Accessory wiring

[Straversi]

With a lot of help from the forum, I have a wired and running Coyote with functioning gauges. My fan is controlled by the coyote PCM. I am not installing a radio, wipers or heater.

Time to wire up accessories without burning everything to the ground. I'd like to install backup light, seat heaters, foot box blowers, a couple of USB chargers and a cigarette lighter/accessory port.

On the RF wiring harness, I have power to the radio, radio memory, and heater leads. I don't have power on the wiper or the Fan Control blue wire in the front harness. Does that have something to do with repays?

Any guidance on what circuits to run each of these accessories on?
Is 14 gauge wire fine for all of these applications?
Can I extend the courtesy light wires to the trunk and add a couple more LED lights on the same circuit. I like the idea of turning the head light knob and lighting up the foot boxes and the trunk at the same time and not running any trunk switches.

Thanks
-Steve

[edwardb]

I used the FR heater circuit for the heated seats. Also no space heater in my build. The circuit is the right size and even makes logical sense. I used the RF cooling fan circuit for my two auxiliary outlets under the center of the dash. That circuit has plenty of capacity for whatever I might plug in there, which so far has only been my Garmin GPS and the occasional USB charger. If you ground the fan switch wire the circuit will be live all the time. I made it a little more complicated by using a relay to only ground the fan control wire when the ignition key was on. That way the aux outlets are only on if the key is on. I haven't done powered footbox blowers, so don't know how much current they draw. I suspect one of your remaining circuits could be used, but I can't say for sure.

14 gauge wire can handle 15-20 amps for the relatively short wiring distances in your build. There are lots of charts and calculations. Some more conservative than others. I often refer to this one: http://www.offroaders.com/technical/...gauge-to-amps/

Yes you could definitely wire your trunk light to go on with the headlight switch and cockpit courtesy lights. I had my Mk3 wired that way and it was OK. But the last builds I've used a switch on the trunk hinges, and find it's much more useful and worth the extra work. Open the lid and the light's on. I used a magnetic switch on #8674. It was simple to install and works very well.

Can't say why your wiper circuit isn't working. It's an ignition circuit, so should be powered on with the key on. Fuse maybe, although that's an obvious first place to look and suspect you have already.

[Bobby Doug]

I used a secondary fuse block that had a 100 amp capacity. I used a switching relay to handle the power load. The radio lead triggered the relay. The power came straight from the battery. It is powering my heated seats, dual USB outlets, cigarette adapter, and cruise control. I still have 4 circuits remaining for future use. I created a panel to mount the heater controls, heated seat switches, and power adapters. Power block and relay came from Watsons Streetworks.

[Straversi]

I used the FR heater circuit for the heated seats. Also no space heater in my build. The circuit is the right size and even makes logical sense. I used the RF cooling fan circuit for my two auxiliary outlets under the center of the dash. That circuit has plenty of capacity for whatever I might plug in there, which so far has only been my Garmin GPS and the occasional USB charger. If you ground the fan switch wire the circuit will be live all the time. I made it a little more complicated by using a relay to only ground the fan control wire when the ignition key was on. That way the aux outlets are only on if the key is on. I haven't done powered footbox blowers, so don't know how much current they draw. I suspect one of your remaining circuits could be used, but I can't say for sure.

14 gauge wire can handle 15-20 amps for the relatively short wiring distances in your build. There are lots of charts and calculations. Some more conservative than others. I often refer to this one: http://www.offroaders.com/technical/...gauge-to-amps/

Yes you could definitely wire you trunk light to go on with the headlight switch and cockpit courtesy lights. I had my Mk3 wired that way and it was OK. But the last builds I've used a switch on the trunk hinges, and find it's much more useful and worth the extra work. Open the lid and the light's on. I used a magnetic switch on #8674. It was simple to install and works very well.

Can't say why your wiper circuit isn't working. It's an ignition circuit, so should be powered on with the key on. Fuse maybe, although that's an obvious first place to look and suspect you have already.

Thanks. That's a handy reference chart.

And yes, the wiper circuit fuse was blown.

-Steve

[Straversi]

I used a secondary fuse block that had a 100 amp capacity. I used a switching relay to handle the power load. The radio lead triggered the relay. The power came straight from the battery. It is powering my heated seats, dual USB outlets, cigarette adapter, and cruise control. I still have 4 circuits remaining for future use. I created a panel to mount the heater controls, heated seat switches, and power adapters. Power block and relay came from Watsons Streetworks.

Thanks, that looks very nice.

-Steve

[phileas_fogg]

I used the RF 10A Electric Choke circuit to power my Attwood 3000 blower fans. I measured the current draw to make sure I had enough capacity. A single fan draws roughly 4A peak and 2.25A steady-state. With one fan running, turning on the second fan draws roughly 5.6A peak and 4.1A steady-state.


John

[Straversi]

I used the RF 10A Electric Choke circuit to power my Attwood 3000 blower fans. I measured the current draw to make sure I had enough capacity. A single fan draws roughly 4A peak and 2.25A steady-state. With one fan running, turning on the second fan draws roughly 5.6A peak and 4.1A steady-state.


John

Thanks. I think I pruned that off. I'll trace it back and revive it.

-Steve