Making progress on my build...

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yes, there is always some play in the hatch hinges. We do not use any weatherstrip around the hatch opening....mostly because there's no room for it. If you are using the hatch glass, the weight of the glass helps stiffen up the hatch and add enough weight that you don't really notice the play in the hinges as much....

[beeman]

Axle time...
Disassembled, cleaned, reassembled my low mileage donor vette outer CVs. Some CVs have narr/wide race/body orientations, everything on the C5 CVs measured equally. Here is the right orientation of the cage (rounded corners face the boot) and the race (machined lines face the boot - other side is smooth).
Messy job but not bad. Really had to take a full swing with the mallet to get it off the c-clip on the vette axle!
Ordered some Redline CV grease then will pack and install on the FFR axle. Feel free to throw out tips! I think I've read everything I can about the dreaded c-clip...





Here's the correct assembly orientation.

[beeman]

I appreciate the unbiased advice, Mike. Is this the one you are referring to? Looks like a brush applicator can? Thanks.



Addressing the wiggly hatch hinges. I don't mind Piggly Wiggly, but you have to draw the line somewhere. It's cool to design and manufacture your own hinges for a component car, but sometimes it makes more sense to incorporate an OEM off the shelf part that you know works. Like Lamborghini did with their Nissan headlights in the 90s...

[beeman]

I'm going to try something...

[beeman]

I had hoped to do something like this originally, but the FFR hatch hinge and bracket were in the way...

[crash]

You should know that you will likely see some changes to the FFR PDG GTM as far as the diffuser is concerned this year. This is not due to functionality, but because most governing bodies require that the diffuser not protrude past the rear bodywork of the car. (see most other examples posted above) Since we will be running some other race series this year, we will likely have to change the diffuser and possibly the splitter as well. Again, many series rules have a limit as to how much a splitter can extend past the front of the car.

As I have mentioned in the past, when looking at other examples of people doing something on a race car it is important to understand not only what you are seeing, but the context, as far as rules are concerned that maybe limits what the builder is able to do.

What I have done on the FFR PDG GTM and is shown in that picture is essentially lengthen the body in the rear via wing and diffuser placement.

[WIS89]

Dave-

You are a freaking magician!! I really admire what you are doing, and how you are getting it done!

Your vision and execution are extraordinary, and I can't wait to see this thing done; but I am sure enjoying the build process, and the ride you are taking us on!!

Keep up the great work!!

Regards,

Steve

[jamesfr58]

Dave

What year 350z roadster trunk hinge did you use to make your hinge? Looks good and really increases the hatch opening area.

[beeman]

Thanks Jkviper, Steve!

Dave

What year 350z roadster trunk hinge did you use to make your hinge? Looks good and really increases the hatch opening area.

Any of the US spec 350z roadsters/convertible, I think 2004-2008. NOT the coupe/hatchback. It's not plug and play, but really pretty easy to do with some simple welding.

[HardRocker]

I think I’ll steal that hinge idea.

update: I just bought a pair from eBay $18 shipped.

[Taz Rules]

Loving this.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks Dave I have the hatch on now but still not happy with fit so will keep working on it and may change the hinges as the ones you made seem to work great.

[LCD Gauges]

Damn, you have all the answers for this monster!

At times I wish I knew all of these solutions before starting my build. It makes me want to redo my car over and over.

Your hatch contour is pretty much perfect with the roof line.
Did you modify anything, or was it matched "out of the box"?

[beeman]

Damn, you have all the answers for this monster!

At times I wish I knew all of these solutions before starting my build. It makes me want to redo my car over and over.

Your hatch contour is pretty much perfect with the roof line.
Did you modify anything, or was it matched "out of the box"?

