About to pull the trigger on a 818c

[SoCalK61000]

So im about to pull the trigger on the 818c kit and thinking of a couple upgrades when I order


Wilwood pedal kit:

Pros and cons? should I wait and get it later? I have found just the pedal box on a few other sites for a bit cheaper or should I get it now? is there better out there?

Alloy shift box:
Again Is it worth it? is there better to get?

The plan with the car is strictly track

[Innkeepr]

The plan with the car is strictly track

Why going with the extra cost of a "C" model when the "R" is a track car ?

If you want to get straight into racing, a member has this offer for sale
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replica-Kit-...m=222136992426

Here is the link -http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21126-818R-for-sale
Incredible deal.

[THE FURNACE]

I sent the aluminum shifter back, after reading about the cables exiting the front, before going all the way to the back, and being 15' long. I will be using the MR 2 shifter instead, with 7' long cables.
Innkeeper sent you an ebay link. Ready to go!

[redfogo]

I have the OEM pedals I really see no benefit of the wilwood box for the price. Maybe someone else can chime in who has tested both.

[Sgt.Gator]

Keep in mind that an 818C will be very difficult to put a competition roll cage in if you ever plan on racing.
And I'm too big to get out the window if the door is jammed shut and the car is on fire.

[wallace18]

Having built 3 818S's and have sat in the 818C , I highly suggest the 818R over a C for racing. You will have to make a custom roll cage and exit and entry will be difficult in the C. The window is very small. JMO. Best of luck.

[lance corsi]

+1 on that opinion. Plus the extra weight of the hard top.

[Buzz Skyline]

Stock pedal box and MR2 shifter both are great (and the cheapest options). I've never used the Wilwood pedal box, so I don't know what I might be missing there, but cables going out the back mean the MR2 shifter is the best shifting option, as I see it. I started with the shifter included with the kit, it was ugly and flexy but the real problem is the crazy long cables.

[SoCalK61000]

I went with the 818C for the top, I don't like the idea of tracking an open cockpit car. It will be used for track days not competition

I saw the one on eBay it's nice but way outta my price range.

Thinking I'm gonna hold off on the pedal box from FF and get one later on, I like the idea of simplified plumbing and the balance bar. Was just thinking it may be something that was needed to be ordered with kit due to the kit having specific parts for it Vs the stock box.

Seams like the MR2 shifter is pretty popular tho, what about the K tuned one? Any input on them?

[TX-Lou]

I went with the 818C for the top, I don't like the idea of tracking an open cockpit car. It will be used for track days not competition

I saw the one on eBay it's nice but way outta my price range.

Thinking I'm gonna hold off on the pedal box from FF and get one later on, I like the idea of simplified plumbing and the balance bar. Was just thinking it may be something that was needed to be ordered with kit due to the kit having specific parts for it Vs the stock box.

Seams like the MR2 shifter is pretty popular tho, what about the K tuned one? Any input on them?

We are going with the OEM pedals and the K-tuned shifter (ordered from Wayne) in our build.

- Lou

[JeromeS13]

I went with the 818C for the top, I don't like the idea of tracking an open cockpit car. It will be used for track days not competition

I saw the one on eBay it's nice but way outta my price range.

Just curious what your budget is for a track prepped 818C? If you think $28K is "way outta" your price range, you're going to be in for some unfortunate surprises...

[Innkeepr]

Just curious what your budget is for a track prepped 818C? If you think $28K is "way outta" your price range, you're going to be in for some unfortunate surprises...

Exactly - 28K is a steal, the builder figures 40 Large into this build.
My MK II FFR had a budget of 25K, that was about 10K low, and still making changes...grrrrr.

[redfogo]

40K that will be one hell of an 818 I hope!

[SoCalK61000]

Just curious what your budget is for a track prepped 818C? If you think $28K is "way outta" your price range, you're going to be in for some unfortunate surprises...

I'm expecting 25-30k into the car for sure. Guess I should have been more clear when I say way outta my price range, it's out of my price range as far as what disposable cash I have right now to spend at one time. The 14k for the kit was hard enough to save up for lol. The few thousand here and there will be much easier to do than such a large chunk of cash.......


PLUS this is going to be a fun project for me and my son to build together so I don't want one complete anyways.

[C.Plavan]

Just curious what your budget is for a track prepped 818C? If you think $28K is "way outta" your price range, you're going to be in for some unfortunate surprises...

This X 100000000000- Just walk away now if you think you can build it for under $28k...

