silly question regarding the pedal box

[michael pavon]

Hi,

First of all, allow me to introduce my self:
Mike, from McAllen, Texas, 41 and really exited about the project!!

Now back to business

Just finish installing the pedal box, and noticed the clutch pedal have a very limited travel distance, one side hits the restriction bolt BUT in the
other side (closer to the engine bay, of course) it hits the frame in a very odd and wrong way, attached is a picture, hopefully you guys can make sense out of that
thank you for any tip you guys can provide here.. even a "HEY DUMB, ITS SO OBVIOUS: bla bla"

have a great day!

[mmklaxer]

welcome! search this site for wilwood clutch pedal fix. Some guys notch the pedal to allow the full range of travel, others cut the 3/4" tub and patch a bridge of sorts (bolt-on, welded 1" tube surround, etc. lots of options, but this is a known problem. look around for what works best for you.

[coyobra]

Hi Mike,

Not sure if your situation is the same as the common problem most people have with the pedal box issue, but there are a few options you might need to choose between and use. 1) Cutting a notch in the frame so the arm can pass by or 2) cutting a notch in the clutch arm. Here's a picture and video that one of the guys (sorry, I forgot the name) shared on the forum. See if that's the same issue you have....... (You might need to cut and past the video in your browser. Not sure if you'll be able to click on the picture to access)

Attachments area
https://youtu.be/gKTRcxtc43w <----- Quick video

DSCF1634.png

[dmoran]

This is probably the most informative thread and the one that I recently used for my decision:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...erence-problem

Good luck on your build, you should start a build thread so we can follow. When you have "the" clutch pedal issue, it proves to us that you are really building a FFR :-)
Doug

[michael pavon]

unnamed.jpg

WAW!!!!
Thank you guys for your prompt answer, my heart jumps, jejeje
i'm going to try to go with coyobra's advice and notch the clutch pedal. I really don't want to mess with the frame, tomorrow will try and post my results.
going with dmoran's advice of starting a tread for the projects development, will do!
i'm mint new into this blog forums world, so please, please be very patient with me.
finally have couple more questions, don't know if to ask right here of to open a new tread, so will give it a shoot here...
my front suspension upper arms came with NO dust covers, called FF offices and Courtney gave me a model (chrysler late 70's early 80's one) to get from my local
auto parts shop, BUT what i got was not the right one, here is a picture of my problem... again... jejeje.. any thoughts?
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!

[RRussellTx]

Is the blue plastic piece not the dust cover?

Here it's the ball joint I received with the kit and it has a blue dust cover almost like the one in your picture...
image.jpg

Anyway, I used the same Howe Racing part number 22320s that Edwardb used so I'm not using the ones that FF sent with the kit.
Let me know if you want mine from the kit and I'll send them your way.

[2bking]

unnamed.jpg

WAW!!!!
Thank you guys for your prompt answer, my heart jumps, jejeje
i'm going to try to go with coyobra's advice and notch the clutch pedal. I really don't want to mess with the frame, tomorrow will try and post my results.
going with dmoran's advice of starting a tread for the projects development, will do!
i'm mint new into this blog forums world, so please, please be very patient with me.
finally have couple more questions, don't know if to ask right here of to open a new tread, so will give it a shoot here...
my front suspension upper arms came with NO dust covers, called FF offices and Courtney gave me a model (chrysler late 70's early 80's one) to get from my local
auto parts shop, BUT what i got was not the right one, here is a picture of my problem... again... jejeje.. any thoughts?
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!

I think you have the balljoint screwed in from the wrong side and left and right parts reversed. The outer short side of the balljoint mount should be on the lower side of the A arm. It's on page 35 of my build manual and states "the ball joint angles out at the bottom."
The blue part in your picture looks to be the correct dust boot and will be held in place when the tapered shaft of the balljoint is installed in the spindle. There are some pictures of it installed on page 45 of my manual.

[edwardb]

I think you have the balljoint screwed in from the wrong side and left and right parts reversed. The outer short side of the balljoint mount should be on the lower side of the A arm. It's on page 35 of my build manual and states "the ball joint angles out at the bottom." The blue part in your picture looks to be the correct dust boot and will be held in place when the tapered shaft of the balljoint is installed in the spindle. There are some pictures of it installed on page 45 of my manual.

