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Thread: King's MK4 Coyote Build

  1. #1
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    King's MK4 Coyote Build

    I jumped in and ordered a MK4 complete Kit that should be delivered about Aug. 8. While waiting, I have been busy ordering the drivetrain parts. The plan is for the Coyote engine, Tremec 600 transmission, 3.55 gears in the IRS with the Torsen differential. I'm thinking about using a hydraulic clutch and will have to make that decision soon. I've experienced some really fast turnarounds from the suppliers so I have shelves full of parts. I have a frame roller built but the fit may need adjusting as I couldn't find and dimensions for the frame and best support points. This forum stuff is new to me so I will have to figure out how to include the pictures.
    The Boss said she was onboard with the build if I would paint it to match her car so the color RED is decided. The other colors are yet to be decided. I've driven Jason nuts with the changes to the order but now the die is cast and will be on the truck early next week. I'm looking forward to the build.

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2bking View Post
    I have a frame roller built but the fit may need adjusting as I couldn't find and dimensions for the frame and best support points. This forum stuff is new to me so I will have to figure out how to include the pictures.
    Congratulations and welcome to the madness! You're in for a great time. This forum is a great resource, plus so is the other one if you don't know about it. A quick search found a bunch of threads for a frame dolly, including this one:

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...ml#post2113463
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  3. #3
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Thanks for the link. I'm a member there too and thought I searched it. Mine puts the bottom of the frame 9.5" off the floor but after looking at that one, I think I will add some height and tweak the length.

  4. #4
    Mustang Convert bansheekev's Avatar
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    Welcome! I am building a MKIV, Coyote, QuickTime bellhousing, hydraulic clutch, TKO-600, and an IRS with a Eaton Tru-Trac w/ 3.55's. Obviously we think alike. I am a month or two from first start having just out the drivetrain in the car last week. Ask lots of questions, there are plenty of good experiences answers!

    Kevin
    MKIV, IRS/TruTrack/3.55s, Coyote, TKO600, Wilwoods
    Delivered: 1/6/2012
    First Start: 1/19/2014
    First Go-Kart: 2/1/2014
    Graduation: 1/4/2015
    Graduation Thread

  5. #5
    Welcome to the forum and community. The fun will start shortly-enjoy your stay.
    Doug

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by bansheekev View Post
    Welcome! I am building a MKIV, Coyote, QuickTime bellhousing, hydraulic clutch, TKO-600, and an IRS with a Eaton Tru-Trac w/ 3.55's. Obviously we think alike. I am a month or two from first start having just out the drivetrain in the car last week. Ask lots of questions, there are plenty of good experiences answers!

    Kevin
    ... and nearly identical to my setup... except 3.73 gears and Kevin has better brakes IIRC. I highly recommend the hydraulic clutch setup. If I did it over again I would probably go the hydraulic bearing route instead of hydraulic slave.

  7. #7
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    If I did it over again I would probably go the hydraulic bearing route instead of hydraulic slave.
    I was thinking I wanted the hydraulic bearing but heard that they were unreliable and a pain to change. My 27 T Roadster had the slave and I liked not having to adjust the linkage.

    Well, the kit was due to depart FFR Aug. 5 but I hear some frame issues halted deliveries so the wait continues. It may ship this week.

    My son has graciously given me use of his new shop for this build so there are a lot of things to be done. One of the nice to have items is an overhead lift on a trolley, something that will come in handy for more than just this build. I put my engineering talent to use designing this and have about 75% of it built. It should be completed later this week

  8. #8
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Still Waiting

    My Kit was ready for pick-up Aug 3, Stewart Transport loaded it Aug 12 and it been touring the country ever since. Last Tuesday it was sitting on their dock in Arizona and the dispatcher says I should get it next Monday, Sept. 9. They refunded me $200 for being late. Maybe I should have had the fun of a trip to the factory and picked it up myself.