Also- I have not seen any reports on other 818C's being driven and there is still the "Big Elephant" in the room- After my 818R, I can't imagine the heat inside the C's cabin. "C" stands for "Convection" Oven in my book. You have hot radiator lines going through the cabin, massive heat behind you 1 foot away. Aluminum heat shielding/Heat reflective tape can only do so much. No A/C, then there is that roof to trap it all in. Granted, my 818R was track only- but the heat from the turbo, Exhaust pipes, radiator lines, oil lines/coolers, AWIC all adds up. I was taken back by how much heat the car could produce, and I have been racing cars for 20 years.

I too did not like the open top of the 818R on the track (Racing against cars 2x's the weight of me). The cage design should of been more robust in the R for racing (The NASA Scrutineers had issues with it also), but for track days is fine. Heck, I had to add a real bumper and wing mount because that was not provided. I would of rather bought a 818C and put a real racing cage in it, than the R (but then there is that heat thing). As Gator mentioned, I don't think I would be able to get out the window, but could have used the doors.

If you are solely going to be using it on the track and not racing- Go for the R. That way if you decide to race, you can beef up the cage. Or, get the 818C and see if you fit through the window (Or make an Xbar on the doors and still utilize the doors). The fiberglass doors are not going to protect you at track speeds. Either way, just know making one of these reliable and fast on the track you will be spending $30k+ without labor. I was over $35k in just parts, but I had all the good stuff. I finally got it running awesome, then sold it for $25k to help fund a real race car (With a roof).

I never felt the need for the Wilwood pedal box- the stock pedals worked perfectly fine for shifting, braking, heel toeing, etc. No issues at all.

Wayne's K-Tuned shifter was the bomb. I really liked that shifter.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Thinking I'm gonna hold off on the pedal box from FF and get one later on, I like the idea of simplified plumbing and the balance bar. Was just thinking it may be something that was needed to be ordered with kit due to the kit having specific parts for it Vs the stock box.

The kit does have different parts for the Wilwood pedal box including modifications to what's welded to the chassis. There is a plate welded to the frame that the pedal box mounts to, and then three of the firewall panels are different. So adding it after ordering will be a bit of a feat.

That being said, the Wilwood set is very adjustable over the factor pedals but it does have some mounting quirks to it. There is no disassembly of the factory booster, you can basically toss it in the trash, so thats a big bonus. Plus it looks much more custom and high end then the factory box. I recently finished mounting mine if you want to see some pics.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Pedal-Install

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post239317

[07FIREBLADE]

Where in SoCal are you located. I have a S that I'm converting to a C. Your more than welcome to come by and talk shop.

[RetroRacing]

We went a different way with the shifter, used the K-tuned RSX racing shifter, special cables and shift mechanism out back, but stupidly short shift and exact movement. Not cheap, probably $1,000 in parts and labor. The MR2 would be my second choice, with a short shifter.

[SoCalK61000]

Where in SoCal are you located. I have a S that I'm converting to a C. Your more than welcome to come by and talk shop.

I'm in the IE...... Colton to be exact, what about you? I'd love to come by and check it out sometime

We went a different way with the shifter, used the K-tuned RSX racing shifter, special cables and shift mechanism out back, but stupidly short shift and exact movement. Not cheap, probably $1,000 in parts and labor. The MR2 would be my second choice, with a short shifter.

Yeah looking like the Mr2 shifter will be the way I go.

[07FIREBLADE]

Orange County fountain valley or you could meet me at my work in lake forest. Just PM me when you want to set something up. I also did the k tune shifter but my setup isn't $1000.

[Mitch Wright]

I could have done my car for well under 28K using a stock OE parts and limiting the mods I have done.

[C.Plavan]

I could have done my car for well under 28K using a stock OE parts and limiting the mods I have done.

But what is the fun in that?

[SoCalK61000]

Did not think about the heat thing lol. Will have to look into something to fix that.

I don't think I can build it for less than 28k but I think 25-30 is realistic, I work at a shop also so 90% of the parts I get will be at cost

My point with 28k being way outta my price range is caused from the ability to drop 28k cash at one time anytime soon. 15k is what I have to spend right now.

[AZPete]

I'm with Mitch and could have built my 818S for well under 28K but opted for many upgrades, such as the K-Tuned shifter from Wayne at Very Cool Parts. Most builders do not put their coolant lines through the cabin and most do not have the engine heat problems that Chad encountered before he sold his 818R. I hope you've done enough research to learn that Factory Five has thousands of devoted customers, and of course a handful of unsuccessful ones. I'm envious that you will build the 818 as a father-son project because that experience will add immensely to the value.

[jcpresto]

I have an 818C. It's going for dyno next week. It all depends on what you want. I had the same thought 25-28k. I'm at 35 now with no body started. I have heat and AC. Should put down low 400 on E85. I have 7k just in seats, wheels, tires, and transmission. So if your not worried about power and want stock sure I can believe your numbers. I have changed and upgraded so many things. Just be aware those of us who are driving them or about ready to drive what we are in. And I've helped built 11 vehicles for SEMA, they don't get cheaper working in a shop, they get more cause you can incision changes.