It didn't match perfectly out of the box. I think you are referring to this picture (I still have not made any adjustments after welding it in, may need to adjust slightly). The 350z hinges really control the position of the hatch leading edge. There is an adjustment screw built into the hinge as well that allows fine-tuning of the closed position. Before I installed the hinge, the driver's side leading edge of the hatch sat about 1/3" higher than it is in this picture. I placed a weight on that corner of the hatch to hold it symmetric to the passenger side of the hatch while I welded the mounting studs for the hinge to the GTM frame (hinge was already bolted to the hatch). Now it knows where to live in the closed position. The FFR hinges didn't have that control of position, too sloppy.

[HardRocker]

With all the cv and axle work does anyone know a source for the c clips? They have been hard to find.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

With all the cv and axle work does anyone know a source for the c clips? They have been hard to find.

Yeah, I had the same experience.....here is a thread I started on that:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...LE+SPRING+CLIP

I ended up finding some in a box on the shelf here, so never did try to order any or find them to purchase....

[HardRocker]

Thanks Shane. That 22727024 part number did the trick.

[beeman]

OK... Few updates. Life has been busy!
Homemade front fuse/relay box ready for harness wrap.



Confirming that the A/C condensor will fit behind the passenger side intake.





Glassed in the 1/4 windows to match the Honda B-pillars.







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[beeman]

Built up my airbox, almost done. Will make a scoop for the intake (probably 3D printed).











Kind of a pain building the box to fit the body at the air intake and work around the chassis tube!



Upgraded the 3D printer, I kept needing to print things that were too big for the build area on the old printer.




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[beeman]

Just about finished up the airbox. Not trying to win any beauty pageants since the outside will be covered with heat shielding.





Air filter is accessible, the red portion of the airbox will be held in place by screws/rivnuts.

[beeman]

Quick update.
Finishing up the wiring.
Yamaha R1 projectors, but they are switched side-to-side so they had to be cracked open and new beam cutoffs made.




Done, here's a Pic taken just below the cutoff and just above it.

[beeman]

Finishing up the spoiler...

[beeman]

Even back in '94 Honda was using variable resistors to control lighting, wipers, etc. So I'm having to tear switches apart and jump the internals to dumb them down a little.



I wired up the turn signals to a standard flasher relay and FYI for you guys planning on running LED lights on the corners, the LEDs don't draw enough current to make the flasher relay even work. Ordered some flasher relays designed for the low draw of LEDs:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM..._1.O4DbN6JQ5QG

[crash]

I wired up the turn signals to a standard flasher relay and FYI for you guys planning on running LED lights on the corners, the LEDs don't draw enough current to make the flasher relay even work. Ordered some flasher relays designed for the low draw of LEDs:

All you need to do is put a resistor across the LED leads to increase the draw when in use. The LED specific flashers are the official way to do it, but the resistors are the cheap and easy way to do it.

[SteveE]

Beeman,

here is a link to the load resistors that I used, for the led turn signal lights that were supplied by FFR.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...g-fix/190/831/

Steve

[KGTM]

Now you need to install some on your GTM.

very cool project.

Mostafa

[beeman]

Thanks Mike and Steve.

Dave,

What are your thoughts on adjusting brake bias? You and I have a similar setup to our mid engine kits and I am not sure if I will need to add a proportioning valve to either the front or the rear brakes or both to dial it in. Curious what you are thinking.

Thanks,

Joel

Joel, are you running ABS? I'm running the OEM C5 ABS/EBCM so I'm not so concerned about front or rear lock-up, but there still may be some imbalance under track conditions. I looked through some of the C5 forums and usually guys are changing calipers to get more braking from the rear. Some of the C5 Track guys have ripped out the ABS and went with a Tilton/Wilwood setup. I don't think a variable proportioning valve is a great option in my situation as it would probably screw with the EBCM. I'm wanting the best option for street + track. Track only, I would probably ditch the ABS and booster entirely.

[Jkviper]

No ABS, no track and the stock Gen V Camaro dual Master Cylinder(1” bore) with Gen 5 Camaro SS calipers. The stock Tilton master cylinders are 3/4” front and 7/8” rear so if my math is correct this setup sends 16% more pressure to the rear calipers. So my thinking is to maybe put the proportion valve on the front brakes and that way I could create similar balance.

