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Thread: Ducky2009 MK4 Build #9035

  1. #81

    Heater

    Was sick last week. Finally got back to work on the car. Heater is installed. Made a bracket to hold a 4-way valve and ran the FFR control cable through the firewall. Now I can circulate the water to the heater core, or shut off the heater core and still have the required recirculated water to the engine. Still need to made and add the restrictor into the hose. Made a bracket and installed the fuel tank vent (Edwardb's design). Also added a support bracket to the air filter. I felt like the filter was a little shaky. After installing the wiper motor I discovered the casting was cracked. Courtnie is taking care of me on this one. I made the glove box door today. Need to install the hinges and latch. Next step, pad the dash and add the leather.... Then the gauges. Still thinking thru the diode (RT turn signals) attachments. Thinking about making a plexiglass "insulation" box. To be continued...

    Heater 4-Way Valve Bracket.jpg Heater Hoses Installed.jpg Heater Control.jpg Fuel Vent Bracket.jpg Air Filter Bracket -2.jpg Air Filter Brkt Installed.jpg Wiper Motor Cracked.jpg Fuel Tank Vent.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-09-2017 at 09:18 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  2. #82

    Engine/Trans height - Leveling the drive train

    I know several people talked about leveling the drive train. With the engine oil sump in the rear, I didn't think it needed to be completely level. I originally added a 1/4" shim to the trans mount to prevent the drive shaft from rubbing the frame. While installing the headers I realized the oil pan (at the rear of the engine) was below the frame rails. I have now added a 3/4" trans shim, which brought the oil pan up above the frame rails. Time to revisit the pinion angle. The first pic is at a little too much of an angle to have a good view of how much the oil pan is down below the frame.

    Oil Pan Height BEFORE adding .750 Trans Shim.jpg Oil Pan Height after adding .750 Trans Shim.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-09-2017 at 09:24 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  3. #83
    GoDadGo, it is rally tight. Only advantage is the spark plugs are on top, when they need changed. Some people talked about removing the steering shaft to install the engine. I discovered that if you tilt the PS down more than the DS, it will slip in, no problems.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  4. #84

    Mystery Brackets

    Anyone know where these brackets go? Not finding them in the manual.

    Mystery Brackets.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  5. #85


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Those brackets are used with a donor fan shroud.

    Jeff

  6. #86
    Thanks Jeff. When you get down to the last few parts and don't know where they go, you start to wonder what else you might have missed.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  7. #87

    Dash with Leather

    Well, it's been two weeks with little progress. Been out of town but now getting back to work. I covered the dash with leather. Glove box lid is made but not covered yet. Still need to wire the gauges and RT turn signals. Next step, mask off and spray Al's Liner Heat and Noise Reducer, then Dynamat.

    Dash - Leather Covered.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-19-2017 at 12:02 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  8. #88

    Seat Adjusters

    I purchased the Kirkey seats but also wanted the DS seat adjustment. With no floor support near the trans tunnel, I had to make special supports. Ended up attaching two rails from side to side and bolted the seat adjusters to the rails. The seat adjusters are mounted at the outside of the seat and approx 8.5" in (just past the seat center line). That leaves 6.5" cantilevered. The rails support my weight and also keep the aluminum seat from distorting. I used button head screws and a washer to keep the height as low as possible and have a smooth surface. I also added an extra hole behind the seat to rail bolt hole, to reach thru and tighten the rail to chassis bolt. I added 1/4" shims, between rails and floor pan (not shown). I also mounted the adjuster on the outside. It's originally intended to be near the tunnel, but thought it would look funny near the middle of the seat. The PS has spacers added (1" square tubing) to bring the height up to the DS height. PS - The rear bolts go all the way thru the floor pan. The front are hex head and can be reached with a wrench, top and bottom.

    DS - Seat Rails.jpg Seat Bolt - Access Hole.jpg Seat - to Chassis bolts.jpg PS Seat Rails.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-18-2017 at 11:47 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  9. #89


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Ducky,
    Just a heads up...the Kirkeys are a tough & tight fit in the roadster. I suggest that you don't get too committed with making the installation permanent until you can work out the final placement with the body on.