    My Kit list:
    Complete Roadster Kit
    Uncoated chassis
    Body cut-outs
    Up graded Wilwood Brakes
    Coyote package without J pipes and headers
    Leather seats
    Wind wings and sun visor
    Polished side pipes
    Halibrand Vintage Wheels (17x9 front / 17x10.5 rear)
    Delete Gauges
    Stainless Steel Bumper Kit
    Wiper Kit
    Battery Cut-off switch
    Independent Rear Suspension

    I have received most of the drive train parts and some require assembly. I'm using a Tremec 600 for the transmission and wanted the mid-shift conversion. I searched the internet for the Tremec kit only to find it was discontinued. Mike Forte had a conversion kit so I got his and installed it.
    .DSCF4051.JPGDSCF4052.JPGDSCF4052.JPGDSCF4053.JPGDSCF4055.JPGDSCF4057.JPGDSCF4059.JPGDSCF4063.JPGDSCF4051.JPGDSCF4052.JPGDSCF4052.JPGDSCF4053.JPGDSCF4055.JPGDSCF4057.JPG
    While I had the tail housing off, I cut the lower mounting boss away and smooth the cut line [/I]DSCF4059.JPGDSCF4063.JPG

    I considered getting a rear clip for the IRS parts needed. I started to add the cost of refurbishing and cleaning. I decided I would save a little money but would risk having to replace some unforeseen item and have to manage the carcass. It seemed to make sense to get new ones so I ordered the diff, gears and housing from Ford Racing. I installed the gears per the Ford Racing Instructions but I didn't have the gage blocks so the pinion shim was calculated after measuring between the rear pinion bearing and the ring gear centerline. That seemed to be accurate because of the tooth contact after the backlash was shimmed to .010.DSCF4068.JPG
    I'm not sure how the axles will fit into the diff so I will wait for the kit before mounting the rear cover. Hopefully my next post will show some pictures of the arrival. Until then I will work on how to make these pictures go where I want them.
    Last edited by 2bking; 09-06-2013 at 03:26 PM.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by 2bking View Post
    Thanks for the link. I'm a member there too and thought I searched it. Mine puts the bottom of the frame 9.5" off the floor but after looking at that one, I think I will add some height and tweak the length.
    Just in case you don't know....over there, the search in the forum is not that good. Either go down to the bottom of the page and use the search box there, or do a google search for whatever you want with ffcars in the search.

  10. #10
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Today was a good day. The kit arrived about 9 am in the big truck. DSCF4071sm.jpg Out it came and the driver, Jim, and my son pulled it to the shop. DSCF4073sm.jpgDSCF4077sm.jpg.

    The rest of the day was spent inventorying the boxes and taking pictures of the sheet metal that came on the frame. I have found a few parts to be missing but am impressed with the packing and quality. Hopefully tomorrow I can spend some fun time starting the build.

  11. #11
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    DAY ONE IS ALWAYS A GOOD ONE.
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  12. #12
    Congratulations! I am building a similar car - Coyote engine, etc - but with under-car exhaust.

    The Coyote is a tight fit in the engine compartment -- make sure FF sends you the correct sheet metal parts for the driver's foot box.

    David

  13. #13
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Thanks David. I only remember one panel and it was for the left front foot box. The Coyote package wasn't with the kit but is on the way now. Are the panels part of that? Do you have a build thread or pictures?

    I ordered the frame bare so I could clean up the weld splatter and make a few mods. I'm moving the parking brake to the top of the transmission tunnel so it will be within reach when belted in. I know its not period correct but I would rather have it useful. I spent a few hours figuring out if it was doable and have an idea for the mod. I'm going to have to wait until later in the build to finalize the plan so I decided to go ahead with the frame painting.

    I've got the frame washed and prepped for paint but the phosphoric coating from the etch that is supposed to inhibit rust seems to allow a gold tone to appear on the bare metal and lots of white residue also. I have sprayed the frame down three times trying to find a method the stops the rusting when it dries. It looks perfect before rinsing with water. Washing the etch off with soap and water keeps most of the flash rust at bay but produces a lot of white residue. Its well etched now so I'm going to spend some time wiping it down and then start painting.

  14. #14
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Before I washed and prepped the frame, I foamed the open tubes that I could see.
    DSCF4120d.jpg

    Unfortunately there are a lot of tubes connected without full weld at the intersection which allowed the liquids to enter. The water/soap/metal etch is still coming out as the frame is turned. As you can see from the pictures, I used my host to position the frame for cleaning and painting so turning it in the different positions allows the liquids to find a way out. The X braces at the door openings and vertical IRS members are the main leakers but a few of the 3/4" square tubes have some wet spots as well.

