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Moderator
Roadracer's #997 build
Jerry at Stewart Transport delivered my '33 stage 1 today!
truck.jpg
crane.jpg
Looks great, apart from one small problem, can you spot it? Something isn't as it should be
day1chassis.jpeg
Look at the very front of the chassis.. a little modification and flaking of powder coat. I'll let FFR & Stewart know about this on Monday. My wife and I did the inventory today, there's very little missing. A few bolts and a very short backorder list. In fact I have some extra parts in the cooling box that I haven't identified yet!
Of course I have a lot fewer boxes and parts having just stage 1. No body, interior etc.
boxes.jpeg
So, what are my plans? A pretty standard build to start with, get it on the road relatively quickly using donor mustang GT rear, donor 350 SBC and TKO600. I'm not planning much non-standard to start - this will be my DD as soon as I can get it done. Over time, I'll replace with blueprint 383 and upgrade whatever I find that needs doing. I added the 3 link option, so I'll be doing that from the beginning. Wanted IRS but couldn't swing that much extra $$.
Here's some renderings I've done of the final result, inspired by my old GTD40 with diamond white paint with light blue stripes. The stripes are hard to do well in the app I have, but you'll get the idea.
front-q.jpgrear-q.jpg
Tomorrow the fun starts in earnest. Thank all for being here and so helpful.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Now it's up on stands my first job is to fix the bent LCA bracket. Still pondering how best to do it.. any ideas?
bentframe2.jpegbentframe1.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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RR, the renderings look great! Those tires look massive. I was pondering boxing the bottom of that frame horn on my car at one point. Now I may go back and do it. I recommend using a rigid square tube clamped or tack welded to bend it back without creating another bend and getting a wavy result.
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Moderator
Thanks erlihemi. I did exactly that but still got a wave. It doesn't want to bend that close to the weld. I've trial-installed the front suspension this morning to see how it all works.. went together very well so far.
mockupfront.jpegwave.jpeg
Last edited by RoadRacer; 04-16-2017 at 01:55 PM.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Emptied some more boxes and assembled more parts while Stewart decides what to do with bent chassis. May have to ship back to FFR, but we'll see. Went to local junk yard and got '02 Mustang GT rear (3.27, 8.8, limited slip, 5 lug, solid rotor, 62.52" wide) and stripped it of all the unnecessary crap. Will wire brush and paint along with all the rest of the bare metal parts, but I think I'll trial install the rear and see how the 3-link all goes together first.
Once it's in (and I've confirmed the 3-link still suffers from this problem) I'll consider the fix documented over at http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...sing-link.html (hat tip to myjones for pointing me at this). Or perhaps I'll try and find a competent welder to weld the banana bracket on..
Before and after stripping the 'extras':
rear.jpeg barerear.jpeg
All the leftover parts
removed.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Seasoned Citizen
RR, that particular bend in the front bracket is pretty simple to straighten if you have some basic equipment. If you have access to an oxy/acetylene torch and a rose bud tip; PM me and I'll provide you with enough details that you can straighten it yourself even if you've never done this type of work before. It really is that easy. Of course you'll have to touch-up the powder coating and I can recommend a product for that as well.
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Moderator
BTW, love the new rear LCA.. compare the version shown in the latest manual with what I got!
rearlca.jpeg lca-manual.jpg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Originally Posted by
NAZ
PM me and I'll provide you with enough details that you can straighten it yourself even if you've never done this type of work before.
Thanks NAZ, will do, once we all decide what course of action to take.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Today was wire-brush-on-a-drill day. Many years of dirt and gunk to remove from the rear. Scrubbed, Soaked in Purple Power, scrubbed some more, then Eastwood Pre, 2K Primer and 2K Gloss Black. Turned out nicely though, used one can of primer and one can gloss on the rear and the two front UCA.
ooo-shiny.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Senior Member
Looking good. We will have to get together some time. Never seen a coupe up close. Maybe I can bring my roadster by before I start bodywork.
