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Thread: Ducky2009 MK4 Build #9035

  1. #81

    Heater

    Was sick last week. Finally got back to work on the car. Heater is installed. Made a bracket to hold a 4-way valve and ran the FFR control cable through the firewall. Now I can circulate the water to the heater core, or shut off the heater core and still have the required recirculated water to the engine. Still need to made and add the restrictor into the hose. Made a bracket and installed the fuel tank vent (Edwardb's design). Also added a support bracket to the air filter. I felt like the filter was a little shaky. After installing the wiper motor I discovered the casting was cracked. Courtnie is taking care of me on this one. I made the glove box door today. Need to install the hinges and latch. Next step, pad the dash and add the leather.... Then the gauges. Still thinking thru the diode (RT turn signals) attachments. Thinking about making a plexiglass "insulation" box. To be continued...

    Heater 4-Way Valve Bracket.jpg Heater Hoses Installed.jpg Heater Control.jpg Fuel Vent Bracket.jpg Air Filter Bracket -2.jpg Air Filter Brkt Installed.jpg Wiper Motor Cracked.jpg Fuel Tank Vent.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-09-2017 at 09:18 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  2. #82

    Engine/Trans height - Leveling the drive train

    I know several people talked about leveling the drive train. With the engine oil sump in the rear, I didn't think it needed to be completely level. I originally added a 1/4" shim to the trans mount to prevent the drive shaft from rubbing the frame. While installing the headers I realized the oil pan (at the rear of the engine) was below the frame rails. I have now added a 3/4" trans shim, which brought the oil pan up above the frame rails. Time to revisit the pinion angle. The first pic is at a little too much of an angle to have a good view of how much the oil pan is down below the frame.

    Oil Pan Height BEFORE adding .750 Trans Shim.jpg Oil Pan Height after adding .750 Trans Shim.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-09-2017 at 09:24 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  3. #83
    GoDadGo, it is rally tight. Only advantage is the spark plugs are on top, when they need changed. Some people talked about removing the steering shaft to install the engine. I discovered that if you tilt the PS down more than the DS, it will slip in, no problems.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  4. #84

    Mystery Brackets

    Anyone know where these brackets go? Not finding them in the manual.

    Mystery Brackets.jpg
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  5. #85


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    Bloomington, Indiana
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    Those brackets are used with a donor fan shroud.

    Jeff

  6. #86
    Thanks Jeff. When you get down to the last few parts and don't know where they go, you start to wonder what else you might have missed.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  7. #87

    Dash with Leather

    Well, it's been two weeks with little progress. Been out of town but now getting back to work. I covered the dash with leather. Glove box lid is made but not covered yet. Still need to wire the gauges and RT turn signals. Next step, mask off and spray Al's Liner Heat and Noise Reducer, then Dynamat.

    Dash - Leather Covered.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-19-2017 at 12:02 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  8. #88

    Seat Adjusters

    I purchased the Kirkey seats but also wanted the DS seat adjustment. With no floor support near the trans tunnel, I had to make special supports. Ended up attaching two rails from side to side and bolted the seat adjusters to the rails. The seat adjusters are mounted at the outside of the seat and approx 8.5" in (just past the seat center line). That leaves 6.5" cantilevered. The rails support my weight and also keep the aluminum seat from distorting. I used button head screws and a washer to keep the height as low as possible and have a smooth surface. I also added an extra hole behind the seat to rail bolt hole, to reach thru and tighten the rail to chassis bolt. I added 1/4" shims, between rails and floor pan (not shown). I also mounted the adjuster on the outside. It's originally intended to be near the tunnel, but thought it would look funny near the middle of the seat. The PS has spacers added (1" square tubing) to bring the height up to the DS height. PS - The rear bolts go all the way thru the floor pan. The front are hex head and can be reached with a wrench, top and bottom.

    DS - Seat Rails.jpg Seat Bolt - Access Hole.jpg Seat - to Chassis bolts.jpg PS Seat Rails.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 05-18-2017 at 11:47 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

  9. #89


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    2,689
    Ducky,
    Just a heads up...the Kirkeys are a tough & tight fit in the roadster. I suggest that you don't get too committed with making the installation permanent until you can work out the final placement with the body on.

    Jeff

  10. #90
    Wiring now complete. The front parking lights would not work; discovered the wires was inserted incorrectly from the factory in the quick connect (parking lights and fan wires were reversed in the harness at the quick connect plug). Took an hour to figure that one out and fix. Now need to remove or mask everything and spray Al's Liner Heat and Noise Reducer, then Dynamat. Only if it would stop raining in Atlanta so I can roll it outside to spray. Getting closer to the first start.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; Yesterday at 11:33 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17
    MK IV complete kit Coyote Engine & TKO-600

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