    Another thing I have noticed is a "frame twist" in the 4" main tubes. I search the forums and found a lot of doubters but it is real. When the frame is on the dolley with about 5' between the end support points, it has about 3/8" space under one of the diagonal points and rolling it around the shop doesn't make it go away. The long 4" tubes have a bow in them assumedly from all the parts welded to the top side. My 4' level shows about 1/4" over its span. I haven't spent time measuring all this exactly because I can't do anything about it but it may affect the some subtle things like header clearance.

    So here is the frame after four rounds of metal etch and washing.
    DSCF4127d.jpg

    The phosphoric coating is supposed to stop the flash rust but I couldn't make it happen and I searched the forums for other pictures and they seemed to look similar to mine so I quit the prep and started to paint. I got a quart of POR 15 and brushes but read some threads where they sprayed it on and got a better finish so I changed my mind and went with spray with some good news and bad. First the good news: the frame looks good; the bad news: I have permanent black dust in the far ends of the shop.
    I used a painters drop cloth and had some settle through it to the floor. So, in the pictures, some of the shadows on the white floor aren't.

    Here's the frame painted.
    DSCF4129d.jpg

    I wanted to keep the aluminum panels shinny for the radiated heat reflection properties around the foot boxes. I also didn't want to polish them. I tried to do the Scotch brite pad but the F panels had some scratches too deep so out came the RA sander. The combination of it and the Scotch brite pad made a finish I had confidence I could reproduce on the other panels. I planned (plan A) to use Sharkhide to finish them. I purchased some and tried it. It seems nothing more than a wipe on lacquer and offers "up to" two years of protection. That's not good enough for panels that can't be accessed nor do I want the maintenance headache of refinishing them. Plan B was to spray a clear finish over the panels (I'm thinking DiamondFinish by KBS Coatings) but I'm lacking the materials for now. I had some left over automotive clear top coat paint so I applied it to the two F panels and installed them. The directions for it don't list bare metal as a substrate so I'm not going to use it on the remaining panels. Here are the panels installed with some suspension work started.
    DSCF4131d.jpg

    Tomorrow I will do more suspension work.
    Last edited by 2bking; 09-22-2013 at 10:32 AM. Reason: pictures

  15. #15
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Its been awhile since my last post so this is an update on progress and activities. I completed assembly of the front suspension and installed the power rack. I safety wired the Wilwood brake rotor screws in groups of four (I didn't have a tool). They aren't real pretty but the screws won't back out. Here are some before and after photos.
    DSCF4132d.jpgDSCF4136d.jpg

    There are quite a few bare metal parts in the kit that need a finish. I came to a place in the build where I needed to install some of them so I had to make a decision on color and finish type. I really like the powder coat and being a DIY guy, I starting looking at some U Tube videos on the process and equipment needed. I watch some where they were using the Eastwood kits and were getting very good results and the process seemed very easy. I just needed the powder gun and an oven plus a few other goodies like tape and hole plugs. One Thanksgiving we needed an extra oven and a midnight trip around the neighborhood before trash pick-up day yielded a good working electric range (but no racks so my son made some out of scrap expanded metal). It had been gathering dust for a few years so I put it to use. I ordered a kit from Eastwood.
    DSCF4140d.jpg
    I built a cardboard paint booth using some FFR shipping boxes, a furnace filter, and a desk top fan. The painting process uses an electrostatic charge to attract the powder to the parts so I made a metal horizontal rod to hang the parts from and attached the ground clip outside the box to the U bolts supporting the rod.
    DSCF4138d.jpgDSCF4145d.jpg
    I cleaned the parts using Marine Clean and Metal Ready and chamfered the laser cut edges.
    DSCF4141d.jpg
    The following pictures are before and after in the paint booth and then loaded into the oven. The broiler heating element with all its crooks and turns made an excellent way to hang the parts inside the oven.
    DSCF4142d.jpgDSCF4144d.jpgDSCF4139d.jpg
    I set the oven to 450F and waited for the powder to start to melt . I then turned down the temperature to 400F and let the parts cook for about 20 minutes. I an very pleased with the results and I can't see any difference between the FFR ones and mine. Here are the E Brake and Petal Box assembled with the coated parts.
    DSCF4146d.jpg

    I think I'm done painting for now so I can get back to assembling parts.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  16. #16
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    I had forgotten about or maybe I thought the Wilwood clutch pedal clearance issue had been fixed. But as I installed the Wilwood pedal box, I found the same problem that has been discussed on this and the other forum. The clutch pedal hits the 3/4" square frame tube at its halfway travel regardless of the type of clutch release method you are using. I'm using a hydraulic clutch. For me, there seems to be only 4 solutions:
    1. Adjust the clutch pedal so at rest it is above the brake thus giving it more swing before it hits.
    2. Use a MC with a larger bore than the slave thus less travel to release the brake but more leg effort.
    3. Cut the 3/4" sq. frame tube to allow full pedal travel.
    4. Cut the pedal arm to clear the frame.

