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Thread: Oil not getting to driver side head

  1. #1
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Oil not getting to driver side head

    So original stock 302, changed gaskets and oil pump. Passenger side getting oil, driver side not ? Thoughts ?

  2. #2
    Boydster's Avatar
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    First thought is a popped oil galley plug. Behind the timing cover. Either that or a blockage.

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    while running or cranking?

  4. #4
    Master Builder
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    IS this a "used engine or a rebuild? I agree about the galley plug but I thought that the drivers head side gets it oil last and from the rear of the engine but I could be wrong, hell my wife tells me Im always wrong.

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    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by first time builder View Post
    IS this a "used engine or a rebuild? I agree about the galley plug but I thought that the drivers head side gets it oil last and from the rear of the engine but I could be wrong, hell my wife tells me Im always wrong.

    Same here, yes dear your right! Always Its a used engine, when I first started pulled off valve cover after a few min run there was oil on passenger side . None on driver. Just now after a few short runs, both driver side bone dry, passenger some oil. Put the drill on pump and no oil coming up anywhere. Think I may pull the oil pump and ck it out.

  6. #6
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Pulled oil filter for hahas and all milky white oil! Could that be the galley plug not being installed ?

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    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    White milky oil=water/coolant

    Jeff

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    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    White milky oil=water/coolant

    Jeff
    That's what I thought, great so never had this happen before what's the first step in looking for culprit? I was thinking of pulling heads and looking at the gaskets

  9. #9
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    The head gaskets are #1 usual cause of milky oil but...could it cause a total lack of oil to one head? I don't know but hopefully someone else does. I just don't want you to pull heads etc and still have no oil to one head.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    I'm wondering if you got the wrong gaskets for the engine, mis-packaged or whatever? Holes in all the wrong places?

  11. #11
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    I'm wondering if you got the wrong gaskets for the engine, mis-packaged or whatever? Holes in all the wrong places?
    They seemed to line up fine going to pull intake tonight

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    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    The oil for the head comes up the pushrods from the lifters. Oil galleries feed oil to the lifter bosses in the block. The wrong head gaskets won't stop the oil coming up but may prevent it draining back down through the block. Head gaskets, cracked heads, intake manifold gaskets and timing cover gasket are the usual suspects for water in the oil. I supposed a cracked block could do it too but that would present other symptoms.

    I would pull the timing cover first. Check the oil gallery plugs and the gasket area around the water pump ports into the block.

    Good Luck

    Norm

  13. #13
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Thanks Norm will do that

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    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Before pulling anything apart pressure test the system to see if you can isolate where the coolant is escaping.

    Jeff

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    If there is a blown head gasket and its turning the oil milky maybe the oil pump is making foam and not pushing it thru the engine oil line properly.

    Just a guess !!

    Kenny

  16. #16
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    Jeff is correct. Pressure test first. Maybe, as Kenny suggested, the coolant leak is the original problem. Oil and water mixed becomes very thick (like margarine) and won't flow into the pick up for the oil pump. Don't run the engine again until this problem is fixed and the oil is replaced. The bearings could be seriously damaged.

    Norm

  17. #17
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    All great suggestions guys, will start with pressure test, maybe Advanced loans one. Will keep you all updated

  18. #18
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Before pulling anything apart pressure test the system to see if you can isolate where the coolant is escaping.Jeff
    Presume you mean with a coolant system pressure tester?
    I can understand seeing the gauge drop from pressure leaking somewhere in the coolant system, so you know there's an issue, but how could you isolate where it's leaking, say it's a head gasket, cracked block/head type scenerio? Wouldn't that only work if it was an external leak, IE water pump seal/gasket, coolant hose, or radiator type of thing?

  19. #19
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    So pressure test showed nothing much looked to hold pressure so next step ? Also, when I ran the oil pump with filter removed all white milky oil came out of filter housing

  20. #20
    Master Builder
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    cooling system pressure test might not show up a leaking head gasket or worse a crack. With that milky oil I think you have to start a tear down.

    Kenny

  21. #21
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by first time builder View Post
    cooling system pressure test might not show up a leaking head gasket or worse a crack. With that milky oil I think you have to start a tear down.

    Kenny
    Agreed, I have seen head gaskets cause oil leak into coolant, coolant into oil, leak only when hot, leak as the engine cools, coolant into combustion chamber. When you remove the head try your best to preserve the gasket so you can look for damage. Good luck. And don't forget, you seem to have two separate problems so there may be two causes.
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    If the oil is that bad I would do a complete tear down and cleaning, That milky stuff tends to "hide" in all the small spots inside the engine and come back to bite you later.
    Seen it happen a few times even after a flush. And don't forget to check radiator for oil contamination.
    Kenny

  23. #23
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Ok, so update:

    Drained coolant - green
    Drained oil - green then beige colored oil
    Removed pan and timing cover, I can not see a galley plug behind the cover?
    Intake tomorrow

  24. #24
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Did you check behind the cam gear?

