit runs a bit over $2k, or, if doing it yourself, you can spend months to do it cleanly and still spend a few hundred on extra wire, connectors, tape, loom, zip ties, relays, terminals, lugs, etc.

Yeah I hear all that, so far im at $32k, I have the following extras so far:

- Turbo upgrade and injectors
- VCP K shifter and nearly all Killer B parts
- Full carbon fiber parts
- Got a JDM 6MT and have done the frame modification to make it work
- Hood and trunk hinges from Zero

I'll also be purchasing:

- Lightest weight wheels i can find at a decent price, thus far the Enkei RFP1's seem to be the number one contender, still researching
- Dieted harness
- Lightweight flywheel and upgraded clutch
- all four corner willwoods
- Possibly some more of Zero's mods
- Possibly the alternative aluminum gas tank, i got the stock one but im not really liking it much.
- Possibly some driveshaft shop replacements, still on the fence

Did the frame mod for 6MT and sent it off to the powdercoater this week. I'm going to start some of the body cuts (lights, gas cap, etc.) while its away. Also need to purchase some sound deadening etc. for when it's back so i can start the aluminum. My living room, dining room, and kitchen have become part organization areas (good to be single) although GF had pretty funny comment when she saw it..."I think a car exploded in your living room." Had a good laugh from that one. Trying to get the gallery unlocked so i can start posting some pics, but need a few more posts. Well i'll get at it early tomorrow morning and try and get some more body parts done.

[JeremyG]

What powder coating place are you using? West Coast?

[billjr212]

Yeah I hear all that, so far im at $32k, I have the following extras so far:

- Turbo upgrade and injectors
- VCP K shifter and nearly all Killer B parts
- Full carbon fiber parts
- Got a JDM 6MT and have done the frame modification to make it work
- Hood and trunk hinges from Zero

I'll also be purchasing:

- Lightest weight wheels i can find at a decent price, thus far the Enkei RFP1's seem to be the number one contender, still researching
- Dieted harness
- Lightweight flywheel and upgraded clutch
- all four corner willwoods
- Possibly some more of Zero's mods
- Possibly the alternative aluminum gas tank, i got the stock one but im not really liking it much.
- Possibly some driveshaft shop replacements, still on the fence

Sounds awesome. Can't wait to see the photos as you work through it all. You may be able to email a moderator to unlock the gallery since you are an owner. Some of the restrictions are more designed to keep 3rd parties from popping in and mucking things up and post count seems to be the easiest deterrent in some cases.

Hate to take a sale from ZeroDB (I have a lot of his stuff!) but you shouldn't need the trunk hinges if you are doing an 818C. You won't have a trunk (unless you cut up the body and fab one). You may be able to make one up front if you move the battery to the back. With ZeroDB hinges for the hood it will make it easy(-er) to access. There is a good size space up there. It is just tough to reach once the windshield and front sway bar are in place.

[TouchStone]

Ebay, I got lots of new subaru parts sometime with free shipping for much cheaper than an official Subaru parts dealer.

[Soon2B818]

Ok, in need of some veteran experience on this one. I purchased the Wilwood Pedal set and first off the directions are beyond a joke, but nonetheless I received 3 additional pieces of aluminum that seem to be for replacing the 3 pieces along the cockfit front wall when the wilwood pedals are used. My issue is that the third piece with replaces the 3 holes that are no longer used above the throttle pedal seems to have been cut too short? is this even possible or am I looking at this wrong? I could use the existing piece from the kit but it will leave a pretty big gap on the left hand side where the pieces don't line up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Piece looks to be about 2.5" too short.

rsz_1img_20160312_091919513[2].jpgrsz_img_20160312_091703215[1].jpgrsz_img_20160312_091911922[1].jpg

[Soon2B818]

What powder coating place are you using? West Coast?

Yes I used West Coast Powder Coating, they came in a bit more than i'd have liked, but they stated when i said car frame they weren't expecting something so intricate... anyways it was $825 for the frame and all donor parts, all i have left to powder coat is the aluminum which i'm pre-drilling over the next few days and will then send it off to them. The did a pretty good job and have a load of colors to choose from.

On a hilarious note in the wee hours of the morning when I was boxing everything up to go to the West Coast I somehow managed to include my RivNut Tool, so who else here has a beautifully powdercoated RivNut Tool

[Soon2B818]

Sounds awesome. Can't wait to see the photos as you work through it all. You may be able to email a moderator to unlock the gallery since you are an owner. Some of the restrictions are more designed to keep 3rd parties from popping in and mucking things up and post count seems to be the easiest deterrent in some cases.

Hate to take a sale from ZeroDB (I have a lot of his stuff!) but you shouldn't need the trunk hinges if you are doing an 818C. You won't have a trunk (unless you cut up the body and fab one). You may be able to make one up front if you move the battery to the back. With ZeroDB hinges for the hood it will make it easy(-er) to access. There is a good size space up there. It is just tough to reach once the windshield and front sway bar are in place.

I'll look into messaging one of them because I would like to add my pics soon.

Sorry I meant hatch hinges as I don't really like the stock ones, but seeing as my budget keeps going north i may use them and be happy

[Soon2B818]

Anyone else feel when reading the manual and trying to build an 818c is like buying a GMC and getting a Chevy owners guide in the glove box.... I hope I'm not the only one. Between part numbers not matching and them completely skipping certain things i keep losing hours getting off track..... Got 75% of the panels into the car and starting to drill holes for the rivets before i send them off ot get powder coated. Also built the center console today, that was loads of fun. Good thing I bought plenty of clamps.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Another option for picture display is to upload them to a third party site like flickr or photo bucket and then hotline them in your post. I use Flickr since I have a yahoo email address and that gets you a bunch of storage. I'm still trying to figure out why I can't access my user settings!

Looking forward to the answer on the Willwood question since I got that set up with my kit.

[Loring]

There's a minimum post count, I don't recall what it is, sorry. My issue once I was able to attach pictures is that they were too big. No mention of max file size on the uploader, however.

Anyone else feel when reading the manual and trying to build an 818c is like buying a GMC and getting a Chevy owners guide in the glove box.... I hope I'm not the only one. Between part numbers not matching and them completely skipping certain things i keep losing hours getting off track.....

You'll have to assume the role of engineer, which, many times involves correcting what the other engineers missed.

[Soon2B818]

Well work happened and the 818 has been slow as molasses as i have had to travel often. I finally got back to it this week and am ready to drop in the engine, only problem is when i went to sure up the exhaust and attach it to the engine my oil filter and cooler are hitting the killer B exhaust. I'm assuming others have had this issue and was looking for help on the best fix for it. Any ideas?

[longislandwrx]

Chad had the issue and returned his header. I believe Killer B wanted him to swap out to a different generation cooler. If I were you I would remove the cooler unit and run an aftermarket one.

pretty sure the shorter pipe pn is 15018AA050 then just couple the coolant lines together.