FFR MK4 Complete Kit #8952
Build Thread
Bodywork Thread
3 Link Rear Suspension, Gordon Levy 347 SBF with T5
First start Feb 20, 2017, First Go Kart March 5, 2017, Registered & Title April 25, 2017
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Moderator
Yeah would be great to see you. Free any evening and weekend.. just text me whenever you fancy coming by. Just remember I'm only stage 1, no body to see yet
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Sanded, prepped, primered and glossed most of the rest of the parts I've got. The Eastwood 2K ran out with only the engine and gearbox mounts remaining - which is fine since I don't have an engine or gearbox
I wish FFR would offer an option to powder coat all these pieces too! There's a lot of bare metal delivered.
At least assembly can start now..
paint-misc.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Originally Posted by
RoadRacer
Sanded, prepped, primered and glossed most of the rest of the parts I've got. The Eastwood 2K ran out with only the engine and gearbox mounts remaining - which is fine since I don't have an engine or gearbox
I wish FFR would offer an option to powder coat all these pieces too! There's a lot of bare metal delivered.
At least assembly can start now..
paint-misc.jpeg
I like your chain hanger and wish I would have thought of it.
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Moderator
A day of 'suggesting' that all the front suspension parts please kindly fit into their assigned locations. I hesitate to say i've done 'final' fitment of all this, but I surely hope so. It will be a day of cusswords if I have to remove those shocks, knowing what it takes to get those .32" spacers in.
Although, the whole thing only took a couple hours. Finding and fitting all the grease nipples and caps and greasing it all up seemed to take just as long! I probably could have stayed an extra few minutes and added spindles and brakes (already assembled) but I'll start the day tomorrow with something easy..
paintedfront.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Good start.. I find the inspiration and commitment comes in spurts. I'll stare at something thinking I cannot do it for a while then I will just go ahead and do it. I guess that is part of the fun eh?
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
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Moderator
Yeah and it's funny how we're all paying extra for the privilege according to another thread here
Man, I love building cars though. ALMOST as much as driving them
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Added spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers and steering rack today. Finally removed the chassis panels that came installed. Moved the rear into position with wife's help, waiting on the brackets which were POL and are already on the way from FFR.
Everything went smoothly today, but the hub torque was interesting! My old snapon 3/8 drive torque wrench - 25 years old - only goes up to 100ft/lb. Never had to torque anything higher! But 235ft/lb is a lot higher, so I went and borrowed bigger torque wrench from autozone and had to buy a 1 3/8 wrench to do it up. I weigh 215, but damn it took some effort to get that click-click! I was doing chin ups on the wrench
Note sure about my placement of the metal steering rack bracket - the manual shows it the other way around, but that interferes with the cable tie, and since that didn't easily move I wondered if there was a groove there on the rack. So for now I just switched the bracket which will works. We'll see. It's at the end of the wide part, but it still tight.
manual-steering.jpegsteering-bracket.jpeg
steering-brakes-top.jpegsteering-brakes.jpeg
UPDATE: Later I went back and flipped this steering rack bracket back to as per manual, and moved the boot over a smidge.
Last edited by RoadRacer; 05-07-2017 at 03:31 PM.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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I didnt see a mention in the thread of how FFR addressed the bent chassis piece.
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Moderator
Originally Posted by
Mick Scarborough
I didnt see a mention in the thread of how FFR addressed the bent chassis piece.
Ah, sorry. FFR were amazing and offered a replacement chassis if I wanted one, even though it happened during shipping.