Yep. The ball joint mount as pictured is upside down and has to be corrected. You're in good company. This has been noted on multiple builds. The instructions say to mount the UCA's with the grease fittings pointing up and the ball joint mount pointing out. Unfortunately, recently the UCA's are not assembled correctly from the supplier to allow this. You need to take them apart and reassemble in the correct orientation. Not hard to do.

For the ball joint boots, Energy Suspension 5.13102G Ball Joint Dust Boot for Chrysler are the right size and also an upgrade for the FF supplied parts. This part number is for two pairs (upper and lower) and you only need the uppers. Only way they come as far as I know. But not expensive. $10-15 for all depending on where you buy them.

[michael pavon]

ok, good to know. The dust cover showed in the picture came COVERING the dust cover already install within the balljoint ALREADY installed within the lower arm.. go and figure in the mean time will look into the manual, thank you!

[michael pavon]

thank you for your input yes they look similar, but if you pay close attention you can tell the one in my picture is "flat" meaning do not have the "wrinkles", it came protecting the bottom ball joints in the first place.
let me ask you a question.. just saw the Howe Racing ball joints page, and notice they claim theirs to be more strong, is that the reason you got inclined to use those? have a great day!

[michael pavon]

Is the blue plastic piece not the dust cover?

Here it's the ball joint I received with the kit and it has a blue dust cover almost like the one in your picture...
image.jpg

Anyway, I used the same Howe Racing part number 22320s that Edwardb used so I'm not using the ones that FF sent with the kit.
Let me know if you want mine from the kit and I'll send them your way.

thank you very much for your generous offer however just ordered the upgrade ones from Energy Suspension, have a great day!!

[michael pavon]

I think you have the balljoint screwed in from the wrong side and left and right parts reversed. The outer short side of the balljoint mount should be on the lower side of the A arm. It's on page 35 of my build manual and states "the ball joint angles out at the bottom."
The blue part in your picture looks to be the correct dust boot and will be held in place when the tapered shaft of the balljoint is installed in the spindle. There are some pictures of it installed on page 45 of my manual.

THANK YOU! WILL GET THAT CORRECTED RIGHT AWAY

[pstockha]

Yep. The ball joint mount as pictured is upside down and has to be corrected. You're in good company. This has been noted on multiple builds. The instructions say to mount the UCA's with the grease fittings pointing up and the ball joint mount pointing out. Unfortunately, recently the UCA's are not assembled correctly from the supplier to allow this. You need to take them apart and reassemble in the correct orientation. Not hard to do.

For the front UCA's that were assembled incorrectly, does it actually matter if the grease fittings point up or down as long as you have the ball joints pointed outward as they should? In my build I noticed that because of how my UCA's were assembled I had to mount the UCAs with the grease fittings pointing down to have the ball joints point outward. Stupidly I didn't think of taking them apart, so I just mounted them that way. Am I ok, or do I need to switch them?

[edwardb]

For the front UCA's that were assembled incorrectly, does it actually matter if the grease fittings point up or down as long as you have the ball joints pointed outward as they should? In my build I noticed that because of how my UCA's were assembled I had to mount the UCAs with the grease fittings pointing down to have the ball joints point outward. Stupidly I didn't think of taking them apart, so I just mounted them that way. Am I ok, or do I need to switch them?

Switch 'em. One could argue whether the grease fittings are more accessible pointing up or down. Pretty similar either way. But the real issue is the geometry of the pivots. If you look at them from the end, you'll see the connections are off center. They are designed to be off center toward the top (if that makes sense), the same side as the grease fittings.

[Bill Waters]

Tomorrow I'll be welding in a solution to the problem you have, along with the rest of us, discovered.

[AC Bill]

Unfortunately, recently the UCA's are not assembled correctly from the supplier to allow this. You need to take them apart and reassemble in the correct orientation.

Twits..Wonder where they are assembled..or should I ask..It's maybe better I don't know..lol