    Jeff

  10. #90
    Wiring now complete. The front parking lights would not work; discovered the wires was inserted incorrectly from the factory in the quick connect (parking lights and fan wires were reversed in the harness at the quick connect plug). Took an hour to figure that one out and fix. Now need to remove or mask everything and spray Al's Liner Heat and Noise Reducer, then Dynamat. Only if it would stop raining in Atlanta so I can roll it outside to spray. Getting closer to the first start.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-26-2017 at 11:33 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  11. #91

    First Start - Well... Second

    Started to engine yesterday for the first time. Checked the fluids and decided it was too last to do any more. This is the second start.

    https://youtu.be/io0sYlr05Ig

    Completed spraying the AL's heat and noise reducer coating. Ready to add the Dynamat. Still need to install the seat heaters. For those of you with Kirkey seat, did you install the seat heaters between the aluminum seat and behind the foam backing, or did you peel the foam loose from the seat cover and install in between?
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  12. #92
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Looks and sounds good! Congrats on getting it running and driving. Can't help you with specifics on the Kirkey seats. But for the seat heaters, the pads have to be between the seat cover and the foam, e.g. right against the underside of the covering. You wouldn't feel them or do anything effective if behind the foam backing.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
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  13. #93
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Started to engine yesterday for the first time. Checked the fluids and decided it was too last to do any more. This is the second start.

    https://youtu.be/io0sYlr05Ig

    Completed spraying the AL's heat and noise reducer coating. Ready to add the Dynamat. Still need to install the seat heaters. For those of you with Kirkey seat, did you install the seat heaters between the aluminum seat and behind the foam backing, or did you peel the foam loose from the seat cover and install in between?
    On Kirkeys I cut/peeled the foam away. Put the heater pad in there are reglued the foam. Works great. Real pain to do though.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  14. #94

    Alignment

    Need some help. I know I've seen alignment issues posted, but can't remember when/where. Someone posted an alignment tool to do it yourself.

    ALSO: On the Coyote engine, when I turned off the engine, the electric cooling fan also shut off (master switch still on). On my daily driver, when the fan is running and I shut it down, the fan keeps running as needed. Anyone else see this issue? FYI... I wired the master switch same as Edwardb, power to the engine control unit at all times.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  15. #95
    Thanks Paul and Wareaglescott. I thought so (seat heaters) but thought I'd ask before removing the foam padding.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  16. #96

    Alignment

    Need some help. I know I've seen alignment issues posted, but can't remember when/where. Someone posted an alignment tool to do it yourself.

    ALSO: On the Coyote engine, when I turned off the engine, the electric cooling fan also shut off (master switch still on). On my daily driver, when the fan is running and I shut it down, the fan keeps running as needed. Anyone else see this issue? FYI... I wired the master switch same as Edwardb, power to the engine control unit at all times.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  17. #97
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Need some help. I know I've seen alignment issues posted, but can't remember when/where. Someone posted an alignment tool to do it yourself.

    ALSO: On the Coyote engine, when I turned off the engine, the electric cooling fan also shut off (master switch still on). On my daily driver, when the fan is running and I shut it down, the fan keeps running as needed. Anyone else see this issue? FYI... I wired the master switch same as Edwardb, power to the engine control unit at all times.
    The Coyote PCM shuts down the cooling fan when the key is turned off. Totally normal and I personally prefer that over it staying running. My experience so far with the Coyote, now about 500 miles, is that Ford is very conservative with the cooling fan. It turns on early and stays on most of the time. I talked to Ford tech support and they said this is OK and normal. They have it that way on purpose. I think more so on the Gen 2 crate. Others I've talked to have noticed the same thing. Point being the engine temp is very controlled and so far nowhere near overheating. Being all aluminum is also cools off pretty quickly when shut down. No issues whatsoever IMO that that fan shuts off with the ignition.

    There are several choices for DIY alignment tools. I use the Specialty Products Company 91000 FasTrax Camber/Caster Gauge and am happy with it. If you have the newer FF wheels with the rounded edges near the rim, you will also need their 91030 FasTrax No Lip Adapters.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  18. #98
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Was sick last week. Finally got back to work on the car. Heater is installed. Made a bracket to hold a 4-way valve and ran the FFR control cable through the firewall. Now I can circulate the water to the heater core, or shut off the heater core and still have the required recirculated water to the engine. Still need to made and add the restrictor into the hose. Made a bracket and installed the fuel tank vent (Edwardb's design). Also added a support bracket to the air filter. I felt like the filter was a little shaky. After installing the wiper motor I discovered the casting was cracked. Courtnie is taking care of me on this one. I made the glove box door today. Need to install the hinges and latch. Next step, pad the dash and add the leather.... Then the gauges. Still thinking thru the diode (RT turn signals) attachments. Thinking about making a plexiglass "insulation" box. To be continued...

