No banjo bolts on master cylinders.

[Usudno]

I got to working on the pedal box on my roadster yesterday and had trouble with both the clutch cable instructions as well as the master cylinder instructions. Both the manual and build videos show an adjuster for the clutch on the aluminum panel. I don't have such a beast in my kit! Also, instead of banjo fittings for my master cylinders i have hose clamps and fittings to go on top of each master cylinder.

If you pass your eye on my build thread, I have pictures of the master cylinders.

Thanks for any help.

[edwardb]

This is a picture of the pedal box from your build thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1482804512

What is the question about the fittings on the master cylinder? Agree it's confusing when the parts don't match the instructions. But those kind of inlets are pretty easy to use. There should be an o-ring around the MC opening, then the cap fits over and is held with a hose clamp. Then your reservoir hoses fit on the inlet. You'll want to point them the other direction. Toward the front of the car. Since it's barbed, some don't use a clamp. I prefer a clamp.

No help on the clutch. I haven't installed that. I've done hydraulic on my builds.

[Usudno]

Yes the fittings are easy to use. Just got it plumbed up a minute ago. I have a call into factory five on the clutch. It just threw me for a loop that there were no banjo bolts. Thanks! I'll update the clutch situation.

[karlos]

Yes, the clutch cable instructions are a bit lacking. I don't believe the kit includes a firewall adjuster as shown in build manual. At least mine didn't. But the cable does have provision for doing the adjustment at the clutch fork. Not a big deal to me to do the adjustment under the car, so I just installed it that way. The first photo shows what the cable attachment looks like at the firewall without the firewall adjuster. If crawling under the car doesn't appeal to you, you can add an aftermarket firewall adjuster if you'd like.

A couple comments. The cable includes a bent sheet metal bracket that's wrapped around a metal ferrule on the cable housing. I couldn't find anyplace remotely close enough to attach that bracket. I know some folks have had success by removing the bracket, swapping it over, and attaching it to the main 4" frame tube. It didn't appear I had enough slack in the cable to use that approach, so I removed the supplied bracket and made up a replacement that grabs the 3/4" chassis tube that runs alongside the steering shaft (second photo, center of the picture). The photo makes it look like the cable is on top of the steering shaft, but it's really not. Just a funky camera perspective. Note that the metal ferrule provides a good place to locate a clamp to attach the cable to the new bracket. This was about the only place I could find to support the cable that keeps it away from the steering shaft as well as the headers.

Although there is 3-4" clearance to the headers, I wrapped the cable in a fiberglass/silicone heat shield. Probably unnecessary, but header heat can break down the Teflon liner in the clutch cable housing and lead to premature failure. Easier to install the shield now than mess with early replacement of the cable later.

Finally, you might want to think about upgrading the cable itself. Either a BBK or a Ford racing cable is generally recommended to reduce clutch pedal effort and to maximize clutch cable life. Part numbers are Ford Racing M-7553-C302 or BBK 3517.

[Usudno]

karlos, I just got off of the phone with Dan at factory five and we have gotten it straight. I didn't have the spacer on my packing list nor did it ship. They are shooting one my way. I'm going to be doing a bit of drilling the next few days. I'll be waiting on my upper steering shaft as well as my fuel level sending unit. Unfortunately this will stop me from installing my fuel tank. The steering shaft shouldn't put much of a damper on things. I appreciate you guys responses.

[karlos]

OK, no problem. I thought you were asking about a firewall adjuster. But, yeah - no spacer is also an issue. Be aware that you'll most likely get the same (non-adjustable) part shown in the photo above, not the adjustable piece that's shown in the build manual. Which is fine provided that the cable provides for adjustment at the clutch fork, and that you don't mind lying on your back to do it

[Usudno]

Yessir. It will not be adjustable. That was confirmed by dan as well

[blitzkreig baja]

Make sure you have the O-Rings for the MC opening. (They were not with my kit) or they will leak. I'll be calling Wilwood and FFR to see where I can get the O-Rings.

This is a picture of the pedal box from your build thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1482804512

What is the question about the fittings on the master cylinder? Agree it's confusing when the parts don't match the instructions. But those kind of inlets are pretty easy to use. There should be an o-ring around the MC opening, then the cap fits over and is held with a hose clamp. Then your reservoir hoses fit on the inlet. You'll want to point them the other direction. Toward the front of the car. Since it's barbed, some don't use a clamp. I prefer a clamp.

No help on the clutch. I haven't installed that. I've done hydraulic on my builds.

[Usudno]

baja, O rings were in my kit.

[wareaglescott]

Make sure you have the O-Rings for the MC opening. (They were not with my kit) or they will leak. I'll be calling Wilwood and FFR to see where I can get the O-Rings.

I had that issue. Called Willwood and they said a bunch had accidentally been sent out without them. I asked to them to send me some and they said I did not buy the master cylinders from them that FFR did and they would need a request from FFR to send them to me. I would have been happy to buy the cheap O-rings from them but they wanted some ridiculous shipping amount so I got FFR to handle it.

[blitzkreig baja]

Thanks. and War Eagle, wareaglescott.