I have’t put much thought beyond that, but thought I’d ask since we are following similar paths.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

No ABS, no track and the stock Gen V Camaro dual Master Cylinder(1” bore) with Gen 5 Camaro SS calipers. The stock Tilton master cylinders are 3/4” front and 7/8” rear so if my math is correct this setup sends 16% more pressure to the rear calipers. So my thinking is to maybe put the proportion valve on the front brakes and that way I could create similar balance.

I have’t put much thought beyond that, but thought I’d ask since we are following similar paths.

With the larger MC on the rear brakes, that should make less pressure than the fronts......more fluid flow, less pressure. You would have to go to smaller MC size to increase pressure.....

[Jkviper]

With the larger MC on the rear brakes, that should make less pressure than the fronts......more fluid flow, less pressure. You would have to go to smaller MC size to increase pressure.....

Thanks so much Shane for adding your input. i’m Glad I have it backward, now it makes more sense with what I would need to do to get good brake balance. Dave, didn’t mean to hijack your thread and appreciate your feedback as well.

[kabacj]

Thanks Mike and Steve.


Joel, are you running ABS? I'm running the OEM C5 ABS/EBCM so I'm not so concerned about front or rear lock-up, but there still may be some imbalance under track conditions. I looked through some of the C5 forums and usually guys are changing calipers to get more braking from the rear. Some of the C5 Track guys have ripped out the ABS and went with a Tilton/Wilwood setup. I don't think a variable proportioning valve is a great option in my situation as it would probably screw with the EBCM. I'm wanting the best option for street + track. Track only, I would probably ditch the ABS and booster entirely.

If you are considering tuning the GTM for the track
The proportioning setup from willwood is required.

I has stop tech custom build the calipers to match the weight bias and traction of the GTM. Even so the ability to adjust the bias really changes the turn in.

On the street it doesn’t matter at all. The GTM has so much extra braking capacity it’s silly.

On the track some form of bias adjustment is a must have.

The C5 although using the same components doesn’t drive anything like a GTM on the track. It’s apples and pineapples.

[beeman]

I'm pretty proud of my redneck 8 channel wireless steering wheel button system!



Lots of tedious soldering...

[beeman]

Continuing to mock up the console... I wouldn't dare build a C5 based kit without a manly DIC!

[kabacj]

I'm pretty proud of my redneck 8 channel wireless steering wheel button system!



Lots of tedious soldering...

Nice job man. Are you milling or printing those components?

[beeman]

Nice job man. Are you milling or printing those components?

3D printing. Prototypes in PLA, final components will be carbon fiber reinforced nylon. How's your track car? Any updates?

[kabacj]

3D printing. Prototypes in PLA, final components will be carbon fiber reinforced nylon. How's your track car? Any updates?

Very cool. Yeah I’ve been busy updating my capabilities in the shop for the next phase of development. I need some robots to help me get the job done. Updates are coming soon.

[Shoeless]

The redneck setup looks pretty sharp to me!!! Nice work

[beeman]

I'm naming this mod "The GTM can be a Grand Tourer".

I was privileged to have the guy who built the exhaust for this out to my shop a few days ago.



He's going to make sure the exhaust routing works for the modification. On my end, it begins by narrowing the gearbox subframe so that the luggage compartments are accessible.





Can any of you mathematicians tell me how much shop space I lost to the 15' trampoline?

[Shoeless]

Apparently not enough space to hamper your build LOL. Maybe one day I’ll have a shop big enough to fit my build(s) and and trampoline

[beeman]

Time for the diffuser. Well, I've been studying this book



The Gen1 diffuser measures almost 30 degrees which certainly does not work. Unfortunately it's a single unit so the angle can only be changed by cutting it.



Edit : that's better. The underside (that you don't want the airflow to detach from) is very rough. I'll sand it down and clear coat it to make an air-friendly surface. If you install per manual, do not consider the diffuser as more than a cosmetic piece. Which is fine, of course, for street cars that don't exceed speed limits by too much.