#9196 475hp 347 MK4 Roadster Build (Insurance and Plates)

[TexasAviator]

I think in the short term - you'll be fine if you modify your pickup (or buy a pickup) that gets you down to 3/8" - 7/16" off the bottom of the pan.

So long as you bear in mind you can't thrash it around like a race car in that condition - you know what to watch for.


Reasonable cost recommendations (for later)...

What's it cost to fix rod journals / Clevite bearings / etc?


I have the Kevko RR pan and pickup listed here: https://kevkoracing.com/collections/...pan-302-engine

I'll bet it's very similar to the Canton RR pan here (except the Kevko is 7.5" deep and rear sump, barely stays above my frame rails, maybe 1/4" - Mk4 351w): https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...ion&key=15-680

Breeze has this one that uses the stock pickup (which one???), but I'm not a fan of the "hump" pans, and it doesn't appear to have RR baffles (but some baffles are probably better than "none"): http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=892



Additionally, now I also run an Accusump (probably don't bother unless you plumb it "right" - $): https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...ion&key=24-006

I think you rr pan is the best setup for the price that I have found. I did some research and there are many options but the kevko stuff seems to have it all and is at a great price. Did it come with the pickup or do I have to add that to the cost?

I'll chime in here and agree with the others. This is to far from the bottom of the pan. I've designed a few pickup tubes here at work and our rule is .25" to .38". All of the ones I've done are for Chevys (BBC, SBC and LS), but I wouldn't think Fords would be any different.

Yeah I agree I dont feel comfortable to really pull corners or enjoy the car if I am worried about the oiling. I will have to get rid of the stock pan to be sure of its capability.

Just getting into this thread about your build and I'm liking what I've read so far.

One thing that caught my eye was way back at post #62. From the pictures originally posted, it looks like your upper control arms are mounted up-side-down (in relation to the upper cross shaft pivots) AND all the bolts are installed from the bottom. In the [rare] event that a lock nut would ever come loose, in this instance, the bolt would drop out of its respective hole, causing the upper arm to come apart . . . read: NOT GOOD!
My suggestion is to re-install all the upper arm bolts from the top with the NyLok on the bottom. Call me anal but it's a simple fix for something that may never be an issue . . . but lets me sleep at night, and at any speed above 20 mph.

I thank you for your service . . .

Doc

Thanks for checking in on the build. I did change the bolts to the top and have since cleaned up the front suspension with paint, proper bolt placement and steering geometry dialed in well enough for go cart phase. I will try and get some updates to that soon on my build thread. Thanks for checking in and I am glad to serve. I love our country in spite of its social misgivings.

Way cool!

I know right.