    Heater 4-Way Valve Bracket.jpg Heater Hoses Installed.jpg Heater Control.jpg Fuel Vent Bracket.jpg Air Filter Bracket -2.jpg Air Filter Brkt Installed.jpg Wiper Motor Cracked.jpg Fuel Tank Vent.jpg
    I've seen several people use tank vents like pictured here, by the upper rear wheel area...just a question...should there be any concern about water being aspirated into the cell while wet weather driving? Just curious?
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
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    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  19. #99
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob View Post
    I've seen several people use tank vents like pictured here, by the upper rear wheel area...just a question...should there be any concern about water being aspirated into the cell while wet weather driving? Just curious?
    No, don't think that's an issue. That area is pretty tightly surrounded by the body and the rear splash guard. (Try reaching up in there to work and you'll see what I mean.) Not saying any dampness wouldn't get up there, but it's protected from direct spray. The opening is pointed up plus whatever pressure the vent itself has should be positive. Not pulling in moisture. I've used a setup like this twice, and been caught in the rain more than I want to talk about. I've never detected anything bad from it.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  20. #100

    Go-Cart Mode

    Now in Go-Kart mode.

    https://youtu.be/NgPnNOvVDOg

    Still need to install the Dynamat and carpet, seat heaters and trunk carpet. Bodywork to begin in a week or so.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-12-2017 at 12:23 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  21. #101
    Go cart looks great.
    Are your neighbors on board with this project?
    My supporters had great fun going for go cart rides. After 90 miles of never leaving my neighborhood I think I started to tick a few off though. haha Now I just leave the neighborhood as quietly as possible.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  22. #102
    Scott, So far no problems. Several people say they want a ride. Hoping to be street legal quickly. I'm going to set the body next week and start fitting the doors, hood, and trunk. I plan to be ready to paint, do the state safety inspection at that time and apply for the title before painting. Hoping to have paint and title complete at the same time.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  23. #103

    Leather dash --- Did you treat your leather?

    How many people who have a real leather dash treat the leather? Leather will absorb water (not that "I'll" ever get caught in the rain. haha) and I'm debating the need to treat the leather.

    Dash - Leather.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-04-2017 at 12:00 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  24. #104
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    How many people who have a real leather dash treat the leather? Leather will absorb water (not that "I'll" ever get caught in the rain. haha) and I'm debating the need to treat the leather.
    I have leather everywhere on my new build (dash, seats, door cards, center console) and I've been treating it with Meguiar's Gold Class Leather Cleaner and Conditioner. I've been caught in the rain already. "10% chance of afternoon storms" turned into a downpour for the last few miles of my drive home a couple weeks ago. Dried everything off when I got home and the leather didn't appear any different than the vinyl I've had on previous builds. To be honest, I'm more concerned about sunlight and UV damage than an occasional rainstorm. The Meguiar's product is supposed to help with that as well.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  25. #105

    Alignment - Caster Adjustment

    I purchased the Fastrax caster/camber gauge and adjusted the alignment. The manual says caster should be 3 degrees for manual steering but 7 degrees for power steering. The problem is, while keeping camber at -0.5 degrees, I can only get to 5 degrees caster. The rear adjustment link is bottomed out (shortened as much as possible). Anyone else have this issue?



    Caster Adjustment.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  26. #106


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Yes, a number of times. You need to shorten the adjustment sleeve by approximately 1/4". You may find that you have to cut a bit of length from the male stubs as well if they bottom out in the internal threads.

    Jeff

  27. #107
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Yes, a number of times. You need to shorten the adjustment sleeve by approximately 1/4". You may find that you have to cut a bit of length from the male stubs as well if they bottom out in the internal threads.

