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Thread: Rear end questions. (Not proctologist related!)

  1. #1
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    Rear end questions. (Not proctologist related!)

    So I think we are pretty set on a complete kit. I'm now on the search for a rear end. With the kit we will be getting then17x10 halibrands for the rear of the car. This has me a bit confused on the rear end. Which year mustang should I be looking for the rear end off of to go with the f5 3 link that will also be 5 lug and fit the wheels that are being purchased??

    From what I gather, fox body tears are the narrowest but are 4 lug, 94-98s are a little wider but 5 lug, and above 98 they are even wider...

    Can anyone shed some light on which is the best to look for?? Fox width and change out axles to 5 lug or wil the 94-98 fit the wheels and tires I am looking at?

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    Yes Fox width rear and change axles to 5-lug and of course rear disc brakes. Also a True-Track diff and some 3.31 gears.
    Basically you need a housing, a pinion flange, and maybe rear cover and bolts. everything else will probably be new.
    There are people who can provide the complete assembly and are well familliar with the FFR Roadster such as Fortes Parts Connection, HTC Racing.
    www.breezeautomotive.com 2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.

  3. #3

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Moser Engineering offers a Dana-44 Variant, with the 3 link already welded in place, and it is their TSD-500 unit designed specifically to fit the Factory Five's. Just understand that if you go with this rear end you will have to shorten your already stubby drive shaft about an inch or so.

    Since I'm building an MK-4 Roadster, please know that my drive line is NOT Ford based so a custom drive shaft was needed anyway so that's why I chose the Moser rear assembly. The differential is a worm drive Eaton Sure Track Style system that uses NO clutches or ratcheting gears.

    Finally, I used Ford Explorer brakes which made hooking up the E-Brake cables a snap.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-24-2016 at 11:49 AM.

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    So other than a set of fox length axles it's just a standard rebuild of a rear end??

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    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Unfortunately there is no single model year rear axle w/ what you want. Fox width 59.25 will fit the most common wheels but they were all drum brakes and 4 lugs. 94+ axles will have 5 lugs and discs but, while the housing is the same width, the axles themselves are too long so need shorter axles and caliper mounts. 99 and later the housing and the axles are too long. So yes, it is a standard rebuild although the ratio is seldom what you want in an FFR. BTW, I would go w/ the Ford lim slip unit w/ the carbon fiber clutches. I took My TrueTRac out in June because it wore itself out and there are no parts available and installed the above Ford unit. It is a hell of lot nicer to drive w/o the excess driveline slop the Truetrac had.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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    Member JRD56's Avatar
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    I just finished building a rear end for a MK3 I'm building. I'm using the 17X10 Halibrands also so you have to use the fox width rear end. But as mentioned they are likely 4 lub drum brakes. After talking with Richard Obin at North Racecars I bought a kit from him that included the axles, caliper brackets (they are offset), loaded calipers, and the larger 11.6 inch rotors. The small stock rotors would look funny in the 17 inch wheels.

    If you go with a original Ford carrier make sure it is a traction-lock (most mustangs are). Put new bearings, clutches and seals in it. Be sure to keep track of the left/right shims and the pinion shims so it goes back together with them in the same place.

    You'll also want to consider putting "anti-moan" brackets on the caliper plates. I'm told this keeps the brakes from making noise at slow speed in reverse. I made my own with 2-3/4 muffler clamps. See pics below.

    You'll also likely need to install the calipers on the front of the housing to allow clearance for the coilover shocks. The picture does not show my reversed, I learned this later.....

    IMG_3206[1].JPGIMG_3204[1].JPGIMG_3314.JPG

  7. #7
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    By far the easiest thing to do is contact one of the forum vendors and buy a completed rear with everything you want. If you decide to build your own the possibilities are almost endless, but you may save a few $$ depending on your choices. As the previous posts show, there is no single answer.
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

  8. #8
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I haven't ordered my kit yet, but I purchased a complete '88 mustang rear axle a few months back. I'm going to take out all the stock components, sell what I can, then build it again with all new parts. I'm planning to go with 31 spline/5 lug axles, 31 spline Ford Trac Lock, a 3.55 gear set. I should be able to do all that for several hundred cheaper than what you can buy and ship completed axles. My goal is to mount some of Gordon Levy's Wilwood 4 piston brakes that fit FFR 15" rims.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-24-2016 at 11:29 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

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    I've got a few questions. Where are you from? I see you have chosen a drivetrain from Forte's. As long as Mike knows how your car is going to be used, I would use a gear ratio that was close to his recommendation. He knows how much power and torque you will have at what rpm. I've also seen that he has new axles in stock. I ordered my rear brakes with the kit from FFR, they fit right on the rear Mike built for me. Are you doing the bodywork and paint too? Especially with three assistants, I think it is smart to buy a complete kit. My build is in month 25.

    Glen

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    once i swap out the axels to fox length 5 lugs how do i determine the bracket needed for the caliper?? I have a set of 2010 GT 2 piston calipers and rotors that have been given to me. They are takeoffs with very little milage. He has everything from soft lines, caliper brackets, calipers, and rotors.

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