how many folks used featherlite/slicksand

[Newkitguy]

Hey guys just wondering how many guys used either of them? Niavely I was hoping that these bodies wouldn't need them but in order to do a decent black paint job I feel like it's needed.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I’ve used both and prefer Slick Sand over Featherfill (not Featherlite) because it builds more per coat and sands a bit easier. Evercoat also has a new 4:1 polyester product called Optyx that I’m going to try on the next one.

Jeff

[Ajzride]

I used it for the first time about two years ago, I'll never do another paint job without it. It saves hundreds of hours getting out sanding scratches. You can cut your entire body with 80 grit to get your shape, sand it smooth with 120, then spray the slicksand and come back with 400 to block it flat for final sealing.

[Jacob McCrea]

I used Slick Sand for the first time on my coupe, having used a good volume of epoxies and 2-part, high-build urethanes in the past. It's a very impressive product, and I'd have a hard time imagining a better product for a fiberglass body needing a lot of filler to make it straight. Mixing small amounts with the little tubes of catalyst can be awkward, and do make sure it doesn't kick in the gun. Bottom line: I'd use Slick Sand again without hesitation.

[Hobby Racer]

I used it for the first time about two years ago, I'll never do another paint job without it. It saves hundreds of hours getting out sanding scratches. You can cut your entire body with 80 grit to get your shape, sand it smooth with 120, then spray the slicksand and come back with 400 to block it flat for final sealing.

I second this method. Did it on my Roadster and it came out beautiful!

[aquillen]

I used Featherfill. A quart would have done the whole body (coupe at that), but I needed 1-1/2 QT because of the conversion I did on the front from 3 part to single piece hood bonnet (those seams took a lot of work to beautify). I did a bunch of reading and either would work - something made me decide Featherfill over Slicksand, but I don't recall what it was. Obviously either is a great product - people favor either one depending on who's posting..

[Newkitguy]

yeah totally meant featherfill and glad you guys realized what I was referring to. all good info and appreciate the feedback. the paint and body work is slow going but it's getting there. are you guys shooting 2k over slick sand before sealing? or just going straight from featherfill/slick sand right to sealing then color?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Slicksand blocked with 150 dry...the stuff cures hard as a rock which tends to compromise a strictly chemical bond so in my opinion it needs to offer some mechanical "tooth" for the subsequent 2K urethane primer/surfacer (I use PPG Shopline JP202). The 2K gets blocked 320 dry followed by 600 wet. Catalyzed sealer (PPG Shopline JP335/337) over the primer/surfacer; nib sand any dust @ 600 then immediately to basecoat. Sealer MUST be covered with base within 72 hours but I prefer to get it on much sooner.

Jeff

[Newkitguy]

jeff, thanks thats the plan/procedure i'm following so hearing someone else say it makes me feel a lot better.