Zen and the Art of Building a Cobra Replica

[120mm]

First of all, these are all well reasoned responses. I've learned a lot from them and really appreciate them. The best part about them, is everyone forced me to step outside my frame of reference and re-examine my logic.

I thought I would add my experience. I could have economized by going straight to the 351W but I have gained a wealth of knowledge by going with a 302 for my first iteration of the roadster. The cool thing is it gives you a platform for experimentation so you can find your "sweet spot" with regard to hp and performance. I think your biggest challenge isn't finding the best hp level but taming the short wheelbase/high hp combination which most people have not experienced before their first build. A person in a racing environment would be the exception but if you haven't driven one of these, it is an eye opening experience. Personally, I think 350 to 400 hp is enough to make this way more than exciting depending on your risk comfort level.

Good points. Out of the corner of my eye, I have a friend's 5.0L roller motor with GT40P heads and cam I could probably put in it for not too much money. It would get the car done as cheaply as anything and get me driving it and discovering what I really want.

I like the 351W for it's truck like strength on the bottom end. You don't have to go exotic or full race components to get a reliable short block. Even staying with a stock displacement is a big power boost. So you've made a very good decision there.

You might still consider a 3.55 as that would launch you much better but I see your point for the 3.27 as mine is a great gear for cruising just a little tall for slower cruising. I have to drive in fourth quite often and I need to gear down some in the mountains. I'm pretty sure a 3.55 is the best all around gear. It has been documented for many years in the manuals and on the forum.

For a T5, right? I'd assume a Toploader needs a lower ratio. But if I go with the roller motor I could score an inexpensive T5 and be money ahead.

For a rear suspension, I like the idea of the three link but don't particularly like the FFR one (design). Have a look at the five link options out there. You must have seen a lot of them if you built stangs. I have a custom three link with a Watt's link and it is great! Gordon Levy has one that is beautiful as well as functional. I did my own with some serious help from Mike N on the forum and others who had cool ideas about suspension in general. Looking forward to see your build.

Good luck,

WEK.

See, this post made me think about just building it with the 4 link for the same reasons I'd go with a GT40 head 5.0. I could always sub in a 5 link later on. Right?

My thoughts....

If you want high performance and "function trumps form", you will want to reconsider the 15" wheels. You can't get good high performance street legal tires for 15". You also cannot get big brakes.

Even with free BC/CC, you have a lot of materials to get it there. I spent over $100 in cleaners, over $200 in sand paper, and I am sure way over $100 in masking tape.

As much as I like the "function trumps form" statement, I think I like "function defines form" better. And every time I look at a 17 or 18" wheel Cobra, I start thinking that maybe I'd like an 818 better. To me, without the 15" wheels, it's just not a Cobra.

BTW, the Cobra has a TINY body, and most folks I see are painting them bare of any trim, windshields, etc. What in tarnation are people spending over $100 to mask off? The polyurethane I use isn't a base/top coat system, so you basically just put 3-4 coats on. Looks just like the original race car finish. In fact, am starting to think about just using plasti-dip, instead.

I've heard very compelling arguments that big brakes do not improve these cars. I'm tending toward agreeing with them.

Dear Ornery

I may be ornery also.
If you are truly ornery get a 427 big block built by an experienced builder. Visit his shop and if he dosent have any bits and pieces from a 427 laying around go some where else. You will never need the power but it sure makes you feel good.

I am currently cussing you under my breath right now. I'm trying to forget that I have a 390 FE in a shed on my mom's farm. Or that I know a guy who does 460 block builds for truck pulling who is interested in helping me build one of them for a project.

Goodyear billboards are a unique look and if you like it, like I do, nothing else looks as good. The ride is not that good but I don't care because I'm ornery.
A solid rear axle does not look as hunkered down but I really goes good in a straight line.
No interior no problem and no chrome.
Have fun. You will.
JMS

I sat in a real deal Cobra once, at the Spencer Fair in 1976. It had Hoosiers on and since that time I've fantasized about putting a set of billboard Hoosiers on my own Cobra.

I like the cut of your jib. Do you have any photos of your Cobra?

[Johnnymike]

20247843-700-0[1].jpgIMG-20140614-00103.jpgphoto 5.JPG

jms

[Avalanche325]

This post made me think about just building it with the 4 link for the same reasons I'd go with a GT40 head 5.0. I could always sub in a 5 link later on. Right?

You can, but it will be a lot easier during the build. Why build with a known problem suspension?

To me, without the 15" wheels, it's just not a Cobra.

15s do look great. Just be aware of what they tie you into.

What in tarnation are people spending over $100 to mask off?

Stripes, edges, openings, undersides of hood and trunk, etc. Automotive grade tape is not cheap. Leave everything open and you will have overspray everywhere. You can also blow dust from under the body and the buck back onto the paint. Taping stripes takes a lot of tape if you want crisp edges and no bleed-trough.

In fact, am starting to think about just using plasti-dip, instead.

I don't even know what to say to that one. Are you serious? You may be a candidate for the "$50 Rustolium paint job". Google it.

I've heard very compelling arguments that big brakes do not improve these cars. I'm tending toward agreeing with them.

They obviously haven't driven one with stock brakes and then one with Wilwoods, or taken a physics class. I drove a MKI with donor brakes and it was terrifying, not in a fun way. The Wilwoods will nearly detach your retinas.

The bottom line is build what you want. You are doing the best thing that you can at this point by researching and asking questions. It is all part of the fun.

[Wjhutchings]

If you're thinking about a 5 link, then I suggest you look at Gordon Levy's. Just FYI - it has to be welded in place, so changing from 4 links to 5 later on could be problematic.