    Everyone seems to line up on the solution they prefer for different reasons. I don't want the clutch pedal above the brake or more leg effort so I'm down to cutting something. It looks like cutting that darn frame is very inviting and easy and leaving that pretty arm alone is a good choice. But after thinking about it, I decided cutting the pedal is the right choice. I can leave the frame as designed as there are loads that go through the tube that are not obvious and I don't want a kinked frame member because something hit the quick jack. If it turns out that the pedal arm breaks, I can replace it and weld a stiffener on the side of the new one.

    Here are the photos of the cut in the arm. If you want to see the interference, you can search the forums and find tons of pictures and discussion. I powder coated the cut but didn't have a satin black power that would have better matched the anodized black on the factory finish. The only black powder I have is gloss so I tried to feather it out around the cut. No one can see this after it's installed unless they want to hurt themselves by sticking their head under the steering wheel.
    DSCF4150d.jpg DSCF4149d.jpg DSCF4150d.jpg DSCF4151d.jpg DSCF4152d.jpg
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  17. #17
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I assume you also read the multiple threads on the clutch arm breaking? The piece you have is a newer design because the original Wilwood part was prone to breaking. As I understand, this new beefier arm is the reason for the frame interference compared to the original design. Cutting the 3/4 tube is an OK choice if properly reinforced, either by welding or bolting in a new piece on the outside of the existing tube. Lots of choices during these builds for sure. Your build looks great BTW.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-29-2013 at 04:51 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  18. #18
    I would of not cut that clutch arm..In the middle of no where and things tend to break..Cut, notch and plate in the 1x1 tube would of been a better option..Do you know how to weld?

  19. #19
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Well..to those that want to cut the tube, I agree its looks nice and neat but that's a piece of my crash protection. The tube, although seemingly non load bearing at the place of cutting, does help keep the frame intact and moving together should an impact in the left frontal area occur. I would rather have a broken clutch pedal (I can still get home with that problem) than a 3/4 piece of tube stuck in my throat after some accident. And, jetsbaby and edwardb are correct that adding a plate could restore the strength of the tube after cutting the notch, but part of my decision was the fact that I would have to completely remove the pedal box, cut, grind, weld, and repaint the area.

    I'm using a hydraulic clutch so the twisting and breaking of the pedal is not an issue for me but that problem was above the pedal pivot anyway. I did the math (45 years of engineering experience and a PE) to see what stress would be in the area of the pedal cut. Not knowing exactly what aluminum alloy this is, I assumed a 30,000 psi yield which is near the bottom of casting alloys. If it takes 50 lbs on the clutch pedal to release the clutch (I think that is 2X what it should be-maybe some of you can give me a real number), the stress in the remaining pedal arm where I cut it would be around 14,000 psi. Fatigue of metal doesn't occur until the repeated stress exceeds 50% of the yield strength. So, that's the straight down load but there could possibly be a side load that would bend the pedal toward/away from the brake. I calculated that one too and it will take 100 lbs at the pedal bottom with no bending.

    I have a welder, actually four types-acetylene, arc, MIG and TIG and will be using them on parts of this build but maybe I was lazy here not wanting to rework the tube. The math says I should be OK.
    Last edited by 2bking; 09-29-2013 at 10:52 PM.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  20. #20
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Today was pumpkin mounting day. I purchased the Ford Racing Aluminum Differential Carrier housing and cover, M-4010-G3. I installed the ring and pinion, bearings and cover. I cleaned the outside and painted it.
    DSCF4153d.jpgDSCF4156d.jpg

    Before attempting to load it into the frame, I did a measurement check to make sure it would fit the frame mounts. I discovered the rear frame mounts had 1 3/8" between them and my pumpkin had a 1 1/2" wide mounting boss. Just a silly little 1/8" interference.
    DSCF4158d.jpg