  25. #25
    No quarter JNC's Avatar
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    These plugs

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by JNC; 09-17-2016 at 09:17 AM. Reason: pic testing

  26. #26
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bil1024 View Post
    Ok, so update:

    Drained coolant - green
    Drained oil - green then beige colored oil
    Removed pan and timing cover, I can not see a galley plug behind the cover?
    Intake tomorrow
    You've seen enough. Antifreeze in the pan means that since you've run it and circulated it throughout it really should come totally apart--- #1) to find the source #2) because antifreeze will wipe out main and rod bearings in about the amount of time it takes to snap your fingers. A missing galley plug will result in virtually no oil pressure. Sorry...

    Jeff

  27. #27
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JNC View Post
    These plugs

    Galley_Plugs.JPG
    Yep those plugs are there

  28. #28
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Jeff Kleiner;250967]You've seen enough. Antifreeze in the pan means that since you've run it and circulated it throughout it really should come totally apart--- #1) to find the source #2) because antifreeze will wipe out main and rod bearings in about the amount of time it takes to snap your fingers. A missing galley plug will result in virtually no oil pressure. Sorry...

    Jeff

    Yeah getting that feeling

  29. #29
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    So removed intake, pic from valley, wonder if coolant leaked under the gasket then drained into the pan ? Removing heads next

    DSC02055.JPG

  30. #30
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    if intake wasn't drained completely, some anti freeze can wind up in lifter galley when you remove manifold. But look for signs of leaking past gasket.
    Kenny

  31. #31
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    You are looking at a complete tear down. The grey oil coolant mix coming out the top of the lifter in your picture means the engine is fully contaminated with the stuff.

    Good Luck

    Norm

  32. #32
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    If you found green anti freeze in the oil pan before you removed intake or timming cover , you have a BIG leak.
    Kenny

  33. #33
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    X2

    As usual, I totally agree with Jeff. Time for a complete tear down of this block. No getting around that fact. ANY water (w/ antifreeze) in the oiling system and it's contaminated throughout. You can't just flush it with an oil change or two.
    Water and antifreeze do not make for a good lubricant and will wipe out main and rod bearings in the blink of an eye.
    Tear this engine down, look for obvious breaches in your gasket surfaces. SBF intake manifolds are notorious for improper installation and a major source of "water in the oil" condition, more so then head gaskets.
    Good luck . . . keep us informed along the way during your rebuild.

    Doc
    Last edited by Big Blocker; 09-18-2016 at 10:22 AM.
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  34. #34
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    As many above have suggested, you really need to do a complete tear-down, complete cleaning, and inspection. The contamination will be in every area of the engine and you should plan to remove all oil gallery plugs and use a rifle cleaning kit to scrub these areas. If this is a low mileage or new engine and you plan to reuse wear items then the inspection should include checking bearing clearances. If reusing the cam and lifters you’ll want to ensure the lifters go back into the same position. Same with rod and main bearings. If this is a donor now is a good time to overhaul it as the amount of work you’re going to be doing is about the same as an overhaul.

  35. #35
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Removed head and water in the pistons, also saw a little damage on intake gasket near coolant port, not sure if that caused itDSC02056.JPGDSC02057.JPGDSC02058.JPG

  36. #36
    No quarter JNC's Avatar
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    I'm sure curious about your test results after seeing those pics...

    Quote Originally Posted by bil1024 View Post
    So pressure test showed nothing much looked to hold pressure so next step ? Also, when I ran the oil pump with filter removed all white milky oil came out of filter housing
    2010 FFR Mk4 - 306 EFI, T5Z mid-shift, IRS 3:31 Truetrac, 15" staggered wheels, manual steering & brakes and heated seats

  37. #37
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    I see blue rtv on intake rear surface , thats not factory so engine has at least had Intake off at one point. The antifreeze on the piston now is from removing the head. If there was antifreeze leaking into a clyinder that piston would be cleaner than the rest. The photo of the intake port is blurry and cant see anything. The good news is its now much lighter to pull it out of the car. You have to make a decision to rebuild this or go for another engine.
    Kenny

  38. #38
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JNC View Post
    I'm sure curious about your test results after seeing those pics...
    Test showed no leakage that's what's gotten me scratching my head

  39. #39
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by first time builder View Post
    I see blue rtv on intake rear surface , thats not factory so engine has at least had Intake off at one point. The antifreeze on the piston now is from removing the head. If there was antifreeze leaking into a clyinder that piston would be cleaner than the rest. The photo of the intake port is blurry and cant see anything. The good news is its now much lighter to pull it out of the car. You have to make a decision to rebuild this or go for another engine.
    Kenny
    Yep another pickle ! Thinking of picking up a 302 that's local and run ok and throw it in for now while I determine what happened. As soon as I pulled the head up a tad water come pouring out from the front end

  40. #40
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    You fully drained the cooling system before disassembly and there's still that much coolant in the block? Somethings not quite right there. Was the drain on the block plugged?
    If the block wasn't fully drained then I wouldn't make any assumptions based on the coolant in the cylinders or valley as it could have easily got there during the tear down. Very carefully inspect the head and intake gaskets.

    Norm

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