FWIW, the Russ Thompson TS switch is a spdt switch that won't take much amperage . . . don't try to use the momentary push button to power a horn or high beam lights - it won't last very long. Use relays and use Russ' switch to activate the relays.
Wiring is basically very simple when you think of it as; power has to come from somewhere (battery), thru appropriate fuses and then connected to whatever switch(s) the power needs to be controlled by (ignition, headlight, horn button, fan, etc.) before traveling to the device being controlled, and then a return path thru the ground of the vehicle. That's the loop . . . power-->fuse-->switch--> device-->ground.
One wire at a time . . . test every circuit before bolting everything up . . . test with a small lantern battery, NOT your car battery. Turn signals and flashers give the most trouble to everyone because they try to test with only one bulb at a time . . . the flasher(s) need to see full amperage draw in order to flash, one bulb won't do it. Be careful how bulbs are installed, it is possible to get them installed 180° out of sync. That will cause shorts to ground or short-circuits to the other close-by circuits. Tail/marker/running (whatever you want to call them) lights are NOT part of the Brake/TS circuit.
Doc