    One side of the pumpkin boss was machined while the other had spot faces for bolt heads. The FFR frame touches both sides so the spot faces needed to go away. I assumed the machined side was at the correct location and the 1/8" needed to be removed from the side with the spot faces so I loaded it on the mill and removed the offending material.
    DSCF4159d.jpgDSCF4161d.jpg

    This housing has some bolt holes on either side fairly close to the CG so attaching the lifting straps there would make it easier to manipulate it through the frame. After the first few tries, I was sure it was not going through the hole and it needed some serious grinding to make it go. Turning it 180 made some significant difference and after rubbing the paint off, it reluctantly gave up and popped through. Without the hoist and several methods of lifting it, it wasn't going to happen. And I'm sure it will not come out the way it went in after more assembly.
    DSCF4164d.jpgDSCF4168d.jpgDSCF4166d.jpg

    Some missing paint
    DSCF4171d.jpg

    Finally where it belongs
    DSCF4173d.jpg

    I touched up the paint and called it a day. I'm still waiting on the CV/axle shafts.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  21. #21
    King,

    Nice thread and you just finished the hardest part of the build (at least for me) so far. I had to trim the pumpkin to get it up into the IRS frame.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  22. #22
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Thanks Carl, I have been following your build thread. If I can make mine look as good as yours, I'll be pleased.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  23. #23
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    King-

    Awesome start to your build, and great thread!

    I wish I had some of your tools. Or, at least lived closer. You know the old saying: what's better than having a workshop full of tools? Having a neighbor with a workshop full of tools!

    Thanks for sharing the info and pictures, and good luck moving forward!

    Regards,

    Steve

  24. #24
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Steve, I have that neighbor. He's my son and we share a shop, or I should say he is letting me use part of his. Between us, we have a lot of tools in the chest. I always did all of my auto repairs and bought the tools as I needed them plus some machinery. He does commercial refrigeration and kitchen repairs for the restaurants so he has some impressive toys in his chest also. He built on to his existing shop this year and I helped with interior work. It's a nice playground. He painted the walls white and epoxy coated the floors in white also. A little light goes a long way. He did the same to the older building and it makes finding lost items on the floor very easy. The epoxy also makes cleaning/sweeping easy.

    Today I did a test fit of the coyote with headers to see how the clearances around the engine would be. My first try was with the stock oil pan on the engine and I had to raise the frame on dolly to get the motor mounts to rest on the frame brackets.
    DSCF4174d.jpg ]DSCF4175d.jpg
    Even with the Coyote sheet metal mods, it is very tight. I'm not happy with the pedal room given up with the new sheet metal so I'm going to go down the same path as other builders and get some back plus increase the clearance around the headers where they turn the corner going out.

    While I had the engine on the hoist, I removed the stock oil pan to replace it with the Moroso low profile one I had purchased. I was greeted with a full pan of oil I didn't expect. At least it wasn't hot.
    DSCF4180d.jpg DSCF4186d.jpg DSCF4187d.jpg

    When I emptied the oil from the pan, I noticed flakes of metal in the bottom. Hopefully its new engine debris and not a bearing going away in the brief time the factory tested it. I don't know if I should be concerned but its getting new oil.
    DSCF4191d.jpg

    I cleaned the Moroso pan and pick-up tube, powder coated it black, and installed it without any problems. The low oil switch screw in and connected back to the engine harness. I put the engine back in the frame for another check and all looks good. The oil pan sits even with the bottom of the 4" tubes. It was getting late and I forgot to take pictures.

    If anyone reading this has the Moroso pan, I'm wondering if the weight of it (about 20 lbs) is an issue. The stock pan weighs about 3? lbs. The Moroso pan is built tough; I think I can jack the whole car up with it. I'm adding 17 lbs to the car just to get a shallow oil pan. I'm not happy about that.

    Happiness is pile of empty boxes!
    DSCF4192d.jpg

    Tomorrow I will start modifying sheet metal.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  25. #25
    I am amazed you got the ford racing pumpkin to go in with the cover. After an hour or so, I decided it wasn't going to fit through the hole with the cover on, of course me and a friend were doing it by hand without a hoist. Without the cover it went right in, then I reinstalled the cover.