In the end Stewart and I agreed on some cash compensation. I'm happy with that.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Finished torquing up the front suspension, here showing the extra spacers I had to add to top balljoint on both sides
balljoint-spacer.jpeg
I had a similar problem at the rear, on drivers side, lower shock mount. Only on that side, there was way too much gap remaining after the spacers were in, so I added two washers there too. The other side is different design and worked with just spacers
need-spacer.jpeg
At this point I have to say that a homemade spreader "tool" is super useful - I've used it many times already on front/rear suspension. I have a 3ft 1/2" threaded bar, nuts and thick 2" washers that I've used to open up most of the attachment points. Some are WAY too small, the worst so far being the chassis mounting of rear LCA - over an 1/8" too small. I open it up maybe a 1/8" bigger than needed and it springs back 1/16", then I snug up with bolts.
spreader.jpeg
Fitting the rear on my own was interesting - when it falls off the jack (and it will) I made sure to have a backup underneath it. It's a big heavy mofo, but it's in there now, and tomorrow it'll be on to the 3 link.
rear-day1.jpeg
Last edited by RoadRacer; 05-07-2017 at 07:38 AM.
Reason: oops.. lower shock mount, not LCA
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
RoadRacer
At this point I have to say that a homemade spreader "tool" is super useful - I've used it many times already on front/rear suspension. I have a 3ft 1/2" threaded bar, nuts and thick 2" washers that I've used to open up most of the attachment points. Some are WAY too small, the worst so far being the chassis mounting of rear LCA - over an 1/8" too small. I open it up maybe a 1/8" bigger than needed and it springs back 1/16", then I snug up with bolts.
Love the idea for the "homemade spreader bar". I had the same issue with most of the attachment points. Must really pull in during the welding process.
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @
https://starmobileone.com/
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It will be a roller soon! Nice spreader bar.
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Moderator
Originally Posted by
erlihemi
It will be a roller soon! Nice spreader bar.
haha, yes! I have no wheels yet, so I'm going to make some MDF circles the right circumference as the planned tires and bolt them on.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Installed the 3 link & panhard today. Lots of farting around with the bolt-on 3-link bracket - the front and back bolt holes were nowhere close to aligning, so I used the drill press to redrill in a straight line. You can see the original misalignment at top left in pic below. I split the difference and drilled all four holes out straighter.
misaligned.jpeg
That, and the customary 'spreading' and I got it all together. The panhard support was awfully close to the bolt head at front of the LCA though. I had to persuade it to get in.
thatstight.jpeg
Good time to call it quits for the day..
rear3.jpegrear2.jpegrear1.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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I am going to order stage 2 today since sale started yesterday. Been thinking about going up to pick it up myself. If there is any other Texas stage 2 needing pick up, I could
get a bigger trailer ?
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Senior Member
So what sale would that be? I have not gotten anything about it or see anything on their web site.
Tim
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Moderator
Originally Posted by
bakerboerne
I am going to order stage 2 today since sale started yesterday. Been thinking about going up to pick it up myself. If there is any other Texas stage 2 needing pick up, I could
get a bigger trailer ?
It's just SO FAR! I thought about it, but it would be 4-6 days of driving - so a week off work - plus rental, plus gas and hotels.. not cheap! Stewart was super easy
But to answer your question, I'm not ready or able for stage 2 yet. Thanks though.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Originally Posted by
TDSapp
So what sale would that be? I have not gotten anything about it or see anything on their web site.
Tim
Signup for their emails Tim, they announced a 50/50 for 5 sale (or $1000 off options I believe)
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
I have to post because I'm going stir crazy.. had my high-maintenance relatives here for 3 weeks and haven't been able to even look in the garage. They leave Tuesday. Man, I'm jonesing for some car time! Feel like I'm falling behind the rest of the 99x-100x club
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Senior Member
Thanks for the sale tip.
I was going to place my order on June 5th when I toured the factory. I will be placing it tonight, to ensure I get the 40% off options deal.
http://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new...e-summer-sale/
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Moderator
Got back in the garage today and made some good progress.