[Hindsight]

Just shy of $40k here, for an S.

Some of the more expensive add-ons I purchased are:
- Traction control
- Limited slip diff
- Wheels & tires
- Air-water intercooler setup including TiAL bypass valve
- Remote oil cooler setup
- Racing seats
- High performance clutch with new flywheel
- Motor and transmission mounts
- All new fuel system including pump, lines, rails (but not injectors)
- Suspension components (aluminum front lower control arms, adjustable modified lower rear trailing arms to enable running wide tires)
- All new wheel bearings and seals
- New brake pads
- Air oil separator
- Killer-b oil pickup and baffle
- Bunch of aftermarket gauges (oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, air intake temp, wideband o2 sensor)

... and a bunch of bolts and metals to fabricate many things I didn't like that came in the kit. For a race car, I would think you'd want all the stuff I just listed except for maybe the traction control which would be nice but you don't absolutely need. I got my donor for about $4k delivered.

It adds up quick. But you can take your time and buy it slowly. You will likely be very surprised about how much you spend in the end.

[SoCalK61000]

Getting a bit off track here lol. I know it's going to cost me more to build it than what I can buy one already done for. The problem is I don't have the funds to buy a complete car I have to build it over time. Weather I end up at 20 or 50k isint the issue or question I was simply asking about a couple upgrades and if they should be purchased with the kit or not lol. I appreciate all the advice tho for sure and think I actually will switch my kit to the S model, the in cabin heat thing never crossed my mind

[AZPete]

That's a good idea since you can convert your S to a C later, if you like, since the hard top is a retro-fit. That's what I'm doing when I get my hard top next week, but I've also put in air conditioning since I live in the AZ desert. Yikes, today the forecast is for 112 F!

[Mitch Wright]

What worked well for me is I haven't put any pressure on myself to get the car done by X date. I did start with a budget that I have revised a number times and I have changed my timeline a number of times due to up-grade parts or things I wanted to change. The upside is I am building the car I wanted to build and having a blast doing it.
I agree with others if you are building a track only car I would think a better choice would be a R IMHO.

[SoCalK61000]

yeah I just dont like to look of the R or the thought of having to step on the seats to get in or having to have my son climb around on the seats to get in lol....It will see just a little bit of street time also so the last thing I need is the girlfriend having to step over and into the car

[lance corsi]

For the record, I'll be in at around $43k by the time I finish, but I've done lots of mods. If I'd have known this, I may not have bought mine. It is a fun project though.

[wmaurojr]

I'm also getting close to ordering an 818, but I'm worried that I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too: I'd really like to have a passenger seat and the removable hard-top of the C, but ultimately want to get into NASA competition when the car comes together. Does anyone know/have experience getting the best of both worlds?

[STiPWRD]

I'm also getting close to ordering an 818, but I'm worried that I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too: I'd really like to have a passenger seat and the removable hard-top of the C, but ultimately want to get into NASA competition when the car comes together. Does anyone know/have experience getting the best of both worlds?

Are you saying NASA competition precludes you from having a hard top or passenger seat? Are you considering between the 818R and 818C? If the concern is about the safety of racing an 818C, a full roll cage can be fabricated in the C:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post224866

[wmaurojr]

Are you saying NASA competition precludes you from having a hard top or passenger seat? Are you considering between the 818R and 818C? If the concern is about the safety of racing an 818C, a full roll cage can be fabricated in the C:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post224866

I'm definitely not an authority on NASA regulations, and I noticed in the brochure that the R boasted an NASA-worthy frame. I'm aiming toward NASA competition and really just wanted to make sure nothing about the S or C did in fact preclude me from those two things. As much as I want to get the car on the track, I'd also really like to have the hard top and ability to have a passenger. I spoke with Wayne from VCP and what you said is right on the mark with what he told me; a race-worthy roll cage is absolutely doable in the C--it'll just need to be fabricated. Thanks for the link to Lance's; I'll undoubtedly use it for reference/inspiration when I get to that point in the build.

[flynntuna]

Wayne has posted that he's planed a center drive 818c. And I think Dave expressed interest for a future model.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/archi...p/t-19051.html

[Canadian818]

You guys are braver than me adding up those numbers. I stopped after I had already eclipsed 20k with just the kit and donor. I just know I'm almost finished with big purchases, however the little ones add up fast.

[codename Bil Doe]

The C window looks a lot easier to get out of than my current race car, a Solstice GXP with fixed cf roof and head bolster blocking part of it. C window looks like a bus window in comparison.