    Jeff
    Thanks Jeff
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  28. #108

    Windshield Slots - FFR cutouts

    As I started the body prep, I noticed the windshield slots appear out of position. The DS slot is on the body epoxy joint seam. The PS slot is 1.5" inward of the epoxy joint seam. Does the windshield mount that far off center or are the slots incorrectly located? Anyone else have this issue?

    EDITED UPDATE...... If I hold a level up to the side of the car, the DS measures .75" less that the PS. The epoxy seams are not equal distance for the outside of the car.

    Windshield Slot - PS.jpg Windshield Slot - DS.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-07-2017 at 07:12 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  29. #109
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    As I started the body prep, I noticed the windshield slots appear out of position. The DS slot is on the body epoxy joint seam. The PS slot is 1.5" inward of the epoxy joint seam. Does the windshield mount that far off center or are the slots incorrectly located? Anyone else have this issue?

    EDITED UPDATE...... If I hold a level up to the side of the car, the DS measures .75" less that the PS. The epoxy seams are not equal distance for the outside of the car.
    The lines you see on the body aren't seams. The body is laid up in one piece. Those are more properly called parting lines, showing where the various mold pieces separate once the layup is complete. There's also no epoxy in the body. Is all vinylester resins.

    Several points regarding the windshield cutouts. (1) They're purposely undersized, basically giving you a starting point. The final cutout will be somewhat larger and in my experience slightly angled. You want them big enough so that the windshield arms don't touch the body, but small enough that the provided trim plates cover the opening. There's quite a bit of wiggle room from the intial cutouts. (2) Don't assume the body or parting lines are symmetrical. Likely they aren't. I've never actually measured them, but the cutouts very well could be slightly different from side-to-side relative to the outside of the body or the parting lines. (3) Don't try to figure anything out until you have the body on the chassis and lined up exactly where it should be. Then use the underlying windshield chassis mounts to determine where the cutouts need to be while fitting the arms. They will need adjustment front to back as well as side-to-side. Worst case scenario, if they're in the wrong place it's relatively easy to fill and repair before paint and nobody will ever know.
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-08-2017 at 05:34 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  30. #110


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    ...Anyone else have this issue?...
    There is no issue. The body parting lines are not symmetrical side to side. Here's how the windshield slots locate in relation after the windshield has been properly fitted:





    Cheers,
    Jeff

  31. #111
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    There is no issue. The body parting lines are not symmetrical side to side. Here's how the windshield slots locate in relation after the windshield has been properly fitted:

    Cheers,
    Jeff
    Thanks Jeff. Mine looks a lot like yours.

    I'm prepping the body now to start the bodywork. Not sure how everyone else does it (in what order), but I plan to fill the body seams and semi-finish first, them install to chassis and work the doors, hood and truck joints. Not sure how many people prep and paint their own car.

    Bodywork PS - Ready to add filler.jpg Bodywork Front - Ready to add filler.jpg Bodywork DS - Ready to add filler.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-09-2017 at 04:50 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  32. #112

    Do you have - FFR stock brakes and stock Ford Cobra brake calipers

    Survey: How many people have stock cobra brake calipers and FFR manual (Wiwood) master cylinders? I've only go-carted around the neighborhood but not liking the feeling. I'm going to bleed them again to make sure there's no air trapped inside the lines.

    I did set-up the footbox to be able to install a hydro-boost (drilled holes to mount, enlarged thru hole, set-up pedal to attach to and rivets a cover on).

    Weekly update. Bodywork (filler) is close to being finished. Need to install on chassis and fit doors, hood and truck. Hoping to start on that tomorrow.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-11-2017 at 03:12 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  33. #113
    The Coyote CMCV valves are not working. Have a fault on the OBD reader. Called Ford Racing and they think it's electrical because of the fault reading. Today I did a vacuum test.... discovered ---no vacuum! I learned from Ford that the front vacuum connection (to the cold air feed) is a vacuum return line. Never heard of such a thing, not sure why it's needed. The vacuum to operate comes off the back of the manifold. The electrical connectors work in conjunction with the vacuum, if I had any vacuum. Time to call Ford back tomorrow.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-11-2017 at 03:13 PM. Reason: Coyote CMCV not working
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  34. #114
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    The Coyote CMCV valves are not working. Have a fault on the OBD reader. Called Ford Racing and they think it's electrical because of the fault reading. Today I did a vacuum test.... discovered ---no vacuum! I learned from Ford that the front vacuum connection (to the cold air feed) is a vacuum return line. Never heard of such a thing, not sure why it's needed. The vacuum to operate comes off the back of the manifold. The electrical connectors work in conjunction with the vacuum, if I had any vacuum. Time to call Ford back tomorrow.
    No reason to call Ford. Edwardb and me (mostly Paul) sorted this issue out and Paul documented the fix in a separate thread and his build thread. Can't remember the exact Pcode but I'm assuming you are looking at a P2004 & 2005?