    Dennis

  26. #26
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Dennis, I thought it wasn't going in also and was thinking of removing the cover but wasn't convinced that would help. I was ready to make a bolt-in section to the tube with the fuel tank supports to get it in and out later if need be. With a bolt in section of that tube removed, the pumpkin will fit through easy. My son wanted to try it one more time and it aligned itself a little different than the previous try. It got stuck half way through the IRS mounting tubes. A little push/pull rocking it and it popped through. It wasn't going in without the hoist.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  27. #27
    That removable tube might be a good idea. I have the FFMetal battery box back there. I have been waiting to rivet it in until I gokart, just in case I have some issues. I am worried i might not even be able to get the cover off without taking half the car apart. I am thinking about mounting the battery box with rivnuts instead, so i could get it out of the way if I had to.

    Dennis

  28. #28
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    I got the Coyote install option as part of the kit that includes DS foot box sheet metal that makes more clearance for the engine. Unfortunately it removes foot room inside the foot box that resulted in very little space between the brake pedal and side wall. My #9 tennis shoe could barely fit in the space to get to the accelerator so I wanted to regain the lost room. I spent a few days modeling the frame in ProE and found a Ford Racing step file for the Coyote engine on one of the forums.

    In a previous post I showed the Coyote in the frame with the Stainless Headers and at that time I saw there was very little room between the headers and the inside corner of the foot box. I wanted to get more room there as well while redoing the sheet metal. I noted the 3/4" sq tubing at the corner could be moved back and rewelded without any structural loss to facilitate a large corner radius in the sheet metal. So here is the plan in ProE format.
    mk4_frame1d.jpg

    I purchased the necessary .040 6061-T6 sheet metal, drew out the flat patterns obtained from ProE in full scale on butcher paper, glued the paper patterns to the metal with spray adhesive, and cut them out. To keep from scratching the back side, I glued a blank paper to it. The following photos show the process and the pieces with the paper removed.
    DSCF4213dd.jpgDSCF4215d.JPG DSCF4216d.jpg DSCF4227d.jpg

    I did a test fit and it looks to be very accurate although it looks a little sloppy in photos because the 3/4" sq tube hasn't been moved but you can get the idea. Here is the factory Coyote sheet metal and then my design.
    DSCF4206d.jpg DSCF4221d.jpg

    This photo is showing the inside of the foot box. The sheet metal looks to be dented but its just reflections giving the illusion.
    DSCF4224d.JPG

    Here is a cross section in ProE showing header and motor clearance.
    mk4_chassis.jpg

    Tomorrow I will start the frame mod to allow the installation.
    Last edited by 2bking; 10-16-2013 at 10:00 AM.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  29. #29
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    [QUOTE=2bking;119859]Steve, I have that neighbor. He's my son and we share a shop, or I should say he is letting me use part of his. Between us, we have a lot of tools in the chest. I always did all of my auto repairs and bought the tools as I needed them plus some machinery. He does commercial refrigeration and kitchen repairs for the restaurants so he has some impressive toys in his chest also. He built on to his existing shop this year and I helped with interior work. It's a nice playground. He painted the walls white and epoxy coated the floors in white also. A little light goes a long way. He did the same to the older building and it makes finding lost items on the floor very easy. The epoxy also makes cleaning/sweeping easy.

    King-

    That's terrific! I am in a similar situation as you in regards to tools. A decent collection from years of repairs and maintenance. However, machinery is a different matter. But I give it my best effort. I am sure your son is as pleased to have you as a neighbor as you are to have him. I like the idea of the white epoxy on the floor. I bet it also brightens up the space, and makes any dropped parts easier to find. I drop stuff all the time and spend too much time searching...

    Thanks again for keeping the thread going! It is really a great help seeing others' builds, especially when they are this detailed. It goes a long way to help formulate ideas to incorporate into my own build, and also learn from your build tips. Thank you for providing the level of detail you are including! Keep the good stuff coming and best of luck going forward!

    Regards,

    Steve

  30. #30
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    I have been working the trunk modifications to increase room and mount the battery and ISIS Power Module. From information I have found on the forums, the gas tank mounting was designed to fold down and under in the event of a rear end impact so I didn't want to make changes that would prevent the intent. From observation of the tube structure bracing the rear body mounting and gas tank support structure, it is apparent that it is stiff but not strong and will collapse rather easily with a rear/side impact. The whole structure is fabricated from thin wall 3/4" sq. tube. I am going to cut out the internal bracing so I need to replace it with a similar structure and not touch the forward gas tank mounting struts. The final look (no covers shown) will be this:
    mk4_chassis2.jpg