First, drilled the banana bracket brace hole, and bolted it up.. kinda. Turns out the supplied bolt is a little short so I'll have to get a longer one. I have ordered VPM's banana top brace too so I'll install that when it comes next week.
bananaboltshort.jpeg
Then I dropped two center marks at front and rear of cockpit square.. I'll use my laser to move that onto front/rear subframes later. I already used the center mark when measuring the firewall.
front-center.jpegrear-center.jpeg
Next was pedal box.. got that all assembled (using the clutch cable setup) and installed to chassis. Yes I had to definitely grind the cast line off the pedal to get the clutch cable thingy to fit!
clutchpedal.jpegpedalbox1.jpegpedalbox2.jpeg
Lastly I trial fitted the firewall and lower panels a few times to get them all lined up and centered. Marked the holes and waiting on #11 bits to arrive. I'd only ordered #30 and 1/8 clecos.. forgot the #11 and 3/16..
Oh and somewhere in there made a fun embarrassing post about the steering flange Duh
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...980#post281980
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
When installing the pedals I had to retap two out of the eight holes. Felt like it was cross-threaded going in so I didn't want to take the chance. A quick tap and they went in smoothly and tightened nicely. Used red locktite.
tappedal.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Drilled and cleco'd the firewall - done with 1/8 until the 3/16 come in the mail.
firewallback.jpegfirewallfront.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
Had a few hours yesterday to fit the brake reservoir and plumb it in. Since there are no instructions about *where* to put it (exactly) I browsed the threads and hopefully put it in a place that won't cause issues. Far enough away from clutch cable, low enough(?) to not hit body - but without a body to look at that's hard to be sure of!
I didn't want/need it inside the car so had to run off to Harbor Freight for a grommet kit.. was a little surprised a grommet for the firewall wasn't included though. Or perhaps it is, but I must have missed it on the inventory.
reservoir.jpeg reservoirline.jpeg
Got the lovely http://vpmcobras.com/ banana brace kit installed. So happy with this, it fit like a dream and now finally I don't have to worry about this banana bracket.
bananabrace.jpeg
Lastly, attached the steering flange, and now the next task is the brake lines that I've been naively looking forward to. I'm going to start by trying to use what was supplied but all this talk of eastwood flare tools and NiCopp brake line makes it appear that almost no-one uses the supplied parts.
I'm taking that as a challenge!
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
P.S. seems the rule is to tap everything! This seems obvious given the powder or paint coating, but I'm glad I'd bought a tap/die set to run through everything. The bolts in the pedal box acted like they were bottoming out in the hole.. quick tap and they went in beautifully.
tapeverything.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Originally Posted by
RoadRacer
Had a few hours yesterday to fit the brake reservoir and plumb it in. Since there are no instructions about *where* to put it (exactly) I browsed the threads and hopefully put it in a place that won't cause issues. Far enough away from clutch cable, low enough(?) to not hit body - but without a body to look at that's hard to be sure of!
Your brake fluid reservoir will not function properly. The bottom of the reservoir should be as high as the hose to the MCs. Also, is the hose intended for use with brake fluid? Others have found out that fuel hose or air hose will disintegrate when exposed to brake fluid.
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Moderator
The hose came with the brake master cylinders and is positioned like most people's reservoir that I found.. and the manual. any higher it hits the body (apparently).. but ok I'll ask FFR for more info.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Moderator
My thoughts were that the TOP of the reservoir and fluid must be highest point. Which they are. Wrong?
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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It all depends on the top of the fluid level, the reservoir is secondary to that. As long as your fluid level is higher than your hoses and masters it will gravity feed as it tries to equalize levels. (source: am engineer, but its been a while so feel free to disagree) Yours should be fine RoadRacer, but you will have to be careful since a little bit of fluid drop will put it your fluid level below the hoses and create a potential high point that wont gravity feed your masters.
As I type this I am thinking I need to go double check my hoses to make sure I am not getting any high spots and that I have taken my own advice! I mounted it in a similar location, just a bit higher. I would post a picture, but it keeps giving me an "upload failed" error.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
RoadRacer
The hose came with the brake master cylinders and is positioned like most people's reservoir that I found.. and the manual. any higher it hits the body (apparently).. but ok I'll ask FFR for more info.
I went Tony at FFR with the same question and he said that mine should be fine...IMG_3420.jpgIMG_3621.jpg
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @
https://starmobileone.com/