    Here ya go:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ht=coyote+cmcv

    You also may very well get a P0116 code. That is covered by Pauls thread also. Ford sent me a flash tuner to update the PCM and I sent it to Paul to fix that issue. You can either send yours in to them or get them to send a flash tuner to you if you get this fault.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 06-11-2017 at 03:33 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  35. #115
    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    No reason to call Ford. Edwardb and me (mostly Paul) sorted this issue out and Paul documented the fix in a separate thread and his build thread. Can't remember the exact Pcode but I'm assuming you are looking at a P2004 & 2005?

    Here ya go:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ht=coyote+cmcv

    You also may very well get a P0116 code. That is covered by Pauls thread also. Ford sent me a flash tuner to update the PCM and I sent it to Paul to fix that issue. You can either send yours in to them or get them to send a flash tuner to you if you get this fault.
    Thanks Scott AND Paul. I have a 2017 Coyote and my set-up is listed at the end of this post.... Caps on the ports, no hose supplied with the engine. This is a BIG help, saving me lots of time researching this issue.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  36. #116
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Thanks Scott AND Paul. I have a 2017 Coyote and my set-up is listed at the end of this post.... Caps on the ports, no hose supplied with the engine. This is a BIG help, saving me lots of time researching this issue.
    Yea, that thread turned a little south at the end but still has the information I think you need. Ignore the part about the DS hose to the intake. Obviously your newer engine is one that has that deleted. Eliminates having to make the connection in the Spectre intake. But the vacuum portion of the intake back to the CMCV circuit should eliminate the codes you're getting. I'm surprised that after this long Ford neither supplies the parts, mentions it in the instructions, or even seems to recognize the issue when you call the tech line. Every single person buying this crate engine has to deal with this or they'll get the codes and the CMCV circuit won't be working.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  37. #117

    CMCV Vacuum Set-up

    CMCV issue is now resolved, thanks to Scott and Paul's previous diligence. I originally purchased a 1/2" to 1/4" 90 degree barb fitting for the fuel regulator vacuum supply. I cut the line at the rear of the engine and added a Y fitting, taking the new line to the CMCV solenoids (adding a F splitter to feed both). I'm thinking 1/4" line is sufficient. Fuel regulator needs vacuum, with no pressure loss. The CMCV system has a vacuum reservoir tank, still able to supply the CMCV vacuum in low vacuum running conditions (pedal to the floor). This setup allows the vacuum line to run under the manifold on the DS. Since I'm running a heater, I need the space above the intake to run the 5/8" Dia heater hoses.

    FYI... When I purchased the 1/2" to 1/4" elbow they were .50 cents and $10 shipping, so I bought QTY-10 (US Plastics #62051). If you need one, message me and I'll send it to you.

    Vacuum fitting.jpg CMCV - Vacuum Supply.jpg CMCV - Vacuum Hookup.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-12-2017 at 09:01 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  38. #118

    Bodywork Progress

    Bodywork coming along. Plan to install body to chassis tomorrow. Still have a few spots needing a little more work. Figured I'd do that after first primer coat. Hoping to attach doors, hood, and trunk in the next few days. Will have to trim to fit next week. Having a house full of company over the weekend.

    Bodywork - Prep - Rear.jpg Bodywork - Prep - Front.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  39. #119

    Brackets for ?????

    Need help. I found two more brackets and not sure what they're for.

    Bracket for.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle.

  40. #120
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Lake Orion, Michigan
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    3,580
    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Need help. I found two more brackets and not sure what they're for.

    Bracket for.jpg
    Hood pin brackets. You are using hood pins, right?

    Not sure why FF keeps including those.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

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