    I built the lower frame out of 3/4" sq. tube with the "X" for a crush zone thus making it stiff but with a weak zone.
    DSCF4232d.jpg

    After I welded all the parts together, I attached it to the IRS "X" tubes and the rear body mounting and gas tank support structure.
    DSCF4233d.jpg

    After I had it welded in place, I cut out the original bracing and welded the remaining parts in place. The DS forward gas tank strut needed a jog to clear the ISIS compartment so I rebuilt it and welded it back to to the 1" cross tube. It will fold back just like the original. The completed frame mods are shown here:
    DSCF4238d.jpg

    I plan to use the Optima battery and it can be mounted in any orientation so I'm laying it on its side to slide in and out of the compartment. The bar I designed to secure it in place is a quick release so maintenance will be simple. Now back to making the sheet metal.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  31. #31
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Torsen/Axle issue

    I took a couple of weeks off to go to Branson, Mo with the wife. We had a good time and saw a lot of fall color in the landscape. Some of the roads in the Ozarks made me wish I had the roadster finished.

    I have been doing work-arounds while waiting on the back ordered CV axles for the IRS because I couldn't finish the brakes and rear suspension without them. I called the factory to find out when they might be delivered and was told about the end of Nov. They had axle assemblies that were too short but had the correct center shaft parts if I wanted to disassemble and replace the short shafts. Sounded good so they sent the parts. It was pretty quick removing the band clamps on the boots and c-rings holding the axle ends. I was able to reuse the boot clamps and the whole process took about 2 hours. For reference the short shaft part numbers are 14839 and the correct one are 15506. The difference in length is about .500 in. See picture below.

    DSCF4257d.jpg DSCF4259d.jpg

    I had reluctantly installed the pumpkin without having the axles to fit check. I had read on the forums about a fit problem where the axles would not lock into the torsen differential. Sure enough, mine were no different-they wouldn't lock in. I did all the problem checking, grease on the axle end and paint in the splines to verify the splines on the axle were not long enough-about .030 inch short. Others had lengthen them using a dremel so I gave it a shot. Here's the process and work in progress.

    DSCF4245md.jpgDSCF4246d.jpg

    The next fit check was a success.

    DSCF4250m.jpg

    I have to thank the forums and information I have found here for making this a quick fix for what could have been a very perplexing problem.
    Last edited by 2bking; 11-12-2013 at 02:01 AM.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  32. #32
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Wow, I guess I have missed the short spline thing. Glad it is a fix as I have read a couple of threads w/ the problem.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  33. #33
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    King,
    I really like your re-design of the DS foot box panels. I have the FF panel installed temporarily for my Coyote install. I would like to do your design but do not have the knowledge to run the Pro E program you used. I am not using the stainless headers but continuing on with the FF original headers with J pipes, therefore I believe I don't need to move the 3/4 tube or create the radius you incorporated in the new panel. Is there anyway you could help me out. Thanks.

    MTDR
    Tim
    Mount Dora, FL
    352 729-4356

  34. #34
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    What an amazing build thread!

    Cheers, Dale
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  35. #35
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    Tim - I have several patterns. PM me with what you want to change and I think I can help.

    Dale- Thanks, I'm about three or more months behind you in my build. All these modifications take time and I'm a little slow but I think I have everything done now except the dash. Its going to be different from anything I've seen but maybe not completely original.

    I wanted to move the parking brake to a usable location so one of the first things I did was to cut out the factory mounting frame and cable guides. I needed all that gone to force me to redesign the linkage for a new location. After the Thanksgiving visits I started thinking on the design and looked at the different alternatives. I determined I could use the factory handle with a few modifications as the right angle brackets provided many mounting options. I was thinking I would need new cables but the factory ones worked with new ends. As with my other mods, I used ProE to work out the details. One of my requirements was to have a balance bar to equalize the left and right cable forces which seemed to be missing from all the mods I had seen on the forums. Below is the design I worked out in ProE.

    mk4_chassis_eb1.jpg

    The next task was to make the parts and mod the handle. I purchased the cable ends from Aircraft Spruce along with the bushings and nuts. For looks and to keep the handle with a low profile, I needed to bend it down about 22 degrees. I was prepared to redo the button release after bending but after a little tweak, it functioned just fine. The first thing I did was to drill out the handle from the original 3/8 dia. to 1/2 to give more room for the release mechanism and to make bending easier. The following pictures are the drilling and bending.

    DSCF4313d.JPG DSCF4315d.JPG DSCF4316d.JPG

    As you can see, I heated it red hot to bend it. The next pictures are of the parts, cable guide, bell crank, and crank mount I needed to make. The bell crank is made from .063 steel sheet and welded together. The pivot at the crank mount received oil lite bushings. The cable guide and crank mount are made from 1/8 steel. The balance bar (not shown) is made from 1/2 dia. steed rod. I powder coated the parts black.

    DSCF4309d.JPG DSCF4311d.JPGDSCF4306d.JPG

    The next pictures are of the trial fit. I ordered extras of the cable ends and needed them as I cut the cables a little long and didn't have enough adjustment. I cut those off, shorten the cables and attached new ends.

    DSCF4321d.JPG DSCF4324d.JPG DSCF4325d.JPG

    The parking brake came with two spherical rod ends with .25-28 UNF threads and I reused them on the connecting rod I made from 3/8 dia. stock with the threads to screw them on. That provided another adjustment to get full travel of the brake handle. I noticed the parking brake return springs on the Willwood calipers were not strong enough to pull the cables completely back so I plan to add some more spring force there.

    I'm ready to run fuel and brake lines but I need to get the ABS module first. I haven't gotten any response from the local salvage yards.
    Last edited by 2bking; 12-23-2013 at 02:12 AM.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  36. #36
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    Your design D/S foot box

    King,
    I am trying to share some photos but not sure if this will work. First attempt. Any way your design worked perfect for me. If the pix come though you will see four old guys cramming the Coyote in for test fit. I took the poster board used for mock up to a local shop to bend the panel. It looks great! In the process of sending E-brake,hinges and other bare metal to powder coating.

    Thanks,
    Tim


    P1150207.JPGKing's design.JPGD:S foot box mock up.JPG

  37. #37
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    I'm happy it worked for you. I have several others wanting to do the same sheet metal mod so the pictures are good for seeing the results.

    I've been working on a tractor for the past few weeks so no progress on #8127.

    2014-02-01 19.18.45d.jpg


    I now have all the ABS parts that were holding up the brake line routing so that's my next task.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  38. #38
    Junior Member Hondros's Avatar
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    Really love the way you are using CAD technology to make this vehicle even more unique while improving it at the sametime.

  39. #39
    Senior Member 2bking's Avatar
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    ABS Pump Mounting

    Really love the way you are using CAD technology to make this vehicle even more unique while improving it at the sametime.
    Thanks Hondros, the designing is as much fun as the building. I've spent as much time on the computer as I have building.

    I used my ProE model to find space to mount the ABS Pump. I tried many different locations but the area I really wanted to place was low on the firewall. I didn't have the factory mounting bracket so I had to start from scratch. I got a new pump off Ebay very cheap and when it arrived, the box smelled of smoke so it must have come from a dealership fire. The special mounting studs and rubber isolators were included in the box so all I had to do was make a bracket to hold it. I designed the bracket using the 3/4 sq tube I removed from the trunk area where I captured the space over the gas tank. I purchased some 16 ga steel when I got the aluminum sheet so I had that to use at the mounting points. The plans and material is shown here. Click on the pictures for the larger size:
    DSCF4363d.JPG

    This is the finished mount before powder coating:
    DSCF4365d.JPG

    When I make parts using the model and they fit, it validates the model. When they don't fit, either the part or model is screwed up. Well, it didn't fit because of a mistake in the model so back to the drawing board to find the problem. After looking through the model and comparing it to pictures of the frame, I found and corrected the model and altered the mount as needed by adding a jog to the lower mounting leg. I did a test fit and drilled the frame at the mounting points. When the ABS pump/mount is in the vehicle, one of the nuts holding the pump to mount is inaccessible so the mount and pump has to be removed as a unit. I picked the mounting points on the frame so as to be easily accessible after the car is finished. I used rev nuts in the frame so I wouldn't have to hassle with any far side nuts.

    I powdered coated the mount:
    DSCF4368d.JPG

    And mounted it in the car:
    DSCF4370d.JPG

    I can now run the brake lines so that is my next task.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  40. #40
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Sweet location for the ABS module! I'll bet you know exactly the clearance from the left head. Maybe an inch?
    Last edited by DaleG; 03-18-2014 at 01:20 AM.
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

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